Desperate for Help: Kicker Bracket 1998 17 Outrage II

  ContinuousWave
  Whaler
  Moderated Discussion Areas
  ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
  Desperate for Help: Kicker Bracket 1998 17 Outrage II

search | FAQ | profile | register | author help

Author Topic:   Desperate for Help: Kicker Bracket 1998 17 Outrage II

outrageaholic posted 09-19-2004 02:30 AM ET (US)
I am trying to add a kicker bracket to my 1998 17 Outrage II. I have experienced several [problems] so far which maybe someone out there can resolve.
1) Is there a good kicker bracket which is designed to fit the transom curvature and angle for this model of boat? I have seen several models from a few manufacturers, however they have a straight profile where the bracket contacts the boat.
2) Has anyone ever seen a swim grid [platform?] kicker bracket used on the factory installed swim grid [platform]? If so, what weight can it take without causing the swim grid to crack or be torn away from the boat?
3) Has anyone used Boston Whaler's recommended technique to drill and tap thru the phenolic material to hold a kicker bracket? All local Boston Whaler dealers worry that the phenolic material is just not enough to hold both the weight of the motor plus kicker bracket as it is only 3/8-inch thick. Every bracket I have seen installed on similar models has been thru bolted, however this is not the most cosmetically attractive improvement. I worry about the resale value as these holes are permanant.
4) Best horsepower required for this model?
jimh posted 09-19-2004 04:19 AM ET (US)
The 1998 catalogue pictures do not show a good view of the transom. The curving shape of the transom is suggested in the main photograph on page 18. So it is hard to see exactly what difficulties there might be in mounting a conventional motor bracket.
I rather doubt that an aftermarket manufacturer produced a special bracket to fit the curve of that transom. Your best bet would be to make a custom shim to adapt a bracket designed for a straight transom.
If you have the optional swim platform, it seems like it ought to be able to hold a small outboard motor. After all, it was designed to hold the weight of an adult, which ought to me much more than a small outboard. The problem is probably more in how to mount the outboard, and also the end of the usefulness of the swim platform for its intended purpose once you mount an outboard motor on it.
Joe Kriz posted 09-19-2004 02:02 PM ET (US)
I had a 1997 with a Garelick (adjustable up and down) mounting bracket. I hated it.
RJM on this forum has I believe a 1999 that he installed a solid, removable bracket on his swim step. I saw his installation at the Nor Cal Rendezvous and it looked great. Maybe he can send you a photo or two if he sees this post.
Another solution is as jimh mentions. You could mount a solid bracket on the Starboard side and shim as necessary. Thru-bolt it is the best way to go.
Check this place out:
http://www.tannermfg.com/tannermfg.htm
Scroll down to the Boston Whaler Kicker bracket. They say the brackets are available for flat or crowned transoms to fit all boats.
Joe
Dick posted 09-19-2004 05:10 PM ET (US)
Joe's link to Tanner manufacturing is a good one. Mark Tanner came to our dealership and patterned every new model we recieved for a kicker bracket. His work is beautiful but a bit spendy.
I used a panther Marine static bracket and fabricated my own setback mount to fit my Montauk.
The unit was through bolted and I think this is the only safe way to mount one.
Picture at: www.homepage.mac.com/whaler1/PhotoAlbum4.html
RJM posted 09-19-2004 05:49 PM ET (US)
As Joe mentioned, I have a 1996 17' Outrage II with the factory installed swimstep and ladder. I took a piece of 4 inch alumimum "L" angle and bolted it to the top of the swimstep with one piece of mahogany about 12 inches tall bolted to the trailing edge of the swimstep and the aluminum angle. I bolted another piece of mahogany to the inside of the angle so that the aluminum angle is sandwiched between the two pieces of mahogany.
This kicker bracket is placed between the brackets of the boarding ladder, which I do not take off and I can still deploy the ladder when not using the kicker motor. The bracket works well as a hand hold when using the ladder. I use a 4 hp. kicker, but I am sure the swimstep would work well with a much larger kicker. I would send you a picture, but I haven't joined the digital camera world yet.
outrageaholic posted 09-21-2004 01:40 AM ET (US)
Thank you for the replies.
Chuck Bennet [at Boston Whaler] tells me if I find a bracket to drill and tap it to the boat and not to thru bolt it. So far not to many others would agree. Has any one tried drilling a hole with a stainless steel winged anchor between the phenolic material and foam material(similar to drywall anchors)? This should provide enough support without compromising the looks of the inner hull.
jimh posted 09-21-2004 10:39 AM ET (US)
The phenolic material is usually laminated to the back side of the transom. If the area of the reinforcement is large, and you attach your load to it over a large area, I am sure you will spread the force over enough material to have sufficient strength.
If the reinforced area can support the load of an adult standing on a swim platform, it seems reasonable that it ought to support the deadweight of a small, say 50 to 80-lbs outboard motor.
jimh posted 09-21-2004 11:16 PM ET (US)
Tom Clark answered this question in a duplicate thread containing this same question:
-------------
Tom W Clark
posted 09-21-2004 12:16 PM ET (US)
Do not drill through the phenolic backing. Drill and tap the hole for a machine screw thread and bolt the accessory on.
If you doubt the ability of Whaleboard (phenolic) to accept machine threads and then hold on to the hardware, go get yourself a sample of the material and try a test hole.
This will produce a much cleaner and easier installation and one that is probably stronger as well.
----------------
[The duplicate thread has been closed and will be deleted.]

Hop to:

Contact Us | RETURN to ContinuousWave Top Page

Powered by: Ultimate Bulletin Board, Freeware Version 2000
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.

Author	Topic: Desperate for Help: Kicker Bracket 1998 17 Outrage II
outrageaholic	posted 09-19-2004 02:30 AM ET (US) I am trying to add a kicker bracket to my 1998 17 Outrage II. I have experienced several [problems] so far which maybe someone out there can resolve. 1) Is there a good kicker bracket which is designed to fit the transom curvature and angle for this model of boat? I have seen several models from a few manufacturers, however they have a straight profile where the bracket contacts the boat. 2) Has anyone ever seen a swim grid [platform?] kicker bracket used on the factory installed swim grid [platform]? If so, what weight can it take without causing the swim grid to crack or be torn away from the boat? 3) Has anyone used Boston Whaler's recommended technique to drill and tap thru the phenolic material to hold a kicker bracket? All local Boston Whaler dealers worry that the phenolic material is just not enough to hold both the weight of the motor plus kicker bracket as it is only 3/8-inch thick. Every bracket I have seen installed on similar models has been thru bolted, however this is not the most cosmetically attractive improvement. I worry about the resale value as these holes are permanant. 4) Best horsepower required for this model?
jimh	posted 09-19-2004 04:19 AM ET (US) The 1998 catalogue pictures do not show a good view of the transom. The curving shape of the transom is suggested in the main photograph on page 18. So it is hard to see exactly what difficulties there might be in mounting a conventional motor bracket. I rather doubt that an aftermarket manufacturer produced a special bracket to fit the curve of that transom. Your best bet would be to make a custom shim to adapt a bracket designed for a straight transom. If you have the optional swim platform, it seems like it ought to be able to hold a small outboard motor. After all, it was designed to hold the weight of an adult, which ought to me much more than a small outboard. The problem is probably more in how to mount the outboard, and also the end of the usefulness of the swim platform for its intended purpose once you mount an outboard motor on it.
Joe Kriz	posted 09-19-2004 02:02 PM ET (US) I had a 1997 with a Garelick (adjustable up and down) mounting bracket. I hated it. RJM on this forum has I believe a 1999 that he installed a solid, removable bracket on his swim step. I saw his installation at the Nor Cal Rendezvous and it looked great. Maybe he can send you a photo or two if he sees this post. Another solution is as jimh mentions. You could mount a solid bracket on the Starboard side and shim as necessary. Thru-bolt it is the best way to go. Check this place out: http://www.tannermfg.com/tannermfg.htm Scroll down to the Boston Whaler Kicker bracket. They say the brackets are available for flat or crowned transoms to fit all boats. Joe
Dick	posted 09-19-2004 05:10 PM ET (US) Joe's link to Tanner manufacturing is a good one. Mark Tanner came to our dealership and patterned every new model we recieved for a kicker bracket. His work is beautiful but a bit spendy. I used a panther Marine static bracket and fabricated my own setback mount to fit my Montauk. The unit was through bolted and I think this is the only safe way to mount one. Picture at: www.homepage.mac.com/whaler1/PhotoAlbum4.html
RJM	posted 09-19-2004 05:49 PM ET (US) As Joe mentioned, I have a 1996 17' Outrage II with the factory installed swimstep and ladder. I took a piece of 4 inch alumimum "L" angle and bolted it to the top of the swimstep with one piece of mahogany about 12 inches tall bolted to the trailing edge of the swimstep and the aluminum angle. I bolted another piece of mahogany to the inside of the angle so that the aluminum angle is sandwiched between the two pieces of mahogany. This kicker bracket is placed between the brackets of the boarding ladder, which I do not take off and I can still deploy the ladder when not using the kicker motor. The bracket works well as a hand hold when using the ladder. I use a 4 hp. kicker, but I am sure the swimstep would work well with a much larger kicker. I would send you a picture, but I haven't joined the digital camera world yet.
outrageaholic	posted 09-21-2004 01:40 AM ET (US) Thank you for the replies. Chuck Bennet [at Boston Whaler] tells me if I find a bracket to drill and tap it to the boat and not to thru bolt it. So far not to many others would agree. Has any one tried drilling a hole with a stainless steel winged anchor between the phenolic material and foam material(similar to drywall anchors)? This should provide enough support without compromising the looks of the inner hull.
jimh	posted 09-21-2004 10:39 AM ET (US) The phenolic material is usually laminated to the back side of the transom. If the area of the reinforcement is large, and you attach your load to it over a large area, I am sure you will spread the force over enough material to have sufficient strength. If the reinforced area can support the load of an adult standing on a swim platform, it seems reasonable that it ought to support the deadweight of a small, say 50 to 80-lbs outboard motor.
jimh	posted 09-21-2004 11:16 PM ET (US) Tom Clark answered this question in a duplicate thread containing this same question: ------------- Tom W Clark posted 09-21-2004 12:16 PM ET (US) Do not drill through the phenolic backing. Drill and tap the hole for a machine screw thread and bolt the accessory on. If you doubt the ability of Whaleboard (phenolic) to accept machine threads and then hold on to the hardware, go get yourself a sample of the material and try a test hole. This will produce a much cleaner and easier installation and one that is probably stronger as well. ---------------- [The duplicate thread has been closed and will be deleted.]