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Author Topic:   Brass Drain Tubes

Bertramp posted 03-08-2004 09:38 AM ET (US)
I just picked up a 1977 Sport 17 that had been converted to a "faux" Montauk via the addition of a console and an RPS. Decent buy for the bucks. The rear brass drain tube that I am used to seeing is not there. The boat has always been trailered and the plug was always installed from the outside (at least by the person I bought it from, the second owner). With it spending its life on a trailer, even if some water got in, I would think that it was near the back. The foam that I could feel was not really wet
Should this boat have a brass drain tube?
The last brass drain tube that I had replaced (on a 15), the marina said "forget the "O" rings" and used 5200. Is this decent advice?
What about using some PVC tube from Home depot? No need to ever replace corroded brass again.
jimh posted 03-08-2004 09:54 AM ET (US)
A 1977 Boston Whaler 17-foot hull was originally made with brass tube drains in the cockpit sump and the engine splash well.
The 3M5200 is a strong adhesive and sealant, and if the entire length of the brass tube were coated with it, it may be very difficult to remove the brass tube when needed. A small amount at the outboard end of the tube as a sealant is probably fine.
I believe is has been reported that Boston Whaler is using a plastic tube in some applications to replace the brass tube in these drains.
Just for curiosity was the previous owner driving the boat around with a plug in the cockpit sump drain on the outboard side of the drain? It seems hard to imagine someone would operate the boat with the drain plug handle sticking down into the water under the hull. Perhaps you are referring to the engine splash well drain. That would make more sense to see a plug placed on the outboard end of the drain!
Bertramp posted 03-08-2004 10:26 AM ET (US)
I'll pick up a new brass, or maybe opt for the PVC, but ... no I'm not referring to the "twin" drains in the engine well. He showed me where he placed the plug for the main sump and he was doing it from the outside. We both know that it should be on the inside and is removeable when running to drain the hull if you take on water.
thanks for the reply.
Mike Brantley posted 03-08-2004 10:34 AM ET (US)
It's getting time for me to replace the brass drain tubes on the back of my 15 Sport. The sump tube particularly feels corroded to my touch, and I am concerned about water intrusion.
In the meantime, until I can make this repair, I am putting drain plugs inside AND outside the sump drain. I use the type with the screw-in handles, although even the flip handle need not stick down if you insert it so the handle is oriented up.
I use a bilge pump in the sump to evacuate any water that finds its way into the boat while underway. I'm undecided as yet about replacing the corroded tube with brass or plastic. Even with double plugs, water still flows through the drain when I wash my boat (and yours too), so I'm going to make this repair soon.
gnr posted 03-08-2004 10:37 AM ET (US)
Bertramp,
The 1987 17-Guardian that I purchased two years ago was set up as a dive boat and the tank racks in the stern required the plug to be put in from outside. When I checked the brass drain tube prior to buying it seemed to be in reasonably good condition for a boat of its age. A month or so latter as I pulled the plug after a day on the water the last inch of the brass tube came out with the plug. I believe that the previous owner rarely removed the plug instead using the bilge pump to clear the boat. Because the plug was left in place I think that sand and other abrasives worked in between the plug and the tube which led to the corrosion of the tube. As the boat was a custom build BW could not supply me with the correct replacement brass tube and the plastic tube they tried to give me was a two piece tube which would have required me to drill out the transom to accommodate the large joint holding the two sections together. As this was a fourteen inch tube with two bends in it this wasn't an option.
My solution was to get a section of schedule 40 pvc which I heated over a camp stove and bent to fit. I epoxyed it in place and used some 5200 sparingly on the ends to seal it. I left the finished edge slightly less then flush with the transom and will finish with gelcote when I get around to touching up the other blemishes on the boat this summer.
PFSQUAN posted 03-08-2004 02:00 PM ET (US)
I installed "T" plugs at both the inside and outside locations of the long drain tube. While the bilge pump keeps the sump dry, the plugs keep saltwater out of the drain tubes completely.
I often wondered what effect all the saltwater inside the drain tube had on its condition. This spring when I replace the tube after 19 years I'll know.
greyg8r posted 03-08-2004 02:25 PM ET (US)
Bert,
Interesting that you asked this, because I just replaced the drain tube on my 1974 Katama on Saturday.
First, after reading the littany of archives on drain tubes (brass vs. PVC), (5200 vs. 4200 vs. o rings), I went with brass and 5200.
By the way, for those who argue that 4200 is less permanent than 5200 and thus a better choice, I offer this info: I am 44 and the boat is 30. The first drain tube lasted 30 and, if I installed it correctly, it should last another 30 years. I certainly do not plan on replacing this particular drain tube as a 74-year old!
Second, I spoke to ALAFIARAT, a member of this forum, on Sunday. Dave has a Newport that, I believe, like yours is a 1977 model. He says that his brass drain tube that starts in the sump does not penetrate the transom. If he sticks his finger in the hole from the stern, he feels smooth fiberglass, in contrast to mine, when the tube was removed, felt like foam. He spoke to Sue at Twin Cities Marine, who in turn spoke to BW who confirmed that the drain tube did not go all the way through the hull on at least that particular model and year.
You can reach alafiarat very easily through the search mechanism.
PF, I think the merits of having an external drain plug to prevent saltwater corrosion is miniscule and overshadowed by the drawback of not being able to plane out and remove any water inside. If you read LHG's near-tragedy, one of the things that allowed him to escape, was the ability to plane out.
Just my dos centavos worth.
Richard
PFSQUAN posted 03-09-2004 08:24 AM ET (US)
Richard: excellent point. Moving forward, when I replace my drain tube in the spring, corrosion will not be an issue and the aft plug will be removed. Thanks for a worthwhile observation. Peter
tkassner posted 06-18-2007 11:50 AM ET (US)
I have a 1977 15' sport that I rehabbed last season. Towards the end of the season, I noticed that I was taking on a decent amount of water over the bow. After pulling the boat at the end of the season last year, I noticed the plugs were in rough shape and that a decent crack was in the locker.
I replaced the plugs recently with new 1" T-plugs and noticed that the brass tube fitting was sliding out rather easily. I have two questions.
1-Could the loose fitting be allowing water in? If so, what is the recommend way to fix.
2-The crack (yikes) what is the best way to fix the crack and test if there is water in the hull?

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Author	Topic: Brass Drain Tubes
Bertramp	posted 03-08-2004 09:38 AM ET (US) I just picked up a 1977 Sport 17 that had been converted to a "faux" Montauk via the addition of a console and an RPS. Decent buy for the bucks. The rear brass drain tube that I am used to seeing is not there. The boat has always been trailered and the plug was always installed from the outside (at least by the person I bought it from, the second owner). With it spending its life on a trailer, even if some water got in, I would think that it was near the back. The foam that I could feel was not really wet Should this boat have a brass drain tube? The last brass drain tube that I had replaced (on a 15), the marina said "forget the "O" rings" and used 5200. Is this decent advice? What about using some PVC tube from Home depot? No need to ever replace corroded brass again.
jimh	posted 03-08-2004 09:54 AM ET (US) A 1977 Boston Whaler 17-foot hull was originally made with brass tube drains in the cockpit sump and the engine splash well. The 3M5200 is a strong adhesive and sealant, and if the entire length of the brass tube were coated with it, it may be very difficult to remove the brass tube when needed. A small amount at the outboard end of the tube as a sealant is probably fine. I believe is has been reported that Boston Whaler is using a plastic tube in some applications to replace the brass tube in these drains. Just for curiosity was the previous owner driving the boat around with a plug in the cockpit sump drain on the outboard side of the drain? It seems hard to imagine someone would operate the boat with the drain plug handle sticking down into the water under the hull. Perhaps you are referring to the engine splash well drain. That would make more sense to see a plug placed on the outboard end of the drain!
Bertramp	posted 03-08-2004 10:26 AM ET (US) I'll pick up a new brass, or maybe opt for the PVC, but ... no I'm not referring to the "twin" drains in the engine well. He showed me where he placed the plug for the main sump and he was doing it from the outside. We both know that it should be on the inside and is removeable when running to drain the hull if you take on water. thanks for the reply.
Mike Brantley	posted 03-08-2004 10:34 AM ET (US) It's getting time for me to replace the brass drain tubes on the back of my 15 Sport. The sump tube particularly feels corroded to my touch, and I am concerned about water intrusion. In the meantime, until I can make this repair, I am putting drain plugs inside AND outside the sump drain. I use the type with the screw-in handles, although even the flip handle need not stick down if you insert it so the handle is oriented up. I use a bilge pump in the sump to evacuate any water that finds its way into the boat while underway. I'm undecided as yet about replacing the corroded tube with brass or plastic. Even with double plugs, water still flows through the drain when I wash my boat (and yours too), so I'm going to make this repair soon.
gnr	posted 03-08-2004 10:37 AM ET (US) Bertramp, The 1987 17-Guardian that I purchased two years ago was set up as a dive boat and the tank racks in the stern required the plug to be put in from outside. When I checked the brass drain tube prior to buying it seemed to be in reasonably good condition for a boat of its age. A month or so latter as I pulled the plug after a day on the water the last inch of the brass tube came out with the plug. I believe that the previous owner rarely removed the plug instead using the bilge pump to clear the boat. Because the plug was left in place I think that sand and other abrasives worked in between the plug and the tube which led to the corrosion of the tube. As the boat was a custom build BW could not supply me with the correct replacement brass tube and the plastic tube they tried to give me was a two piece tube which would have required me to drill out the transom to accommodate the large joint holding the two sections together. As this was a fourteen inch tube with two bends in it this wasn't an option. My solution was to get a section of schedule 40 pvc which I heated over a camp stove and bent to fit. I epoxyed it in place and used some 5200 sparingly on the ends to seal it. I left the finished edge slightly less then flush with the transom and will finish with gelcote when I get around to touching up the other blemishes on the boat this summer.
PFSQUAN	posted 03-08-2004 02:00 PM ET (US) I installed "T" plugs at both the inside and outside locations of the long drain tube. While the bilge pump keeps the sump dry, the plugs keep saltwater out of the drain tubes completely. I often wondered what effect all the saltwater inside the drain tube had on its condition. This spring when I replace the tube after 19 years I'll know.
greyg8r	posted 03-08-2004 02:25 PM ET (US) Bert, Interesting that you asked this, because I just replaced the drain tube on my 1974 Katama on Saturday. First, after reading the littany of archives on drain tubes (brass vs. PVC), (5200 vs. 4200 vs. o rings), I went with brass and 5200. By the way, for those who argue that 4200 is less permanent than 5200 and thus a better choice, I offer this info: I am 44 and the boat is 30. The first drain tube lasted 30 and, if I installed it correctly, it should last another 30 years. I certainly do not plan on replacing this particular drain tube as a 74-year old! Second, I spoke to ALAFIARAT, a member of this forum, on Sunday. Dave has a Newport that, I believe, like yours is a 1977 model. He says that his brass drain tube that starts in the sump does not penetrate the transom. If he sticks his finger in the hole from the stern, he feels smooth fiberglass, in contrast to mine, when the tube was removed, felt like foam. He spoke to Sue at Twin Cities Marine, who in turn spoke to BW who confirmed that the drain tube did not go all the way through the hull on at least that particular model and year. You can reach alafiarat very easily through the search mechanism. PF, I think the merits of having an external drain plug to prevent saltwater corrosion is miniscule and overshadowed by the drawback of not being able to plane out and remove any water inside. If you read LHG's near-tragedy, one of the things that allowed him to escape, was the ability to plane out. Just my dos centavos worth. Richard
PFSQUAN	posted 03-09-2004 08:24 AM ET (US) Richard: excellent point. Moving forward, when I replace my drain tube in the spring, corrosion will not be an issue and the aft plug will be removed. Thanks for a worthwhile observation. Peter
tkassner	posted 06-18-2007 11:50 AM ET (US) I have a 1977 15' sport that I rehabbed last season. Towards the end of the season, I noticed that I was taking on a decent amount of water over the bow. After pulling the boat at the end of the season last year, I noticed the plugs were in rough shape and that a decent crack was in the locker. I replaced the plugs recently with new 1" T-plugs and noticed that the brass tube fitting was sliding out rather easily. I have two questions. 1-Could the loose fitting be allowing water in? If so, what is the recommend way to fix. 2-The crack (yikes) what is the best way to fix the crack and test if there is water in the hull?