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Author Topic:   Outrage 18 Parts, Restoration, Modification

striperdoc posted 09-26-2008 01:45 PM ET (US)
I have a [1985 Boston Whaler OUTRAGE 18] with a 500-lbs Honda 130-HP motor, custom T-top (dont know weight), and 27-gallon bait well under leaning post. I am trying to do some major restorations and repairs.
--need v connection for bow rail; where can I purchase this?
--need a new rub rail kit. Some of the screws have given way and the side rail appears waterlogged and rotted in some places. Any suggestions?
--I am from New England area and need recommendation on someone who can restore the gel coat. I don't trust myself in doing this and don't have the time.
--I know I am pretty weighted down, especially in the rear with the weight of the motor and the baitwell, but I feel I am taking on too much water over the transom which inevitably goes over the wash well onto the floor and into the bilge area. Do I need to put up something to prevent water from going over the washwell onto the floor? I also am nervous about all the saltwater that is making its way into the fuel tank area. Is this normal? Does it need a bilge?
--Trim tabs--would they help?

Buckda posted 09-26-2008 04:08 PM ET (US)
1.) see: http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/OEM.html
2.) See: http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/OEM.html and contact a good gelcoat/fiberglass repair facility for the repairs to the underlying glass.
3.) Can't help you with the NE area...
4.) Do you operate the boat with the sump plug in or out? I recommend "in"...install a bilge in the sump. Not necessary for the splashwell, but if you are really weighted down, it is a plus. I have twin 90's on my transom and have both areas plugged and a bilge pump in each. That will keep the tank area dry...and yes - having it wet all the time is a concern. Dry it out - pull the deck plates when you store the boat to encourage air circulation.
5.) Yes. I recommend Lenco 12x12 ENS tabs. They work great.
Dave
myakka posted 09-26-2008 04:55 PM ET (US)
First Class Fiberglass, 18 Joseph Street, Kingston,MA 02364
781-585-0957
striperdoc posted 09-26-2008 09:10 PM ET (US)
Thanks guys for the reply everybody on this website has been very helpful and appreciate it, I currently leave the plug in sump area in and currently have a bilge pump in that area, I leave the plugs in the wash well out.
jimh posted 09-26-2008 09:18 PM ET (US)
You've got that giant Honda motor--one of the heaviest in terms of pounds per horsepower--but fortunately the Boston Whaler OUTRAGE 18 is up to the challenge. You boat is stern heavy. Trim Tabs might help you get some stern lift.
Most OUTRAGE 18 boats do not take water over the transom. If they do take water over the transom it is confined to the engine splash well, and it drains back to the sea. If you are getting water into the cockpit and it is coming over the splash well dam, you are much too stern heavy. Jettison that monster Honda outboard and get something more appropriate.
elaelap posted 09-26-2008 11:44 PM ET (US)
Consider trimming your boat by adding 100+ pounds of lead in your anchor locker to balance some of the weight of that big, fine beast of a Honda outboard. Remember that your OR 18 has hundreds and hundreds (in fact, I wish I remembered the exact amount...I think it's in the thousands) of pounds of positive buoyancy, and the added weight way up forward will make a remarkable difference without over-burdening your craft.
Sailors trim their cruising sailboats as they deplete their stores to keep performance standards high. It always amazes me that outboard motorboaters don't adopt the same basic tactic.
Tony
P.S. I used this tactic to trim my classic OR 18 when I added a 90 lb kicker on the transom port-side (my boat already had a relatively heavy Yamaha four stroke main motor). I dealt with a slight list to port caused by the kicker by putting about 70 lbs of lead salmon weights in a bucket which I wedged on the starboard side of my cooler seat forward of the console. If I had needed more trim I would have put further weight in the anchor locker, further out on the "lever", but my small correction worked just fine, I lost the list, and I never took water over the transom, let alone over the splashwell bulkhead. Good luck...trim it out; experiment.
Blackduck posted 09-27-2008 01:43 PM ET (US)
While I agree that the Honda 130 is a heavy motor, it isn't that much heavier than a typical 6 cylinder, 2 cycle 150 @ about 425 pounds or so. What is going on when water is coming over your rear bulkhead?
striperdoc posted 09-27-2008 06:34 PM ET (US)
So I put some weight in the bow maybe 50lbs or so today and it helped more than I thought it would. I am in the process of looking for some lead not sure where to buy it but I think adding more weight will definitely help along with adding some trim tabs when I can. As far as when the water was coming over the rear bulkhead it was more when I was anchored up and esp. if both guys were in the back and on the port side not sure why I have no extra weight on the left. -hjw
LuckyLady posted 09-27-2008 08:47 PM ET (US)
You might consider putting your batteries in the console.
Probably too much hassel at this stage.
I do agree with Dave and the lead weights in the bow locker.
When I did a lot of sailing inter Island here in Hawaii, I would store our Dive tanks in the locker under the forward bunk. The boat rode so much better off the waves going windward. Felt like a wooden hull boat.
Rene'
BabySitter posted 09-28-2008 11:17 PM ET (US)
StriperDoc,
Your 'handle' suggests a Striper fisherman .... if you have a large bait tank, you might consider placing it in the cooler seat spot directly in front of the console.
I fish with a 30 gallon Super Tank in that spot - works well.
JB
djd35de posted 09-29-2008 10:02 PM ET (US)
You could just use sand bags, work great and very cheap.
nitro vinny posted 09-30-2008 07:45 PM ET (US)
A good source of lead is from someone in the radiology field; the small vials of radioactive medicine come in lead cannisters. They throw it away at my son-in-laws hospital.
pglein posted 10-06-2008 05:36 PM ET (US)
I'm very surprised you're having this problem.
My 1984 18' Outrage has a 425# OMC 150hp V6, and a 90# Yamaha 4-Stroke 9.9 Kicker. I also have a modified OEM style stern seat, and a livewell underneath it. This is the 63 gallon fuel tank version. I keep the plug in the sump, but leave the plugs out of the engine well. When at rest, with no one in the boat, only the lower, smaller section of the engine well fills with water, even with the fuel tank full. The rest stays dry. Put a couple people on the rear seat and the engine well fills with water. But it does not come anywhere near coming over the splash dam.
The previous owner fitted a clear plastic splash guard that prevents large amounts of water from spilling over the splash dam, but in the relatively calm conditions that I've so far been out in, I've never once had a wave or following wake come over the splash dam.
The batteries are relocated to the center console, but I honestly don't think that has much of an impact. I also have an 11# claw anchor with 20' of chain and 200' of nylon line in the anchor locker.
You may want to inspect the hull for repairs or holes. I generally dismiss such claims, but there is a chance your hull may be somewhat waterlogged.
If you're having trouble getting on a plane, it's probably the 130hp engine, not the poor weight distribution. My boat with a freshly rebuilt 150hp doesn't exactly give you whiplash. I imagine a 130hp would be significantly slower.
If you want to add weight to the bow, do it with anchor chain, not lead. There's absolutely no good reason to carry around a bunch of useless lead. At least make it something useful. Even if you like to anchor for short periods and want light ground tackle, just throw some extra chain in the bottom of the well. At least you'll have it if you ever need it. Beats the heck out of carrying around lead or sand. Of course, it's a little more expensive, but you can probably get some long link chain second-hand for pretty cheap.

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Author	Topic: Outrage 18 Parts, Restoration, Modification
striperdoc	posted 09-26-2008 01:45 PM ET (US) I have a [1985 Boston Whaler OUTRAGE 18] with a 500-lbs Honda 130-HP motor, custom T-top (dont know weight), and 27-gallon bait well under leaning post. I am trying to do some major restorations and repairs. --need v connection for bow rail; where can I purchase this? --need a new rub rail kit. Some of the screws have given way and the side rail appears waterlogged and rotted in some places. Any suggestions? --I am from New England area and need recommendation on someone who can restore the gel coat. I don't trust myself in doing this and don't have the time. --I know I am pretty weighted down, especially in the rear with the weight of the motor and the baitwell, but I feel I am taking on too much water over the transom which inevitably goes over the wash well onto the floor and into the bilge area. Do I need to put up something to prevent water from going over the washwell onto the floor? I also am nervous about all the saltwater that is making its way into the fuel tank area. Is this normal? Does it need a bilge? --Trim tabs--would they help?
Buckda	posted 09-26-2008 04:08 PM ET (US) 1.) see: http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/OEM.html 2.) See: http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/OEM.html and contact a good gelcoat/fiberglass repair facility for the repairs to the underlying glass. 3.) Can't help you with the NE area... 4.) Do you operate the boat with the sump plug in or out? I recommend "in"...install a bilge in the sump. Not necessary for the splashwell, but if you are really weighted down, it is a plus. I have twin 90's on my transom and have both areas plugged and a bilge pump in each. That will keep the tank area dry...and yes - having it wet all the time is a concern. Dry it out - pull the deck plates when you store the boat to encourage air circulation. 5.) Yes. I recommend Lenco 12x12 ENS tabs. They work great. Dave
myakka	posted 09-26-2008 04:55 PM ET (US) First Class Fiberglass, 18 Joseph Street, Kingston,MA 02364 781-585-0957
striperdoc	posted 09-26-2008 09:10 PM ET (US) Thanks guys for the reply everybody on this website has been very helpful and appreciate it, I currently leave the plug in sump area in and currently have a bilge pump in that area, I leave the plugs in the wash well out.
jimh	posted 09-26-2008 09:18 PM ET (US) You've got that giant Honda motor--one of the heaviest in terms of pounds per horsepower--but fortunately the Boston Whaler OUTRAGE 18 is up to the challenge. You boat is stern heavy. Trim Tabs might help you get some stern lift. Most OUTRAGE 18 boats do not take water over the transom. If they do take water over the transom it is confined to the engine splash well, and it drains back to the sea. If you are getting water into the cockpit and it is coming over the splash well dam, you are much too stern heavy. Jettison that monster Honda outboard and get something more appropriate.
elaelap	posted 09-26-2008 11:44 PM ET (US) Consider trimming your boat by adding 100+ pounds of lead in your anchor locker to balance some of the weight of that big, fine beast of a Honda outboard. Remember that your OR 18 has hundreds and hundreds (in fact, I wish I remembered the exact amount...I think it's in the thousands) of pounds of positive buoyancy, and the added weight way up forward will make a remarkable difference without over-burdening your craft. Sailors trim their cruising sailboats as they deplete their stores to keep performance standards high. It always amazes me that outboard motorboaters don't adopt the same basic tactic. Tony P.S. I used this tactic to trim my classic OR 18 when I added a 90 lb kicker on the transom port-side (my boat already had a relatively heavy Yamaha four stroke main motor). I dealt with a slight list to port caused by the kicker by putting about 70 lbs of lead salmon weights in a bucket which I wedged on the starboard side of my cooler seat forward of the console. If I had needed more trim I would have put further weight in the anchor locker, further out on the "lever", but my small correction worked just fine, I lost the list, and I never took water over the transom, let alone over the splashwell bulkhead. Good luck...trim it out; experiment.
Blackduck	posted 09-27-2008 01:43 PM ET (US) While I agree that the Honda 130 is a heavy motor, it isn't that much heavier than a typical 6 cylinder, 2 cycle 150 @ about 425 pounds or so. What is going on when water is coming over your rear bulkhead?
striperdoc	posted 09-27-2008 06:34 PM ET (US) So I put some weight in the bow maybe 50lbs or so today and it helped more than I thought it would. I am in the process of looking for some lead not sure where to buy it but I think adding more weight will definitely help along with adding some trim tabs when I can. As far as when the water was coming over the rear bulkhead it was more when I was anchored up and esp. if both guys were in the back and on the port side not sure why I have no extra weight on the left. -hjw
LuckyLady	posted 09-27-2008 08:47 PM ET (US) You might consider putting your batteries in the console. Probably too much hassel at this stage. I do agree with Dave and the lead weights in the bow locker. When I did a lot of sailing inter Island here in Hawaii, I would store our Dive tanks in the locker under the forward bunk. The boat rode so much better off the waves going windward. Felt like a wooden hull boat. Rene'
BabySitter	posted 09-28-2008 11:17 PM ET (US) StriperDoc, Your 'handle' suggests a Striper fisherman .... if you have a large bait tank, you might consider placing it in the cooler seat spot directly in front of the console. I fish with a 30 gallon Super Tank in that spot - works well. JB
djd35de	posted 09-29-2008 10:02 PM ET (US) You could just use sand bags, work great and very cheap.
nitro vinny	posted 09-30-2008 07:45 PM ET (US) A good source of lead is from someone in the radiology field; the small vials of radioactive medicine come in lead cannisters. They throw it away at my son-in-laws hospital.
pglein	posted 10-06-2008 05:36 PM ET (US) I'm very surprised you're having this problem. My 1984 18' Outrage has a 425# OMC 150hp V6, and a 90# Yamaha 4-Stroke 9.9 Kicker. I also have a modified OEM style stern seat, and a livewell underneath it. This is the 63 gallon fuel tank version. I keep the plug in the sump, but leave the plugs out of the engine well. When at rest, with no one in the boat, only the lower, smaller section of the engine well fills with water, even with the fuel tank full. The rest stays dry. Put a couple people on the rear seat and the engine well fills with water. But it does not come anywhere near coming over the splash dam. The previous owner fitted a clear plastic splash guard that prevents large amounts of water from spilling over the splash dam, but in the relatively calm conditions that I've so far been out in, I've never once had a wave or following wake come over the splash dam. The batteries are relocated to the center console, but I honestly don't think that has much of an impact. I also have an 11# claw anchor with 20' of chain and 200' of nylon line in the anchor locker. You may want to inspect the hull for repairs or holes. I generally dismiss such claims, but there is a chance your hull may be somewhat waterlogged. If you're having trouble getting on a plane, it's probably the 130hp engine, not the poor weight distribution. My boat with a freshly rebuilt 150hp doesn't exactly give you whiplash. I imagine a 130hp would be significantly slower. If you want to add weight to the bow, do it with anchor chain, not lead. There's absolutely no good reason to carry around a bunch of useless lead. At least make it something useful. Even if you like to anchor for short periods and want light ground tackle, just throw some extra chain in the bottom of the well. At least you'll have it if you ever need it. Beats the heck out of carrying around lead or sand. Of course, it's a little more expensive, but you can probably get some long link chain second-hand for pretty cheap.