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ContinuousWave Whaler Moderated Discussion Areas ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods 170 Montauk Fuel Filter
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Author | Topic: 170 Montauk Fuel Filter |
Ferryman |
posted 11-01-2008 05:24 PM ET (US)
Hi. I [plan] to install an additional fuel-water separator on my 170 Montauk with 90HP Mercury. I would be interested in hearing from anyone who has already done this. Thanks in advance AJ |
95Outrage17 |
posted 11-01-2008 10:15 PM ET (US)
Hi AJ, I installed a Racor fuel-water separator under the RPS in a client's 2003 Montauk 170 last winter. Seemed to work great with no reported problems this summer. Their 170 has an 2003 Mercury FOURSTRIKE 90-HP. I often recommend some sort of external fuel-water separator. I think it's a great idea for a little extra protection against fuel related problems. My Outrage 17 has an OMC/BRP cartridge filter and separator that also seems to work well. - Chris |
Ferryman |
posted 11-02-2008 06:11 AM ET (US)
Hi Chris Do you have any photos of the installation? I am thinking of locating it under the leaning post and helmsman seat on a teak panel AJ |
Feejer |
posted 11-02-2008 11:31 AM ET (US)
Not a great photo but you get the point http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj32/LPBagi/Whaler/IMG_1594-1.jpg http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj32/LPBagi/Whaler/P1000332.jpg http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj32/LPBagi/Whaler/P1000351.jpg |
GreatBayNH |
posted 11-02-2008 03:55 PM ET (US)
I had to install a filter when I installed a fuel flow meter. After much debate and opinions from this web site site I ended up installing the water-fuel separator filter under the rear step next to the splash well. Step by step pictures:
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95Outrage17 |
posted 11-02-2008 08:55 PM ET (US)
Hi AJ, Here's a pic of the Racor filter installed on the 170. The filter is just bolted though the side of the RPS with stainless bolts, finish washers on the outside and washers, lock nuts on the inside. I thought it was a good easily accessible location. [IMG]http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a84/95Outrage17/03%20Montauk%20170/IMAGE_026.jpg[/IMG] - Chris |
Ferryman |
posted 11-03-2008 06:58 AM ET (US)
Hi Chris Thats exactly where I am thinking of placing mine. Nice and easy to access so it will not get overlooked Thanks again to everyone for their input |
Ferryman |
posted 11-03-2008 07:44 AM ET (US)
Hi all. I am waiting on a price for the Racor Filter kit but decided to check out the Mercury kit as well. I looked in BassPro and it is like $25 I contacted a UK Mercury agent and here is his reply. Dear Mr. Spencer, Now VAT = 17.5% so £54.26 X 17.5% = £9.50 total £63.76 now multiply by todays exchange rate of 1.61 and the UK equivalant is $102.65 Somebody is making one hell of a profit. Needless to say I will not be buying from the UK dealer |
Ferryman |
posted 11-03-2008 09:58 AM ET (US)
Hi Jeff Is this the unit you used RACOR 320RRAC02 Spin-On Filter Thanks |
swist |
posted 11-03-2008 05:34 PM ET (US)
I put mine in the splash well. Seems a lot more accessible than under the RPS (particularly if you have a big tank). I would also think that under the starboard rear step (via the access hatch in the splash well) has to be a real pain to install and service. |
GreatBayNH |
posted 11-03-2008 06:15 PM ET (US)
quote: A pain to install, perhaps. Cleaner look though in my humble opinion. Service? It's easy to replace the filter and a RACOR fits in there as well. I see changing out the filter once a season. Also keeping the filter out of the splash well keeps it out of the weather and salt air/water. Things to think about.
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Casco Bay Outrage |
posted 11-03-2008 06:51 PM ET (US)
AJ - I have seen Seth's rigging in person. I would go with the inside the compartment location since it protects the filter from water, maintains a clean look in the splash well and RPS, and it is easy to replace the filter. A little more effort on the initial install is all worth it in my opinion. |
Ferryman |
posted 11-04-2008 12:09 PM ET (US)
Well having listend to the various replies and viewed all of the Installations. I am going with Seths method. It involves a little more work but I like the fact that it leaves the RPS and splashwell clear. Thanks to everyone but Chris and Seth in particular for their input. So winter projects are install filter separator and install an engine hourmeter |
GreatBayNH |
posted 11-04-2008 01:22 PM ET (US)
Good luck AJ. The best advise I can give is to measure twice, drill once, and to rig your hoses to the filter OUTSIDE the hatch, then put the final rigged assembly into the hatch. A little pain up front pays off when you can preserve the factory look of your boat. -Seth |
GreatBayNH |
posted 11-04-2008 01:25 PM ET (US)
I should probably give full credit to Warren (MegaBite) for informing me of this method. His dealer installed his this way. He tells me this is how his dealer does many if not all filter installs on Montauk 170s. |
Ridge Runner |
posted 11-04-2008 04:28 PM ET (US)
I always use a stainless steel filterhead, no matter where I may decide to mount it. https://www.surplusunlimited.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD& Product_Code=3516&Category_Code= |
froberts |
posted 11-04-2008 04:50 PM ET (US)
seth's method is a great place to put the filter(mine was put there by the dealer but it usually takes me 30 minutes to replace the filter seeing that there is not enough room for a filter wrench to turn and my hand. If you are using a cut down or special brand of filter wrench please let me know.i feel i should be able to do the job in two minutes every time i start and then frustration sets in |
Ferryman |
posted 11-05-2008 10:31 AM ET (US)
Damn why aint anything ever easy.
I just tried buying 90 degree 1/4NPT to 5/16 hose barb Guess what. Not here in the UK we have BSP (British Standard Pipe Thread, we have NTPF,metric but not NPT) Can anyone point me at a store that sell the right angles barbs shown in Seths setup Thanks |
Ferryman |
posted 11-05-2008 01:38 PM ET (US)
Please ignore the previous post. I got the fittings at the local race shop 1/4 NPT X 3/8 90 degree elbow |
GreatBayNH |
posted 11-05-2008 02:55 PM ET (US)
quote: Two words...HAND TIGHT. I plan on replacing the filter every spring so I hope that doesn't allow enough time for it to corrode on there. |
froberts |
posted 11-05-2008 08:47 PM ET (US)
i do hand tighting but maybe i use excesses force because i dont wont any leaks (paranoid AM I). when it stops turning and is just getting tight do you stop turning or do you get it snug(keep in mine my snug is it wont turn any more by hand) |
swist |
posted 11-06-2008 09:04 AM ET (US)
I never considered that location because the splashwell was so much easier. It's full of rigging anyway, not like you are detracting from its beauty by mounting a fuel filter. |
GreatBayNH |
posted 11-06-2008 10:36 AM ET (US)
froberts, 1/4 turn after the filter makes contact with the base is what I think I've read. I usually just hand tighen though and make sure I can turn the other way without too much effort, then re-tighten to same place. swist, |
GreatBayNH |
posted 11-06-2008 10:38 AM ET (US)
I should have said "deciding factor", not "deciding issue". I know how that word is loathed by many on this site.
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froberts |
posted 11-06-2008 01:51 PM ET (US)
GreatBayNH Thanks for the info, that is a great place for the filter and hopfully the next time i have to replace the filter i will remember the 1/4 rule. |
Ferryman |
posted 11-06-2008 02:35 PM ET (US)
Though I have not mounted my filter yet, I find the cup type filter wrenches used in conjunction with a stubby 3/8" drive ratchet works well on hard to turn filters. |
froberts |
posted 11-06-2008 02:48 PM ET (US)
I tried a cup type to remove my filter and you could not get it around the filter because the filter sits to close to the fiberglass wall,the only option is to use GreatBayNH method of not getting the filter on to tight i tried 5 different filter wrenches that i have and none worked well because you dont have much room. |
GreatBayNH |
posted 11-06-2008 03:14 PM ET (US)
I'll have to try my filter remover tool to see if it works. Mine is a ring type filter wrench. There is room for the wrench band to go around the back of the filter. The unknown is the amount of room to swing the handle around. Of course if you are removing a filter just to throw it away you can always use the age old method of driving a long screwdriver through the filter and turning it with the screwdriver handle. |
Ridge Runner |
posted 11-06-2008 03:43 PM ET (US)
Have you every tried a socket-strap oil filter wrench? Popular with motor cycles in tight places: http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/common/img_pop.jsp?skuId=28802&imgId=0 |
Ridge Runner |
posted 11-06-2008 03:45 PM ET (US)
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/view/oil_filter_strap_wrench/ |
Ferryman |
posted 11-06-2008 05:17 PM ET (US)
Reading the last few posts, I think I may well put a thick 1/4" ruber gasket between filter bracket and hull to ensure I can get a cup type wrench on. It would also damp out some of the vibration in heavy seas |
froberts |
posted 11-06-2008 05:25 PM ET (US)
Ferryman, Thats a great idea,there is plenty of room to move it out a half inch and then you could get a wrench around it easy. I also mark the direction to remove the filter( With a arrow) because it dificult to think which direction to turn when your arm in a crazy position |
L H G |
posted 11-06-2008 06:50 PM ET (US)
Boston Whaler sells completely rigged boats from the factory, with Mercury engines, turn-key so to speak. Ready to run. I think we should assume they know what they and Mercury are doing. Has anybody ever noticed that those boats without built-in fuel tanks, like the Montauk 170, never come equipped with a water spearating fuel filter? And that boats with a built-in tank do. It's not that Whaler is being cheap on the Montauks. They don't need it. When you're running a boat with on-deck red tanks, metal or plastic, a water separating filter is a waste of money and needless rigging clutter and expense. This form of tank doesn't get condensation dripping into it off the tank top surface. If you're concerned that dirt particles may exist in your fuel, keep the engine mounted filter clean. Some EFI engines even have their own water separating filter in case you get bad fuel. Since I bought my first 13, I've been running various size Mercury engines for 40 years on "red" tanks, never a fuel supply related problem. |
froberts |
posted 11-06-2008 07:22 PM ET (US)
i would normally agree,but that was before ethinol was introduced into our gas. I worked on a friends boat a month ago that had a fiberglass tank (98 dauntless 98 60 Evinrude)and the tank and hoses were not ethinol compatable (j1527 Hoses). The tank inside fell apart and there was hose pieces all in the engine filter. When i couldn't fix it for him he took it to a dealer and they told him the same thing i told him. The motor was SHOT! With the new fuel we are using it's better to be safe than sorry. I have boated for thirty years and have never seen fuel problems like i have the last two |
Casco Bay Outrage |
posted 11-06-2008 07:46 PM ET (US)
I have a great deal of respect for Larry and his wealth of knowledge is immense. With that said, we agree (I hope) to disagree on this subject. With the large investment made in a new or recently produced Whaler, I think a $50 filter kit is a small investment to prevent water and crap into the fuel system. My experience with fuel sold by mainland marina's is not good and island suppliers is worse. With the introduction of blended fuel, there is, in my opinion, an additional reason to take this added step. Why Boston Whaler does not install a water separator fuel filter on non-Verado equipped boats is a mistake, in my opinion, but that is a totally different topic and not germane to AJ's post. |
95Outrage17 |
posted 11-06-2008 08:17 PM ET (US)
LHG, You've never seen water in an above deck fuel tank? I can confidently say that most above deck tanks I look in, when they're nearly empty, have some water and often dirt at the bottom. I agree that most boats probably don't need these filters, but I certainly wouldn't call them a waste of money. I recommend these filters to most of my clients because for many of them it's not about the minor cost of such an item, it's about reliability. Anyway that's just my view and experience. - Chris |
SC Joe |
posted 11-06-2008 09:29 PM ET (US)
My '08 170 Montauk/Merc 90 owners manual says in no uncertain terms, to NOT add an additional fuel filter. It says that the additional filter can cause fuel starvation problems. There are 2 separate filters under the cowling. Also, with the small external tanks, it's pretty easy to see condition of the fuel and if it as water contamination. |
GreatBayNH |
posted 11-06-2008 11:36 PM ET (US)
Fuel flow sensors require a filter before the sensor. That was the reason I installed mine. |
Feejer |
posted 11-07-2008 10:27 AM ET (US)
My local dealer puts on fuel filters on every 170 sold. Usually in the splash well. I questioned them about this 2 years ago and was told their is no way the engine will be starved of gas with the proper filter installed. I think its overkill, but for the price of the filter why not have one, better safe than sorry. |
Whalering Since 74 |
posted 11-12-2008 02:34 PM ET (US)
Hi - I own a 2002 17' Montauk with a 90 Merc 4-stroke. I installed a filter under the helm seat on the same side (starboard side) as where the fuel line comes up from the floor. I positioned it so that it doesn't interfere with the placement of the fuel tanks - also under the seat. Placing it under the seat prevents it from being kicked or damaged, or out in the spray, which would be the case if it were located out in the open. I've had no carb problems since installing it. |
GreatBayNH |
posted 11-13-2008 03:25 PM ET (US)
Whalering, do you still have the 6.6 gallon tanks or did you install larger tanks? |
Ferryman |
posted 11-13-2008 04:07 PM ET (US)
Hi Seth Well I have followed your install but added a 5/16 hard rubber pad between filter and the hull to space the filter out. I can get a filter cup wrench on the filter so should not be a probem changing it. Thanks for all your advice. |
Ferryman |
posted 11-13-2008 04:08 PM ET (US)
I should have said splash well NOT hull |
GreatBayNH |
posted 11-14-2008 09:00 PM ET (US)
Well done! Post some pictures! |
jimh |
posted 11-15-2008 09:46 AM ET (US)
As far as I can tell, those who argue that water will accumulate in a fuel tank from condensation due the dew point of air and diurnal temperature variation have never put forth the notion that this phenomenon was based on the type of tank material used. While I do not believe that condensation from diurnal temperature variation is a big source of water in any tank, I don't understand why it would depend on the tank. If it happens in an aluminum tank below the deck, it would happen in a plastic tank above the deck, as I don't see any mechanism in the dew point of air that changes because a fuel tank is made from red plastic. |
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