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Author Topic:   SPORT 13 Replacement Interior

Orangeburg posted 08-06-2008 02:46 PM ET (US)
I would like to purchase a new mahogany console, hatch, seats, and risers for my 1986 Boston Whaler Sport 13. The original wood is a bit past the point of restoration, and I am not quite handy enough to put it together myself. I've seen a few vendors on an auction website. Any recommendations as to who does a quality job at a reasonable price? Any advice in general would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Dan
erik selis posted 08-06-2008 04:20 PM ET (US)
Try this website:
http://www.specialtymarine.com/
Erik
Orangeburg posted 08-06-2008 05:23 PM ET (US)
Holy cow, that stuff is expensive. I might try and be a handy guy after all. Do you know of a web page where the specs are posted, so that I can purchase and cut the wood myself? This might actually be fun to do anyway.
Also, does anyone out there know what type of stain to use. I've heard "sea-spar" mentioned before. Do you stain and then polyurethane coat? What type of stain matches the original color best? I've heard people mention "African Mahogany" as the type of wood used, but is there a certain grade or thickness? Any tips for a "not so handy" guy before he starts this project would be appreciated. If I spend a bunch of money on wood, and then mess it all up, my wife (and daughters) will never let me live it down...
Thanks,
Dan
deepwater posted 08-06-2008 09:21 PM ET (US)
measure twice and cut once,,use a good grade cabinet blade on your table saw and go slow,,make lots of templates out of hard cardboard
Sebash4 posted 08-07-2008 01:51 PM ET (US)
Orangeburg,
I had a local cabinet shop build a complete set of Mahogany for my 13'Classic and it cost me $440.00. It looks fantastic and everything fits perfectly. I found it on Ebay and other sources but getting it custom built is a good way to go. Let me know if you need more info. My cabinet maker is only about 70 miles from Orangeburg. I can email you pictures if you would like.
frisco pete posted 08-07-2008 04:52 PM ET (US)
Orangeburg.
You can build your own replica of an original interior, Plans and dimensions are available on this website, and on WC. The Mahogany (sapele) costs about $5 per board foot roughsawn. You need about 27-board-feet to do the job. Good grade varnish cost about $25 per quart. You need about 2 quarts. Add another $50 for paint thinner, good brush, tack rags, sandpaper, and misc. I assume you already have all the tools and are experienced in their use. Build an original interior, don`t cop out and take the easy road with butt joints, and screw it together with screws and finish washers. Glue all your joints, make the same rabbited joints as the original, and plug all the screws with mahogany plugs. Apply 8-10 coats of varnish.
Also keep track of the hours you spend on this project. When you done, subtract the cost of materials against the price of the expensive interior. The difference is what you made in labor. Divide your hours into this. This will give you your hourly rate. Probably about the same as you can make bagging groceries. But does yours look like high quality furniture. I hope so.
rich
deepwater posted 08-07-2008 05:01 PM ET (US)
orangeburg,,you may have an Amish furniture maker near ya and they do great work and they love to fish and barter you get the wood and pickup and deliver and provide a few trips and see where that goes ,,, i have done it in Delaware lots of times i did some of the work and they made it all work out
billcoon posted 08-08-2008 11:28 AM ET (US)
I used Mahogany Porch decking for the hatches on my 1973 Outrage 21. They [cost] about $20 per hatch. All you need to do is glue and clamp the tongue and grove boards together with some strong backs to tie everything together. Then I used Capt's Varnish to finish it off (7 Coats). It looks great. My next wood project is to do a leaning post.
pglein posted 08-11-2008 03:37 PM ET (US)
I found the biggest challenge in replacing the interior of my 13-foot Boston Whaler boat to be finding properly sized mahogany. The original was built with non-nominal lumber, which is essentially non-existent anymore. Buying it oversized (5/4) and planing it down is wasteful and expensive, but most of all, it's also nearly impossible to find mahogany in that thickness and width.
If you buy a kit, make sure that the seats are a true 1" thick by 12" wide. Any thinner, and they will flex and break under the weight of two people.
los is 7 posted 08-11-2008 07:58 PM ET (US)
Call the wood shop 314-739-0001
They got what you need, in 5/4" and then some.
Orangeburg posted 08-16-2008 05:18 PM ET (US)
frisco pete (Rich):
You make it sound as if I am building a piano. Five out of the 6 pieces in the sport interior are FLAT PIECES OF WOOD (two seats, bow hatch, two risers). The console is essentially a half box. Thank you for the information about the Mahogany and the additional costs involved. My compliments, as you have an excellent command of the English Language, in spite of your emigration from Cuba (as posted in your profile).
Also, many thanks to all here who have provided advice.
Sincerely,
Dan
seabob4 posted 08-16-2008 09:32 PM ET (US)
Sounds like, from his post, that Frisco Pete knows what he is talking about. Sapele is a giveaway. The fact that he is from Cuba has nothing to do with anything. Have you listened to W's english? Frisco could give him lessons!
I learned engines form a Cuban at Wellcraft back in the early nineties. That man, Antonio Fernandez, will forget more than I'll ever know. I think of him a lot, he is a good man. Made his own Chorizo, from Boston Butt.
"A mind is like a parachute- it only works when it's open."
Casco Bay Outrage posted 08-16-2008 10:16 PM ET (US)
Dan -
The fact that Whaler used quality materials assembled by skilled craftsmen is one reason whalers are more expensive to buy (new and used) and to maintain.
Erik gave you good advice on the first question.
Frisco gave you good advice/pricing on doing a DIY.
Don't shoot the messenger.
Want a cheap repair, go with plywood and pine. It is your boat.
Be polite and keep inappropriate comments to oneself.
seabob4 posted 08-16-2008 10:21 PM ET (US)
Phil,
Understood.
Bob
skred posted 08-17-2008 07:09 PM ET (US)
Look for wood called "ype" (ee-pay) Tough as iron, VERY hard, pretty grain, very resistant to cracking, splitting.
Look it up on this forum's search engine.
Casco Bay Outrage posted 08-17-2008 07:58 PM ET (US)
To help in the search, it is spelled Ipe.
superdave_gv posted 08-17-2008 10:49 PM ET (US)

Without seeing the condition, I can't be certain, but... I restored my 13 interior by disassembling it and taking it to a professional antique furniture restorer. He charged a couple hundred bucks max if memory serves. My cabin style house has no workshop or garage so that made the most sense to me.
But Frisco Pete is right, he posted as Binkie on here for years and is known as a craftsman.
Bottom line, do the math, know your capabilities. The Specialty Marine price is not unreasonable and consider they probably get some efficiencies of scale and being in the business. If you are an ER Doc as in your profile, I am sure you can understand the justification of a profession's bill rates. In all fairness as well, it also may be worth keeping your skilled hands away from power tools so they can be used for ER stuff.
Tohsgib posted 08-18-2008 01:38 PM ET (US)
For about $500 delivered to your door...buy it new! I have redone at least 20 interiors and they get harder and [more wearisome] as the years go by. Fun...I don't think so unless you are Bob Villa.
Sebash4 posted 08-18-2008 03:32 PM ET (US)
SuperDave,
I agree with you that Specialty Marine is not a bad price but the picture they have in the link doesn't include the bow hatch cover, it's sold separately. I don't know what the cost of the bow cover would be but those boards are expensive.
Tohsgib has some good advise, unless you're very handy with wood and have the right tools, you're better off buying it professionally built.
Tom Hemphill posted 08-18-2008 06:07 PM ET (US)
superdave_gv and Toshgib bring up a good point which I neglected to, and that is to "know your limits" Safety, of course is paramount, as woodworking tools of all kinds can cause serious injury (no revelation to an ER doctor, I'm sure). Both for safety and domestic tranquility, you need a good workspace to do woodworking, which is noisy, dusty and sometimes stinky work. Due to a lack of good workspace, I nearly hired out the last restoration of my 13-footer's woodwork, even though I had a good complement of hand and power tools. In the end I found a good workspace, bought even more expensive power tools, and achieved the results I was after, while still maintaining domestic tranquility.
macfam posted 08-18-2008 08:53 PM ET (US)
Dan,
I purchased two thwart seats from Mike Stennent at mike@nauticallumber.com
Great wood, great finish, and reasonably priced shipped on time as promised.
I highly recommend giving him an email to discuss.
Bob
Sebash4 posted 08-18-2008 10:17 PM ET (US)

Attached are photos of the mahogany for my Classic Whaler which I had a local cabinet maker build for me. It cost me 440.00 for all 9 pieces and the wood is African mahogany. It's glued and screwed with mahogany dowel plugs covering the screws. I'm very pleased with it and looking forward to getting it on my boat this fall.
My HTML is off on this computer and I'm not smart enough to turn it on so if one of you computer guy's can help convert the file so one click will do it I will be much obliged.
http://s298.photobucket.com/albums/mm265/sebash4/?special_track=nav_tab_my_albums

jimh posted 08-19-2008 07:15 AM ET (US)
If you have all the original pieces of wood, then plans are not necessary. Use the existing pieces of wood as patterns to make the replacement parts.
superdave_gv posted 08-19-2008 07:37 AM ET (US)

Sebash, looks nice! Here's a live link for you.
s298.photobucket.com/albums/mm265/sebash4/ ?special_track=nav_tab_my_albums
That reminds me of one other reason why I didn't buy a replacement set. Without even a good solid workbench at my cabin, I didn't feel comfortable drilling all the holes. Not the screw holes, I could manage those without a drill press. The trick is the steering wheel / pulley access oval holes.
Sebash4 posted 08-19-2008 11:24 AM ET (US)
JimH,
That's exactly what I did. The wood in my boat was beyond restoration so I took it to my cabinet maker and he used it for the measurements and even though I haven't installed it on the boat, everthing seems to fit perfectly. If someone out there is thinking of doing this but doesn't have the old console/boards, I'll be happy to give them mine.

Superdave,
Thanks for taking care of the file for me.
WaterWorldBoating posted 08-19-2008 11:34 PM ET (US)
The replacement mahogany from Specialty Marine looks good however, each board is not made from one solid piece of mahogany. It is more than one piece of mahogony (likely glued) bonded together. I was considering buying new rather than refishing a while back and thought the pictures reflected multiple pieces. An email to them confirmed my hunch.
Does anyone know if the replacement wood from Nautical Lumber made from one solid piece of mahogany?

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Author	Topic: SPORT 13 Replacement Interior
Orangeburg	posted 08-06-2008 02:46 PM ET (US) I would like to purchase a new mahogany console, hatch, seats, and risers for my 1986 Boston Whaler Sport 13. The original wood is a bit past the point of restoration, and I am not quite handy enough to put it together myself. I've seen a few vendors on an auction website. Any recommendations as to who does a quality job at a reasonable price? Any advice in general would be appreciated. Thanks, Dan
erik selis	posted 08-06-2008 04:20 PM ET (US) Try this website: http://www.specialtymarine.com/ Erik
Orangeburg	posted 08-06-2008 05:23 PM ET (US) Holy cow, that stuff is expensive. I might try and be a handy guy after all. Do you know of a web page where the specs are posted, so that I can purchase and cut the wood myself? This might actually be fun to do anyway. Also, does anyone out there know what type of stain to use. I've heard "sea-spar" mentioned before. Do you stain and then polyurethane coat? What type of stain matches the original color best? I've heard people mention "African Mahogany" as the type of wood used, but is there a certain grade or thickness? Any tips for a "not so handy" guy before he starts this project would be appreciated. If I spend a bunch of money on wood, and then mess it all up, my wife (and daughters) will never let me live it down... Thanks, Dan
deepwater	posted 08-06-2008 09:21 PM ET (US) measure twice and cut once,,use a good grade cabinet blade on your table saw and go slow,,make lots of templates out of hard cardboard
Sebash4	posted 08-07-2008 01:51 PM ET (US) Orangeburg, I had a local cabinet shop build a complete set of Mahogany for my 13'Classic and it cost me $440.00. It looks fantastic and everything fits perfectly. I found it on Ebay and other sources but getting it custom built is a good way to go. Let me know if you need more info. My cabinet maker is only about 70 miles from Orangeburg. I can email you pictures if you would like.
frisco pete	posted 08-07-2008 04:52 PM ET (US) Orangeburg. You can build your own replica of an original interior, Plans and dimensions are available on this website, and on WC. The Mahogany (sapele) costs about $5 per board foot roughsawn. You need about 27-board-feet to do the job. Good grade varnish cost about $25 per quart. You need about 2 quarts. Add another $50 for paint thinner, good brush, tack rags, sandpaper, and misc. I assume you already have all the tools and are experienced in their use. Build an original interior, don`t cop out and take the easy road with butt joints, and screw it together with screws and finish washers. Glue all your joints, make the same rabbited joints as the original, and plug all the screws with mahogany plugs. Apply 8-10 coats of varnish. Also keep track of the hours you spend on this project. When you done, subtract the cost of materials against the price of the expensive interior. The difference is what you made in labor. Divide your hours into this. This will give you your hourly rate. Probably about the same as you can make bagging groceries. But does yours look like high quality furniture. I hope so. rich
deepwater	posted 08-07-2008 05:01 PM ET (US) orangeburg,,you may have an Amish furniture maker near ya and they do great work and they love to fish and barter you get the wood and pickup and deliver and provide a few trips and see where that goes ,,, i have done it in Delaware lots of times i did some of the work and they made it all work out
billcoon	posted 08-08-2008 11:28 AM ET (US) I used Mahogany Porch decking for the hatches on my 1973 Outrage 21. They [cost] about $20 per hatch. All you need to do is glue and clamp the tongue and grove boards together with some strong backs to tie everything together. Then I used Capt's Varnish to finish it off (7 Coats). It looks great. My next wood project is to do a leaning post.
pglein	posted 08-11-2008 03:37 PM ET (US) I found the biggest challenge in replacing the interior of my 13-foot Boston Whaler boat to be finding properly sized mahogany. The original was built with non-nominal lumber, which is essentially non-existent anymore. Buying it oversized (5/4) and planing it down is wasteful and expensive, but most of all, it's also nearly impossible to find mahogany in that thickness and width. If you buy a kit, make sure that the seats are a true 1" thick by 12" wide. Any thinner, and they will flex and break under the weight of two people.
los is 7	posted 08-11-2008 07:58 PM ET (US) Call the wood shop 314-739-0001 They got what you need, in 5/4" and then some.
Orangeburg	posted 08-16-2008 05:18 PM ET (US) frisco pete (Rich): You make it sound as if I am building a piano. Five out of the 6 pieces in the sport interior are FLAT PIECES OF WOOD (two seats, bow hatch, two risers). The console is essentially a half box. Thank you for the information about the Mahogany and the additional costs involved. My compliments, as you have an excellent command of the English Language, in spite of your emigration from Cuba (as posted in your profile). Also, many thanks to all here who have provided advice. Sincerely, Dan
seabob4	posted 08-16-2008 09:32 PM ET (US) Sounds like, from his post, that Frisco Pete knows what he is talking about. Sapele is a giveaway. The fact that he is from Cuba has nothing to do with anything. Have you listened to W's english? Frisco could give him lessons! I learned engines form a Cuban at Wellcraft back in the early nineties. That man, Antonio Fernandez, will forget more than I'll ever know. I think of him a lot, he is a good man. Made his own Chorizo, from Boston Butt. "A mind is like a parachute- it only works when it's open."
Casco Bay Outrage	posted 08-16-2008 10:16 PM ET (US) Dan - The fact that Whaler used quality materials assembled by skilled craftsmen is one reason whalers are more expensive to buy (new and used) and to maintain. Erik gave you good advice on the first question. Frisco gave you good advice/pricing on doing a DIY. Don't shoot the messenger. Want a cheap repair, go with plywood and pine. It is your boat. Be polite and keep inappropriate comments to oneself.
seabob4	posted 08-16-2008 10:21 PM ET (US) Phil, Understood. Bob
skred	posted 08-17-2008 07:09 PM ET (US) Look for wood called "ype" (ee-pay) Tough as iron, VERY hard, pretty grain, very resistant to cracking, splitting. Look it up on this forum's search engine.
Casco Bay Outrage	posted 08-17-2008 07:58 PM ET (US) To help in the search, it is spelled Ipe.
superdave_gv	posted 08-17-2008 10:49 PM ET (US) Without seeing the condition, I can't be certain, but... I restored my 13 interior by disassembling it and taking it to a professional antique furniture restorer. He charged a couple hundred bucks max if memory serves. My cabin style house has no workshop or garage so that made the most sense to me. But Frisco Pete is right, he posted as Binkie on here for years and is known as a craftsman. Bottom line, do the math, know your capabilities. The Specialty Marine price is not unreasonable and consider they probably get some efficiencies of scale and being in the business. If you are an ER Doc as in your profile, I am sure you can understand the justification of a profession's bill rates. In all fairness as well, it also may be worth keeping your skilled hands away from power tools so they can be used for ER stuff.
Tohsgib	posted 08-18-2008 01:38 PM ET (US) For about $500 delivered to your door...buy it new! I have redone at least 20 interiors and they get harder and [more wearisome] as the years go by. Fun...I don't think so unless you are Bob Villa.
Sebash4	posted 08-18-2008 03:32 PM ET (US) SuperDave, I agree with you that Specialty Marine is not a bad price but the picture they have in the link doesn't include the bow hatch cover, it's sold separately. I don't know what the cost of the bow cover would be but those boards are expensive. Tohsgib has some good advise, unless you're very handy with wood and have the right tools, you're better off buying it professionally built.
Tom Hemphill	posted 08-18-2008 06:07 PM ET (US) superdave_gv and Toshgib bring up a good point which I neglected to, and that is to "know your limits" Safety, of course is paramount, as woodworking tools of all kinds can cause serious injury (no revelation to an ER doctor, I'm sure). Both for safety and domestic tranquility, you need a good workspace to do woodworking, which is noisy, dusty and sometimes stinky work. Due to a lack of good workspace, I nearly hired out the last restoration of my 13-footer's woodwork, even though I had a good complement of hand and power tools. In the end I found a good workspace, bought even more expensive power tools, and achieved the results I was after, while still maintaining domestic tranquility.
macfam	posted 08-18-2008 08:53 PM ET (US) Dan, I purchased two thwart seats from Mike Stennent at mike@nauticallumber.com Great wood, great finish, and reasonably priced shipped on time as promised. I highly recommend giving him an email to discuss. Bob
Sebash4	posted 08-18-2008 10:17 PM ET (US) Attached are photos of the mahogany for my Classic Whaler which I had a local cabinet maker build for me. It cost me 440.00 for all 9 pieces and the wood is African mahogany. It's glued and screwed with mahogany dowel plugs covering the screws. I'm very pleased with it and looking forward to getting it on my boat this fall. My HTML is off on this computer and I'm not smart enough to turn it on so if one of you computer guy's can help convert the file so one click will do it I will be much obliged. http://s298.photobucket.com/albums/mm265/sebash4/?special_track=nav_tab_my_albums
jimh	posted 08-19-2008 07:15 AM ET (US) If you have all the original pieces of wood, then plans are not necessary. Use the existing pieces of wood as patterns to make the replacement parts.
superdave_gv	posted 08-19-2008 07:37 AM ET (US) Sebash, looks nice! Here's a live link for you. s298.photobucket.com/albums/mm265/sebash4/ ?special_track=nav_tab_my_albums That reminds me of one other reason why I didn't buy a replacement set. Without even a good solid workbench at my cabin, I didn't feel comfortable drilling all the holes. Not the screw holes, I could manage those without a drill press. The trick is the steering wheel / pulley access oval holes.
Sebash4	posted 08-19-2008 11:24 AM ET (US) JimH, That's exactly what I did. The wood in my boat was beyond restoration so I took it to my cabinet maker and he used it for the measurements and even though I haven't installed it on the boat, everthing seems to fit perfectly. If someone out there is thinking of doing this but doesn't have the old console/boards, I'll be happy to give them mine. Superdave, Thanks for taking care of the file for me.
WaterWorldBoating	posted 08-19-2008 11:34 PM ET (US) The replacement mahogany from Specialty Marine looks good however, each board is not made from one solid piece of mahogany. It is more than one piece of mahogony (likely glued) bonded together. I was considering buying new rather than refishing a while back and thought the pictures reflected multiple pieces. An email to them confirmed my hunch. Does anyone know if the replacement wood from Nautical Lumber made from one solid piece of mahogany?