posted 05-18-2005 06:41 PM ET (US)        

Now I wish to make the cover out of teak. I know there is a person that did that to their boat. Can someone send me in the right direction about teak for the cover?

posted 05-19-2005 12:16 PM ET (US)            

Here are photos of a 22 with a Wood floor....
http://photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/nice%2022/

posted 05-19-2005 02:08 PM ET (US)            

You and I are in the same boat, so to speak.

Jeff linked a great site that gives an idea on costs, but I think you should call these folks: www.woodworkingforwatercraft.com to see what they're charging for a similar part.

I have no doubt it will be similarly expensive as the OEM cover from the commercial/government products division, but they use much thicker teak planking, rather than a veneer for the teak and holly decking.

Just a thought. I'm thinking that these folks are #1 on my list of folks to call to "find out" when I get serious about replacing my fuel tank cover...and I'm getting closer and closer since I found another soft spot this spring.

Regards,

posted 05-19-2005 04:00 PM ET (US)            

How much teak and how much holly you would need will depend largely on how thick you want the teak/holly surface and how wide you want each strip to be.

The reason I like the link I gave above is that they use 1/4 inch thick teak and holly laminated to 1/2 inch thick marine plywood, vs. the very thin laminate typically available (as in the other link above). I figure chances are good that you're gonna drop something on your floor eventually, and will have to sand the resultant scratch out. Would hate to sand through the laminate to the ply underneath, that's for sure.

posted 05-19-2005 04:53 PM ET (US)            

Thanks for those measurements. Do you remember how big the "lip" was on your cover? (the thinner portion where the screws attached it to the boat?)

I bet the 18's floor then is more like 4 feet by 8 feet then. It's not a full 4 feet shorter in length, due to the additional livewell on the 20 and 22 foot hulls, and it may even be the exact same dimensions...but I wouldn't count on that.

I like that site to drool over their bow pulpits. Looks like they do very nice work.

posted 05-19-2005 07:02 PM ET (US)            

http://www.whalercentral.com/fusion_images/22%20outrage%20Floor%20repair%20small_files/image031.jpg

http://www.whalercentral.com/fusion_images/22%20outrage%20Floor%20repair%20small_files/image030.jpg

http://www.whalercentral.com/fusion_images/22%20outrage%20Floor%20repair%20small_files/image032.jpg

posted 05-19-2005 07:08 PM ET (US)            

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/Floor%20repair/Floorsection.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/Floor%20repair/IMG_0733.jpg

posted 08-08-2005 04:15 PM ET (US)            

Suggestions?

posted 08-08-2005 05:56 PM ET (US)            

You read my mind - that e-mail went out before I posted above.

I don't understand your comment re: unable to use the boat like I am now - could you explain? I already have plenty of teak aboard the boat, and it hasn't cramped my usage / activities one bit.

I'm pretty sure I don't want a project like Jeff had, and I'm relatively sure that's just what I have on my hands.

I realize there will be other projects too. While I'm doing the deck, I'll be replacing fuel filler and tank vent hoses, probably draining the tank cavity and figuring a way to keep it dry, and inspecting the tank. I'm also actually looking forward to re-routing some control cables and laying in a bit of guide-line for future rigging/de-rigging.

posted 08-08-2005 06:17 PM ET (US)            

I expect the ballpark to be about a grand to 1,500 bucks. The OEM part was offered by Whaler (in the wrong color) for just over a thousand bucks. I'd have to have it painted ($300?) anyway, so if it's 1,500 bucks or less, it might be pretty attractive.

It's probable that the tank is okay, since water doesn't really corrode aluminum and neither does gasoline...just the mixture of the two. My water separator/filter checks out clean and I've stirred the tanks pretty good this summer in some snotty and rough stuff. Of course, you can never tell until you're in there checking things out. I'm considering cutting a hole in the foam at the back of the tank like Jeff, sucking it dry and then refilling with foam, and then capping the tank off with a thick plastic barrier to keep condensate, etc running over the tank and into the sump instead of sitting on the tank and soaking into the foam and filling that cavity, although Jeff's solution seems pretty reasonable (except for the space used in the console...my console is already full of the remote oil tank, and two batteries).

Once I get into it, I'll post specifics about what I'm doing and what I'm changing, and ask for opinions and thoughts. Since this will be largely a weekend to weekend project (since the boat is 90 miles away from me), you all will have plenty of time to pooh-pooh my ideas, or shower them with kudos, as the situation may warrant. :)

posted 08-09-2005 10:02 AM ET (US)            

Sounds about right where I thought it might be.

posted 10-17-2005 11:00 AM ET (US)            

The rotted floor is up, leaning on it's side and draining water. The underlying marine plywood is soggy mush, so I'm glad it's out. (The floor was pretty darn heavy - it took hurculean effort and the assistance of a rope tied off to a post in the barn where I keep the boat to get it lifted free...it must have been 250 pounds, and unwieldy!)

Now that my boat is a shell of it's former self, I'll clean up the area underneath and begin preparations for a new floor.

I'm going with the teak and rubber inlay decking, and am planning to use King brand starboard underneath so the deck will never rot again.

Any suggestions on 1.) an adhesive to glue these two dissimilar materials together, and 2.) any recommended treatment to the underside of the decking to prevent rot, warping, etc that should be done before bonding the two together?

I'm happy to report that underneath it all, there does not appear to be any water in the tank cavity, however I've not removed the foam to check. The foam is very sturdy (hard to the touch) and appears to be bone dry.

Thanks for the help.

posted 10-19-2005 09:58 AM ET (US)            

Combined with shipping and the necessary starboard for substrate, we're looking at double the cost of replacing the floor via Brunswick CGP, and pushing me back toward thoughts of repairing the floor via Jeff's example in the reference section.

I wonder if 1/4" thick would make a 50% PRICE difference?

Mike, is this in line with what you paid? Anyone out there have another source for these panels/decking besides worldpanel.com?

posted 10-31-2005 01:17 PM ET (US)            

Was talked out of using StarBoard as a backing substrate for the deck due to weight concerns. I'll be using two layers of 1/4" hardwood plywood, coated with WEST SYSTEM epoxy for protection, and mounted to the teak planking also via WEST SYSTEM epoxy.

Mike - Can you give me details on what you used as the rigging tunnel deckplate? In your photos, it is different from the Hawse-hole that is currently in the deck.

Also - opinions/advice on questions #1 and #2 above would be appreciated by the end of the week when I'll begin the epoxy process (Last weekend when temperatures are forecast to be appropriate for this activity).

Thanks.

posted 11-22-2005 02:22 PM ET (US)            

Whoa that thing is heavy - it must have either a lot of water in it, or just the glass and resin was very heavy.