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Author Topic:   Evinrude 70 water pump removal
Pierce posted 10-22-2008 01:54 PM ET (US)   Profile for Pierce   Send Email to Pierce  
I need to change the water pump on my "new" 89 Evinrude 70 VRO. What I really need to know is how to disconnect the shifter linkage from underneath the bottom carb. I have deduced that it has the later pin type of connection. This thing is a bear to get at and even see though. No, I don,t have a manual, but I just ordered one from Amazon, so I will have one next week.
contender posted 10-22-2008 02:13 PM ET (US)     Profile for contender  Send Email to contender     
Is it a pin with a cotter pin, they make an extra long needle nose pliers to pull/bend the cotter pin out, There is another tool you will need after you drop the nut, pin, cotter pin, bolt etc. Its a long (24 inch) that has a retractable claw when you depress the other end, it is made for picking up objects in a tight spot (sorry do not know the name of this tool about, 6 dollars) Now you have another 6 bolts on the lower unit (one hides under the skeg) I would replace the entire housing (pump and all), check your lower unit fluid when you have it off easier to work on, do not forget to grease your splines on the drive shaft...good luck
Pierce posted 10-22-2008 03:36 PM ET (US)     Profile for Pierce  Send Email to Pierce     
Well, I just got the linkage disconnected. What a PITA!!! Man I wish it was as easy as my old Yamaha was. I've done this before on my Yamaha so I have somewhat of a clue on how to do this. I just didn't quite understand what I was looking at on that shifter linkage connection and how to disconnect it. But I figured it out. Now for the bolt underneath the trim tab. It looks like it also holds on the zinc block that is recessed in the lower unit. Is this the one that needs to be removed? I have already removed a bolt that was not hidden behind the trim tab. It was just in front of it. I thought that this was the one to remove in the rear but it seems that the front of the lower unit is loose but it is still tight at the rear. Either it is just stuck, or I am still needing to remove that bolt hidden by the trim tab. I'll keep trying!
Pierce posted 10-22-2008 03:54 PM ET (US)     Profile for Pierce  Send Email to Pierce     
Well I got it off!!! After taking the zinc block off and it still wouldn't come loose I looked for some more bolts and I found the one underneath the trim tab after all. Man, they are recessed in there! Thank God the shaft wasn't seized to the crank like that other poor fellows was! It just slid right off. Thanks for the quick help anyway!! Sure love this web site!! Cheers!
crabby posted 10-22-2008 05:34 PM ET (US)     Profile for crabby  Send Email to crabby     
First, you should purchase a factory manual. Well worth it.

Second, compared to removing and replacing the nut/pin combo that holds the linkage together on a late 1980's 150hp OMC motor, the work involved on a 70hp is trivial!

Pierce posted 10-22-2008 06:41 PM ET (US)     Profile for Pierce  Send Email to Pierce     
Talk about trivial! Do a Yamaha. 1 hour job from start to finnish at home! I had to practically remove the VRO pump, control cables, bottom carb, starter, just so I could see what the heck I was doing! The Yamaha all you had to do was undo the threaded couper just above the lower unit(it's exposed), and unbolt 5 bolts and the lower unit comes right off. Piece of cake! Oh well, now it's time to get a water pump kit. Here comes the next thread.

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