Author
|
Topic: 2002 Johnson 175 Stalls on Warm Re-Start
|
Tuna |
posted 07-20-2008 09:25 AM ET (US)
After running my 2002 Johnson 175-HP motor full-out to get to my fishing spot, and fishing for several minutes to several hours, when restarting my motor and putting it into gear the motor cuts out and stalls. These are the steps I have already taken to remedy this problem:--I now use 92 octane gas --I allow the motor to warm up prior to putting into gear --I have replaced transfer gear switch in the motor, the small switch in the motor the changes from forward to reverse; this helped it from stalling when I place the motor into reverse. However, after doing all this it still stalls out [when shifted] into forward. Any suggestions or help would be appreciated. What can it be? I'm a new member and I found this site while doing research on my boat motor. After reading several posts, it seems that there are some very knowledgeable people on this site regarding Johnson motors. I hope someone can help.
|
jimh
|
posted 07-20-2008 11:02 AM ET (US)
I believe that a 2002 Johnson 175-HP motor is a classic V6 two-cycle motor with six carburetors.I suggest you: --check your idle speed setting, as it may be set too low; --check your carburetor throttle plate linkage and engine timing advance, a procedure known as "sync and link;" --check that the throttle cam roller is intact. If the roller is missing it can upset the throttle linkage synchronization. See item 12 in the illustration linked below: http://12.2.215.22/Scripts/ImgServ.exe/ convert?ilFN=e%3A%5Cwebcat%5Cimages%5C41%5C5005050%5CEPC3095.TIF& ilSC=25&ilIV=0&ilBR=0&ilIF=G&ilRE=8 |
Tuna
|
posted 07-20-2008 01:11 PM ET (US)
Thanks Jim... That awesome!!! I'll try that and keep you posted.. |
Tuna
|
posted 08-30-2008 04:32 AM ET (US)
Well Jim ... I have followed all your suggestions and I ended up isolating the problem to one wrong spark plug and a brunt ignition coil. Replaced the plug and ignition coil - clean and gaped the remaining plugs and it seemed to fix the problem. However, yesterday while fishing a need problem developed: After re-starting on a warm start the motor would cut out after a minute or so – almost the same problem I had. Tried re-starting it several times and it would start and then cut on once I try putting it in gear. After the third and fourth re-start the motor cut out and lost all power to the motor - trim was not working, ignition not working etc... Checked all fuses (OK) - all electronics and boat power were fine (they were all using the same battery as the motor) - checked main cut-off switch (OK) - turned the cut-off switch on and off, touched the trim on the motor and the power came back on the motor. Re-started the motor and allowed it to warm up longer and increased RPM's in neutral – this seemed to work. After, running full out and slowing down the engine chimes and warning lights (sound and lights you get once you turn on the motor) came on – However, no warning light stayed on. Any suggestion??? |
acassidy
|
posted 09-01-2008 10:09 AM ET (US)
if you are having a fuel problem, and it sounds like you are. then if you have low fuel to a piston you will have low oil also to a piston and could cause it to over head. Over head will make it alarm. Sounds to me you have a fuel flow problem. I would get the carbs cleaned. I think your electrical problem was just Murphys Law trying to get ya. Bad battery switch.I installed morse controls on my boat to seperate shift from throttle so that I have complete control of the motor. If I need to increase the idle while out on the boat I can. Archie |
PATXBill
|
posted 09-02-2008 12:29 PM ET (US)
Tuna,I don't think the 2002's have fixed-jet carbs, but I'll give you my experience with an '87 225 Evinrude that had the exact same issue. It was EXTREMELY frustrating to be stuck at idle speed in the Gulf of Mexico. I went through 3 mechanics until I found one who solved the problem (Acie of Acie's Outboards in Kemah, TX--GREAT OMC/BRP service). Acie attributed the problem to "heat soak." It's been a few years, but I'll try to paraphrase the best I can. Please understand that this is from memory of what I was told. In my case, the heat soak issue case reared itself in the transition from the low-speed jets to the high-speed jets. In the old, fixed-jet V-6s, Acie explained to me that when hot, especially in humid conditions, the motors sometimes died on the transition due to minute traces of water vapor that formed droplets on the jets. According to Acie, ethanol fuel added to the problem, contributing more water vapor, and those droplets interfered with the flow of fuel from the high-speed jets during transition. The cure was to try a larger set of high-speed jets (but not too large, or it would run too rich). Bottom line: The problem went away immediately. That was 4 years and a few hundred hours of motor time ago, and the problem has never reoccurred. Yes, I moved back north to PA two years ago, but I put on LOTS of hours in the gulf in the hottest, most humid conditions and post-jet change, the difference was like night and day. Motor still running like a champ. So check your jets, and try a BIT richer mixture. That may help. I'm sure others on here can give better advice, but give it a try. It may be a simple, cheap fix. |
PATXBill
|
posted 09-02-2008 12:34 PM ET (US)
Re-reading my last post, I'm sorry I was unclear that my problems did not include the strange electrical issues Tuna was experiencing subsequent to his initial post. I should have read more carefully. |
Tohsgib
|
posted 09-02-2008 01:09 PM ET (US)
I had the same problem sometimes with my 225. Squeezing the bulb usually corrected it. |