5200 Adhesive For Mounting Transducer, King StarBoard

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Author Topic:   5200 Adhesive For Mounting Transducer, King StarBoard

highspeed_jd posted 12-24-2005 06:22 PM ET (US)
My girlfriend got me a new fishfinder for Christmas. It is a Furuno LS4100. I already have a fishfinder in place, but the transducer and mount aren't in the right right spot according to the Furuno instructions. I am going to have to take the old mount off and put the new one on.
1. When I take the old transducer off, what kind of sealant is the best to seal the old screw holes? Is 3M 5200 sufficient?
2. Also is 5200 good enough to make a strong seal and bond between my King StarBoard and hull? I don't want to drill holes in the transom so I'm going to bond a piece of King StarBoard to the hull.
3. What size King StarBoard should I use? I have some 1-inch already. Will this be good enough or do I need to get some thicker?
I have never done this kind of install before. I want to make sure that I do this right the first time and not have to do it again.
derf posted 12-24-2005 08:53 PM ET (US)
If possible, use the existing holes to mount the King StarBoard. 1" should be plenty thick. You can even mount SS "T" nuts in the King StarBoard before you mount it for the xducer mounting screws. I don't think 5200 will do it alone for the mounting. It works OK with King StarBoard. But, a couple of screws would be advised. Or, some kind of epoxy that will adhere to King StarBoard. 5200 is good for filling holes left by old transducers. Ideally, Marine-Tex or fiberglass resin should be used if you want to touch up the gelcoat and make the holes go away. But, just to seal the water out, 5200 is good.

highspeed_jd posted 12-24-2005 09:08 PM ET (US)
I appreciate it derf. I hope that you are having a Merry Christmas. I was kinda skeptical about using just the 5200.
tarbaby posted 12-25-2005 05:15 AM ET (US)
If you want a good bond with King StarBoard you have to rough it up on the 5200 side. Really go at it with the roughest paper you can find. A bunch of small dovetail grooves would be better.. No need for screws though.
crazy4salmon posted 12-25-2005 11:36 AM ET (US)
Found these photos in the archives. Looks like a real nice job. The photos are at the bottom of the page with some install info.
http://home.austin.rr.com/smohome/new_conquest23.htm
highspeed_jd posted 12-27-2005 12:11 AM ET (US)
I took the transducer and mount off the old fishfinder today, and noticed that the installer used quite a bit of 5200 to seall around the mount and screws. He did not seal around the cable clamps about 10" up from the mount location, and water drops were coming from the mount holes. I took the transducer off at 10:00 a.m. and it was still dripping a little at 5:30 p.m. Should I drill another hole to let the water out?
jimh posted 12-27-2005 10:38 AM ET (US)
Here is a good photograph of a transducer installed on a small plate bonded to the transom:
http://home.austin.rr.com/smohome/images/Xducedr_from_left.jpg
davej14 posted 12-27-2005 12:37 PM ET (US)
What is the point of mounting starboard to the hull. Why not just mount the transducer to the hull?
Buckda posted 12-27-2005 12:42 PM ET (US)
Dave -
I was wondering the same thing...I think that the primary benefit is that if you need to replace your transducer over the years as you upgrade equipment, etc..you won't be drilling new holes in your transom - just new holes in the "sacrificial" piece of starboard.
Cheers,
Dave
where2 posted 12-27-2005 07:52 PM ET (US)
To remove the water from the transom, fire up your shop-vac and stick it to the hole that is leaking water. Air will get in somewhere and water will come out that hole, trust me.
On my 15' Sport, I mounted a piece of 1/2" Starboard using two of the previous transducer mounting screw holes (using 5200 to keep the water out). I then attached the new transducer to the starboard. It is far easier to overlook a few holes which go strictly into plastic, than a few holes going straight into your transom which may lead to water intrusion if the sealant gives out. Water will not hurt the starboard, no matter how many things your transducer strikes, and how much the screws are backed out.
macfam posted 12-28-2005 08:53 AM ET (US)
On a different application, I was attempting to bond King Starboard to itself. I called the 3M adhesive chemical engineer experts who advised me that they would NOT recommend 3M 5200 to bond King Starboard. (Much to my surprise)
They felt that Scotchweld DP 8005 two-part epoxy would be ideal to bond King Starboard. (They were right)
Scotchweld DP 8500 is somewhat expensive, and requires a small plastic gun and one-time-use mixer nozzles.
But, let me tell ya, it is incredible stuff! I've used it for several other applications around the boats and house.
By the way, it's got a 3 minute worktime!
If I were to put a King Starboard block in the transom for transducer mounting, I would adhere it with DP 8005, and then seal the edges with 5200. Then no screws would be required into the hull.
5200 alone may be more than adequate, but I'm just relating what I learned when I called 3M.

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Author	Topic: 5200 Adhesive For Mounting Transducer, King StarBoard
highspeed_jd	posted 12-24-2005 06:22 PM ET (US) My girlfriend got me a new fishfinder for Christmas. It is a Furuno LS4100. I already have a fishfinder in place, but the transducer and mount aren't in the right right spot according to the Furuno instructions. I am going to have to take the old mount off and put the new one on. 1. When I take the old transducer off, what kind of sealant is the best to seal the old screw holes? Is 3M 5200 sufficient? 2. Also is 5200 good enough to make a strong seal and bond between my King StarBoard and hull? I don't want to drill holes in the transom so I'm going to bond a piece of King StarBoard to the hull. 3. What size King StarBoard should I use? I have some 1-inch already. Will this be good enough or do I need to get some thicker? I have never done this kind of install before. I want to make sure that I do this right the first time and not have to do it again.
derf	posted 12-24-2005 08:53 PM ET (US) If possible, use the existing holes to mount the King StarBoard. 1" should be plenty thick. You can even mount SS "T" nuts in the King StarBoard before you mount it for the xducer mounting screws. I don't think 5200 will do it alone for the mounting. It works OK with King StarBoard. But, a couple of screws would be advised. Or, some kind of epoxy that will adhere to King StarBoard. 5200 is good for filling holes left by old transducers. Ideally, Marine-Tex or fiberglass resin should be used if you want to touch up the gelcoat and make the holes go away. But, just to seal the water out, 5200 is good.
highspeed_jd	posted 12-24-2005 09:08 PM ET (US) I appreciate it derf. I hope that you are having a Merry Christmas. I was kinda skeptical about using just the 5200.
tarbaby	posted 12-25-2005 05:15 AM ET (US) If you want a good bond with King StarBoard you have to rough it up on the 5200 side. Really go at it with the roughest paper you can find. A bunch of small dovetail grooves would be better.. No need for screws though.
crazy4salmon	posted 12-25-2005 11:36 AM ET (US) Found these photos in the archives. Looks like a real nice job. The photos are at the bottom of the page with some install info. http://home.austin.rr.com/smohome/new_conquest23.htm
highspeed_jd	posted 12-27-2005 12:11 AM ET (US) I took the transducer and mount off the old fishfinder today, and noticed that the installer used quite a bit of 5200 to seall around the mount and screws. He did not seal around the cable clamps about 10" up from the mount location, and water drops were coming from the mount holes. I took the transducer off at 10:00 a.m. and it was still dripping a little at 5:30 p.m. Should I drill another hole to let the water out?
jimh	posted 12-27-2005 10:38 AM ET (US) Here is a good photograph of a transducer installed on a small plate bonded to the transom: http://home.austin.rr.com/smohome/images/Xducedr_from_left.jpg
davej14	posted 12-27-2005 12:37 PM ET (US) What is the point of mounting starboard to the hull. Why not just mount the transducer to the hull?
Buckda	posted 12-27-2005 12:42 PM ET (US) Dave - I was wondering the same thing...I think that the primary benefit is that if you need to replace your transducer over the years as you upgrade equipment, etc..you won't be drilling new holes in your transom - just new holes in the "sacrificial" piece of starboard. Cheers, Dave
where2	posted 12-27-2005 07:52 PM ET (US) To remove the water from the transom, fire up your shop-vac and stick it to the hole that is leaking water. Air will get in somewhere and water will come out that hole, trust me. On my 15' Sport, I mounted a piece of 1/2" Starboard using two of the previous transducer mounting screw holes (using 5200 to keep the water out). I then attached the new transducer to the starboard. It is far easier to overlook a few holes which go strictly into plastic, than a few holes going straight into your transom which may lead to water intrusion if the sealant gives out. Water will not hurt the starboard, no matter how many things your transducer strikes, and how much the screws are backed out.
macfam	posted 12-28-2005 08:53 AM ET (US) On a different application, I was attempting to bond King Starboard to itself. I called the 3M adhesive chemical engineer experts who advised me that they would NOT recommend 3M 5200 to bond King Starboard. (Much to my surprise) They felt that Scotchweld DP 8005 two-part epoxy would be ideal to bond King Starboard. (They were right) Scotchweld DP 8500 is somewhat expensive, and requires a small plastic gun and one-time-use mixer nozzles. But, let me tell ya, it is incredible stuff! I've used it for several other applications around the boats and house. By the way, it's got a 3 minute worktime! If I were to put a King Starboard block in the transom for transducer mounting, I would adhere it with DP 8005, and then seal the edges with 5200. Then no screws would be required into the hull. 5200 alone may be more than adequate, but I'm just relating what I learned when I called 3M.