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Author Topic:   Reproducing Non Skid Pattern

jay18 posted 10-12-2007 03:39 PM ET (US)
[Seeks] the best way to reproduce the original non-skid pattern on a classic outrage. I am in the midst of some spider crack filling in on the bow areas, and want to put back the original (or close to) pattern after the gelcoat has been sprayed. My fist thought is to use a patch kit instead of spraying gelcoat because I could then work with a putty consitency instead of a paint consistency. I also thought about using the head of a plain old Estwing hammer that is textured almost identical to the non skid, and with wax paper in place, just giving it a slight impression with the hammer head.
Any input is always appreciated.

sternorama posted 10-12-2007 04:31 PM ET (US)
I heard about someone using playdough to make a dam around a piece of good condition non-skid, then splashing that area and using the splash as a mold to reproduce the pattern. No, I have not tried this...
AtoZ posted 10-12-2007 07:27 PM ET (US)
Find a small area of non-skid that is not worn, spread a thin coat of vasoline on it, make a small dam with play dough ot plumbers putty, fill the dam with silicone caulk to about 1/4 in. After it has set, it should pull up in one piece. Press it down on fresh gelcoat, then pull off.
I did this years ago on my sailboat. worked fine.
jay18 posted 10-12-2007 08:32 PM ET (US)
Thanks. I think I will try that.
Jay
fno posted 10-13-2007 08:17 PM ET (US)
Jay, check out www.minicraft.com Look on the site for Gibco Flex-Mold. They have different patterns for non-skid and the material does not react with gel coat.
Plotman posted 10-14-2007 04:26 PM ET (US)
There is no gibco mold that matches the whaler non-skid.
I have used silicone mold making material from smooth-on.com to repair the pattern.
Jerry Townsend posted 10-15-2007 12:11 AM ET (US)
Hey guys - just thinking, and it might not work - but what about letting the gel-coat start to stiffen up and then use a using a stiff-bristle brush/broom and make one stroke in one direction and another stroke at 90 degrees to the first stroke. ------ Jerry/Idaho
Plotman posted 10-15-2007 02:17 PM ET (US)
If you pull a mold of the non-skid off of a whaler, you will see that what is on the boat is a negative of a fairly familiar basket weave pattern.
If you want to do it right, make a mold and follow the west system directions.
David
jay18 posted 10-17-2007 11:03 AM ET (US)
Plotman-
When you advise to follow the West System directions, where are you getting these directions from? I am familiar with West, but not aware of how to use to reproduce the nonskid..
Tanks
JAy
Plotman posted 10-17-2007 11:25 AM ET (US)
Jay -
http://www.westsystem.com/ewmag/22/nonskid.html .
This covers how to use gibco mold to make the repair, but it works equally well if you make a mold from an undamaged section of the non-skid.
I used the smooth-sil in a 50 shore hardness and it worked well, but you need to degas the silicone in a vacuum pot to get all the little bubbles out. Were I doing it again, I would use one of their reoflex urethanes because there is no degassing required. smooth-on.com .
Once you have your mold, proceed just as you would with the gibco mold. The scariest part is going after the existing non-skid with a router, but it is the key to a good repair. That an mold release to keep the ooze-out gelocat from sticking to the good non-skid.
I hope to be able to post some start-to-finish pictures soon.
David
Barnacle Bob posted 10-17-2007 11:27 AM ET (US)
I read once about using the flat candle wax packs you buy in the supermarket. Take the wax(slightly warm) make impression of good area and then transfer to bad area.
Binkie posted 10-17-2007 12:34 PM ET (US)
If you do make a mold from your existing floor, how do you line the new mold up on the existing nonskid floor, when covering a filled hole, so the new pattern lines up with old. I would think if it is not done perfectly and your new non skid did not match or align perfectly, the result would be worse looking than just a filled hole. I had over 30 screw holes and numerous gelcoat cracks in my non skid floor in my 13 footer. I couldn't`t figure out how to do a perfect job, so I covered all of the nonskid with 1.5oz. mat saturated with polyester resin. I rolled in the resin with a small foam roller, used as little resin as possible, only enough to saturate the mat, then trimmed off the excess with a dremel and small cutoff wheel. I lost my diamond pattern, but still have a somewhat non skid finish. The Awlgrip paint makes it pretty slick though, but it makes the original non skid slick too.

rich
Plotman posted 10-17-2007 03:00 PM ET (US)
You can feel the mold "lock down" on the original non-skid pattern when you move it around slightly. It is very obvious.
You then tape down one side securely and roll the mold back to expose the area you want to fix.
When you pour in the liquid gel and then roll the mold down, you have the ability to wiggle things to make sure that the mold is lined up properly with the pattern.
If you practice with a dry run, it all becomes obvious.

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Author	Topic: Reproducing Non Skid Pattern
jay18	posted 10-12-2007 03:39 PM ET (US) [Seeks] the best way to reproduce the original non-skid pattern on a classic outrage. I am in the midst of some spider crack filling in on the bow areas, and want to put back the original (or close to) pattern after the gelcoat has been sprayed. My fist thought is to use a patch kit instead of spraying gelcoat because I could then work with a putty consitency instead of a paint consistency. I also thought about using the head of a plain old Estwing hammer that is textured almost identical to the non skid, and with wax paper in place, just giving it a slight impression with the hammer head. Any input is always appreciated.
sternorama	posted 10-12-2007 04:31 PM ET (US) I heard about someone using playdough to make a dam around a piece of good condition non-skid, then splashing that area and using the splash as a mold to reproduce the pattern. No, I have not tried this...
AtoZ	posted 10-12-2007 07:27 PM ET (US) Find a small area of non-skid that is not worn, spread a thin coat of vasoline on it, make a small dam with play dough ot plumbers putty, fill the dam with silicone caulk to about 1/4 in. After it has set, it should pull up in one piece. Press it down on fresh gelcoat, then pull off. I did this years ago on my sailboat. worked fine.
jay18	posted 10-12-2007 08:32 PM ET (US) Thanks. I think I will try that. Jay
fno	posted 10-13-2007 08:17 PM ET (US) Jay, check out www.minicraft.com Look on the site for Gibco Flex-Mold. They have different patterns for non-skid and the material does not react with gel coat.
Plotman	posted 10-14-2007 04:26 PM ET (US) There is no gibco mold that matches the whaler non-skid. I have used silicone mold making material from smooth-on.com to repair the pattern.
Jerry Townsend	posted 10-15-2007 12:11 AM ET (US) Hey guys - just thinking, and it might not work - but what about letting the gel-coat start to stiffen up and then use a using a stiff-bristle brush/broom and make one stroke in one direction and another stroke at 90 degrees to the first stroke. ------ Jerry/Idaho
Plotman	posted 10-15-2007 02:17 PM ET (US) If you pull a mold of the non-skid off of a whaler, you will see that what is on the boat is a negative of a fairly familiar basket weave pattern. If you want to do it right, make a mold and follow the west system directions. David
jay18	posted 10-17-2007 11:03 AM ET (US) Plotman- When you advise to follow the West System directions, where are you getting these directions from? I am familiar with West, but not aware of how to use to reproduce the nonskid.. Tanks JAy
Plotman	posted 10-17-2007 11:25 AM ET (US) Jay - http://www.westsystem.com/ewmag/22/nonskid.html . This covers how to use gibco mold to make the repair, but it works equally well if you make a mold from an undamaged section of the non-skid. I used the smooth-sil in a 50 shore hardness and it worked well, but you need to degas the silicone in a vacuum pot to get all the little bubbles out. Were I doing it again, I would use one of their reoflex urethanes because there is no degassing required. smooth-on.com . Once you have your mold, proceed just as you would with the gibco mold. The scariest part is going after the existing non-skid with a router, but it is the key to a good repair. That an mold release to keep the ooze-out gelocat from sticking to the good non-skid. I hope to be able to post some start-to-finish pictures soon. David
Barnacle Bob	posted 10-17-2007 11:27 AM ET (US) I read once about using the flat candle wax packs you buy in the supermarket. Take the wax(slightly warm) make impression of good area and then transfer to bad area.
Binkie	posted 10-17-2007 12:34 PM ET (US) If you do make a mold from your existing floor, how do you line the new mold up on the existing nonskid floor, when covering a filled hole, so the new pattern lines up with old. I would think if it is not done perfectly and your new non skid did not match or align perfectly, the result would be worse looking than just a filled hole. I had over 30 screw holes and numerous gelcoat cracks in my non skid floor in my 13 footer. I couldn't`t figure out how to do a perfect job, so I covered all of the nonskid with 1.5oz. mat saturated with polyester resin. I rolled in the resin with a small foam roller, used as little resin as possible, only enough to saturate the mat, then trimmed off the excess with a dremel and small cutoff wheel. I lost my diamond pattern, but still have a somewhat non skid finish. The Awlgrip paint makes it pretty slick though, but it makes the original non skid slick too. rich
Plotman	posted 10-17-2007 03:00 PM ET (US) You can feel the mold "lock down" on the original non-skid pattern when you move it around slightly. It is very obvious. You then tape down one side securely and roll the mold back to expose the area you want to fix. When you pour in the liquid gel and then roll the mold down, you have the ability to wiggle things to make sure that the mold is lined up properly with the pattern. If you practice with a dry run, it all becomes obvious.