225 Evinrude Ficht: Alarm at 3,000-RPM - Moderated Discussion Areas

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  225 Evinrude Ficht: Alarm at 3,000-RPM

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Author Topic:   225 Evinrude Ficht: Alarm at 3,000-RPM

ZP posted 06-27-2006 05:28 PM ET (US)
I have a 2001 Evinrude 225-HP motor. Below 2,500-RPM my engine runs flawlesly. When I reach 2,800 to 3,000-RPM the engine starts to misfire, almost choking. The CHECK ENGINE alarm and light come on. If I turn the engine off, the light and horn go off, but it gets more interesting. If I apply full throttle to 4,000-RPM, nothing happens. The engine runs OK. The problem only happens when I push the throttle slowly, increasing engine speed. At 3,000-RPM the light and horn come on. Give me some ideas to help me. I really appreciate it.
Peter posted 06-27-2006 07:00 PM ET (US)
Take it to a dealer and determine what codes are stored setting off the check engine lite and the SAFE mode. I'm guessing from the behavior that there is a high temperature condition occuring causing the motor to default to the safe mode. When was the last time the thermostat was checked or the water pump changed?

an86carrera posted 06-27-2006 07:42 PM ET (US)
You can buy the software for about fifty dollars on ebay to check the motor out. DFI Technolgies fixes the EMMs. It sounds like the throttle position sensor to me.
Being a VW Tech you should love this motor, Ficht Technologie was invented in Germany. Buy the software!! Search for ficht on ebay, You'll find it.
Good Luck
Len
an86carrera posted 06-27-2006 07:44 PM ET (US)
Before some one else yells at you.
NO MORE CAPS! Hard to read.
an86carrera posted 06-27-2006 07:48 PM ET (US)
Peter nice boat!! I see that you have Fichts. The reason I don't think it's slow mode is because at WOT it runs fine. Really sounds like TPS.
.02
Len
seahorse posted 06-27-2006 11:27 PM ET (US)
It might even be a harmonic causing a vibration on the crank position sensor mounting bracket. That was the cause of a service bulletin for 2002 Evinrudes that were produced by Bombardier. It would give a "flutter" at the midrange rpms if held there and would not show up if you passed thru that range quickly. With a different prop, the harmonic and the "flutter" was gone. Make sure the CPS is adjusted to the minimum spec, I think that was around .040".
jimh posted 06-28-2006 09:03 AM ET (US)
[Moved to REPAIRS/MODS]
Peter posted 06-28-2006 09:15 AM ET (US)
Thanks Len. I still think the place to start is with figuring out what code(s) are being thrown as what he describes also could be a power reduction by the EMM which can be by a high temp condition sensed in the EMM.
Reading the codes stored on the EMM with a laptop is easier but on my 2002s I can read out the codes stored by the EMM through the system check tachometer. I think the procedure is applicable to 2001s.
The procedure is rather simple:
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable and leave it disconnected for about 10 minutes or turn the battery switch to off.
2. Advance the throttle position sensor (TPS) lever to the full throttle limit and secure it in that position (Note: using the throttle lever to do this may not make it reach the limit).
3. Reconnect or turn on the battery.
4. Read the blinking codes on the "check engine" light.
5. For example Code 12 for a throttle position sensor malfunction will display as on-off-off-on-off-on-off on the "check engine" light. If this is the only code it will repeat. If it is not the only code, others will follow in numerical order and the sequence will repeat so do not worry if you miss the beginning of the fault codes displayed as the entire sequence of codes will repeat.
an86carrera posted 06-28-2006 09:27 AM ET (US)
TPS can also be checked with a volt-ohm-meter it is a potentiometer. If it is intermittant anywhere in its movement it will screw up the acceleration.
Connect to center tap and either outer one then the other outer one check resistance as you move it. It will either go up or down in resistance depending on which side your checking.
They cost about eighty dollars I have a spare if anyone wants to troubleshoot with it just postage both ways.
Len
ZP posted 06-28-2006 06:04 PM ET (US)
thank you guys i'll look into your sudgestions and
i will let you know later what fixed the problem.
seahorse posted 06-28-2006 06:51 PM ET (US)

ZP,
I did some research and if you find code #16 in the memory, then its a "vibrating" crankshaft position sensor (CPS) due to harmonics
The fix is described on service bulletin # 2002-05W that your dealer should have. The kit is Part number 5005450. Sorry, there is no warranty on that motor.
The kit applies to motors 200hp and up from 2001 thru early 2003, serial numbers below 5017877
ZP posted 06-29-2006 01:40 PM ET (US)
thank you seahorse, yesterday i ordered the diagnostic
tool kit, i'll check the codes and let you know the
result, there's somthing else that makes me think you
are right, if i turn on the engine outside the water
and do the exact same operation, no problem happens, all
work perfect at any rpm.
hcr250 posted 06-29-2006 01:46 PM ET (US)
tps sensor may just be lose, that why when you have it on land it doesnt do it, no bumping. Use a multimeter, and play with the screw to set proper voltage.
demoniak posted 07-09-2009 01:13 PM ET (US)
ZP, did you ever solve this?
I have the exact same problem with my Evinrude Ficht V4 90hk 1999.
At low or high revs it runs just fine. It works to accelerate/decelerate through mid-revs (~3000 RPM) if I do it fast. If I try to stay in mid-revs it will soon set of the Check Engine alarm and go into S.L.O.W. and lock itself at idle-speed. It will keep on running fine at idle-speed but if I switch off the engine it is difficult to start again, the starter motor will only run for less than a second. It will take several tries before the motor is able to start with just less than a second crank of the starter motor.
I have used the Diagnostics Software to read out the service codes. "#12 TPS Circuit fault" is set. The description says that one of the related codes "#13 TPS above expected range" or "#14 TPS Below expected range" is usually set too, but it is NOT.
I have used a multimeter to analyze the TPS and the resistance seems to change smoothly throughout the movement range. I have now ordered a brand new TPS, hope that will solve this problem.

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Author	Topic: 225 Evinrude Ficht: Alarm at 3,000-RPM
ZP	posted 06-27-2006 05:28 PM ET (US) I have a 2001 Evinrude 225-HP motor. Below 2,500-RPM my engine runs flawlesly. When I reach 2,800 to 3,000-RPM the engine starts to misfire, almost choking. The CHECK ENGINE alarm and light come on. If I turn the engine off, the light and horn go off, but it gets more interesting. If I apply full throttle to 4,000-RPM, nothing happens. The engine runs OK. The problem only happens when I push the throttle slowly, increasing engine speed. At 3,000-RPM the light and horn come on. Give me some ideas to help me. I really appreciate it.
Peter	posted 06-27-2006 07:00 PM ET (US) Take it to a dealer and determine what codes are stored setting off the check engine lite and the SAFE mode. I'm guessing from the behavior that there is a high temperature condition occuring causing the motor to default to the safe mode. When was the last time the thermostat was checked or the water pump changed?
an86carrera	posted 06-27-2006 07:42 PM ET (US) You can buy the software for about fifty dollars on ebay to check the motor out. DFI Technolgies fixes the EMMs. It sounds like the throttle position sensor to me. Being a VW Tech you should love this motor, Ficht Technologie was invented in Germany. Buy the software!! Search for ficht on ebay, You'll find it. Good Luck Len
an86carrera	posted 06-27-2006 07:44 PM ET (US) Before some one else yells at you. NO MORE CAPS! Hard to read.
an86carrera	posted 06-27-2006 07:48 PM ET (US) Peter nice boat!! I see that you have Fichts. The reason I don't think it's slow mode is because at WOT it runs fine. Really sounds like TPS. .02 Len
seahorse	posted 06-27-2006 11:27 PM ET (US) It might even be a harmonic causing a vibration on the crank position sensor mounting bracket. That was the cause of a service bulletin for 2002 Evinrudes that were produced by Bombardier. It would give a "flutter" at the midrange rpms if held there and would not show up if you passed thru that range quickly. With a different prop, the harmonic and the "flutter" was gone. Make sure the CPS is adjusted to the minimum spec, I think that was around .040".
jimh	posted 06-28-2006 09:03 AM ET (US) [Moved to REPAIRS/MODS]
Peter	posted 06-28-2006 09:15 AM ET (US) Thanks Len. I still think the place to start is with figuring out what code(s) are being thrown as what he describes also could be a power reduction by the EMM which can be by a high temp condition sensed in the EMM. Reading the codes stored on the EMM with a laptop is easier but on my 2002s I can read out the codes stored by the EMM through the system check tachometer. I think the procedure is applicable to 2001s. The procedure is rather simple: 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable and leave it disconnected for about 10 minutes or turn the battery switch to off. 2. Advance the throttle position sensor (TPS) lever to the full throttle limit and secure it in that position (Note: using the throttle lever to do this may not make it reach the limit). 3. Reconnect or turn on the battery. 4. Read the blinking codes on the "check engine" light. 5. For example Code 12 for a throttle position sensor malfunction will display as on-off-off-on-off-on-off on the "check engine" light. If this is the only code it will repeat. If it is not the only code, others will follow in numerical order and the sequence will repeat so do not worry if you miss the beginning of the fault codes displayed as the entire sequence of codes will repeat.
an86carrera	posted 06-28-2006 09:27 AM ET (US) TPS can also be checked with a volt-ohm-meter it is a potentiometer. If it is intermittant anywhere in its movement it will screw up the acceleration. Connect to center tap and either outer one then the other outer one check resistance as you move it. It will either go up or down in resistance depending on which side your checking. They cost about eighty dollars I have a spare if anyone wants to troubleshoot with it just postage both ways. Len
ZP	posted 06-28-2006 06:04 PM ET (US) thank you guys i'll look into your sudgestions and i will let you know later what fixed the problem.
seahorse	posted 06-28-2006 06:51 PM ET (US) ZP, I did some research and if you find code #16 in the memory, then its a "vibrating" crankshaft position sensor (CPS) due to harmonics The fix is described on service bulletin # 2002-05W that your dealer should have. The kit is Part number 5005450. Sorry, there is no warranty on that motor. The kit applies to motors 200hp and up from 2001 thru early 2003, serial numbers below 5017877
ZP	posted 06-29-2006 01:40 PM ET (US) thank you seahorse, yesterday i ordered the diagnostic tool kit, i'll check the codes and let you know the result, there's somthing else that makes me think you are right, if i turn on the engine outside the water and do the exact same operation, no problem happens, all work perfect at any rpm.
hcr250	posted 06-29-2006 01:46 PM ET (US) tps sensor may just be lose, that why when you have it on land it doesnt do it, no bumping. Use a multimeter, and play with the screw to set proper voltage.
demoniak	posted 07-09-2009 01:13 PM ET (US) ZP, did you ever solve this? I have the exact same problem with my Evinrude Ficht V4 90hk 1999. At low or high revs it runs just fine. It works to accelerate/decelerate through mid-revs (~3000 RPM) if I do it fast. If I try to stay in mid-revs it will soon set of the Check Engine alarm and go into S.L.O.W. and lock itself at idle-speed. It will keep on running fine at idle-speed but if I switch off the engine it is difficult to start again, the starter motor will only run for less than a second. It will take several tries before the motor is able to start with just less than a second crank of the starter motor. I have used the Diagnostics Software to read out the service codes. "#12 TPS Circuit fault" is set. The description says that one of the related codes "#13 TPS above expected range" or "#14 TPS Below expected range" is usually set too, but it is NOT. I have used a multimeter to analyze the TPS and the resistance seems to change smoothly throughout the movement range. I have now ordered a brand new TPS, hope that will solve this problem.