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Author Topic:   Trailer setup for 1971 Outrage

jamesmylesmcp posted 06-20-2008 03:05 PM ET (US)
Currently sitting in my driveway is a new Aluminium I-beam tandem bunk trailer,no keel rollers as of yet.The question is where should the bunks be positioned to meet the hull,and how many keel rollers are needed if any ? This addition will greatly increase my range this summer,can't wait to head East,way East! Interesting to me was Connecticut law now requires brakes on all axles I didn't expect this but it's a nice feeling,the brakes are fitted with a flush system that pours water via a garden hose fitting into the brake housings,neat,we'll see how effective it is in time.
L H G posted 06-20-2008 03:13 PM ET (US)
Jim, here is the trailer under my Ribside, a Continental keel roller model that fits it like it was specially designed for the boat. JDJET has the same one under his 21 Revenge.
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v429/lgoltz/Outrage%2021/?action=view& current=Scan0042.jpg
Maybe this will help you with bunk and roller placement.
I really hate to say it, but I think drum brakes are a real mistake based on 20 years of my experience. I keep hearing that those flushing systems don't work at all. At some point you WILL be converting to discs.
jamesmylesmcp posted 06-20-2008 03:36 PM ET (US)
Larry,thanks for the help ! The deal was good ,those are the brakes !(haha) Boat dealers who catch a visual of a wad of jack now adays are willing to talk rather than let you walk.Jim
HAPPYJIM posted 06-20-2008 04:33 PM ET (US)
Larry, I see you have double rollers on each horizontal bar. Is that necessary or can the rollers be installed as singles?
I enjoy looking at pics of your boats no matter how many times I view them.
L H G posted 06-20-2008 05:44 PM ET (US)
Jim - Single rollers work on each cross member, but I like the doubles, since each roller carries so little load that the boats just roll on and off the trailer with no effort at all. No stress on the hull at bow eye, and none on the winch.
jamesmylesmcp posted 06-20-2008 06:22 PM ET (US)
Larry, I plan to put the boat on the bunks then fit the keel rollers,I assume they support the keel and the bunks less of the weight.Would I be correct to adjust keel rollers with a scissor jack lifting to a point of weight bearing ?
L H G posted 06-20-2008 07:34 PM ET (US)
Jim, I do just the opposite. First I set the keel rollers with the bunks dropped down to not touch the hull. I use a string to set all keel rollers in a straight line. Then I snug the bunks up just enough to stabilize the hull on the trailer. Basically, there is no weight on the bunks at all.
You might also want to contact Don McIntyre, who uses a full bunk trailer (4 bunks I think) under his 21 smoothside.
He completely submerses the trailer for launching and retrieval, and drives it on and off. It seems to work fine.
Mine originally came on an all bunk trailer, and was impossible to launch and load, as I couldn't get the trailer in far enough most of the time. I got rid of it. I don't need to bury the trailer to use mine, which I prefer. And a lot of places don't allow drive-ons. You can also spin prop hubs in drive-on conditions (which I have done).
jamesmylesmcp posted 06-20-2008 07:47 PM ET (US)
Thanks,I got it.
dfmcintyre posted 06-21-2008 09:04 PM ET (US)
Jim -
Like Larry said, mine is four bunked, no rollers (well, roller at stern, that is mounted so low it's useless). It was built with no adjustment in the bunks from the factory, Eagle Trailer here in Michigan.
When launching, I allow the trailer in slightly less then when retrieving. Since I silicone the bunks twice a season, it pretty much slides off. When retrieving, I've found that it works best to have only about the first 1/4 of the bunks awash and it slides up to within about three feet of the bow nose. I'll leave it in dead forward idle to keep it from sliding down the bunks and winch in the two-three feet. Jump back in, neutral, kill and raise the engine. Out and away.
I'd like someday to switch from drums to disks, but it's only getting a salt water bath every other year. This past April, I was down in Tampa, and would spend about five minutes per drum at the washdown, making real sure. I've had no problems.
Don
jimh posted 06-22-2008 09:08 AM ET (US)
Longevity of the brake system is more related to the materials used than to the technique. One advantage to drum brakes is the hub can be removed without tearing apart the brake system. On disc brakes where the disc is integral to the hub, you have to remove the calipers to get the hub off. This make it much easier to service the bearings on a trailer with drum brakes.
jamesmylesmcp posted 07-15-2008 05:58 PM ET (US)
Just alittle follow-up here. I pulled the boat and fitted it to the trailer she's on there like a glove. I've never experienced the feel of a tandem with brakes behind me just a joy ! http://s212.photobucket.com/albums/cc91/71outrage/?action=view& current=NHcousinsandtrailer011.jpg The Eastcoast will now be explored and winter vacations will never be the same.

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Author	Topic: Trailer setup for 1971 Outrage
jamesmylesmcp	posted 06-20-2008 03:05 PM ET (US) Currently sitting in my driveway is a new Aluminium I-beam tandem bunk trailer,no keel rollers as of yet.The question is where should the bunks be positioned to meet the hull,and how many keel rollers are needed if any ? This addition will greatly increase my range this summer,can't wait to head East,way East! Interesting to me was Connecticut law now requires brakes on all axles I didn't expect this but it's a nice feeling,the brakes are fitted with a flush system that pours water via a garden hose fitting into the brake housings,neat,we'll see how effective it is in time.
L H G	posted 06-20-2008 03:13 PM ET (US) Jim, here is the trailer under my Ribside, a Continental keel roller model that fits it like it was specially designed for the boat. JDJET has the same one under his 21 Revenge. http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v429/lgoltz/Outrage%2021/?action=view& current=Scan0042.jpg Maybe this will help you with bunk and roller placement. I really hate to say it, but I think drum brakes are a real mistake based on 20 years of my experience. I keep hearing that those flushing systems don't work at all. At some point you WILL be converting to discs.
jamesmylesmcp	posted 06-20-2008 03:36 PM ET (US) Larry,thanks for the help ! The deal was good ,those are the brakes !(haha) Boat dealers who catch a visual of a wad of jack now adays are willing to talk rather than let you walk.Jim
HAPPYJIM	posted 06-20-2008 04:33 PM ET (US) Larry, I see you have double rollers on each horizontal bar. Is that necessary or can the rollers be installed as singles? I enjoy looking at pics of your boats no matter how many times I view them.
L H G	posted 06-20-2008 05:44 PM ET (US) Jim - Single rollers work on each cross member, but I like the doubles, since each roller carries so little load that the boats just roll on and off the trailer with no effort at all. No stress on the hull at bow eye, and none on the winch.
jamesmylesmcp	posted 06-20-2008 06:22 PM ET (US) Larry, I plan to put the boat on the bunks then fit the keel rollers,I assume they support the keel and the bunks less of the weight.Would I be correct to adjust keel rollers with a scissor jack lifting to a point of weight bearing ?
L H G	posted 06-20-2008 07:34 PM ET (US) Jim, I do just the opposite. First I set the keel rollers with the bunks dropped down to not touch the hull. I use a string to set all keel rollers in a straight line. Then I snug the bunks up just enough to stabilize the hull on the trailer. Basically, there is no weight on the bunks at all. You might also want to contact Don McIntyre, who uses a full bunk trailer (4 bunks I think) under his 21 smoothside. He completely submerses the trailer for launching and retrieval, and drives it on and off. It seems to work fine. Mine originally came on an all bunk trailer, and was impossible to launch and load, as I couldn't get the trailer in far enough most of the time. I got rid of it. I don't need to bury the trailer to use mine, which I prefer. And a lot of places don't allow drive-ons. You can also spin prop hubs in drive-on conditions (which I have done).
jamesmylesmcp	posted 06-20-2008 07:47 PM ET (US) Thanks,I got it.
dfmcintyre	posted 06-21-2008 09:04 PM ET (US) Jim - Like Larry said, mine is four bunked, no rollers (well, roller at stern, that is mounted so low it's useless). It was built with no adjustment in the bunks from the factory, Eagle Trailer here in Michigan. When launching, I allow the trailer in slightly less then when retrieving. Since I silicone the bunks twice a season, it pretty much slides off. When retrieving, I've found that it works best to have only about the first 1/4 of the bunks awash and it slides up to within about three feet of the bow nose. I'll leave it in dead forward idle to keep it from sliding down the bunks and winch in the two-three feet. Jump back in, neutral, kill and raise the engine. Out and away. I'd like someday to switch from drums to disks, but it's only getting a salt water bath every other year. This past April, I was down in Tampa, and would spend about five minutes per drum at the washdown, making real sure. I've had no problems. Don
jimh	posted 06-22-2008 09:08 AM ET (US) Longevity of the brake system is more related to the materials used than to the technique. One advantage to drum brakes is the hub can be removed without tearing apart the brake system. On disc brakes where the disc is integral to the hub, you have to remove the calipers to get the hub off. This make it much easier to service the bearings on a trailer with drum brakes.
jamesmylesmcp	posted 07-15-2008 05:58 PM ET (US) Just alittle follow-up here. I pulled the boat and fitted it to the trailer she's on there like a glove. I've never experienced the feel of a tandem with brakes behind me just a joy ! http://s212.photobucket.com/albums/cc91/71outrage/?action=view& current=NHcousinsandtrailer011.jpg The Eastcoast will now be explored and winter vacations will never be the same.