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Author Topic:   Hinging Center Console Outrage 20

R I Whaler posted 09-18-2006 11:11 PM ET (US)
I just upgraded from a 1973 Montauk style center console to a 1987 Outrage 20. I have a height restriction under a bridge that I take every day. At very high tide, my Montauk console rail just (within a inch) clears the bridge. Although the console on the Outrage 20 is about the same height off the deck, the deck on the Outrage is several inches higher, above water line than the old Montauk.
My choices are to eliminate the windshield and console rail, or hinge the console. I even think the shift control lever is too high if I eliminate the rail and windsheild.
Does anyone know the exact height difference from the water line of the two boats?
Does anyone have an idea about hinging the console so I can drop it and still steer and control the boat under the bridge?
Does anyone have any other ideas?
Thanks,
Mike
jimh posted 09-19-2006 08:46 AM ET (US)
Many owners of classic Boston Whaler boats have raised the height of the center console by using wood blocks as a riser. You ought to investigate this option when you install a hinge. It could be a nice addition.
The console is raised by adding a riser to the base. Usually these are made by laminating some planks together. You could incorporate the hinge into this riser. Leave one plank as the attachment for the console base, then hinge it to the remaining planks which form the riser.
Also, you will have to re-do the console wiring, helm steering cables, and shift and throttle cables so that they incorporate a loop or slack which permits the console to be tilted. It sounds like a lot of work. It might be easier to wait for low tide!
Console riser on SPOUTER, a classic Boston Whaler OUTRAGE 22 center console, modified to raise console several inches.
JayR posted 09-19-2006 09:00 AM ET (US)
Easier option......
Move everything you don't want to get wet up off the floor.
Put the plugs in and fill the boat with enough water to get it to sit lower in the water using a bilge pump thrown over the side.
Once on the other side pull the plugs and hit the throttle.
We used to do this with a bass boat in Louisiana when I was stationed there in the USAF. It was the only way to get to a particular body of water off a local bayou. We were passing under a roadway. Of course, we had to run a pump to get the water back out as it did not float up high enough like a Whaler.
R I Whaler posted 09-19-2006 12:56 PM ET (US)
Thanks for the replies. I know any solution will be a lot of work, but I need to persue something to clear the bridge. It is my only access out of my small waterway to the harbor and ocean. I don't mind spending the time and money to come up with a creative solution that looks good and is easy to handle once its done. I can't count on tides, as I can be stuck for hours.
Any ideas on making the windshield and console railing easily removable? I don't want to eliminate them completely.
I think I also have an issue with the shift/ throttle control.
Does anyone know the height difference, relative to the water line of the deck on Outrage 20 vs. Montauk?
Do some of the newer models of Outrages, ('91, '92) have the hinged console design? If so any idea on where I could see pictures or details of that design.
Thanks again for your input.
Mike
Casco Bay Outrage posted 09-19-2006 01:12 PM ET (US)
Mike -
I recall a thread discussing modifying the console rail and windshield on a new Outrage 190 to fit in a garage. Do a search and contact the originator. It may be easier to do this over the whole console.
For the shifter, I don't have any ideas.
Over the LINE posted 09-19-2006 01:53 PM ET (US)
A friend of mine owned a non-BW that had a custom hinged grab rail & windshield. The windshield was attached to the rail instead of the console. It folded forward to allow the boat to fit under a carport. If he still had it I would send you a picture.
R I Whaler posted 09-19-2006 08:46 PM ET (US)
Thanks for all the replies. I searched and found the thread you refer to. It was very helpful. I e-mailed the guy for details on the removable rail.
I'm still contemplating the hinged console. Does anyone have any details on anything like that. I thinks the 1992 Outrage 19 II had a hinged console?
Thanks,
Mike
Tonym posted 09-19-2006 10:38 PM ET (US)
mike.
I have a 1988 Rigid Raider that is 18 feet 6 inches. I had clearance problems pulling it through my garage to my back patio where it lives most of its life. I have an edgwater center console that is fairly tall. I installed
three hinges in the front of the console and 2 ancor bolts in the back, it takes about 2 minutes to drop it forward but only at 45 degrees. but that is enough for my needs.
it gives me an additional 1- 1 1/2 feet of cleerancewhich is all i need. Hope this helps....Tonym
jimh posted 09-19-2006 11:35 PM ET (US)
[Deleted duplicate discussion in another area.]
Plotman posted 09-20-2006 12:08 AM ET (US)
I think JimH's idea of installing 2 piece risers that the console attatches to is brilliant. The angled aluminum would connect with the console as usual, and would screw into the upper hardwood (teak) riser. Mortise a heavy duty hunge into the front edge of the upper and lower risers, and secure it with #12 screws, or even through bolt it using flathead machine screws, with the nuts recessed into bigger holes. Assuming you use thick enough stock, this should work well.
I would hold the console in place (hold the two hinged pieces of wood together) using 5/16 thumbscrews that screw into stainless T-nuts in the bottom riser - probably 2 on each side.
This should be rock solid when you have it locked down, entail just removing 4 thumbscrews to tilt forward, and not entail drilling any new holes in your boat or console.
As others have said, the hard part is going to be redoing the steering (I'm assuming hydraulic), shift/throttle cables and all the wiring to give you enough slack.

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Author	Topic: Hinging Center Console Outrage 20
R I Whaler	posted 09-18-2006 11:11 PM ET (US) I just upgraded from a 1973 Montauk style center console to a 1987 Outrage 20. I have a height restriction under a bridge that I take every day. At very high tide, my Montauk console rail just (within a inch) clears the bridge. Although the console on the Outrage 20 is about the same height off the deck, the deck on the Outrage is several inches higher, above water line than the old Montauk. My choices are to eliminate the windshield and console rail, or hinge the console. I even think the shift control lever is too high if I eliminate the rail and windsheild. Does anyone know the exact height difference from the water line of the two boats? Does anyone have an idea about hinging the console so I can drop it and still steer and control the boat under the bridge? Does anyone have any other ideas? Thanks, Mike
jimh	posted 09-19-2006 08:46 AM ET (US) Many owners of classic Boston Whaler boats have raised the height of the center console by using wood blocks as a riser. You ought to investigate this option when you install a hinge. It could be a nice addition. The console is raised by adding a riser to the base. Usually these are made by laminating some planks together. You could incorporate the hinge into this riser. Leave one plank as the attachment for the console base, then hinge it to the remaining planks which form the riser. Also, you will have to re-do the console wiring, helm steering cables, and shift and throttle cables so that they incorporate a loop or slack which permits the console to be tilted. It sounds like a lot of work. It might be easier to wait for low tide! Console riser on SPOUTER, a classic Boston Whaler OUTRAGE 22 center console, modified to raise console several inches.
JayR	posted 09-19-2006 09:00 AM ET (US) Easier option...... Move everything you don't want to get wet up off the floor. Put the plugs in and fill the boat with enough water to get it to sit lower in the water using a bilge pump thrown over the side. Once on the other side pull the plugs and hit the throttle. We used to do this with a bass boat in Louisiana when I was stationed there in the USAF. It was the only way to get to a particular body of water off a local bayou. We were passing under a roadway. Of course, we had to run a pump to get the water back out as it did not float up high enough like a Whaler.
R I Whaler	posted 09-19-2006 12:56 PM ET (US) Thanks for the replies. I know any solution will be a lot of work, but I need to persue something to clear the bridge. It is my only access out of my small waterway to the harbor and ocean. I don't mind spending the time and money to come up with a creative solution that looks good and is easy to handle once its done. I can't count on tides, as I can be stuck for hours. Any ideas on making the windshield and console railing easily removable? I don't want to eliminate them completely. I think I also have an issue with the shift/ throttle control. Does anyone know the height difference, relative to the water line of the deck on Outrage 20 vs. Montauk? Do some of the newer models of Outrages, ('91, '92) have the hinged console design? If so any idea on where I could see pictures or details of that design. Thanks again for your input. Mike
Casco Bay Outrage	posted 09-19-2006 01:12 PM ET (US) Mike - I recall a thread discussing modifying the console rail and windshield on a new Outrage 190 to fit in a garage. Do a search and contact the originator. It may be easier to do this over the whole console. For the shifter, I don't have any ideas.
Over the LINE	posted 09-19-2006 01:53 PM ET (US) A friend of mine owned a non-BW that had a custom hinged grab rail & windshield. The windshield was attached to the rail instead of the console. It folded forward to allow the boat to fit under a carport. If he still had it I would send you a picture.
R I Whaler	posted 09-19-2006 08:46 PM ET (US) Thanks for all the replies. I searched and found the thread you refer to. It was very helpful. I e-mailed the guy for details on the removable rail. I'm still contemplating the hinged console. Does anyone have any details on anything like that. I thinks the 1992 Outrage 19 II had a hinged console? Thanks, Mike
Tonym	posted 09-19-2006 10:38 PM ET (US) mike. I have a 1988 Rigid Raider that is 18 feet 6 inches. I had clearance problems pulling it through my garage to my back patio where it lives most of its life. I have an edgwater center console that is fairly tall. I installed three hinges in the front of the console and 2 ancor bolts in the back, it takes about 2 minutes to drop it forward but only at 45 degrees. but that is enough for my needs. it gives me an additional 1- 1 1/2 feet of cleerancewhich is all i need. Hope this helps....Tonym
jimh	posted 09-19-2006 11:35 PM ET (US) [Deleted duplicate discussion in another area.]
Plotman	posted 09-20-2006 12:08 AM ET (US) I think JimH's idea of installing 2 piece risers that the console attatches to is brilliant. The angled aluminum would connect with the console as usual, and would screw into the upper hardwood (teak) riser. Mortise a heavy duty hunge into the front edge of the upper and lower risers, and secure it with #12 screws, or even through bolt it using flathead machine screws, with the nuts recessed into bigger holes. Assuming you use thick enough stock, this should work well. I would hold the console in place (hold the two hinged pieces of wood together) using 5/16 thumbscrews that screw into stainless T-nuts in the bottom riser - probably 2 on each side. This should be rock solid when you have it locked down, entail just removing 4 thumbscrews to tilt forward, and not entail drilling any new holes in your boat or console. As others have said, the hard part is going to be redoing the steering (I'm assuming hydraulic), shift/throttle cables and all the wiring to give you enough slack.