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Author Topic:   Rub Rail Replacement

knotflyn posted 08-08-2008 09:20 PM ET (US)
After putting it off for a while, I finally replaced the rub rail on my 1987 Montauk 17. I downloaded the info on rub rails and used it to help the process. I bought the kit from Sue at Twin cities Marine. She is very nice and helpful. The main reason for writing is that I ordered the kit with stainless screws, but they gave me 1/2-inch screws and you need 1-inch screws for the job. For anyone that is thinking about doing their boat, just something to consider when ordering a kit. Also, this is a two man job, the rigid receiver track is tough to work with until you get a few feet screwed in. Bobby
erik selis posted 08-15-2008 02:36 PM ET (US)
Thanks for the info. I also have a rub-rail on it's way from Sue. It's for a 13-ft Sport. Would you also need 1-inch screws for this you think?
Erik
Tohsgib posted 08-15-2008 02:51 PM ET (US)
Mine always came with rivets, not screws.
erik selis posted 08-15-2008 03:04 PM ET (US)
Nick, when ordering you can choose between rivets and screws. I chose screws but there was no mention of how long they were.
Erik
dg22 posted 08-15-2008 04:35 PM ET (US)
I just put a new rub rail on my 13 footer. Definitely a 2 man job. Since it has not been very hot around here I put the rigid track inside my car (in the sun) for a few hours to make it more flexible. I also found using clamps to get it nice and tight to the boat before putting the rivets in really helped. I had problems with my rivet gun so it was a long process.
Dave
Blackduck posted 08-15-2008 05:28 PM ET (US)
Rivets are the way to go. They will pull the receiver in nice and tight and keep it there. I question whether screws will continue to hold over time, the laminate is not very thick in this area. Leaving the receiver out in the sun for a week, stretched out, really helps.
frisco pete posted 08-15-2008 05:34 PM ET (US)
Use rivets not screws, the glass is very thin, and not much to bite into, at least on the 13 footer, Rivets will hold, and that`s what was originally used. Must be stainless, and that is what is supplied with the rail kit.
rich
frisco pete posted 08-15-2008 05:40 PM ET (US)
Have you seen the mahogany and aluminum rub rail on runpasthefence`s( Mick) 15 footer. A real touch of class, and yachtlike.
rich
Ablewis posted 08-18-2008 11:11 PM ET (US)
I had ordered and installed a rub rail from Sue last year on my 1990 Montauk. It installed without any problems. I don't recall the length of the screws, but 1/2" does seem short. Did you call and confirm that they were supposed to be 1" or 1/2"?
aNDY
knotflyn posted 08-20-2008 11:23 PM ET (US)
I have not called Sue back, but when I ordered the kit she asked if I wanted rivets or stainless screws. If was not untill I started the project that I realized the screws were too short. I bought some "good" stainless screws 1" and spaced them closer then the old rivets. The 1" screws worked great.
docsout posted 08-22-2008 11:53 PM ET (US)
I am replacing the rail on my 1987, 22' Outrage, any ideas on how to remove old rivets?
revenge78 posted 08-23-2008 12:08 AM ET (US)
I just put a rub rail replacement on my 1978 revenge 19' I was able to use the track that was on the boat with some new screws and repairing where the stern corners had been cracked. The old rivets I just drilled out with a drill slightly bigger than the inside diameter of the hole in the rivet. Then used 1" stainless screws to resecure the track.
I ordered a heat gun on ebay but got anxious so ended up putting a garbage can of hot water on a dolly, put the rub rail in that and then just fed it out of the hot water as I went around the boat. That made the rub rail very soft and easy to insert, and it was a cold day. But, a heat gun is really the way to go to make the job really easy. Then one person can do it without much problem. I bought a new Milwaukee heat gun on ebay for about $39 new in the box. I bought the rub rail material from Barbour Plastics Company. They sell it by the foot and it was a lot less expensive than the kits other places sell. Turns out Barbour makes the stuff. So, anyway, I now have a new red rubrail that really looks nice.
jimh posted 08-23-2008 08:41 AM ET (US)
I am sure many will be interested to hear that you were able to purchase a small quantity of red rub rail directly from Barbour.
seabob4 posted 08-23-2008 01:31 PM ET (US)
Docsout,
Drill the head off by drilling the center of the rivet until the walls of the rivet where the head is located and the head comes right off. Then take a hammer and small drift punch and tap the rivet stems right on through the gunnel. A smaller drill bit can be used for a punch.
docsout posted 08-23-2008 05:13 PM ET (US)
Thanks Seabob4, I'll give that a try. I'm going to contact Barbour plastics this week to order the new rail and track
nitro vinny posted 08-24-2008 10:17 AM ET (US)
I just bought a 38' length of receiver for $73 from fpmarine.com (flounder pounder marine in Cape Canaveral, Fla.)that fits my Newport 17. Haven't installed it yet.
Vince
john williams posted 08-30-2008 11:14 PM ET (US)
I removed the rubrail for some repairs to the gunnels of my 1970 sport. After the repairs were completed I found the the fiberglass was too thin and the 3/16 x 1/2 fivets were pulling through.
I resolved the issue by securing one inch wide 18 gauge stainless steel straps to the gunnels with 5200 adhisive.
I finished up today and was pleased with the results.
The material was scrap from a local machine shop.

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Author	Topic: Rub Rail Replacement
knotflyn	posted 08-08-2008 09:20 PM ET (US) After putting it off for a while, I finally replaced the rub rail on my 1987 Montauk 17. I downloaded the info on rub rails and used it to help the process. I bought the kit from Sue at Twin cities Marine. She is very nice and helpful. The main reason for writing is that I ordered the kit with stainless screws, but they gave me 1/2-inch screws and you need 1-inch screws for the job. For anyone that is thinking about doing their boat, just something to consider when ordering a kit. Also, this is a two man job, the rigid receiver track is tough to work with until you get a few feet screwed in. Bobby
erik selis	posted 08-15-2008 02:36 PM ET (US) Thanks for the info. I also have a rub-rail on it's way from Sue. It's for a 13-ft Sport. Would you also need 1-inch screws for this you think? Erik
Tohsgib	posted 08-15-2008 02:51 PM ET (US) Mine always came with rivets, not screws.
erik selis	posted 08-15-2008 03:04 PM ET (US) Nick, when ordering you can choose between rivets and screws. I chose screws but there was no mention of how long they were. Erik
dg22	posted 08-15-2008 04:35 PM ET (US) I just put a new rub rail on my 13 footer. Definitely a 2 man job. Since it has not been very hot around here I put the rigid track inside my car (in the sun) for a few hours to make it more flexible. I also found using clamps to get it nice and tight to the boat before putting the rivets in really helped. I had problems with my rivet gun so it was a long process. Dave
Blackduck	posted 08-15-2008 05:28 PM ET (US) Rivets are the way to go. They will pull the receiver in nice and tight and keep it there. I question whether screws will continue to hold over time, the laminate is not very thick in this area. Leaving the receiver out in the sun for a week, stretched out, really helps.
frisco pete	posted 08-15-2008 05:34 PM ET (US) Use rivets not screws, the glass is very thin, and not much to bite into, at least on the 13 footer, Rivets will hold, and that`s what was originally used. Must be stainless, and that is what is supplied with the rail kit. rich
frisco pete	posted 08-15-2008 05:40 PM ET (US) Have you seen the mahogany and aluminum rub rail on runpasthefence`s( Mick) 15 footer. A real touch of class, and yachtlike. rich
Ablewis	posted 08-18-2008 11:11 PM ET (US) I had ordered and installed a rub rail from Sue last year on my 1990 Montauk. It installed without any problems. I don't recall the length of the screws, but 1/2" does seem short. Did you call and confirm that they were supposed to be 1" or 1/2"? aNDY
knotflyn	posted 08-20-2008 11:23 PM ET (US) I have not called Sue back, but when I ordered the kit she asked if I wanted rivets or stainless screws. If was not untill I started the project that I realized the screws were too short. I bought some "good" stainless screws 1" and spaced them closer then the old rivets. The 1" screws worked great.
docsout	posted 08-22-2008 11:53 PM ET (US) I am replacing the rail on my 1987, 22' Outrage, any ideas on how to remove old rivets?
revenge78	posted 08-23-2008 12:08 AM ET (US) I just put a rub rail replacement on my 1978 revenge 19' I was able to use the track that was on the boat with some new screws and repairing where the stern corners had been cracked. The old rivets I just drilled out with a drill slightly bigger than the inside diameter of the hole in the rivet. Then used 1" stainless screws to resecure the track. I ordered a heat gun on ebay but got anxious so ended up putting a garbage can of hot water on a dolly, put the rub rail in that and then just fed it out of the hot water as I went around the boat. That made the rub rail very soft and easy to insert, and it was a cold day. But, a heat gun is really the way to go to make the job really easy. Then one person can do it without much problem. I bought a new Milwaukee heat gun on ebay for about $39 new in the box. I bought the rub rail material from Barbour Plastics Company. They sell it by the foot and it was a lot less expensive than the kits other places sell. Turns out Barbour makes the stuff. So, anyway, I now have a new red rubrail that really looks nice.
jimh	posted 08-23-2008 08:41 AM ET (US) I am sure many will be interested to hear that you were able to purchase a small quantity of red rub rail directly from Barbour.
seabob4	posted 08-23-2008 01:31 PM ET (US) Docsout, Drill the head off by drilling the center of the rivet until the walls of the rivet where the head is located and the head comes right off. Then take a hammer and small drift punch and tap the rivet stems right on through the gunnel. A smaller drill bit can be used for a punch.
docsout	posted 08-23-2008 05:13 PM ET (US) Thanks Seabob4, I'll give that a try. I'm going to contact Barbour plastics this week to order the new rail and track
nitro vinny	posted 08-24-2008 10:17 AM ET (US) I just bought a 38' length of receiver for $73 from fpmarine.com (flounder pounder marine in Cape Canaveral, Fla.)that fits my Newport 17. Haven't installed it yet. Vince
john williams	posted 08-30-2008 11:14 PM ET (US) I removed the rubrail for some repairs to the gunnels of my 1970 sport. After the repairs were completed I found the the fiberglass was too thin and the 3/16 x 1/2 fivets were pulling through. I resolved the issue by securing one inch wide 18 gauge stainless steel straps to the gunnels with 5200 adhisive. I finished up today and was pleased with the results. The material was scrap from a local machine shop.