posted 06-02-2004 01:45 PM ET (US)        

I have seen the threads on the replacement poles and the wiring challenges. Think I understand that part.

What are the tried and proven techniques for getting the remaining pole out of the brackets. Mine is really stuck in both brackets. (bought the 86 Montauk in March)

Photo is on my page..Look at Stern Light album..

http://f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/philtyson2002

I ask since, my brother's 13 has the exact same problem and we were unsucessful to date.

Thanks again.

posted 06-02-2004 01:51 PM ET (US)            

If it appears that considerable hammering and/or prying and/or twisting is still going to be required, I'd remove the mounts from the fiberglas to keep it from suffering damage.

--
Moe

posted 06-02-2004 02:21 PM ET (US)            

I agree with Moe on the PB Blaster, but if the stuck pole piece is corroded, Corrosion Block may work better as it will dissolve the corrosion.

posted 06-02-2004 03:23 PM ET (US)            

I seriously doubt any of the solvents described above will help you. I tried everything. That white stuff you described is aluminum oxide, and it has some SERIOUS binding power. Some people (like me) also experience this power when they try to open up their engine control box at the helm.

I did some research into what would react with aluminum oxide to break it free, and it turns out that the active ingredient in Miracle Grow would do the trick. I can't think of the name of it (magnesium something?), but it really doesn't matter because it isn't nearly concentrated enough to do the trick.

I ended up taking a bare hack saw blade and cutting the piece of the mast that is inside those brackets. Of course, you do this from the inside. Be careful to stop once you go through the mast so you don't continue to cut the bracket. Make 2 cuts opposite each other, and the pieces should then come out much easier. Wedge a screw driver in there to separate part of it, and then use a pair of needle nose pliers to curl the rest of it out. Then sand down the inside of those brackets.

posted 06-02-2004 09:19 PM ET (US)            

I think I will try Chuck's suggestion first then go to Shrimp's.

Thanks to Dave and Moe for reminding me to take the brackets OFF THE BOAT.

Thanks to Backlash too!

Jim - you crack me up !!! too funny.

Since it is forecasted to rain this week (and all last week) I will wait to take off the brackets. Duck tape for now.

posted 06-02-2004 11:10 PM ET (US)            

If you have aluminum oxide, you do NOT have a Whaler OEM stern light. Your 1986 Montauk should have a stern light mast made of stainless steel tubing, If it were an older model the mast would be chrome plated brass.

Either way, the corrosion problem you report is very common. I strongly suggest you try using Aero Kroil penetrating oil as a first attempt at freeing things up. It may not be magical but it is superior to all other penetrating oils in my experience.

Regarding the breaking of the mast in the first place, I must confess that I have been there and I have done that...multiple times with my Striper 15 and the garage it got backed into for a period of time. Yup, the light got shorter and shorter.

All you need is a tubing cutter to produce a clean cut. If you do have the stainless steel mast type will need a very high quality tubing cutter to cut it. If it is aluminum or brass, any old hardware store tubing cutter will work fine.

Regarding the adherence to current International and Inland boating rules and the height of the stern light, the current requirement is one meter above the port and starboard running lights. Montauk stern lights were not built to this height (54") until the mid 1980s.

Does anybody know if (strictly speaking) one is obliged to retrofit an older boat to meet current requirements in terms of navigation lights? Or is it merely a manufacturer's requirement?

posted 06-02-2004 11:22 PM ET (US)            

Ford Pinto

posted 06-02-2004 11:24 PM ET (US)            

I believe your assumption is correct regarding the retrofit requirement for older boats - there is none assuming the boat is "original". However, I would not be surprised if technically you would be obligated to "come up to current standards" if doing a replacment/modification of a significant nature. This "grandfather clause" is pretty typical in most automotive and even building code requirements as I'm sure you're aware.

As a matter of fact, I have an original 1948 Willy's CJ2A that I took to get a State inspection here in VA (required every year). Well, the old dude doing the inspection proceeded to argue with me that I was required to have seatbelts in the Jeep. Give me a break - it's a friggin antique and seatbelts weren't even manditory until (I believe) 1968. I argued with him for a while and finally he gave in but just for spite failed my inspection since I didn't have my doors/top on - making up some excuse about them being required if they were part of the original. What a prick. I was sick of arguing, so I had to drive home, put on the doors/top and return to the garage to pick up my sticker. Needless to say I don't go back to that shop anymore.

I still have the Willys. It probably has 30K original miles or so on it and is in real good mechanical shape. Needs a lot of cosmetic work and it's not real happy there's a Whaler in it's place in the garage now. :O

posted 06-03-2004 08:55 AM ET (US)            

quote:

---

Rather than clamping the brackets in a vise, I'd find a piece
of pipe with an ID just greater than the mast. Put the mast
in the pipe and tap on the mast.

---

I've used this method countless times to remove things of this nature. One of the best "pipes" I've found to use is a socket set - especially if you have deep well sockets. They come in just about every size and are basically indestructible with nice eased edges. I've also used these to push on bearings and stuff. Works like a champ.

posted 06-03-2004 11:23 AM ET (US)            

BTW, Lego, I wonder how many folks here "get" your handle?
(I do, I thought about being an architect at one time).

posted 06-03-2004 12:15 PM ET (US)            

Most probably all think I'm some French pacifist or something :).

(The "Gobo" part comes from Fraggle Rock - an old Jim Henson muppet show - for some reason I picked up that nickname in high school. I think it had something to do with the hair)

Here's a picture:
http://www.covingtonhendrix.com/bio.html

You have to "mouse over" my name to see it.

DOH...just realized I haven't updated the kid count...we're up to 3 now. Better hope my wife doesn't see that :)

posted 06-03-2004 08:21 PM ET (US)            

Due to its light weight I always thought it was aluminum. It appears to not be magnetic. There is no sign of any rust. It is finished with a dull satin natural finish, typical of burnished aluminum.

posted 06-03-2004 09:43 PM ET (US)            

By your description I can tell you you have an anodized aluminum pole which was typical of the 18 foot and up Whalers in the mid 1980s. By the late 1980s even these larger (1.25" diameter) masts were being made of stainless steel.

posted 06-03-2004 10:06 PM ET (US)            

I noticed Phil's lamp (1986 Montauk) is a sort of a "Jelly Jar" looking fixture. Here's a good picture of it:

http://f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/philtyson2002/detail?.dir=/2c53&.dnm=4b3f.jpg

Mine (1987 Montauk) look nothing like that - but more of a cheap (oxidized) plastic:

http://www.covingtonhendrix.com/Montauk_II/

(the picture third from the end shows it best)

Which one is original? Phil's looks much nicer and more heavy-duty. Mine is pretty crummy and I'd like to replace it - especially if I don't have the original part.

posted 06-04-2004 12:27 AM ET (US)            

What you have is not original. It is a cheapo universal replacement. Phil's is original.

That lens is what is called a fresnel lens. These replacement lens are readily available at most places like West Marine and Boater's World.

posted 06-05-2004 08:13 PM ET (US)            

Aluminum tubing in 6061-T6 alloy is typically used. This has a tensile strength of about 45,000 PSI. Some other alloys have higher tensile strength, but cost more. (7475-T761 = 75,000 PSI)) These are often called "aircraft alloys".

Prior to becoming a trailer-boater, I used to have quite a bit of aluminum up in the air in the form of Yagi antennas. Amateur radio callsign K8SS. First licensed 40 years ago at age 13. Never had one fail due to wind loading.

For more information on material properties see:

posted 07-22-2004 08:52 AM ET (US)            

I managed to back out the screws and removed the bases from the transom. The prior install was well done with caulk in the screw holes and a bit more around the base. It took some persuasion. For a minute or two, I was thinking "this does not want to come off.."

I cut the pole in between the brackets drilled a 3/4 hole a bit large through a thick piece of wood so the pole slides all the way through and the base sits on the board. Took a couple wacks at the bottom part, no go. The board split. The top part looks more frozen.

posted 07-23-2004 02:12 PM ET (US)            

Perhaps I'm missing the obvious here, but why not just buy a piece of stanless tube and accomplish the same thing vs buying brass & then having it plated?

posted 07-25-2004 05:04 PM ET (US)            

Well, after 2 more hours of effort, got the pieces out. Man were they REALLY stuck.

I have replaced the pole with a Perko replacement (with the bend and bare wires).

Will periodically change its height and keep an eye on it.

posted 07-25-2004 09:21 PM ET (US)            

http://store.hamiltonmarine.com/browse.cfm/4,7628.html

The photo does not show the wires but they are coming out of the tube. It comes with a base that I am not using.

The new light is alot taller than what I replaced. Think it was approximately 12 inches tall. The new one is 30 inches.I am not sure the old one was correct.

posted 07-26-2004 06:34 PM ET (US)            

"Light" may also be used a "source of light"... such as a lamp.

posted 08-02-2004 02:24 PM ET (US)            

click on Stern Light Album