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Author Topic:   Transom Repair with Seacast

Vabeach1234 posted 07-17-2007 10:18 AM ET (US)
My 1985 Dell Quay Dory 13-footer is very similar to the 13-foot Boston Whaler boat, even foam filled. I have recently upgraded from a 100-lbs Mercury 25-HP to a 200-lbs Johnson 50-HP--slightly over powered but great when you have four people on board. The transom had always been in question, and, with the heavier outboard, it was time to redo the transom. I've decided to use Seacast for the repair. Here's some picture of what I've done so far.
http://www.putfile.com/vabeach1234/images/128054
I've ordered the Seacast and awaiting its arrival. I'll make sure to keep you updated.
There was a lot of wood in the transom. My boat had a thin layer of plywood against the outer skin that extended out to the the transom eyes. Then two thicker sheets where the motor is mounted. At the base where the inner rail steps at the motor well there were two wedged pieces of wood placed next to each other that extended down just past the drain. It looks like they were cut from a 2 x 8. At each transom eye there was a beveled piece of wood that looked like it originally was a 2 x 4.
Again, it's not a Boston Whaler boat, but I figured I'd pass on what I have decovered.
Ken
wwbach posted 07-17-2007 11:11 PM ET (US)
http://www.putfile.com/vabeach1234/images/128054
Nice work Ken. I have a few questions.
How did you cut the top? Circular saw?
How much time do you have into cutting the top out and getting the wood out?
Is that water remaining in the bottom of the transom?
I am a little surprised that the wood does not seem to have been encapsulated in fiberglass cloth. It seems like the wood was exposed to the foam on either side. Is this right or am I mis-interpreting the pictures? I wonder if I will face the same within the transom of my Outrage.m
Thanks for posting. Keep us updated if you wouldn't mind.
-- Bud
Vabeach1234 posted 07-18-2007 07:24 AM ET (US)
Thanks Bud but I'm still not out of the woods yet.
I cut the cap with a cordless circular saw. That was the easiest part of the whole project.
It took me 2 days to get all the wood out. The wetter and more rotted the wood, the easier it is. The wood at the top of the transom was easy to get out. The lower wood still had some strength to it so the chainsaw helped a lot. Seacast recommended drilling holes 1 inch apart along the top of the transom. I did not need to do that seeing how the wood was so wet at the top.
My original intent was to replace only the wood part of the transom with seacast, but now I'm debating weather to remove the rest of the foam in the transom and replace using seacast along the entire transom. Currently I have about 15 inches on either side of where I cut the cap off of foam remaining in the transom. I sent an email to Seacast but haven't gotten a response yet. I plan on calling them today.
I have the boat "Bow high" and twice a day I shop vac out a little bit of water that settles in the void I created. Each day it's less and less. But the pictures don't show any water in the transom, I vacuumed it out before I took the pictures.
The wood that I removed didn't have any mat on it. It was plywood that was adhered to each other with some sort of white resin. I'm sure Whaler didn't follow this practice, after all we are talking about a Dell Quay, similar but not the same.
I'll keep posting on my progress when I start making some again.
Ken
Vabeach1234 posted 07-19-2007 03:51 PM ET (US)
Okay,
I talked with Bobbi at Seacast. It was recommended that I remove the foam at least 1 foot past where the original transom wood stopped on each side. This pretty much puts me out to the sides of the boat. What i did find interesting is that I need to attach dry fiberglass mat to the exposed foam. The seacast is a core material and must be encapsulated in fiberglass. When the seacast is poured, it will wet out the fiberglass mat. This may be a little tricky to do so I might have to remove more of the cap to install the mat. Also, if the transom gets wider, it was recommended that I only remove foam that is equivalent to the original thickness of the wood in the transom. My transom gets thicker at the base (about 3 inches as opposed to 1 1/2" thick at the top. So as long as I can maintain 1 1/2" cavity down the transom and place dry mat against the exposed foam it will work.
Bobbi did recommend the option of screwing or tacking the mat to the foam from the exterior.
I think I need smaller hands. This is gonna be fun. Be prepared to see pictures of scratched/bloodied up hands. They are still healing from when I started all this work.
Ken
Binkie posted 07-19-2007 06:55 PM ET (US)
Maybe a paint stick for a 5 gallon bucket of paint would be of help to push the glass mat in place. Do you have any small children. LOL
Rich

wwbach posted 07-19-2007 10:10 PM ET (US)
How about if you shaped a piece of wood to create a dam between the foam and the seacast? You could get it to just the right size, epoxy it to seal it, wet out fiberglass cloth, wrap the wood and stick it in so it would cure into the transom. The down side is you'd be putting wood back in... Just an idea for you. Good luck. -- Bud
Vabeach1234 posted 07-19-2007 11:10 PM ET (US)
Well I've removed all the foam from within 2" of the outer transom skin all across the transom. I left some on the inner skin. See new pictures:
http://www.putfile.com/vabeach1234/images/128054
As for placing fiberglass mat between the foam and seacast this is what I plan to do.
I'll lower the bow of the boat as low as possible. This should make the transom close to vertical. I may even put jacks under the axle to achieve a vertical transom. Then, I'll place one large fiberglass mat in the transom against the inner skin. The inner skin still has some foam attached to it. I'll have 4 to 6 inches of fiberglass mat skicking out over the transom. When I pour the seacast, the fiberglass mat should be pushed up against the foam and the inner skin. The seacast should wet out the fiberglass mat and then adhere to the foam and inner skin. I'll then tuck the excess over the cap like the seacast manaul says to. Do you guys see anything wrong with this approach?
Thanks for all the input guys. I know this boat isn't a whaler but is pretty damn close. I figure this procedure should apply to the 13' whalers. I've gotten a lot from this site, I figured I should give some back.
Ken
Einar posted 07-22-2007 03:16 PM ET (US)
So.... any updates on this? I am on the edge of my seat waiting for the results of the pour.
Al
Vabeach1234 posted 07-22-2007 07:57 PM ET (US)
No updates. I'm still waiting for the Seacast to be delivered. Hopefully it will be delivered early this week. I'll make sure to take some pictures and keep you guys updated.
Ken
Vabeach1234 posted 07-23-2007 10:50 AM ET (US)
Well, for all those interested. The people at seacast think that my idea for placing the fiberglass mat against the inner skin of the transom (see my post on 7-19-07) is a good plan.
They also told me that my seacast should go out for delivery today, Monday and it will take a couple days to get here (Virginia). I ordered it on 7-15. That's over a week for them to ship it. They told me that they are backed up because it's summer time and everyone's working on their boats.
Anyways. I'll make sure I document my progress.
Ken
cotton posted 07-23-2007 08:11 PM ET (US)
Get some help with the pour. Two hands are not enough. Also don't add too much fiber or it will be too thick to reach the bottom corners. Also a rubber mallet is helpful to get it to settle. Also, a tamping stick to help work it down. Make more than one pour. I made a highly successful Seacast repair on both the transom and some stringers on a 20'offshore boat but learned a few things along the way. Excellent results and would do it again. Hope this helps. Cotton
Vabeach1234 posted 07-23-2007 08:59 PM ET (US)
Thanks Cotton.
You have some good pointers there. I guess I really need to start taking inventory of what I'll need when pouring. I'll definitely incorporate all of the things you mentioned. Thanks again.
Ken
Vabeach1234 posted 07-23-2007 08:59 PM ET (US)
Thanks Cotton.
You have some good pointers there. I guess I really need to start taking inventory of what I'll need when pouring. I'll definitely incorporate all of the things you mentioned. Thanks again.
Ken
Newtauk1 posted 07-24-2007 02:31 AM ET (US)
how about a video of the repair? Seacast offers one on their web site.
Vabeach1234 posted 07-24-2007 08:22 AM ET (US)
A video! Man, ya'll are demanding. Just kidding. The only video equipment I have is my digital camera, so I don't think the quality will be that good in video mode. I'll try to take a short video of when the seacast is being poured into the transom that way you guys can see how flowable it is.
I guess I'll have to get the wife involved, she can be in charge of video production.
Ken
Martino posted 07-24-2007 06:34 PM ET (US)
No, no. I think Newtauk is saying that Seacast offers an instructional video on their website. But now that you offered, there are many of us that would like to see the video of your repair! Last time I saw a DelQuay was over 20 years ago in the Keys. They were always regarded very highly. Good luck with your project.
Vabeach1234 posted 07-28-2007 01:19 AM ET (US)
Well, I have started pouring the first pour into the transom of my Dell Quay 13'. I've added some additional pictures to my putfile account. Check it out:
http://www.putfile.com/vabeach1234/images/128054
I also added a video, it's big so be prepared. Here's the address to that:
http://media.putfile.com/Seacast---First-Pour---Dell-Quay-13-Transom-Repair
The first pour I think I was a little intimated by the amount of fiberglass strains that I was puting in. It started to thicken up but was still flowable. If I could do it again, I'd put more strains in than I did. It looks like 2 five gallon buckets aren't going to do it. I'll need to order more. The transom gets too thick at the bottom because of all the foam I had to remove.
As for laying the fiberglass mat against the inner skin, well that couldn't have worked better. The seacast pushed the mat right up against the existing fiberglass and foam. As for the flowablity of the seacast. I poured it in on the port side of the boat and it made it all the way over to the starboard side and leveled out. Tapping on the hull helped push some air bubbles to the top. So far I definitely recommend this product. I think the hardest part is going to be capping the transom and making it look right.
I'll keep you guys updated. Second pour to come soon with more pictures. I'm pretty sure I'll need to order more seacast before I can fold the fiberglass mat over to cap and tuck it in.
Ken
Binkie posted 07-28-2007 08:17 AM ET (US)
Is it ok to have a cold jount between pours? How will you link the two pours together? Have you discussed this with Seacast?
rich
Binkie posted 07-28-2007 08:19 AM ET (US)
typo-- jount should be joint.
Vabeach1234 posted 07-28-2007 08:30 AM ET (US)
In the instructions it states:
Mix one bucket, pour and wait at least 45 minutes (until the peak of the exothermic reaction) before mixing and pouring the next bucket. Repeat this process as necessary. If the temperature is above 75 degrees, wait until the poured Seacast is cool enough to touch before pouring.
Apparently, seacast bonds to itself.
Ken
Binkie posted 07-28-2007 11:16 AM ET (US)
I guess I just assumed that, my only experience is in pouring concrete and cold joints are to be avoided, especially in structural areas.
Rich
Vabeach1234 posted 08-01-2007 09:39 PM ET (US)
Well I have finished pouring the seacast. 3 pours !$!$! I wrapped the fiberglass mat over the cap and tucked it at the outer skin as suggested by seacast. Now, I plan to place resin filler with fiberglass strains between the top of the seacast and the original cap. I cut the cap off in four sections so I'll put them back one at a time. After the filler sets and the cap is reattached to the top of the transom, I'll grind down all the joints/saw cuts and the place 3 mats of fiber glass over the joint. Then come back and sand and then paint. Here's the link again.
http://www.putfile.com/vabeach1234/images/128054
Ken
Vabeach1234 posted 08-22-2007 09:50 PM ET (US)
Well, it's done. I've finished the fiberglass work and painted the affected area. So far I've pulled a 180lb guy on a tube with no problem what so ever. No transom cracks and the transom sounds solid when you tap on it. In fact, it's so solid that I screwed the motor clamps down as tight as I could with ut the inner transom gelcoat cracking, what a difference from before. I'm very pleased with the out come and would recommend Seacast to anyone. Unfortuantely, because I removed too much of the of the inner foam I had to use 2-3/4 five gallon buckets. That's a lot for a 13' boat, $$$$. But I figure I spent close to $800. That's better than the shop doing it for more than twice that.

Oh, the only thing I'm disappointed in is my crappy paint job. I plan on sanding it down this winter and doing it right. The night I was painting I had a spot light behind the boat. I painted the rear of the transom and then started on the inner face of the transom in the motor well. When I finished the inner face, I stepped back to admire my work and found at least 40 bugs had embedded themselves into the paint. I was so pissed I whiped them off and applied a second coat and said forget it, I'm going boating.
If you have any questions, I'd be happy to answer them.
Check out the final pictures:
http://www.putfile.com/vabeach1234/images/128054
Ken
Chesapeake, VA
RickS posted 08-23-2007 09:47 AM ET (US)
I did a similar repair on a 9' Boston Whaler last year and it has held up great. http://rshelton.photosite.com/album3/
phillnjack posted 07-30-2012 06:34 PM ET (US)
is this boat still going good with the seacast transom ?
does the seacast weigh a lot ?
phillnjack posted 03-11-2013 08:48 PM ET (US)
How much did the seacast add to the boat ?
phillnjack posted 03-11-2013 08:52 PM ET (US)
I meant to write how much weight did the seacast add to the boat.
is it a lot more weight to the transom than the original wood ?
huckelberry145 posted 03-12-2013 07:55 AM ET (US)
Phillinjack, this is an old post and the owner might not check in much anymore but I will tell you that i used Nida Bond and love it. The process was doable for a novice like me and it doesn't add that much more weight, about 20 lbs. per my calculations in my classic 15'.

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Author	Topic: Transom Repair with Seacast
Vabeach1234	posted 07-17-2007 10:18 AM ET (US) My 1985 Dell Quay Dory 13-footer is very similar to the 13-foot Boston Whaler boat, even foam filled. I have recently upgraded from a 100-lbs Mercury 25-HP to a 200-lbs Johnson 50-HP--slightly over powered but great when you have four people on board. The transom had always been in question, and, with the heavier outboard, it was time to redo the transom. I've decided to use Seacast for the repair. Here's some picture of what I've done so far. http://www.putfile.com/vabeach1234/images/128054 I've ordered the Seacast and awaiting its arrival. I'll make sure to keep you updated. There was a lot of wood in the transom. My boat had a thin layer of plywood against the outer skin that extended out to the the transom eyes. Then two thicker sheets where the motor is mounted. At the base where the inner rail steps at the motor well there were two wedged pieces of wood placed next to each other that extended down just past the drain. It looks like they were cut from a 2 x 8. At each transom eye there was a beveled piece of wood that looked like it originally was a 2 x 4. Again, it's not a Boston Whaler boat, but I figured I'd pass on what I have decovered. Ken
wwbach	posted 07-17-2007 11:11 PM ET (US) http://www.putfile.com/vabeach1234/images/128054 Nice work Ken. I have a few questions. How did you cut the top? Circular saw? How much time do you have into cutting the top out and getting the wood out? Is that water remaining in the bottom of the transom? I am a little surprised that the wood does not seem to have been encapsulated in fiberglass cloth. It seems like the wood was exposed to the foam on either side. Is this right or am I mis-interpreting the pictures? I wonder if I will face the same within the transom of my Outrage.m Thanks for posting. Keep us updated if you wouldn't mind. -- Bud
Vabeach1234	posted 07-18-2007 07:24 AM ET (US) Thanks Bud but I'm still not out of the woods yet. I cut the cap with a cordless circular saw. That was the easiest part of the whole project. It took me 2 days to get all the wood out. The wetter and more rotted the wood, the easier it is. The wood at the top of the transom was easy to get out. The lower wood still had some strength to it so the chainsaw helped a lot. Seacast recommended drilling holes 1 inch apart along the top of the transom. I did not need to do that seeing how the wood was so wet at the top. My original intent was to replace only the wood part of the transom with seacast, but now I'm debating weather to remove the rest of the foam in the transom and replace using seacast along the entire transom. Currently I have about 15 inches on either side of where I cut the cap off of foam remaining in the transom. I sent an email to Seacast but haven't gotten a response yet. I plan on calling them today. I have the boat "Bow high" and twice a day I shop vac out a little bit of water that settles in the void I created. Each day it's less and less. But the pictures don't show any water in the transom, I vacuumed it out before I took the pictures. The wood that I removed didn't have any mat on it. It was plywood that was adhered to each other with some sort of white resin. I'm sure Whaler didn't follow this practice, after all we are talking about a Dell Quay, similar but not the same. I'll keep posting on my progress when I start making some again. Ken
Vabeach1234	posted 07-19-2007 03:51 PM ET (US) Okay, I talked with Bobbi at Seacast. It was recommended that I remove the foam at least 1 foot past where the original transom wood stopped on each side. This pretty much puts me out to the sides of the boat. What i did find interesting is that I need to attach dry fiberglass mat to the exposed foam. The seacast is a core material and must be encapsulated in fiberglass. When the seacast is poured, it will wet out the fiberglass mat. This may be a little tricky to do so I might have to remove more of the cap to install the mat. Also, if the transom gets wider, it was recommended that I only remove foam that is equivalent to the original thickness of the wood in the transom. My transom gets thicker at the base (about 3 inches as opposed to 1 1/2" thick at the top. So as long as I can maintain 1 1/2" cavity down the transom and place dry mat against the exposed foam it will work. Bobbi did recommend the option of screwing or tacking the mat to the foam from the exterior. I think I need smaller hands. This is gonna be fun. Be prepared to see pictures of scratched/bloodied up hands. They are still healing from when I started all this work. Ken
Binkie	posted 07-19-2007 06:55 PM ET (US) Maybe a paint stick for a 5 gallon bucket of paint would be of help to push the glass mat in place. Do you have any small children. LOL Rich
wwbach	posted 07-19-2007 10:10 PM ET (US) How about if you shaped a piece of wood to create a dam between the foam and the seacast? You could get it to just the right size, epoxy it to seal it, wet out fiberglass cloth, wrap the wood and stick it in so it would cure into the transom. The down side is you'd be putting wood back in... Just an idea for you. Good luck. -- Bud
Vabeach1234	posted 07-19-2007 11:10 PM ET (US) Well I've removed all the foam from within 2" of the outer transom skin all across the transom. I left some on the inner skin. See new pictures: http://www.putfile.com/vabeach1234/images/128054 As for placing fiberglass mat between the foam and seacast this is what I plan to do. I'll lower the bow of the boat as low as possible. This should make the transom close to vertical. I may even put jacks under the axle to achieve a vertical transom. Then, I'll place one large fiberglass mat in the transom against the inner skin. The inner skin still has some foam attached to it. I'll have 4 to 6 inches of fiberglass mat skicking out over the transom. When I pour the seacast, the fiberglass mat should be pushed up against the foam and the inner skin. The seacast should wet out the fiberglass mat and then adhere to the foam and inner skin. I'll then tuck the excess over the cap like the seacast manaul says to. Do you guys see anything wrong with this approach? Thanks for all the input guys. I know this boat isn't a whaler but is pretty damn close. I figure this procedure should apply to the 13' whalers. I've gotten a lot from this site, I figured I should give some back. Ken
Einar	posted 07-22-2007 03:16 PM ET (US) So.... any updates on this? I am on the edge of my seat waiting for the results of the pour. Al
Vabeach1234	posted 07-22-2007 07:57 PM ET (US) No updates. I'm still waiting for the Seacast to be delivered. Hopefully it will be delivered early this week. I'll make sure to take some pictures and keep you guys updated. Ken
Vabeach1234	posted 07-23-2007 10:50 AM ET (US) Well, for all those interested. The people at seacast think that my idea for placing the fiberglass mat against the inner skin of the transom (see my post on 7-19-07) is a good plan. They also told me that my seacast should go out for delivery today, Monday and it will take a couple days to get here (Virginia). I ordered it on 7-15. That's over a week for them to ship it. They told me that they are backed up because it's summer time and everyone's working on their boats. Anyways. I'll make sure I document my progress. Ken
cotton	posted 07-23-2007 08:11 PM ET (US) Get some help with the pour. Two hands are not enough. Also don't add too much fiber or it will be too thick to reach the bottom corners. Also a rubber mallet is helpful to get it to settle. Also, a tamping stick to help work it down. Make more than one pour. I made a highly successful Seacast repair on both the transom and some stringers on a 20'offshore boat but learned a few things along the way. Excellent results and would do it again. Hope this helps. Cotton
Vabeach1234	posted 07-23-2007 08:59 PM ET (US) Thanks Cotton. You have some good pointers there. I guess I really need to start taking inventory of what I'll need when pouring. I'll definitely incorporate all of the things you mentioned. Thanks again. Ken
Vabeach1234	posted 07-23-2007 08:59 PM ET (US) Thanks Cotton. You have some good pointers there. I guess I really need to start taking inventory of what I'll need when pouring. I'll definitely incorporate all of the things you mentioned. Thanks again. Ken
Newtauk1	posted 07-24-2007 02:31 AM ET (US) how about a video of the repair? Seacast offers one on their web site.
Vabeach1234	posted 07-24-2007 08:22 AM ET (US) A video! Man, ya'll are demanding. Just kidding. The only video equipment I have is my digital camera, so I don't think the quality will be that good in video mode. I'll try to take a short video of when the seacast is being poured into the transom that way you guys can see how flowable it is. I guess I'll have to get the wife involved, she can be in charge of video production. Ken
Martino	posted 07-24-2007 06:34 PM ET (US) No, no. I think Newtauk is saying that Seacast offers an instructional video on their website. But now that you offered, there are many of us that would like to see the video of your repair! Last time I saw a DelQuay was over 20 years ago in the Keys. They were always regarded very highly. Good luck with your project.
Vabeach1234	posted 07-28-2007 01:19 AM ET (US) Well, I have started pouring the first pour into the transom of my Dell Quay 13'. I've added some additional pictures to my putfile account. Check it out: http://www.putfile.com/vabeach1234/images/128054 I also added a video, it's big so be prepared. Here's the address to that: http://media.putfile.com/Seacast---First-Pour---Dell-Quay-13-Transom-Repair The first pour I think I was a little intimated by the amount of fiberglass strains that I was puting in. It started to thicken up but was still flowable. If I could do it again, I'd put more strains in than I did. It looks like 2 five gallon buckets aren't going to do it. I'll need to order more. The transom gets too thick at the bottom because of all the foam I had to remove. As for laying the fiberglass mat against the inner skin, well that couldn't have worked better. The seacast pushed the mat right up against the existing fiberglass and foam. As for the flowablity of the seacast. I poured it in on the port side of the boat and it made it all the way over to the starboard side and leveled out. Tapping on the hull helped push some air bubbles to the top. So far I definitely recommend this product. I think the hardest part is going to be capping the transom and making it look right. I'll keep you guys updated. Second pour to come soon with more pictures. I'm pretty sure I'll need to order more seacast before I can fold the fiberglass mat over to cap and tuck it in. Ken
Binkie	posted 07-28-2007 08:17 AM ET (US) Is it ok to have a cold jount between pours? How will you link the two pours together? Have you discussed this with Seacast? rich
Binkie	posted 07-28-2007 08:19 AM ET (US) typo-- jount should be joint.
Vabeach1234	posted 07-28-2007 08:30 AM ET (US) In the instructions it states: Mix one bucket, pour and wait at least 45 minutes (until the peak of the exothermic reaction) before mixing and pouring the next bucket. Repeat this process as necessary. If the temperature is above 75 degrees, wait until the poured Seacast is cool enough to touch before pouring. Apparently, seacast bonds to itself. Ken
Binkie	posted 07-28-2007 11:16 AM ET (US) I guess I just assumed that, my only experience is in pouring concrete and cold joints are to be avoided, especially in structural areas. Rich
Vabeach1234	posted 08-01-2007 09:39 PM ET (US) Well I have finished pouring the seacast. 3 pours !$!$! I wrapped the fiberglass mat over the cap and tucked it at the outer skin as suggested by seacast. Now, I plan to place resin filler with fiberglass strains between the top of the seacast and the original cap. I cut the cap off in four sections so I'll put them back one at a time. After the filler sets and the cap is reattached to the top of the transom, I'll grind down all the joints/saw cuts and the place 3 mats of fiber glass over the joint. Then come back and sand and then paint. Here's the link again. http://www.putfile.com/vabeach1234/images/128054 Ken
Vabeach1234	posted 08-22-2007 09:50 PM ET (US) Well, it's done. I've finished the fiberglass work and painted the affected area. So far I've pulled a 180lb guy on a tube with no problem what so ever. No transom cracks and the transom sounds solid when you tap on it. In fact, it's so solid that I screwed the motor clamps down as tight as I could with ut the inner transom gelcoat cracking, what a difference from before. I'm very pleased with the out come and would recommend Seacast to anyone. Unfortuantely, because I removed too much of the of the inner foam I had to use 2-3/4 five gallon buckets. That's a lot for a 13' boat, $$$$. But I figure I spent close to $800. That's better than the shop doing it for more than twice that. Oh, the only thing I'm disappointed in is my crappy paint job. I plan on sanding it down this winter and doing it right. The night I was painting I had a spot light behind the boat. I painted the rear of the transom and then started on the inner face of the transom in the motor well. When I finished the inner face, I stepped back to admire my work and found at least 40 bugs had embedded themselves into the paint. I was so pissed I whiped them off and applied a second coat and said forget it, I'm going boating. If you have any questions, I'd be happy to answer them. Check out the final pictures: http://www.putfile.com/vabeach1234/images/128054 Ken Chesapeake, VA
RickS	posted 08-23-2007 09:47 AM ET (US) I did a similar repair on a 9' Boston Whaler last year and it has held up great. http://rshelton.photosite.com/album3/
phillnjack	posted 07-30-2012 06:34 PM ET (US) is this boat still going good with the seacast transom ? does the seacast weigh a lot ?
phillnjack	posted 03-11-2013 08:48 PM ET (US) How much did the seacast add to the boat ?
phillnjack	posted 03-11-2013 08:52 PM ET (US) I meant to write how much weight did the seacast add to the boat. is it a lot more weight to the transom than the original wood ?
huckelberry145	posted 03-12-2013 07:55 AM ET (US) Phillinjack, this is an old post and the owner might not check in much anymore but I will tell you that i used Nida Bond and love it. The process was doable for a novice like me and it doesn't add that much more weight, about 20 lbs. per my calculations in my classic 15'.