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Author Topic:   Yamaha Shift Rod Replacement, Cost

grocks posted 06-22-2008 02:15 AM ET (US)
I was having trouble with the gear shift on my 1990 150 Yamaha, so I took it down to the repair shop last week. We replaced the two cables from the [remote throttle and shift] to the motor last year. The mechanic says that I need a new control rod that is in the motor. He could show me a little section of it, and it looked quite corroded. Thist is a very expensive repair ($900 to $1,200) as this steel rod requires the head of the engine to be removed. Could this be true? Should I just run it till it breaks?
jimh posted 06-22-2008 09:01 AM ET (US)
Corrosion of the shift shaft in Yamaha outboard motors is a problem that has been mentioned previously, but it is usually in regard to much older models than a 1990 Yamaha. It is more common to hear of this problem occurring on Yamaha motors made prior to c.1986.
It seems reasonable that in order to install a long shift shaft into the midsection that the power head would have to be removed.
Peter posted 06-22-2008 09:17 AM ET (US)
Yes it is true. Power head has to be removed. Typically expensive because the bolts that hold the powerhead are corroded by now and will not readily come loose.
jimh posted 06-22-2008 10:13 AM ET (US)
Peter's mention of the likely corrosion of the bolts was also on my mind. If the engine has been in an environment in which the shift shaft is badly corroded, there may be more difficulties ahead related to corrosion on the power head.
seahorse posted 06-22-2008 02:57 PM ET (US)
It wasn't until about 1992 or 1993 before Yamaha finally changed to a stainless steel shift rod.
On older Yamahas, sometimes the cost in time and materials exceeds the worth of the motor when the long powerhead bolts are packed with salt and "grown" into the aluminum midsection.
grocks posted 06-22-2008 06:30 PM ET (US)
Thanks for all your posts. The motor runs very well so I think I need to bite the bullet and get it done. This has been a saltwater motor. Hope the new rod is stainless steel.
outragesteve posted 06-22-2008 06:30 PM ET (US)
I had the same problem! 1990 150 shift shaft needed replacing. Although engine had very low hours, steel shift shaft "twisted" and had to be replaced. Simple, I thought...Ordered the shaft,and then attemted to pull the powerhead. Long story short, I had to destroy the mid section (adapter plate) because the bolts were welded to the aluminium plate. I even tried crossing drilling, but that only got 3 out. I ended up selling the lower unit and mid section and still have the power head: It's for sale for a bargain price. KIeep us posted....and GOOD LUCK.
outragesteve posted 06-22-2008 06:32 PM ET (US)
I had the same problem! 1990 150 shift shaft needed replacing. Although engine had very low hours, steel shift shaft "twisted" and had to be replaced. Simple, I thought...Ordered the shaft,and then attemted to pull the powerhead. Long story short, I had to destroy the mid section (adapter plate) because the bolts were welded to the aluminium plate. I even tried crossing drilling, but that only got 3 out. I ended up selling the lower unit and mid section and still have the power head: It's for sale for a bargain price. KIeep us posted....and GOOD LUCK.
outragesteve posted 06-22-2008 06:39 PM ET (US)
I had the same problem with the same engine. I ordered the shaft and attemtped to pull the powerhead and replace it. Long story short, I had to destroy the adapter plate below the powerhead to get the ph off. I even tried crossong drilling the bolts, but only got 2 out. I ended up selling the lower unit and have the trim bracket and power head in my garage for sale. Very low hours: Just needs a complete mid section and lower unit. Good luck and do not get caught spending a ton of money on an engine that is 18 years old. Been there, done that. Keeps us informed: Maybe you will get lucky and the powerhead will slide right off.....
grocks posted 06-22-2008 11:34 PM ET (US)
Why is this shaft so important. Can I just run it till it breaks or is that a bad idea. Is there a safty concern if it breaks while I am underway?
SpongeBob posted 06-23-2008 12:42 AM ET (US)
You will be unable to shift. If it breaks in reverse thats where you are stuck.
Jeff
Tohsgib posted 06-23-2008 12:26 PM ET (US)
It was 1991 that [Yamaha outboards] went to SS shift rods. 1984-1990 WILL have it replaced eventually. I would run it until she bends. If you are not the original owner, chances are it might have been replaced already. If you drop the lower unit you can see the rod and it usually bends(twists) about an inch above where it gets skinny(2 1/2" up). Just look with a flashlight, if metal is not all dwindled down, keep running it.
jimh posted 06-23-2008 12:35 PM ET (US)
When I said,
"It is more common to hear of this problem occurring on Yamaha motors made prior to c.1986."
I did not mean that readers should infer that something specific happened to the design of Yamaha motors around 1986. The reports of shift shaft corrosion problems tend to be received from owners of older motors, as these motors have been in use longer and thus are subject to more corrosion. Hearing that a 1990 Yamaha motor is suffering from corrosion of the shift shaft is relatively uncommon, at least in the reports that I have read.
In any case, thanks to Seahorse and Nick for information that a substantive change in the Yamaha outboard motor shift shaft design occurred in 1991 or 1992 or 1993.
grocks posted 06-25-2008 01:15 AM ET (US)
Well sure enough I told my mechanic to do the work. He called this morning to inform me that his $1000.00 estimate is going up a few hundred more because of the time it took to take the power head off and additional parts that need to be ordered. He had to do some cutting to get the power head off due to corrosion.
swist posted 06-25-2008 08:52 AM ET (US)
I owned a 1993 225 Yamaha and went through all this. I believe I was lucky enough :-) to have just missed the anti-corrosion improvements in the 1994 models onward. You can't miss which one you have, as the newer ones are labelled "Saltwater Series II".
What is insidious about this problem besides the obvious pain and expense to repair, is how it manifests itself in many cases: The shift shaft slowly rusts and loses strength to the point where it flexes. So the first sign of a problem is weird shifting problems (won't go into neutral, neutral becomes reverse, etc, etc). If you are like me, you then spend tons of time trying to adjust/replace shift cables or controls, which usually fix the problem for about 10 minutes.
Then you find out what you are really up against!
BTW, the steering arm on those engines is also non-stainless steel, but unlike the shift shaft, is perfectly visible from outside, and you can see it rusting like crazy. And you are faced with a similar problem. Much needs to be disassembled to replace it.
Tohsgib posted 06-25-2008 11:23 AM ET (US)
My 1990 went bad in 2000 and my 1984 went bad in 1998. I think 10-15 years in salt water is the MAX considering my 1984 was drydocked for a few years.
Yamaha posted 06-10-2009 06:16 PM ET (US)
If any one is interested I am an ex machinist moved to quality control and I have designed a fix for this problem without pulling the power head from the motor. I have used the existing spline hub and have added some stainless steel components designed by myself. Works great and no need to pull any power heads.
pglein posted 06-10-2009 06:29 PM ET (US)
I'm surprised that it would require pulling the powerhead. I'm not familiar with the Yamaha motor, but on other motors, the shift rod can be pulled out the bottom and replaced with relative ease.
68 WhaleR posted 06-10-2009 09:24 PM ET (US)
Destroyed my Shift shaft while brutaly pulling the power head off. Like other said, too much corrision. I wonder if I can replace with a SS version on my 84 motor if the motor is worth rebuilding?
ZZZZ
Erick
HAPPYJIM posted 06-10-2009 09:32 PM ET (US)
Yamaha, can you tell from the serial number if it has the stainless rod? I have a 1993 150hp with no problems but would want to catch it before it does become a problem.
What is required with your fix?
Yamaha posted 06-11-2009 06:13 PM ET (US)
I'm not up to date on the serial numbers. I discovered this problem after having similar shift problems as the ones desrcibed above and became determined to repair this without pulling the power head. I was afraid to loose a great motor. Mine is a 1988 130 Yamaha.
You need access to machine shop and weld facilities. I am considering marketing the repair parts and proceedure as this can save alot of dollars and engines in service. If anyone has ideas how I could market the repair I would be interested in hearing them.
pcrussell50 posted 06-15-2009 03:44 AM ET (US)
I wonder if periodic removing of the powerhead bolts for liberal coating of anti-sieze is appropriate? Like maybe yearly, or so? Some folks with smaller outboards in the 25-50hp class do this fairly frequently, I've heard. At least in the OMC community.
-Peter
Tohsgib posted 06-15-2009 07:28 PM ET (US)
Peter...If you do it once it will keep the bolts from freezing. OEM does not put anything on the bolts at the factory.
Yamaha posted 06-18-2009 07:25 PM ET (US)
I was advised by an outboard mechanic not to use antisieze. Marine grease is what you want to use. I have been using it on my lower unit bolts and it does work well.
Tohsgib posted 06-19-2009 10:38 AM ET (US)
Either or. You can also use locktite like Suzuki does. ANYTHING to keep the metals welding to each other.

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Author	Topic: Yamaha Shift Rod Replacement, Cost
grocks	posted 06-22-2008 02:15 AM ET (US) I was having trouble with the gear shift on my 1990 150 Yamaha, so I took it down to the repair shop last week. We replaced the two cables from the [remote throttle and shift] to the motor last year. The mechanic says that I need a new control rod that is in the motor. He could show me a little section of it, and it looked quite corroded. Thist is a very expensive repair ($900 to $1,200) as this steel rod requires the head of the engine to be removed. Could this be true? Should I just run it till it breaks?
jimh	posted 06-22-2008 09:01 AM ET (US) Corrosion of the shift shaft in Yamaha outboard motors is a problem that has been mentioned previously, but it is usually in regard to much older models than a 1990 Yamaha. It is more common to hear of this problem occurring on Yamaha motors made prior to c.1986. It seems reasonable that in order to install a long shift shaft into the midsection that the power head would have to be removed.
Peter	posted 06-22-2008 09:17 AM ET (US) Yes it is true. Power head has to be removed. Typically expensive because the bolts that hold the powerhead are corroded by now and will not readily come loose.
jimh	posted 06-22-2008 10:13 AM ET (US) Peter's mention of the likely corrosion of the bolts was also on my mind. If the engine has been in an environment in which the shift shaft is badly corroded, there may be more difficulties ahead related to corrosion on the power head.
seahorse	posted 06-22-2008 02:57 PM ET (US) It wasn't until about 1992 or 1993 before Yamaha finally changed to a stainless steel shift rod. On older Yamahas, sometimes the cost in time and materials exceeds the worth of the motor when the long powerhead bolts are packed with salt and "grown" into the aluminum midsection.
grocks	posted 06-22-2008 06:30 PM ET (US) Thanks for all your posts. The motor runs very well so I think I need to bite the bullet and get it done. This has been a saltwater motor. Hope the new rod is stainless steel.
outragesteve	posted 06-22-2008 06:30 PM ET (US) I had the same problem! 1990 150 shift shaft needed replacing. Although engine had very low hours, steel shift shaft "twisted" and had to be replaced. Simple, I thought...Ordered the shaft,and then attemted to pull the powerhead. Long story short, I had to destroy the mid section (adapter plate) because the bolts were welded to the aluminium plate. I even tried crossing drilling, but that only got 3 out. I ended up selling the lower unit and mid section and still have the power head: It's for sale for a bargain price. KIeep us posted....and GOOD LUCK.
outragesteve	posted 06-22-2008 06:32 PM ET (US) I had the same problem! 1990 150 shift shaft needed replacing. Although engine had very low hours, steel shift shaft "twisted" and had to be replaced. Simple, I thought...Ordered the shaft,and then attemted to pull the powerhead. Long story short, I had to destroy the mid section (adapter plate) because the bolts were welded to the aluminium plate. I even tried crossing drilling, but that only got 3 out. I ended up selling the lower unit and mid section and still have the power head: It's for sale for a bargain price. KIeep us posted....and GOOD LUCK.
outragesteve	posted 06-22-2008 06:39 PM ET (US) I had the same problem with the same engine. I ordered the shaft and attemtped to pull the powerhead and replace it. Long story short, I had to destroy the adapter plate below the powerhead to get the ph off. I even tried crossong drilling the bolts, but only got 2 out. I ended up selling the lower unit and have the trim bracket and power head in my garage for sale. Very low hours: Just needs a complete mid section and lower unit. Good luck and do not get caught spending a ton of money on an engine that is 18 years old. Been there, done that. Keeps us informed: Maybe you will get lucky and the powerhead will slide right off.....
grocks	posted 06-22-2008 11:34 PM ET (US) Why is this shaft so important. Can I just run it till it breaks or is that a bad idea. Is there a safty concern if it breaks while I am underway?
SpongeBob	posted 06-23-2008 12:42 AM ET (US) You will be unable to shift. If it breaks in reverse thats where you are stuck. Jeff
Tohsgib	posted 06-23-2008 12:26 PM ET (US) It was 1991 that [Yamaha outboards] went to SS shift rods. 1984-1990 WILL have it replaced eventually. I would run it until she bends. If you are not the original owner, chances are it might have been replaced already. If you drop the lower unit you can see the rod and it usually bends(twists) about an inch above where it gets skinny(2 1/2" up). Just look with a flashlight, if metal is not all dwindled down, keep running it.
jimh	posted 06-23-2008 12:35 PM ET (US) When I said, "It is more common to hear of this problem occurring on Yamaha motors made prior to c.1986." I did not mean that readers should infer that something specific happened to the design of Yamaha motors around 1986. The reports of shift shaft corrosion problems tend to be received from owners of older motors, as these motors have been in use longer and thus are subject to more corrosion. Hearing that a 1990 Yamaha motor is suffering from corrosion of the shift shaft is relatively uncommon, at least in the reports that I have read. In any case, thanks to Seahorse and Nick for information that a substantive change in the Yamaha outboard motor shift shaft design occurred in 1991 or 1992 or 1993.
grocks	posted 06-25-2008 01:15 AM ET (US) Well sure enough I told my mechanic to do the work. He called this morning to inform me that his $1000.00 estimate is going up a few hundred more because of the time it took to take the power head off and additional parts that need to be ordered. He had to do some cutting to get the power head off due to corrosion.
swist	posted 06-25-2008 08:52 AM ET (US) I owned a 1993 225 Yamaha and went through all this. I believe I was lucky enough :-) to have just missed the anti-corrosion improvements in the 1994 models onward. You can't miss which one you have, as the newer ones are labelled "Saltwater Series II". What is insidious about this problem besides the obvious pain and expense to repair, is how it manifests itself in many cases: The shift shaft slowly rusts and loses strength to the point where it flexes. So the first sign of a problem is weird shifting problems (won't go into neutral, neutral becomes reverse, etc, etc). If you are like me, you then spend tons of time trying to adjust/replace shift cables or controls, which usually fix the problem for about 10 minutes. Then you find out what you are really up against! BTW, the steering arm on those engines is also non-stainless steel, but unlike the shift shaft, is perfectly visible from outside, and you can see it rusting like crazy. And you are faced with a similar problem. Much needs to be disassembled to replace it.
Tohsgib	posted 06-25-2008 11:23 AM ET (US) My 1990 went bad in 2000 and my 1984 went bad in 1998. I think 10-15 years in salt water is the MAX considering my 1984 was drydocked for a few years.
Yamaha	posted 06-10-2009 06:16 PM ET (US) If any one is interested I am an ex machinist moved to quality control and I have designed a fix for this problem without pulling the power head from the motor. I have used the existing spline hub and have added some stainless steel components designed by myself. Works great and no need to pull any power heads.
pglein	posted 06-10-2009 06:29 PM ET (US) I'm surprised that it would require pulling the powerhead. I'm not familiar with the Yamaha motor, but on other motors, the shift rod can be pulled out the bottom and replaced with relative ease.
68 WhaleR	posted 06-10-2009 09:24 PM ET (US) Destroyed my Shift shaft while brutaly pulling the power head off. Like other said, too much corrision. I wonder if I can replace with a SS version on my 84 motor if the motor is worth rebuilding? ZZZZ Erick
HAPPYJIM	posted 06-10-2009 09:32 PM ET (US) Yamaha, can you tell from the serial number if it has the stainless rod? I have a 1993 150hp with no problems but would want to catch it before it does become a problem. What is required with your fix?
Yamaha	posted 06-11-2009 06:13 PM ET (US) I'm not up to date on the serial numbers. I discovered this problem after having similar shift problems as the ones desrcibed above and became determined to repair this without pulling the power head. I was afraid to loose a great motor. Mine is a 1988 130 Yamaha. You need access to machine shop and weld facilities. I am considering marketing the repair parts and proceedure as this can save alot of dollars and engines in service. If anyone has ideas how I could market the repair I would be interested in hearing them.
pcrussell50	posted 06-15-2009 03:44 AM ET (US) I wonder if periodic removing of the powerhead bolts for liberal coating of anti-sieze is appropriate? Like maybe yearly, or so? Some folks with smaller outboards in the 25-50hp class do this fairly frequently, I've heard. At least in the OMC community. -Peter
Tohsgib	posted 06-15-2009 07:28 PM ET (US) Peter...If you do it once it will keep the bolts from freezing. OEM does not put anything on the bolts at the factory.
Yamaha	posted 06-18-2009 07:25 PM ET (US) I was advised by an outboard mechanic not to use antisieze. Marine grease is what you want to use. I have been using it on my lower unit bolts and it does work well.
Tohsgib	posted 06-19-2009 10:38 AM ET (US) Either or. You can also use locktite like Suzuki does. ANYTHING to keep the metals welding to each other.