posted 05-08-2004 12:34 PM ET (US)        

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Hi all, it's that time of year, so I imagine this is a popular subject right about now. I'm in the process of polishing my very dull '87 Montauk and am going through the same process as many - 3M rubbing compound followed by 3M "Finesse it" and finally Caranuba wax.

My question is three fold.

First Should I be using anything to clean off the rubbing compound before proceeding with the next step. I was cleaning it off with acetone, but don't know if that's helping or hurting me since the rubbing compound is also a wax. Additionally should I be cleaning before applying each new product?

Second, I have done a few test areas with and without the "Finesse It" and to be honest I don't really see the difference. I have also tried Meguiars Color Restorer with pretty much the same results. Are these products more suitible for colored hulls (mine's all Desert Tan)? Is this a step I should do or is it unnecessary if I don't see a difference?

Finally, I have a Porter Cable high speed polisher (random orbital) that I've been using. What speeds should I be applying and removing this stuff with? In my tests I've been applying with fairly low speed but high pressure, then removing/cleaning/buffing with high speed and minimal pressure - just letting the wheel float for the most part - seems to work pretty good.

This hull is very dull - not really oxidized, but has no shine at all. It's coming back with minimal effort so I'm happy with that. I don't want to do extra steps if they're not needed and don't want to skip steps either for that matter.

Thanks all.
Chris

posted 05-08-2004 01:52 PM ET (US)         

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There is a huge amount of material to be searched out on this subject. Whaler.com also has information on the subject.

I would not use a product as aggressive as the 3M rubbing compound. Rather, the Mequiars #44 is much less abrasive and will do the job. With gelcoat, always use the least amount of abrasive possible to avoid removing too much.

The 3M Finessee-it smooths out the "relatively" rough surface (not visible to eye or feel) left by the cleaning compound. It HAS to be used according to instructions on the bottle to work properly. Boston Whaler says to use it for a micro-finished, non-porous high gloss.

Follow up with Collinite #925 carnuba boat wax (I think this is the best you can buy) or Mequiars #26 Pure Yellow Wax, which BW recommends, but has to be bought at Pep Boys and is not available in boat stores. These are the two best pure wax products on the market. Do not confuse the Collinite #925 with Collinite's Fleetwax, which is a good product but not for boats. Also, the liquid version has minor abrasives in it.

posted 05-08-2004 02:03 PM ET (US)            

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Using Acetone for a cleaning solvent on a finished gel coat surface is probably not a good idea. It is okay when making repairs to use it to clean and prepare a surface for the next layer, but once you have the finished layer in place, don't use Acetone as a cleaner.

If you don't believe me, consult with the factory, viz.:

http://www.whaler.com/Rec/default.asp?content=maintenancetopics&topic=fiberglassstains

posted 05-08-2004 02:05 PM ET (US)            

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Larry,

A bit confused here as Collinite recommended to me the 825 Paste Fleetwax for my whaler. 925 is a liquid carnuba wax which is also listed on their site. Both are listed under Marine Line. What's your issue with the Fleetwax?

posted 05-08-2004 08:01 PM ET (US)            

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Also a bit of clarification - I said I was using 3M rubbing compound - what I meant was I was using the 3M™ Marine Fiberglass Cleaner and Wax that has a light rubbing compound in it. This is the one that says "for lightly oxidized surfaces" or something of the sort.

Thanks for the replies thus far.
Chris

posted 05-08-2004 08:29 PM ET (US)            

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Lego,
Start with the Mequiars #44 and see if that works if it does then start there. If the boat is only lightly oxidized that should work fine.

For me Meguiars didn't work so I ended up starting with 3M heavy duty rubbing cpd, followed by the Mequiars #44 then the finesse-it II, then wax. My hull is almost back to desert tan, ony slightly whiter than it should be. When I started I had a white boat.

I can't tell you if using the finese-it II makes a difference, I can tell you that 3M clearly states on the bottle of rubbing cpd to use it before you apply wax.

btw my hull looks great. Wish the inside looked as good as the outside.

As for the polisher speeds, look on the applicator pad package. Most of the pads will give you an RPM range, I stuck to that.

posted 05-14-2004 05:03 PM ET (US)            

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I wrote this article a while back - not specifically for Whalers but I am sure parts will apply. As it gets older fiberglass dries out - wax can only penetrate so deep, then you need to break out the secret weapon. Here is the article...

After a lot of research I found out you can save old faded fiberglass hulls. I've learned that even the most faded rough feeling ugly sun burned hull can nearly always be saved - as long as the colors are in the glass and not painted. The same restoration stuff (almost) that is sold by dealers for a hundred bucks can be formulated at home for under $20 (including scrub pads etc).
The Secret "They" Don't want you to know: A paint additive Penetrol (about $8.00 a pint) is designed to soak into surfaces and "reliquify" old dried out subsurfaces to make new paint soak in and adhere better. It's also nearly the same "rust magic" stuff we used to pay a fortune for a while back! It soaks right in starved fiberglass - taking years off right before your eyes.
First you have to scrub the hull - really scrub not just wash. You want all the old wax, mildew, stains, paint rubs, etc, etc, off. Those cheap green pot scrubbing pads (Scotchbrite)in the kitchenware department will do the trick. I also used some of that automotive purple stuff cleaner (really strong) that runs about $5.00 a gallon in auto stores (Walmart?) to get the mildew and years of grunge off the hull. Then scrub again to be sure (you don't want to seal in stains!) with plain ole Borax moistened with white vinegar paying close attention to rub rails, marks, and stains. White surfaces can then be brightened and cleaned with plain old bleach and water (3 or 4 tablespoons to a quart of water, wear gloves, don't wear good clothes). Old numbers and stickers you don't want can be removed with a heat gun on low or a hair dryer on high, remove remaining adhesive with WD-40!
Once she is clean, real clean, eating off clean, then apply the Penetrol to a cloth and wipe it on. Let the the first coat soak in like you would Armour-All on tires (don't wipe it off. She might take two or three passes to finally fully saturate dry fiberglass if she is an oldie, be patient you are fixing years of abuse.
Once that is done you have to scrub again. You don't want the Penetrol on the outside to remain as a dirt magnet, you are only interested in keeping the Penetrol that has actually soaked into the fiberglass! Once the excess Penetrol has been removed, it's time to put on a couple of coats of high quality marine wax - a buffer will really save your back and shoulders for fishing.
Now, if you were doing a high dollar bassboat or other expensive boat with exposed metal flake on the top surfaces you would sand it smooth with super fine grit (400-1000)sand paper then rub it out with waxless rubbing compound and apply the Penetrol like above. Once she is clean again finish up topside with an Emron clear coat (sprayed on) and after it is fully cured, wax.
I cringe at the fine boats I have not bought for peanuts because I did not know this. Even with Emron you are looking at less than $250 to bring back a worthy boat. So there you have it, the secret is out!