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Author Topic:   Plywood vs. Solid Mahogany
Wanchese posted 01-09-2005 10:37 AM ET (US)   Profile for Wanchese   Send Email to Wanchese  
I've just started the process of refinishing a 32-year-old Nauset pilot seat. One of the 3/4 plywood mahogany seat supports is beyond repair and needs to be replaced.

Question(s): Should I replace with 3/4 plywood as in the original or solid Mahogany? Why would BW use plywood instead of solid in the orginal? Is this a weight or cost issue?

Thanks for any insight!

John Stevens

greyg8r posted 01-09-2005 11:21 AM ET (US)     Profile for greyg8r    
John,

I am facing somewhat of the same issue. The seats in my 1970 13' Sport are shot and I want to replace them. I am going to use marine grade mahogany plywood. This is actually much stronger than mahogany planks and I am sure that is why BW used it. Probably cheaper too.

Richard

PeteB88 posted 01-09-2005 01:44 PM ET (US)     Profile for PeteB88  Send Email to PeteB88     
Marine plywood is without question stronger and correct for application. Do a Google search re: marine plywood. Richard is corrrect regarding BW specs. High quality marine ply is superior regarding shear, tensile, water resistance, dimensional stability and fastner holding power. Check Bruynzeel marine mahogany plywood. Being unfamilar with specifc bracket, it would be great to see a photo of the component. My buddy replaced certain wood components in his Outrage with stainless steel brackets - heavy guage - because he is nuts and runs the guts out of his Whaler and breaks stuff in heavy chop.

I would certainly rely on high quality marine ply however, be certain to finish properly esp edge grain. The rule of thumb for recoating bright work in marine environment is when componets lose 50% of gloss - scuff sand, do a few coats w/ marine spar varnish

good luck

Wanchese posted 01-10-2005 07:38 AM ET (US)     Profile for Wanchese  Send Email to Wanchese     
Thanks guys!

The part number is 12-118-201 on BW drawing number 62011800 taken from the 'jkirz' plans on this website (16 foot).

I've been consulting with John Perry who recently announced on this website that he can make BW wooden replacement parts. He says he would make the seat support out of solid mahogany because he doesn't have a good source for true marine plywood.

The impression I get from your comments is that there is no question but that I should go with marine plywood in this case.

Thanks again for your input.

JS

Tom W Clark posted 01-10-2005 12:05 PM ET (US)     Profile for Tom W Clark  Send Email to Tom W Clark     
John,

Yes, you should use plywood for your Nauset "Church Pew" seat support.

Richard,

No! Plywood is NOT the appropriate material for a thwart seat. It will flex far too much and break.

Folks, let's look at what these types of material are, and are not, good at:

Solid wood will always be stiffer along its length than an identically sized piece of plywood. All of it fibers are running in the same direction whereas plywood, being a lamination of wood veneers that alternate direction, will have only about half of it wood fibers running in one direction.

"So what" you ask? Wood fiber has tremendous tensile strength. But put a bunch of wood fibers together and you will find they are relatively easy to separate from one another.

This is why solid wood is such a poor choice for a component like the under gunwale rod racks found on many Boston Whalers. Those are complex shapes with thin wood that crosses both directions. If they are made of solid wood, there will certainly be a point where the grain of the wood is only an inch or so long that that is where it WILL crack and fall off.

By using plywood, there is reinforcing grain in both directions and the part is more likely to stay together.

In the case of a thwart seat in, say, a 1970 Sport 13, the stress applied to the seat is a bending stress. The thwart seat is a plank of 5/4 mahogany and it has to span from one side of the hull to the other and carry (potentially) a lot of weight. The seat is essentially a beam to hold up your butt.

If you use plywood in that application, only about half of the wood fibers are running across the with of the boat and contribute any stiffness. Furthermore, the fibers that do run the length of the seat are subject to greater tensile and compressive forces.

I would also like to point out that (almost all) plywood has a "grain" to it as well. There are typically an odd number of veneers in the composition of a piece of plywood and the face veneers are not the same as the core veneers.

In practice, a piece of plywood will be significantly stiffer along the length of its face veneers that across it. This difference of greater than you might think and can be tested very easily.

To do so take a square of plywood, maybe a half sheet (4' x 4') and put it on a pair of saw horses. Apply a load to it (a bucket of water, small outboard motor, child, etc.) and measure the deflection. Now rotate the plywood 90 degrees and repeat. There will be quite a difference.

To digress even further, Boston Whaler used to test the stiffness of each and every thwart seat they produced for their boats. They had a jig that would apply a load and they would make sure the piece of mahogany did not deflect to much or break. "Soft" thwarts seats were rejected.

This was when they were doing all their woodwork in-house which is almost unheard of in this day and age. I believe the 1970s and 1980s were the decades when Whaler did NOT subcontract out woodwork (or rail work). The did it themselves because that is the only way they could meet their own high standards.

starlight marine posted 01-10-2005 03:12 PM ET (US)     Profile for starlight marine  Send Email to starlight marine     
If you guys would like I can show you one completely done. This seat however is for the Sakonnet. Email ttmarine@bellsouth.net for pics. Hope I can help, Capt. T.
SpeedBump posted 01-10-2005 05:49 PM ET (US)     Profile for SpeedBump  Send Email to SpeedBump     
the pilot seat on a nauset was not always made from plywood. the side seat/vertical seat supports can be made of solid mahogany. the material must be 5/4 thickness and straight grained. When properly glued up and fastened they will hold up as well as Plywood and look much better than the 3/4" marine mahogany ply.
SpeedBump posted 01-10-2005 06:17 PM ET (US)     Profile for SpeedBump  Send Email to SpeedBump     
The pilot seat on a Nauset was not always made from plywood. the two vertical seat supports can be made of solid mahogany. The material must be 5/4 thickness and straight grained. When properly glued up and fastened they will hold up as well as Plywood and look much better than the 3/4" marine mahogany ply. My Nauset pilot seat is solid mahogany and looks absolutly beautiful.

The three boomerang shaped uprights on the the Eastport transom seat that I added to the Nauset were made from ply. all other horizontal slats and seat back were from 5/4 solid mahogany ply. given the seat design solid wood on the boomerang supports would have split under load as the three brackets do not support or carry load from the cockpit sole as a pilot seat does.

Go for the solid Mahogany on the pilot seat it'll be about the same weight and most likely the same cost as a full sheet of good grade marine mahogany plywood. If you do the proper glueups with urethane based glur (gorilla glue) or two part resoursenol it will turn out just fine.

greyg8r posted 01-10-2005 08:10 PM ET (US)     Profile for greyg8r    
Tom,Speedbump,

Thanks for the input. Tom, I should have waited for your response first. This is (one of) your area of expertise.

Richard

PeteB88 posted 01-11-2005 10:05 PM ET (US)     Profile for PeteB88  Send Email to PeteB88     
Interesting exchange. As regards sourcing high quality marine ply there are several places. When I worked in the boat business (consulting/marketing/product development) the shop used only Bruynzeel marine ply. I believe they sell sheets or partial sheets but would have to confirm. I agree solid pieces if thick enough are awesome - laminate them thicker and they are even more awesome with great service life. When we needed to stiffen a componet we would either laminate our own panels/brackets/boards to desired thickness. We did this with 1/4" (equivalent) plywood panel scraps and sometimes 3/4 or 1/2 depending on the mission. We always glued up with West SYSTEMS or System 3 epoxy spread evenly w/ rollers. This shop was traditionally a resourcenol shop and I was involved before urethane glues (Gorilla) became popular.

Therefore, I am curious why you would recommend Gorilla over epoxy and, in fact, have little direct experience with Gorilla. Pls advise, I am interested.

In any case, the cool thing about wood is there are almost no limits as to what can be done or innovated with high quality wood, fastners and adhesives.

best

Wanchese posted 01-12-2005 12:07 PM ET (US)     Profile for Wanchese  Send Email to Wanchese     
Clarification please.

SpeedBump states that the pilot seat supports weren't always made with plywood and that solid mahogany was sometimes used. Can anyone confirm this? The orignal drawing for this part indicates "rib grain, 3/4 plywood mahogany, Royal Marine" and is dated 6/2/61, the year the Nauset first went into production.

Thanks,

John

SpeedBump posted 01-12-2005 07:23 PM ET (US)     Profile for SpeedBump  Send Email to SpeedBump     
I believe I am correct. Case in point, the pilot seat in my Nauset is original, is properly stamped with the corresponding letter coding on the parts and is solid mahogany.

BW records tell me the hull was shipped bare from the factory to the dealer and the dealer installed the consol, forward hatch cover and pilot seat to the customer specifications. Keep in mind the boat could have been destined to be a sakonnet, eastport or nauset given the hull was shipped bare.

Pete- You are correct about the west system , it is an excellent product but two part and must be mixed with care even using their dispenser system. It is also significantly more expensive, so for a single piece or small glue up fresh poly seems to make sence.

In doing a cold molding process or laminating large sheets I would use West and not the poly as poly would be inappropriate for that application. I only recommended the single part Polyurethane because of ease of use. It is relatively new on the market and from what I have read and my experience with it demonstrates a quality product for the marine environment above the waterline. It is perfect for edge joining and glue ups if wood is properly preped clamped and or fastened. I really like the Resoursenol product for the same type of glue ups but if it is not mixed properly it will fail. The single part poly is pretty much goof proof.

PeteB88 posted 01-13-2005 01:07 AM ET (US)     Profile for PeteB88  Send Email to PeteB88     
Thanks Speedbump, I really appreciate your reply and clarification re: poly glues. I have not heard the term Royal grade for a long time. My close friend inhereted 16 foot sheets of Doug Fir Royal Grade marine ply from an old boat builder in OR years ago which were the last of a run of marine ply some OR mill laid up custom in the 50s or 60s. I understand that was the quality of the wood the mills laid up for WWII PT Boats built by Higgins. Thanks again and best regards.

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