posted 04-03-2004 10:53 PM ET (US)        

Please use this thread for comments or questions related to the article

posted 04-04-2004 10:40 PM ET (US)            

I would actually use Teak. It is more expensive than mahogany but in my experience it is more durable. As far as maintaining your wood, on my old 22 Outrage wharer drive, the aft hatches were gelcoat over wood. Never had to touch them, and they looked great.

others-

Thanks for the kind words about the article.

posted 04-08-2004 04:36 PM ET (US)            

Great article! I'm a little late to the post, but have run into some wood issues myself. I'm refinishing all the wood on an '84 13' sport - all of which is in terrible shape. I'm awlgripping most of the wood with white paint to avoid having to do this too frequently, but am keeping the two seating benches as varnished mahogany.

Both are in terrible shape and have some small splits, dings, mildew and water damage. I sanded down about as far as I care to go, but the wood is still showing these blemishes and color variations when wet.

posted 05-01-2004 11:12 AM ET (US)            

Let me see if I can be of some help here.

Starting with 60 grit is just fine. However, you should clean the wood first, otherewise you will just be grinding in all the dirt and detritus into the wood. Then make sure you progress through the appropriate grits, making sure that you remove the scratches left behind by the previous grit before moving on.

If you want to use a Sikkens product, that is up to you. They are durable, and are easy to apply. That said, it is traditional to use a high gloss product not a satin. If you must use a satin, make sure that it is only for the last coat or 2. The materials that they put in a finish to take the shine out of it will actually dull the grain's appearance and make the finish look cloudy. Additionally, I have to say that I am a bit biased against Sikkens products. In my opinion, they look like orange plastic instead of marine wood.

Finally, on to a hand rubbed finish. That term is generally applied to an oild finish or a wipe on finish. For example when I build a project and use tung oil and rub it in with a cloth instead of brushing it, that would be a hand rubbed finish. Hand rubbing a finish does not build as quickly as a brushed one (except maybe for a french polish). Now there is one caveat in all of this. You can "rub out" your varnish (this will not work with Sikkens). To do this, simply varnish yur wood as I have described in the reference article, but add a few extra coats to the process. Now comes the fun part. You are basically going to buff or "rubb it out" to get an even higher luster. You start by wet sanding the surface with 600 grit and adding a drop or two of dish soap to the water to act as a lubricant. After cleaning all the residue off the surface, you will now "buff" the surface with a powder called rottenstone. You basically sprinkle on some of this powder add some water and rub it out with a soft cloth. Then rinse an completely clean thee surface. When you are done with this, you will have a perfectly level and mirror like surface. Definately the best looking wood in the marina.

However, if you just use a really good spar varnish and don't skimp on coats you will look nearly as good, without all of the work.

posted 05-20-2004 04:27 PM ET (US)            

Re: your comments about only using satin for the last coat or two, if at all-

I'm a commercial general contractor - been in the business for about 40 years now (can't believe it!) - and over the years I developed a friendship with a local painting contractor now passed away who taught me how to finish with varnish "his" way, in what he called a furniture finish.

posted 05-20-2004 05:42 PM ET (US)            

It is exactly the reason you describe that lead some to go with a coat or two of satin for the finacl 'dressing.'

I am a bit of a purist hence the desire for only gloss spar varnish. Sometimes that is my downfall. It is why I don't believe in epoxy for anything but a glue (and then only of resorcinol won't do the trick). But I will readily admit that if some one uses a coat of satin after 8-10 coats of varnish, you will be hard pressed to tell very much of a difference. Where you need to be carefull is with the periodic maintenence coat. If you use the satin without first sanding into the gloss (removing the old satin) you will begin to cloud things up.

Mowgli-

PLEASE< PLEASE< PLEASE do not use the cetol. When I see it I just cringe (I know this may upset some good guys here, but this is my opinion). That plastic orange look has no place on a boat. I you are doing teak, I would not use a stain. Some use a stain for mahogany to help even out the color, but usually teak does not need that. Remember that it is golden brown when freshly machined, and the spar varnish will add to that. If you feel that you must stain, make sure that it is oil based.

posted 05-20-2004 06:46 PM ET (US)         

UV deterioration is also the reason I first stain my teak. I use an oil based teak color stain, and have found that the extra protection provided by the pigment is significant.
Initially, the wood will have a rich dark color, but after about two or three years of exposure, the wood will still be the color of originally un-stained varnished teak.

posted 05-27-2004 02:00 PM ET (US)            

Does anyone have any opinions as to the use of Teak Cleaner and Teak Brightener, and, if so, at what stage in the sanding process should they be used - before sanding? - after the 80 grit stage, or after the 120 grit stage?

Secondly, the manufacturer of the Marine Varnish suggests use of their own primer as the first coat - is the three coat varnish / thinner mix recommended in the Reference Article superior, and why?
(If you can believe it, I could not get Interlux, Z-Spar or Flagship here in one of Canada's two main boating centres - not even at West Marine. I plan to use Behrs Marine varnish which claims 65 UV protection)

posted 05-28-2004 10:48 AM ET (US)            

Since you are doing a complete restoration of the wood, a teack cleaner is really not needed. Just sand down to wood that looks new, sand some more and you are there.

I would still use the thinned varnish as the penetrating/primer coats. Remeber that teak is an oily wood, and you should clean it with acetone immediately before the first coat.

As afar as telling the differencee between teak and mahogany, the teak is much more dense and can have a tighter grain. It can have more of a golden color where mahogany can have more red hues to it.

posted 06-17-2004 09:34 AM ET (US)            

First, is the original wood on an '87 22 revenge teak or mahogony and where would I go to get a small stip (2"x 24"x1/4" approx.) cut/replaced?

Second, I am in the process of refinishing most of my wood. The underside of my large pieces (Floor livewell cover, Stern top fishbox cover and battery hold covers) are very dirty, because of oil (not teak oil) and grease that have soiled them. I have scrubed with bristle brush, soap and water and it is better but definitely not "Clean".

Should I spend significant time cleaning/sanding the undersides and should I use a chemical cleaner on it (I have not used teak cleaner on the topsides)?

Should I oil the bottom the same as the top?

If I varnish, should I varnish the bottom of these pieces along with the topsides and edges?

posted 06-17-2004 01:43 PM ET (US)         

Owl Hardwood Lumber
St Charles Road (almost to the Lombard town line)
Villa Park IL