ContinuousWave
Whaler
Moderated Discussion Areas
ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
1972 21' Outrage 3 restoration
search | FAQ |
profile | register | author help
|
|
ContinuousWave Whaler Moderated Discussion Areas
ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
1972 21' Outrage 3 restoration
|
| Author | Topic: 1972 21' Outrage 3 restoration |
| frontier |
posted 05-21-2004 02:57 PM ET (US)  
We just bought a basket-case 1972 21' Outrage 3. Any hints or ideas as we begin the restoration process? |
| overbrook |
posted 05-21-2004 08:30 PM ET (US)
Frontier- what do you mean by bascket case and what is an Outrage 3??? Maybe you should post some pics and get a little more specific with the questions? I got a 73 outrage-are ya lookin to keep it all original?You can check mine out in progress at this link. Tom |
| frontier |
posted 05-21-2004 09:41 PM ET (US)
Tom, You have a nice boat! Great pictures. This one is the ribbed style. The 1972 brochure says the Outrage 3 is a "basic commercial or hard-nosed sport fishing model". Stock with no rails. Needs quite a bit of cosmetic work. Probably have to paint it. |
| overbrook |
posted 05-21-2004 11:09 PM ET (US)
hmmm .. never heard that. Are you looking to put it completely back to original or just revive it to a nice looking usable boat? There are plenty of people here can give you all the advise you need as you go the the steps of bringing her back to life! Tom |
| frontier |
posted 05-23-2004 12:21 PM ET (US)
Anybody know if a rubrail is still available for the 1972 21' ribbed Outrage? Is it different than 73 and newer? |
| Tom W Clark |
posted 05-23-2004 01:25 PM ET (US)
Gary, I was looking at Outrage hull # 003 last summer. It appeared to have the Barbour rub rail, same as the rest of the 21s. I'd contact Sue Lodel to be sure of the correct size of Barbour rub rail. |
| David Jenkins |
posted 05-24-2004 07:10 AM ET (US)
If the boat needs a lot of work, you will not need to worry about the rubrail for a long time. Instead, you might consider taking everything off of the boat, sanding it with 60-grit paper, and brushing on a coat of the Interlux epoxy barrier coat 404/414 (designed to go above and below the waterline). Then use a fairing compound to smooth out all of the cracks, then more sanding, then another coat of the 404/414, then you will be ready to paint the boat. Be sure to take before and after pictures! |
| jimh |
posted 05-24-2004 07:29 AM ET (US)
In the 1972 catalogue the 21-foot Outrage is available in three levels of trim, I, II, and III (Roman numerals, not Arabic). The Outrage III was just a bare hull and console, intended for commercial use or customization. |
| Drisney |
posted 05-24-2004 01:49 PM ET (US)
Gary, A good friend of mine bought a basket case early seventies hull. It had a couple large holes in the hull and was in very bad shape. After a great deal of work and painting the whole boat; it was a beauty! We fished it a lot for several years before he sold it a few months ago. Good luck! Dave |
| jcreasey |
posted 05-27-2004 02:02 AM ET (US)
Here are the pics of the outrage III that Frontier and I are working on. www.boatimage.com/html/22.html |
| David Jenkins |
posted 05-27-2004 08:43 AM ET (US)
To some people that may look like a heap of trash but to me it looks like a golden opportunity to restore a classic! Here is what I would do: Take everything off of the boat. Throw the center console in the trash and sell the engine on eBay. Get some JoMax house cleaning soap and Outdoor Clorox at Home Depot and mix them in a pump sprayer with hot water. Spray down the boat, let it sit for 10 minutes, and hose it off. Determine if the hull has to be painted or if you can restore the original gelcoat. Weigh the boat and trailer then launch the boat and weigh the trailer by itself. Determine if the foam core is still relatively dry. Press or tap on every square inch of the boat and mark any soft spots you may find. Post new pictures and reassess options regarding painting, new console, etc. Keep us posted on developments! |
| aquaman |
posted 05-27-2004 02:04 PM ET (US)
Frontier, Have you seen the early 70's Outrage parked in a storage lot in Olympia? It's down near the Port close to Tom's Outboard Shop. It is a ribbed version, appears to have an original consol, in fairly decent shape. John |
| frontier |
posted 05-27-2004 04:35 PM ET (US)
John, I did see that boat at the Olympia Swantown Boatswap a few weeks ago. It looked pretty good. Ours is an Outrage III, that one is a I or II with rails and fancier interior. Thanks for the note! |
| Capt_Tidy |
posted 06-03-2004 01:10 AM ET (US)
For those of you who have seen lae's 25 outrage and know what he has... it looked a little worst than jcreasey's before I hit it with a steam cleaner... mind you Larry has done a lot of work from all reports. The ugly duckling is often a gem as long as its a whaler. |
| LHG |
posted 06-03-2004 06:10 PM ET (US)
JimH - That catalog you are referring to is the 1971 catalog, where they introduced the new Outrage, and was used for both '71 and '72. It's wrongly shown on the Whaler CD as only 1972, and what is shown on the CD as 1971 is actually a mid-year 1970 release to carry over until the big 1971 catalog, showing the Outrage, came out a little late. The rib sided Outrage 21 was only made in 71 & 72 model years (actually produced from Aug 1970-July 1972), and they made a total of 722 hulls during that period. They were turning them out at the rate of about 25-30 hulls per month during that period. I wonder how many are still around |
| Tom W Clark |
posted 06-03-2004 10:06 PM ET (US)
Ian, I am more than a bit surprised to hear you say that. I have spent time in Larry Eaton's Outrage 25 and it is a very clean boat. When I first saw it last summer here in Seattle, I was expecting to see a rough boat based on what I had read you say about it when you bought it and also on Larry's own overly humble assessment of the boat. She is by no means rough; it could be a real gem with a little more elbow grease and Larry has already contributed quite a bit of that. Gary, If what Ian says is true, you have stumbled across a diamond in the rough! LAE, You are mixed up. The year attributions are correct for the 1971 and 1972 catalogs (and all the others) on the Boston Whaler Catalog Collection. Read them. |
| jcreasey |
posted 06-08-2004 10:59 AM ET (US)
Here are the updated pictures of the 72' outrage III project that Frontier and I are working on. http://www.boatimage.com/html/5-31-04.html -Jeff |
| JayR |
posted 06-10-2004 08:09 PM ET (US)
Wow!!!What a job you all have ahead of you. I am envious! It will all be worth it. That is one fine hull. |
| Jinfun |
posted 06-19-2004 12:30 AM ET (US)
Wow again. I've got hull # 185. Just finished sanding down the teak around the console earlier this evening, but I am very curious in how you are going about the repair to the bow deck. I had closer look at my own deck today and it looks like about a third is also showing signs of seepage (stains from below). I would like to attempt a repair this summer but am a little stumped on the best way to go about this. I've already purchased a good amount of West system epoxy. Should I cut out from below, fit and epoxy in balsa again ? Or should I use marine plywwod instead ? Is there a trick to propping up the core material from below ? Because of the tight quarters, it sure seems like it will be a messy repair with regardelss. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. |
| frontier |
posted 06-20-2004 11:22 AM ET (US)
Under the bow area, we cut out the fiberglass encased end-grain balsa with a carbide saw on a Dremel tool. It is messy, as you can see in the pictures. Use a good respirator & eye protection! We then used 1/2" 9-ply marine grade plywood custom cut from a cardboard pattern. Because we were going to paint the whole boat anyway, and had so may other holes to fill, we drilled holes for bolts to use as clamps. Used West System #403 mixed with 105 resin & 205 fast hardener as adhesive. That stuff really sticks! After it cured we used fiberglass cloth around the perimeter. To fill the holes and low areas we used # 410 microlight fairing filler. Transom holes were filled with #403. We are going to have it professionally painted. |
| Jinfun |
posted 06-23-2004 04:07 PM ET (US)
Thanks for the info. I have a Dremel and will try to cut the delaminated area with it next week. The rest of the boat is in good condition and I don't really want to to drill any holes, so I might try propping up the plywood from underneath. |
| John W |
posted 07-01-2004 08:41 PM ET (US)
Jinfun, I did this same repair to my 1971 Outrage, using matt, glass, & West system epoxy, but I propped up the plywood from underneath while the epoxy cured. It worked great & the deck is rock solid. I put 2 layers of matt & heavy glass cloth on what became the underside of the plywood reinforcement with the plywood out of the boat, and let it cure completely. I then flipped the plywood over (so the hardenned underside was facing down), put on several layers of matt & cloth in thickenned epoxy, and before it cured, we eased this under the deck & then braced it into place with boards pre-cut to be a tight fit. I also braced the original metal supports in to help hold up the new deck. Finally, we placed cinder blocks on top of the deck to mash the deck into the plywood & epoxy. Hope this helps. Good luck. John |
| home Aside |
posted 07-01-2004 10:00 PM ET (US)
Sounds like a good application for Coosa Composites that Jimh posted a few days ago. Could be used instead of marine plywood, supposedly lighter and stronger... Pat |
| |
Powered by: Ultimate Bulletin Board, Freeware Version 2000
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.