1973 OUTRAGE 19: Fuel Tank Removal Is Difficult

  ContinuousWave
  Whaler
  Moderated Discussion Areas
  ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
  1973 OUTRAGE 19: Fuel Tank Removal Is Difficult

search | FAQ | profile | register | author help

Author Topic:   1973 OUTRAGE 19: Fuel Tank Removal Is Difficult

Austin Whaler posted 12-16-2008 10:27 AM ET (US)
I have been trying to remove the fuel tank from my 1973 Outrage 19. The tank is empty but I cannot get it to budge from the foam holding it in the cavity. It is the last warm day for a while here in New Hampshire. I want to get the tank out and the boat covered as it is supposed to snow tomorrow. Need advice on how to get it out.
Casco Bay Outrage posted 12-16-2008 10:34 AM ET (US)
Austin =
If you do a search (near New Topic button) on tank removal, you can quickly find several great threads on tips/techniques.

jeffs22outrage posted 12-16-2008 11:38 AM ET (US)
You need to cut or remove the foam that is between the tank and cavity walls. Then with a large pry bar you should be able to pop out tank. If it still will not move, I know some have had to use a come-along winch attached to one end to pull it up and release it. It is a pain either way.
On side note, when using pry bars always use a large piece of wood between the bar and any fiberglass surface you are using for leverage.
Austin Whaler posted 12-16-2008 07:15 PM ET (US)
Thanks for the tip. I got it out. That rotting foam smelled extremely bad. It made me gag.
jeffs22outrage posted 12-16-2008 10:16 PM ET (US)
I know that smell well. That is the smell of progress.
Raaaaay posted 12-17-2008 12:03 PM ET (US)
Austin,
How difficult was removing the console and floor panel? Did the screws removal easily without stripping?
Was it obvious when you had the floor panel removed that your tank was bad and needed replacing?
I think I saw a recent post where someone had purchased a tank from Florida Marine for about $420. Is that [i.e., is that price] correct? How much was shipping?
Austin, I pick up my 19 Outrage in January and I will be following your repairs closely.
Thanks
Ray
cindalyn posted 12-17-2008 12:45 PM ET (US)
Read thru this post & you may get some ideas now that you have the tank out.
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/014506.html
Mine was a 32 gal. tank for a 1993 outrage. As I recall the freight was about $125. FMT has 2 plants. If you can get them to make & ship from the one closest to you it will save you freight.
I did not pay to have FMT paint my tank. I bought special paint and did it myself. If I had to do it again I'd pay and let FMT do it. I did a great job but the cost of the paint and the time it took wasn't worth the difference in cost.
This is a cut & paste from the quote I received from FMT
"...Replacement tank model FMT-34-BWE [1993 17' Outrage]will cost $350 and it will be made from 1/8" Aluminum (we no longer use .090").
- Tank is manufactured out of 5052-H32 Aluminum Alloy.
- Terms are payment in full (we do not accept credit cards).
- Lead-time: 4 weeks after we receive full payment. (3 week min. upon drawing approval)
- Tanks are quoted FOB Henderson, NC or Dexter, MO
- Shipping is not included nor estimated by FMT. Tanks are shipped freight collect.
- This quote is based exclusively on the information contained on drawing.
Revisions and/or variations from this information may invalidate this quote.
- Tanks are quoted with pickup, fill, & vent NPTF fitting welded, and electric sending unit.
- We no longer stock or purchase Wema and Rochester Twin-Site senders.
- To ensure the structural integrity and safety of our product, F.M.T.requires mounting information (via drawing, video, and/or written explanation). F.M.T. engineering will assist in advising acceptable mounting modes should you require it.
- FMT recommends tank to have a fully supported bottom with Â¼Â” neoprene
rubber strips separating tank with support, and tank to be strapped or bracketed down.
- Tank is not designed for high performance use (application 55 MPH or greater)
- Quote valid for 60 days.
- Send payment to:
Florida Marine Tanks, Inc.
PO Box 222980, Hollywood, Fl 33022
Andrew Johnson, Engineering Assistant, 120 Peter Gill Road, Henderson, NC 27537
Phone: 305-620-9030, Fax: 252-438-4094, ajohnson@fmtanks.com
www.floridamarinetanks.com"
___________________________________________
This is a cut & paste from the information on the paint that I used. Jim is great to work with!
"Boat - CeRam-Kote 99M Paint
edboat@aol.com
Jim Edwards
Used to coat aluminum gas tank for boat
Sand aluminum tank well with 40 grit paper then wipe off with ACETOME before painting.
Do not paint if temp is below 55 deg.
Use 3/8" nap roller compatable for epoxy paint
1st coat let dry until tacky but doesn't come off when touched
2nd coat about 2 hours with temperature at about 65 - 70 deg.
You Will need to apply 2 coats of CK 99M. The best preparation for a new tank is to sand blast the tank, if that is not possible the tank must be sanded VERY WELL with 40 grit sandpaper. Wipe down with acetone and apply the first coat of coating then wait until the coating is tacky but will not come off on your finger apply the second coat of coating. Let the coating dry for a day and then put your tank in the boat. A quart of CeRam-Kote will coat 25 sq. ft. at 2 coats

CeRam-Kote 99M can be rolled. I recommend a 3/8 in nap roller to give you the mil age you need. Roll the first coat on well but don't back roll very much as that reduces the mil age on the surface. Apply the second coat approx. 2 hours after the first coat. Us a roller compatible with epoxy. Make sure the temp is above 55 when you apply. The colder the longer between coats. If the temp is around 65 to 70 do the second coat in 2 hours. If you have any questions when you are applying the coating call me. I don't know what other type of primer you will be using but if it is an epoxy it will be OK...."
_________________________________________
This is the information for the foam that I used. I used one quart of foam. You will need 2 quarts for the 19 ft.
US Composites
Phone No. 561-588-1001
Fax No. 561-585-8583
Office Hours - Monday thru Friday 9am to 5pm Eastern Time

Mailing & Physical Address:
5101 Georgia Avenue
West Palm Beach, FL 33405
Ordering:
You can order your products online at our secure site. Orders can be faxed to 561-585-8583 or you may phone your order to 561-588-1001.

4 lb. Density Urethane Foam #0404, 1 Qt. makes 1 cubic Ft. $19.75
Ordered 1 quart Feb. 29, 2008
#435 Polyester resin (use to coat exposed foam surface) ~ $12.50
Ordered 1 Quart Feb. 29, 2008
_____________________________________
Good luck!
cindalyn posted 12-17-2008 01:09 PM ET (US)
Raaaaay, I had no problem taking up the floor on my 17 ft outrage. There is a trick to taking out the tank however.
There was absolutely no sign of problems when I decided to take my tank out. It was just that I was suspecious because the previous owner had been using a portable tank. When I took the fuel sender out I could see the tank was dry and I could see what looked like dry varnish on the inside bottom of the tank. There was absolutely no smell of gas only a 'varnish' smell.
When I got the tank out I wire brushed the bottom of the tank and found numerous pin holes and eventually one opened up to about 1" Dia.
If you have an old boat, be suspecious it paid off for me!
Ron
Austin Whaler posted 12-17-2008 02:45 PM ET (US)
Removing the deck is not hard to do. First remove the 8 screws for the rps, and remove it. then remove the screws along the bottom of the console. I just slid the console off to the side and tied the console to the trailer so that it was leaning up away from the deck plate. The rigging prevents the console from being removed easily. then you need to remove the "shield" that hides the fuel line and fuel fill hose. Remove the fuel line and the fill line, (I had to cut mine, but they were not ethanol safe anyway). Then remove the screws around the deck plate. Then carefully pry it up. It is very heavy, 75 - 100 pounds. there will be around 6 square foam pads that you can just lift up and remove. Most of my corrosion was in the back of the tank. For me it was easy to tell the tank needed to be replaced. The 6 pads were filled with gas/oil. I had to remove plenty of layers of sludge to get to the tank after the pads were gone. To remove the tank you must take off the brackets that lay across the tank. There are two bolts on each side. After taking out the brackets remove as much of the foam as possible then pry out the tank (put a piece of wood between the pry bar and fiberglass), then you hear a nice pop/crunch noise and the tank is out. you just have to finish pulling it around the console if you left it in. The screws all come out pretty easy they are good quality stainless. A couple of them might give you a fight but its not hard to win.
Raaaaay posted 12-18-2008 12:30 PM ET (US)
Ron...thanks for the tank details.
Austin...Thanks for the simplified details on the tank removal, I have read lots of information on tank removal, but your explanation has helped from scaring me away from taking on a tank replacement.
Also, your pics of the empty cavity are great.
Keep up the great work. I pick up my 19' on January 20th, and cant wait to get started.
JOHN W MAYO posted 12-26-2008 05:50 PM ET (US)
I have hear in the past that shipping is very expensive for the tank, (possibly more than having it made), It might be worthwhile to see if you can pick it up at the point of manufacture.

Hop to:

Contact Us | RETURN to ContinuousWave Top Page

Powered by: Ultimate Bulletin Board, Freeware Version 2000
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.

Author	Topic: 1973 OUTRAGE 19: Fuel Tank Removal Is Difficult
Austin Whaler	posted 12-16-2008 10:27 AM ET (US) I have been trying to remove the fuel tank from my 1973 Outrage 19. The tank is empty but I cannot get it to budge from the foam holding it in the cavity. It is the last warm day for a while here in New Hampshire. I want to get the tank out and the boat covered as it is supposed to snow tomorrow. Need advice on how to get it out.
Casco Bay Outrage	posted 12-16-2008 10:34 AM ET (US) Austin = If you do a search (near New Topic button) on tank removal, you can quickly find several great threads on tips/techniques.
jeffs22outrage	posted 12-16-2008 11:38 AM ET (US) You need to cut or remove the foam that is between the tank and cavity walls. Then with a large pry bar you should be able to pop out tank. If it still will not move, I know some have had to use a come-along winch attached to one end to pull it up and release it. It is a pain either way. On side note, when using pry bars always use a large piece of wood between the bar and any fiberglass surface you are using for leverage.
Austin Whaler	posted 12-16-2008 07:15 PM ET (US) Thanks for the tip. I got it out. That rotting foam smelled extremely bad. It made me gag.
jeffs22outrage	posted 12-16-2008 10:16 PM ET (US) I know that smell well. That is the smell of progress.
Raaaaay	posted 12-17-2008 12:03 PM ET (US) Austin, How difficult was removing the console and floor panel? Did the screws removal easily without stripping? Was it obvious when you had the floor panel removed that your tank was bad and needed replacing? I think I saw a recent post where someone had purchased a tank from Florida Marine for about $420. Is that [i.e., is that price] correct? How much was shipping? Austin, I pick up my 19 Outrage in January and I will be following your repairs closely. Thanks Ray
cindalyn	posted 12-17-2008 12:45 PM ET (US) Read thru this post & you may get some ideas now that you have the tank out. http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/014506.html Mine was a 32 gal. tank for a 1993 outrage. As I recall the freight was about $125. FMT has 2 plants. If you can get them to make & ship from the one closest to you it will save you freight. I did not pay to have FMT paint my tank. I bought special paint and did it myself. If I had to do it again I'd pay and let FMT do it. I did a great job but the cost of the paint and the time it took wasn't worth the difference in cost. This is a cut & paste from the quote I received from FMT "...Replacement tank model FMT-34-BWE [1993 17' Outrage]will cost $350 and it will be made from 1/8" Aluminum (we no longer use .090"). - Tank is manufactured out of 5052-H32 Aluminum Alloy. - Terms are payment in full (we do not accept credit cards). - Lead-time: 4 weeks after we receive full payment. (3 week min. upon drawing approval) - Tanks are quoted FOB Henderson, NC or Dexter, MO - Shipping is not included nor estimated by FMT. Tanks are shipped freight collect. - This quote is based exclusively on the information contained on drawing. Revisions and/or variations from this information may invalidate this quote. - Tanks are quoted with pickup, fill, & vent NPTF fitting welded, and electric sending unit. - We no longer stock or purchase Wema and Rochester Twin-Site senders. - To ensure the structural integrity and safety of our product, F.M.T.requires mounting information (via drawing, video, and/or written explanation). F.M.T. engineering will assist in advising acceptable mounting modes should you require it. - FMT recommends tank to have a fully supported bottom with Â¼Â” neoprene rubber strips separating tank with support, and tank to be strapped or bracketed down. - Tank is not designed for high performance use (application 55 MPH or greater) - Quote valid for 60 days. - Send payment to: Florida Marine Tanks, Inc. PO Box 222980, Hollywood, Fl 33022 Andrew Johnson, Engineering Assistant, 120 Peter Gill Road, Henderson, NC 27537 Phone: 305-620-9030, Fax: 252-438-4094, ajohnson@fmtanks.com www.floridamarinetanks.com" ___________________________________________ This is a cut & paste from the information on the paint that I used. Jim is great to work with! "Boat - CeRam-Kote 99M Paint edboat@aol.com Jim Edwards Used to coat aluminum gas tank for boat Sand aluminum tank well with 40 grit paper then wipe off with ACETOME before painting. Do not paint if temp is below 55 deg. Use 3/8" nap roller compatable for epoxy paint 1st coat let dry until tacky but doesn't come off when touched 2nd coat about 2 hours with temperature at about 65 - 70 deg. You Will need to apply 2 coats of CK 99M. The best preparation for a new tank is to sand blast the tank, if that is not possible the tank must be sanded VERY WELL with 40 grit sandpaper. Wipe down with acetone and apply the first coat of coating then wait until the coating is tacky but will not come off on your finger apply the second coat of coating. Let the coating dry for a day and then put your tank in the boat. A quart of CeRam-Kote will coat 25 sq. ft. at 2 coats CeRam-Kote 99M can be rolled. I recommend a 3/8 in nap roller to give you the mil age you need. Roll the first coat on well but don't back roll very much as that reduces the mil age on the surface. Apply the second coat approx. 2 hours after the first coat. Us a roller compatible with epoxy. Make sure the temp is above 55 when you apply. The colder the longer between coats. If the temp is around 65 to 70 do the second coat in 2 hours. If you have any questions when you are applying the coating call me. I don't know what other type of primer you will be using but if it is an epoxy it will be OK...." _________________________________________ This is the information for the foam that I used. I used one quart of foam. You will need 2 quarts for the 19 ft. US Composites Phone No. 561-588-1001 Fax No. 561-585-8583 Office Hours - Monday thru Friday 9am to 5pm Eastern Time Mailing & Physical Address: 5101 Georgia Avenue West Palm Beach, FL 33405 Ordering: You can order your products online at our secure site. Orders can be faxed to 561-585-8583 or you may phone your order to 561-588-1001. 4 lb. Density Urethane Foam #0404, 1 Qt. makes 1 cubic Ft. $19.75 Ordered 1 quart Feb. 29, 2008 #435 Polyester resin (use to coat exposed foam surface) ~ $12.50 Ordered 1 Quart Feb. 29, 2008 _____________________________________ Good luck!
cindalyn	posted 12-17-2008 01:09 PM ET (US) Raaaaay, I had no problem taking up the floor on my 17 ft outrage. There is a trick to taking out the tank however. There was absolutely no sign of problems when I decided to take my tank out. It was just that I was suspecious because the previous owner had been using a portable tank. When I took the fuel sender out I could see the tank was dry and I could see what looked like dry varnish on the inside bottom of the tank. There was absolutely no smell of gas only a 'varnish' smell. When I got the tank out I wire brushed the bottom of the tank and found numerous pin holes and eventually one opened up to about 1" Dia. If you have an old boat, be suspecious it paid off for me! Ron
Austin Whaler	posted 12-17-2008 02:45 PM ET (US) Removing the deck is not hard to do. First remove the 8 screws for the rps, and remove it. then remove the screws along the bottom of the console. I just slid the console off to the side and tied the console to the trailer so that it was leaning up away from the deck plate. The rigging prevents the console from being removed easily. then you need to remove the "shield" that hides the fuel line and fuel fill hose. Remove the fuel line and the fill line, (I had to cut mine, but they were not ethanol safe anyway). Then remove the screws around the deck plate. Then carefully pry it up. It is very heavy, 75 - 100 pounds. there will be around 6 square foam pads that you can just lift up and remove. Most of my corrosion was in the back of the tank. For me it was easy to tell the tank needed to be replaced. The 6 pads were filled with gas/oil. I had to remove plenty of layers of sludge to get to the tank after the pads were gone. To remove the tank you must take off the brackets that lay across the tank. There are two bolts on each side. After taking out the brackets remove as much of the foam as possible then pry out the tank (put a piece of wood between the pry bar and fiberglass), then you hear a nice pop/crunch noise and the tank is out. you just have to finish pulling it around the console if you left it in. The screws all come out pretty easy they are good quality stainless. A couple of them might give you a fight but its not hard to win.
Raaaaay	posted 12-18-2008 12:30 PM ET (US) Ron...thanks for the tank details. Austin...Thanks for the simplified details on the tank removal, I have read lots of information on tank removal, but your explanation has helped from scaring me away from taking on a tank replacement. Also, your pics of the empty cavity are great. Keep up the great work. I pick up my 19' on January 20th, and cant wait to get started.
JOHN W MAYO	posted 12-26-2008 05:50 PM ET (US) I have hear in the past that shipping is very expensive for the tank, (possibly more than having it made), It might be worthwhile to see if you can pick it up at the point of manufacture.