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Author Topic:   Refinishing 15' SS

Spider1 posted 10-25-2008 09:08 PM ET (US)
I have just completed stripping my 1985 15'SS of all its wood. I need a little help deciding what the new finish should be. Does anyone know what the original had? Short of that I was thinking of a lighter shade (honey?) with a real shiny varnish or polyurethane. I have all winter to complete and would like to do it right. Any ideas?
dscew posted 10-25-2008 10:56 PM ET (US)
The original finish applied to mahogany by Boston Whaler had no stain. They only applied many coats of varnish.
skred posted 10-27-2008 03:20 PM ET (US)
I just finished my Sport 13 wood. Side rails, and part of console were original, the rest was copied and replace with African Mahogany (An excellent match, but a bit more open grain here and there). I used 1 coat of Mindwax sanding sealer (No Stain), and 5 coats of Minwax Helmsman Semi-Gloss Polyurethane Varnish. Results are beautiful ! No Stain !
dscew posted 10-27-2008 06:16 PM ET (US)
I would use either Captains Class or Flagship (both by Zspar) if using varnish. Flagship has very high UV protection and a beautiful depth. There are lots of options, but get one that's known for durability and UV protection.
PeteB88 posted 10-29-2008 07:09 AM ET (US)
NO stain - there are tons of information from previous threads on this subject in the archives.
Your options are marine epoxy base coats w/ WEST Systems or similar marine product and marine spar varnish. I would guess two coats max of marine epoxy, scuff sanded between coats (simple process) and maybe three coats of spar scuff sanded between coats to prep for next coat. Always use high gloss w/ boat. I use commercial grade sand paper from commercial suppliers, paint or autobody shops - 3M Fre-Cut C weight 120 for the whole job. I rarely go finer but have some 150 and 220 around. With varnish you MUST allow for full cure between coats for best results in my experience. That is determined by testing w/ sand paper - if it gums up, wait when it "powders" you are good to go. Labeling is never 100% regarding cure times and rate.
Mechanical sanders are fine but generally unnecessary for scuff sanding. Remove dust w/ shop vac and tack rags. I use damp terry cloth bath towels.
As regards Minwax Helmsman poly - I talked with a WEST Systems tech rep at the Quiet Water Symposium in East Lansing last winter for quite some time. The symposium is all about canoes, kayaks and similar including you build boats. He said he has had good luck with Helmsman - I have a spray can and a quart on the shelf and think it's pretty okay stuff. However, I would not commit and entire Whaler interior that I stripped to anything but time proven marine epoxy and spar varnish or 100% spar varnish.
my.02
GOod luck

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Author	Topic: Refinishing 15' SS
Spider1	posted 10-25-2008 09:08 PM ET (US) I have just completed stripping my 1985 15'SS of all its wood. I need a little help deciding what the new finish should be. Does anyone know what the original had? Short of that I was thinking of a lighter shade (honey?) with a real shiny varnish or polyurethane. I have all winter to complete and would like to do it right. Any ideas?
dscew	posted 10-25-2008 10:56 PM ET (US) The original finish applied to mahogany by Boston Whaler had no stain. They only applied many coats of varnish.
skred	posted 10-27-2008 03:20 PM ET (US) I just finished my Sport 13 wood. Side rails, and part of console were original, the rest was copied and replace with African Mahogany (An excellent match, but a bit more open grain here and there). I used 1 coat of Mindwax sanding sealer (No Stain), and 5 coats of Minwax Helmsman Semi-Gloss Polyurethane Varnish. Results are beautiful ! No Stain !
dscew	posted 10-27-2008 06:16 PM ET (US) I would use either Captains Class or Flagship (both by Zspar) if using varnish. Flagship has very high UV protection and a beautiful depth. There are lots of options, but get one that's known for durability and UV protection.
PeteB88	posted 10-29-2008 07:09 AM ET (US) NO stain - there are tons of information from previous threads on this subject in the archives. Your options are marine epoxy base coats w/ WEST Systems or similar marine product and marine spar varnish. I would guess two coats max of marine epoxy, scuff sanded between coats (simple process) and maybe three coats of spar scuff sanded between coats to prep for next coat. Always use high gloss w/ boat. I use commercial grade sand paper from commercial suppliers, paint or autobody shops - 3M Fre-Cut C weight 120 for the whole job. I rarely go finer but have some 150 and 220 around. With varnish you MUST allow for full cure between coats for best results in my experience. That is determined by testing w/ sand paper - if it gums up, wait when it "powders" you are good to go. Labeling is never 100% regarding cure times and rate. Mechanical sanders are fine but generally unnecessary for scuff sanding. Remove dust w/ shop vac and tack rags. I use damp terry cloth bath towels. As regards Minwax Helmsman poly - I talked with a WEST Systems tech rep at the Quiet Water Symposium in East Lansing last winter for quite some time. The symposium is all about canoes, kayaks and similar including you build boats. He said he has had good luck with Helmsman - I have a spray can and a quart on the shelf and think it's pretty okay stuff. However, I would not commit and entire Whaler interior that I stripped to anything but time proven marine epoxy and spar varnish or 100% spar varnish. my.02 GOod luck