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Author Topic:   Installing Mills Forward Shelter
jimh posted 06-07-2006 08:20 AM ET (US)   Profile for jimh   Send Email to jimh  
Please use this discussion exclusively for comments or questions related to the article in the REFERENCE section

Installing a Mills Forward Shelter
by Bob Kurtz

http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/shelter.html

This very well written and photographed article provides details of the installation procedure for mounting a Mills forward shelter on a DAUNTLESS 160.

I extend my thanks and appreciation to Bob for sending this article for inclusion in the CONTINUOUSWAVE collection of information about Boston Whaler boats.

Taylor posted 06-07-2006 02:50 PM ET (US)     Profile for Taylor  Send Email to Taylor     
Nice job...

Do you happen to know a source for the forward hold-down part shown in Step 3?

Marlin posted 06-07-2006 04:47 PM ET (US)     Profile for Marlin  Send Email to Marlin     
The base is commonly called a "side-mount hinge", I've seen them in West Marine, see part number 412405 in their on-line catalog. The thumb screw is also pretty standard. I assume the stainless bracket is custom-made.

-Bob

Yiddil posted 06-07-2006 05:41 PM ET (US)     Profile for Yiddil  Send Email to Yiddil     
Nice Job Bob!!! GReat info for othewrs in this article:)))Wonder who it was that initially tryed that out to see if it would work? Bob, GReat Idea:))) MY BEst THe Yiddil
home Aside posted 06-07-2006 11:34 PM ET (US)     Profile for home Aside  Send Email to home Aside     
I believe the thumb screw for the forward hold down bracket is 1/4" thread, the same system is used on my 1982 Montauk's Mills forward shelter, only mine didn't come with a thumb screw, it came with a phillips head screw, I went out and found a knob screw, I also dipped the steel bracket plate in Loc-tite rubber color guard tool protector so the bracket wouldn't fray the canvas....

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v368/HomeAside/?action=view& current=IMG_8079.jp

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v368/HomeAside/?action=view& current=IMG_8046.jpg

Nice Job, Enjoy, I do

Pat

home Aside posted 06-07-2006 11:37 PM ET (US)     Profile for home Aside  Send Email to home Aside     
Ooops,

try this one

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v368/HomeAside/?action=view& current=IMG_8078.jpg

couldn't find a photo of my knob screw

Pat

aquaman posted 06-09-2006 01:03 AM ET (US)     Profile for aquaman  Send Email to aquaman     
Bob,

Nice job on the install. You've got me seriously thinking of adding a forward shelter next season.

Thanks,

John

erik selis posted 06-09-2006 02:26 AM ET (US)     Profile for erik selis  Send Email to erik selis     
Very nice job Bob. Great!

Thanks for adding this to the reference section Jim.

Erik

Hines Pointer posted 06-09-2006 10:36 AM ET (US)     Profile for Hines Pointer    
Mills sells the forward hold-down.
Marlin posted 06-09-2006 11:17 AM ET (US)     Profile for Marlin  Send Email to Marlin     
Hines,

Absolutely. Your message made me re-read what I'd written, and maybe it wasn't clear.

Of course, all the required hardware comes with the shelter, including the "custom" bracket. I'm sure that Mills would provide replacement parts as well. But if you want to go third-party for hardware like this, it's pretty standard stuff.

-Bob

runpasthefence posted 09-14-2006 03:06 PM ET (US)     Profile for runpasthefence  Send Email to runpasthefence     
I was looking over this fantastic article when I noticed something somewhat confusing (to me). What is the purpose of countersinking the screw holes for the mounting brackets/tie downs? If the brackets themselves are countersunk, and the contact side of them is flat, would the screw hole still need to be countersunk?

Thanks in advance.


kingfish posted 09-14-2006 03:28 PM ET (US)     Profile for kingfish  Send Email to kingfish     
rptf-

The purpose of countersinking screwholes below a bracket that is already countersunk is to provide relief for the gelcoat as the screw passes through it; without doing so, the gelcoat will flake and/or crack. The countersunk "well" is also a good place to squeeze enough sealant like 3M 4200 to seal the screw against the sides of the hole. I think the reasoning behind this countersinking is explained in the article.

John

K Albus posted 09-14-2006 09:06 PM ET (US)     Profile for K Albus  Send Email to K Albus     
Does anybody have some pictures of all of the hardware used to hold a Mills forward shelter in place when it is deployed?

I'm considering a forward shelter for my Dauntless 180. Before reviewing the reference article about installing the forward shelter on a Dauntless 160 earlier this summer, I always assumed that if I wanted a forward shelter, I would need to install a lot of snaps around the front of my boat. From the pictures in the reference article it does not appear that any snaps are used. Rather, it appears the foward shelter is held in place by two "eyestraps", two "fender hooks", and one "forward hold-down".

From the pictures in the reference article it is clear that there are at least two metal bows which hold the top of the shelter up. Is there also a third metal bow which runs along the bottom front portion of the foward shelter, i.e., resting on the gunnel and held in place by the "forward hold-down"?

runpasthefence posted 09-15-2006 12:05 AM ET (US)     Profile for runpasthefence  Send Email to runpasthefence     
Thanks kingfish, must have missed it.
runpasthefence posted 09-15-2006 09:06 AM ET (US)     Profile for runpasthefence  Send Email to runpasthefence     
After rereading the article, I found where Bob mentioned the purpose of countersinking.

"A larger drill bit—I used a 1/4 inch—should be used to countersink just through the gelcoat (but no further!) to avoid cracking and flaking the surface when the screws are inserted."

kingfish posted 09-15-2006 09:17 AM ET (US)     Profile for kingfish  Send Email to kingfish     
rptf- (et al)-

I would personally recommend *against* using a larger drill bit to countersink the gelcoat, though - it is way too easy for the bit to catch and run right through the gelcoat *and* the fiberglass, leaving you with a hole much too big for the screw (then you really are screwed!). Been there, done that. Use a real countersink bit.

John

Marlin posted 12-13-2006 08:07 AM ET (US)     Profile for Marlin  Send Email to Marlin     
K Albus, sorry I missed your previous post. Assuming that the 180 Dauntless shelter is similar to the 190 Nantucket/Outrage, and I don't see any reason why it would be different, there is very little deck hardware involved -- 3 bimini mounts and 2 fender hooks. All of it is pictured in the article. A friend of mine left the fender hooks off his 190 with no major ill effects, further reducing the hardware.

You are correct, there is a third bow that establishes the forward and side edges of the bottom of the shelter. It is this bottom bow that is secured to the deck with the hinges aft and the hold-down forward. There are no snaps on the deck.

-Bob

Marlin posted 12-13-2006 08:10 AM ET (US)     Profile for Marlin  Send Email to Marlin     
By the way, the shelter worked out spectacularly well all season, proving itself very useful in sun, wind, and rain. The only problem is that during heavy rain, a trickle of water gets underneath the bottom edge and gets the bow seat wet. One day on the Chesapeake I took a freighter's wake over the bow, and quite a bit of water squirted in. That was an unpleasant surprise for my napping nephew. I'm planning to install some weatherstripping beneath the bottom bow to see if that helps.

-Bob

ryland posted 12-27-2006 01:54 AM ET (US)     Profile for ryland  Send Email to ryland     
Can this shelter be fitted for my 2005 150 Sport?
swist posted 12-27-2006 08:24 AM ET (US)     Profile for swist  Send Email to swist     
A countersink is very cheap and any hardware store has them. The risk of making a mess, or at worst as someone above said, is going right through...
home Aside posted 12-27-2006 02:49 PM ET (US)     Profile for home Aside  Send Email to home Aside     
Marlin,

here's a photo of the weather cloth I made for the inside of my forward shelter on my 1982 Montauk, it attaches to the inside of the shelter allowing all water from rain, waves, etc, to run between the forward deck & underside of the weather cloth, keeping everything under the shelter and over the weather cloth dry......check out a search for rigging Montauk for Cruising, there are also some other photo's of my old montauk rigged in the photobucket fiel I posted earlier in this thread...

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v368/HomeAside/?action=view& current=IMG_8084.jpg

Pat

Marlin posted 01-28-2007 08:09 PM ET (US)     Profile for Marlin  Send Email to Marlin     
Ryland, I suspect that the 190 Outrage shelter will be both much too wide and much too curved for your 150 Sport. The shelter from the classic 17' Montauk might be a closer fit; see if you can find somebody who has one and briefly test fit it onto your boat. That's what I did with a friend (Yiddil) who has a Nantucket with a shelter.

Pat, that's a nice setup on your boat! I'll give some thought to the weather cloth approach. As it stands right now, the bow area of the 160 Dauntless is much too small for sleeping, so boat-camping isn't currently part of the plan.

sternorama posted 01-29-2007 01:47 PM ET (US)     Profile for sternorama  Send Email to sternorama     
Question: can someone please tell me if the Mills forward shelter that is designed for the Montauk 17' would fit properly if installed on a (pre-montauk) 1968 17' (16' as we call them here)? Thank you.-G
Whalerdog posted 08-14-2007 09:34 PM ET (US)     Profile for Whalerdog  Send Email to Whalerdog     
any link to mills? tried a search but didn't find it. Thanks
Buckda posted 08-14-2007 10:33 PM ET (US)     Profile for Buckda  Send Email to Buckda     
www.millscanvas.com
Dave Sutton posted 08-16-2007 08:30 PM ET (US)     Profile for Dave Sutton  Send Email to Dave Sutton     
The Mills forward shelter will fit old 16 foot hulls well, so no worries there. You may need to make small teak blocks to space the bow-attachent points corectly, but my Montauk needed them too.

Mills makes first class stuff. Buy with confidence.


Capt. Dave

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