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Author Topic:   Steersman Nut Installation

Marsh posted 07-09-2007 01:00 PM ET (US)
I have read about the Steersman nut, and thought it to be a good idea, so I ordered one for my 2005 Mercury 115hp 4-stroke. Some of you may be familiar with this nut. It is fitted with a grease zerk, and replaces the large (1 inch I.D. on my engine) nut on the engine through which the steering rod moves. Looks simple enough to install, but when I attempt to remove the factory nut, it turns as if attached to a spring: after making one turn, when the wrench is removed in order to make another turn, the nut springs back to its original position.
I halted my install until I learn more. Any advice?
Thanks,
Marsh

masterskiman posted 07-09-2007 02:53 PM ET (US)
It does NOT replace the factory nut...It threads onto the end of the existing tilt tube. There should be about 3/4 to 1" of thread there to screw the not onto.
The factory nut you are trying to remove is more than likely turning the entire tilt tube and there may be a spring attached on the underside for the locking mech.
Remove the attached steering arm, place nut over teleflex steering rod and screw onto the tilt tube. Lube the system and you should be done.
Marsh posted 07-09-2007 03:23 PM ET (US)
Masterskiman:
What you say does make sense, except that there are no threads showing. Also, the instructions that accompanied the Steersman nut clearly say to replace the factory nut with the Steersman piece...both in words and pictures.
Once again, I probably should have left well-enough alone...I hope I have done no damage thus far. I guess I am just a compulsive tinkerer.
Marsh
adaco posted 07-09-2007 03:45 PM ET (US)
Marsh:
I installed a Stearsman nut on my Yamaha 60 2 stroke. That definitely involved removing the factory nut and replacing it with the Stearsman, so I think you are on the right track. I think Stearsman even sells them in sets of two, one for each side of the arm.
All I can suggest is that you contact either Mercury or Stearsman, or both. Most manufacturers websites seem to have a "Contact us" link, although they can be hard to find sometimes, unless you navigate around the site.
Hope this helps.
adaco
adaco posted 07-09-2007 03:47 PM ET (US)
Oops, that should read "Steersman." "Stearman" is the name of my favorite fishing spot.
adaco
L H G posted 07-09-2007 05:51 PM ET (US)
Although well intended I'm sure, the information from "masterskiman" is incorrect. As a dedicated lifelong Merc owner, I am familiar with the Steersman nut installation on Mercs, use them extensively for both mechanical steering and side mount hydraulic cylinders, and I believe the original person here who first recommended this device.
The Mercury tilt tube is different from other brands in that it has an O-ring gasket inside the tilt tube, at the steering ram exit side, that MUST be removed. This O-ring is the whole reason so many Merc's have steering ram freeze up. Although it is a fine solution when a new ring is installed, nobody EVER does it, since to replace the ring the steering has to be withdrawn from the tilt tube, and usually to do that the engine has to come off the boat. So the O-ring just wears out, and lets the contaminants in, resulting in eventual freeze-up.
The Steersman nut easily solves this complex problem. First of all, it can be unscrewed and slid off the steering ram for easy service and REGULAR O-ring replacement intervals, keeping grease in and dirt out. In addition, when temporarily removed, allows the ram to be cleaned, and new grease worked back in (because the ORIGINAL MERC O-RING HAS BEEN REMOVED). It also created a "grease plug" behind the nut which further prevents a worn O-ring from letting the crud in.
For mechanical steering rigs, the Steering ram must be unscrewed from the starboard engine side, and the ram withdrawn enough to access the O-ring inside the port end of the tilt tube. You MAY have to even pull the engine off the boat, but don't do that until you have the Steersman first installed and the factory nuts cracked loose! The O-ring sits in a machined groove. Removing this allows grease to move freely into the tilt tube, and prevents the squeeging action it would normally do, destroying any benefit of the Steersman. Then, using a PAIR of big wrenches, you have to break loose the big nuts on both end of the tilt tube, so the factory port nut can be discarded. This can be difficult! There is no spring tension, etc involved. The starboard side factory nut stays in place (where the mechanical steering threads on), but the Steersman replaces the port side nut. You need the two wrenches to tighten it back up. Once done, now you have a fully serviceable situation, with the Steersman O-ring replacing the original Merc tilt tube O-ring. Replace the Steersman O-ring, available at any hardware store, once a year. Shoot grease into the zerk as needed, but once in while unthread the Steersman, slid it off the ram, and work more clean grease back in. A simple job, and your steering will work easy from now on!
See
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v429/lgoltz/Outrage%2021/DSCN1361.jpg
a photo of my Steersman installation.
bigjohn1 posted 07-09-2007 06:39 PM ET (US)
Marsh, since you and I have the same engine, I can tell you how I did it. LHG was the one who recommended it initially and I’m damned glad I listened to him because I never have steering problems even though I live in a harsh saltwater environment.
First, as to the removal of the tilt tube o-ring, I had the dealer take care of that. The boat was already in the shop for unrelated maintenance so I had them raise the engine and remove the tilt tube o-ring at the same time.
Once the o-ring is off, I can tell you to remove the factory nut and replace with the Steersman nut, I actually used three open-end wrenches at once. One was for the port ram nut, one for the starboard ram nut , and the third was to hold the steering cable nut. I started out initially using two wrenches (on the two ram nuts) but the steering cable began to rotate and I decided to place an additional wrench there to avoid a twisted steering cable. I placed a rubber mat across the threshold of the splash well (to avoid the wrenches dinging gel coat) and the starboard jam nut wrench and steering cable wrenches were held by my son as I removed the factory nut from the port side. The removal of the steering linkage/rod is self-explanatory so you won’t have any issues there.
The entire process took me perhaps an hour or so but remember, I did not have to deal with removal of the tilt tube o-ring.
Marsh posted 07-09-2007 09:35 PM ET (US)
LHG and BigJohn:
Thanks for the info. At this point, all I can say is that the instructions that came with the nut are sadly lacking.
And I quote:
"Easy Instalation Instructions:
1. Remove tiller rod linkage nut
2. Pull tiller rod apart from steering rod
3. Remove locking nut from tilt tube
4. Wipe steering rod clean
5. Secure Steersman on exposed threads
6. Make sure grease fitting is accessible
7. Grease. Use hand-pumped grease gun only"
Nothing about removing the rod, or the engine, or the factory "O" ring.
Thanks again, LHG...I would have really botched it without your inside info. Now I have a good excuse to go buy another BFW.
Marsh

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Author	Topic: Steersman Nut Installation
Marsh	posted 07-09-2007 01:00 PM ET (US) I have read about the Steersman nut, and thought it to be a good idea, so I ordered one for my 2005 Mercury 115hp 4-stroke. Some of you may be familiar with this nut. It is fitted with a grease zerk, and replaces the large (1 inch I.D. on my engine) nut on the engine through which the steering rod moves. Looks simple enough to install, but when I attempt to remove the factory nut, it turns as if attached to a spring: after making one turn, when the wrench is removed in order to make another turn, the nut springs back to its original position. I halted my install until I learn more. Any advice? Thanks, Marsh
masterskiman	posted 07-09-2007 02:53 PM ET (US) It does NOT replace the factory nut...It threads onto the end of the existing tilt tube. There should be about 3/4 to 1" of thread there to screw the not onto. The factory nut you are trying to remove is more than likely turning the entire tilt tube and there may be a spring attached on the underside for the locking mech. Remove the attached steering arm, place nut over teleflex steering rod and screw onto the tilt tube. Lube the system and you should be done.
Marsh	posted 07-09-2007 03:23 PM ET (US) Masterskiman: What you say does make sense, except that there are no threads showing. Also, the instructions that accompanied the Steersman nut clearly say to replace the factory nut with the Steersman piece...both in words and pictures. Once again, I probably should have left well-enough alone...I hope I have done no damage thus far. I guess I am just a compulsive tinkerer. Marsh
adaco	posted 07-09-2007 03:45 PM ET (US) Marsh: I installed a Stearsman nut on my Yamaha 60 2 stroke. That definitely involved removing the factory nut and replacing it with the Stearsman, so I think you are on the right track. I think Stearsman even sells them in sets of two, one for each side of the arm. All I can suggest is that you contact either Mercury or Stearsman, or both. Most manufacturers websites seem to have a "Contact us" link, although they can be hard to find sometimes, unless you navigate around the site. Hope this helps. adaco
adaco	posted 07-09-2007 03:47 PM ET (US) Oops, that should read "Steersman." "Stearman" is the name of my favorite fishing spot. adaco
L H G	posted 07-09-2007 05:51 PM ET (US) Although well intended I'm sure, the information from "masterskiman" is incorrect. As a dedicated lifelong Merc owner, I am familiar with the Steersman nut installation on Mercs, use them extensively for both mechanical steering and side mount hydraulic cylinders, and I believe the original person here who first recommended this device. The Mercury tilt tube is different from other brands in that it has an O-ring gasket inside the tilt tube, at the steering ram exit side, that MUST be removed. This O-ring is the whole reason so many Merc's have steering ram freeze up. Although it is a fine solution when a new ring is installed, nobody EVER does it, since to replace the ring the steering has to be withdrawn from the tilt tube, and usually to do that the engine has to come off the boat. So the O-ring just wears out, and lets the contaminants in, resulting in eventual freeze-up. The Steersman nut easily solves this complex problem. First of all, it can be unscrewed and slid off the steering ram for easy service and REGULAR O-ring replacement intervals, keeping grease in and dirt out. In addition, when temporarily removed, allows the ram to be cleaned, and new grease worked back in (because the ORIGINAL MERC O-RING HAS BEEN REMOVED). It also created a "grease plug" behind the nut which further prevents a worn O-ring from letting the crud in. For mechanical steering rigs, the Steering ram must be unscrewed from the starboard engine side, and the ram withdrawn enough to access the O-ring inside the port end of the tilt tube. You MAY have to even pull the engine off the boat, but don't do that until you have the Steersman first installed and the factory nuts cracked loose! The O-ring sits in a machined groove. Removing this allows grease to move freely into the tilt tube, and prevents the squeeging action it would normally do, destroying any benefit of the Steersman. Then, using a PAIR of big wrenches, you have to break loose the big nuts on both end of the tilt tube, so the factory port nut can be discarded. This can be difficult! There is no spring tension, etc involved. The starboard side factory nut stays in place (where the mechanical steering threads on), but the Steersman replaces the port side nut. You need the two wrenches to tighten it back up. Once done, now you have a fully serviceable situation, with the Steersman O-ring replacing the original Merc tilt tube O-ring. Replace the Steersman O-ring, available at any hardware store, once a year. Shoot grease into the zerk as needed, but once in while unthread the Steersman, slid it off the ram, and work more clean grease back in. A simple job, and your steering will work easy from now on! See http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v429/lgoltz/Outrage%2021/DSCN1361.jpg a photo of my Steersman installation.
bigjohn1	posted 07-09-2007 06:39 PM ET (US) Marsh, since you and I have the same engine, I can tell you how I did it. LHG was the one who recommended it initially and I’m damned glad I listened to him because I never have steering problems even though I live in a harsh saltwater environment. First, as to the removal of the tilt tube o-ring, I had the dealer take care of that. The boat was already in the shop for unrelated maintenance so I had them raise the engine and remove the tilt tube o-ring at the same time. Once the o-ring is off, I can tell you to remove the factory nut and replace with the Steersman nut, I actually used three open-end wrenches at once. One was for the port ram nut, one for the starboard ram nut , and the third was to hold the steering cable nut. I started out initially using two wrenches (on the two ram nuts) but the steering cable began to rotate and I decided to place an additional wrench there to avoid a twisted steering cable. I placed a rubber mat across the threshold of the splash well (to avoid the wrenches dinging gel coat) and the starboard jam nut wrench and steering cable wrenches were held by my son as I removed the factory nut from the port side. The removal of the steering linkage/rod is self-explanatory so you won’t have any issues there. The entire process took me perhaps an hour or so but remember, I did not have to deal with removal of the tilt tube o-ring.
Marsh	posted 07-09-2007 09:35 PM ET (US) LHG and BigJohn: Thanks for the info. At this point, all I can say is that the instructions that came with the nut are sadly lacking. And I quote: "Easy Instalation Instructions: 1. Remove tiller rod linkage nut 2. Pull tiller rod apart from steering rod 3. Remove locking nut from tilt tube 4. Wipe steering rod clean 5. Secure Steersman on exposed threads 6. Make sure grease fitting is accessible 7. Grease. Use hand-pumped grease gun only" Nothing about removing the rod, or the engine, or the factory "O" ring. Thanks again, LHG...I would have really botched it without your inside info. Now I have a good excuse to go buy another BFW. Marsh