Raising the RPS with 3.5"x3.5"x1/4" FRP Tubing

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Author Topic:   Raising the RPS with 3.5"x3.5"x1/4" FRP Tubing

KDW posted 04-29-2007 10:28 PM ET (US)
Just thought some might find another alternative approach worth considering when raising the RPS on their whalers.
I used FRP (fiberglass reinforced polyester) square tubing that is 3.5" x 3.5" x 1/4" thick. The nice thing about this material is that it is a perfect fit dimensionally with the "feet" of the seat legs and 3.5" was just the right height for me (I'm 6',1") and to clear a 72 Qt. cooler with enough room to spare. It's also very strong and lightweight and can be cut to shape and size like wood. I also used left over pieces (it comes in 5' lengths) and some 3 x 3 angle to frame up the cooler "docking" station under the seat. The FRP cuts easily enough, but is very dusty so a mask and good ventilation is needed.
All worked out very well. I wish the FRP was available in beige, but the army green doesn't look to bad with the desert tan. I purchased the FRP from McMaster Carr, but there's bound to be other good sources out there.
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t203/kdwyndham/DSCN1218.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t203/kdwyndham/DSCN1219.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t203/kdwyndham/DSCN1220.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t203/kdwyndham/DSCN1221.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t203/kdwyndham/DSCN1222.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t203/kdwyndham/DSCN1223.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t203/kdwyndham/DSCN1224.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t203/kdwyndham/DSCN1225.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t203/kdwyndham/DSCN1213.jpg
andygere posted 04-30-2007 11:48 AM ET (US)
KW,
Great looking job, and a nice design on the cooler dock. Years ago, I worked for firm fabricating submerged reservoir aeration towers out of the same material. The brand name of the product was Extren, and the manufacturer recommended coating all cut surfaces with epoxy to prevent water from wicking up the glass fiber strands. I don't know how much of a problem that would be on a non-submerged application, but you might consider brushing some West system or similar on those cut edges and inside the fastener holes the next time you have things apart.
We cut the material using a chop saw with an abrasive blade, and it cut nicely, but as you said, it was very dusty. That fiberglass dust will have you itching for days, so if anyone else is considering a similar project, be sure to wear gloves and long sleeves, and a good dust mask.
I used scrap materials from one of those projects to build a cooler rack for the front of my CJ-5 beach buggy. It was solid, corrosion proof, and easily made to the exact dimension I wanted. The Extren FRP material is really nice stuff for fabricating items that will be exposed to harsh conditions.
dfmcintyre posted 04-30-2007 01:11 PM ET (US)
KW -
Same here....very nice job!
If you want to paint them, best solution I could recommend is towing your rig to the closest automotive paint supplier that can custom mix paint colors. Many of those type shops have an electronic analyzer that they "shoot" (for lack of a better term) your hull and can create a match.
I've used a PPG product called Concept 2000 for minor and major repairs to my hull and console using this method. While the material usually is sprayed, it can be brushed using a foam disposable brush, especially down low where it's more likely to suffer some abuse.
Good job!
Regards - Don
KDW posted 04-30-2007 05:51 PM ET (US)
Thanks andygere and Don for the comments.
I had no idea the cut edges might wick water, so I'll certainly see about sealing everything.
Maybe I can kill two birds with one stone and paint everything with an thin primer epoxy coat and top epoxy paint to match the Desert Tan?
Yep, I itch just remembering the job, but think I learned enough that I could do a much better job controlling the dust the next time - it does make a mess!
Thanks Again,
KW
dfmcintyre posted 04-30-2007 08:50 PM ET (US)
KW -
With the Concept, there is no need to laydown primer first. If the base shows after the first coat, just lay down another.
If you want a real top drawer job, use the foam brush for the first coat, and the second coat use one of the Preval spot sprayers. It will dry out looking wet.
Don

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Author	Topic: Raising the RPS with 3.5"x3.5"x1/4" FRP Tubing
KDW	posted 04-29-2007 10:28 PM ET (US) Just thought some might find another alternative approach worth considering when raising the RPS on their whalers. I used FRP (fiberglass reinforced polyester) square tubing that is 3.5" x 3.5" x 1/4" thick. The nice thing about this material is that it is a perfect fit dimensionally with the "feet" of the seat legs and 3.5" was just the right height for me (I'm 6',1") and to clear a 72 Qt. cooler with enough room to spare. It's also very strong and lightweight and can be cut to shape and size like wood. I also used left over pieces (it comes in 5' lengths) and some 3 x 3 angle to frame up the cooler "docking" station under the seat. The FRP cuts easily enough, but is very dusty so a mask and good ventilation is needed. All worked out very well. I wish the FRP was available in beige, but the army green doesn't look to bad with the desert tan. I purchased the FRP from McMaster Carr, but there's bound to be other good sources out there. http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t203/kdwyndham/DSCN1218.jpg http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t203/kdwyndham/DSCN1219.jpg http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t203/kdwyndham/DSCN1220.jpg http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t203/kdwyndham/DSCN1221.jpg http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t203/kdwyndham/DSCN1222.jpg http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t203/kdwyndham/DSCN1223.jpg http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t203/kdwyndham/DSCN1224.jpg http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t203/kdwyndham/DSCN1225.jpg http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t203/kdwyndham/DSCN1213.jpg
andygere	posted 04-30-2007 11:48 AM ET (US) KW, Great looking job, and a nice design on the cooler dock. Years ago, I worked for firm fabricating submerged reservoir aeration towers out of the same material. The brand name of the product was Extren, and the manufacturer recommended coating all cut surfaces with epoxy to prevent water from wicking up the glass fiber strands. I don't know how much of a problem that would be on a non-submerged application, but you might consider brushing some West system or similar on those cut edges and inside the fastener holes the next time you have things apart. We cut the material using a chop saw with an abrasive blade, and it cut nicely, but as you said, it was very dusty. That fiberglass dust will have you itching for days, so if anyone else is considering a similar project, be sure to wear gloves and long sleeves, and a good dust mask. I used scrap materials from one of those projects to build a cooler rack for the front of my CJ-5 beach buggy. It was solid, corrosion proof, and easily made to the exact dimension I wanted. The Extren FRP material is really nice stuff for fabricating items that will be exposed to harsh conditions.
dfmcintyre	posted 04-30-2007 01:11 PM ET (US) KW - Same here....very nice job! If you want to paint them, best solution I could recommend is towing your rig to the closest automotive paint supplier that can custom mix paint colors. Many of those type shops have an electronic analyzer that they "shoot" (for lack of a better term) your hull and can create a match. I've used a PPG product called Concept 2000 for minor and major repairs to my hull and console using this method. While the material usually is sprayed, it can be brushed using a foam disposable brush, especially down low where it's more likely to suffer some abuse. Good job! Regards - Don
KDW	posted 04-30-2007 05:51 PM ET (US) Thanks andygere and Don for the comments. I had no idea the cut edges might wick water, so I'll certainly see about sealing everything. Maybe I can kill two birds with one stone and paint everything with an thin primer epoxy coat and top epoxy paint to match the Desert Tan? Yep, I itch just remembering the job, but think I learned enough that I could do a much better job controlling the dust the next time - it does make a mess! Thanks Again, KW
dfmcintyre	posted 04-30-2007 08:50 PM ET (US) KW - With the Concept, there is no need to laydown primer first. If the base shows after the first coat, just lay down another. If you want a real top drawer job, use the foam brush for the first coat, and the second coat use one of the Preval spot sprayers. It will dry out looking wet. Don