Removing Engine Cowling Decals; Recommended Paint for Engines

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Author Topic:   Removing Engine Cowling Decals; Recommended Paint for Engines

motparts posted 01-23-2009 01:17 PM ET (US)
I have [what was later clarified to be a 1985 Johnson 70-HP], and I want to replace the [decals or appliques] on the engine cover. [What is] the best way to get the old [engine decals] off? Where can I get new [engine decals] for [a 1985] motor?
Also, I want to clean off the grease and re-paint [the motor]. Is there a special type of paint I should use?.
Thanks.
Tohsgib posted 01-23-2009 01:34 PM ET (US)
3m makes a sticker eraser like wheel that you use in a drill. Takes them off quickly w/o maring the paint. Expensive though at like $30 at you local auto paint store. Since you are repainting it you can use a decal or paint removing liquid. Paint I would use Petit or equiv factory paint at about $8 a can. You will need 2-3 if doing the whole engine. Decals for an 1985 are pretty simple. Take a few pics and try e-bay or your local decal shop or pinstripe place. You can probably get them from the dealer but might be over $100. Maybe just get a set of 1987 or 1999's or whatever you find on e-bay.
Tohsgib posted 01-23-2009 01:36 PM ET (US)
Did I misread tht...you have a 1970 85hp or a 1985 70hp? If the 85hp you can probably get the decals on E-Bay or a vintage outbard site. The paint is still available, I assume it is the green bottom and wite cowling? Or is 1970 the brown? If a 1985 then follow my above post.
jeffs22outrage posted 01-23-2009 01:42 PM ET (US)
When I restored by 1974 Evinrude last year I used a hair dryer to peel old decals off. This worked very well. With a little goof off I was able to get all of the adhesive residue off.
Once the decals are off I wet sanded the entire motor hood as well as the motor leg and lower unit with 150 - 200 grit. I wiped the whole thing down with acetone and primed it with Dupli-color self etching epoxy primer. Then I sprayed the everything with 3 coats of a Dupli-color paint that I found that matched the factory color the bested and finished with 3 coats of Duli-color clear coat. The motor turned out amazing. You can find the Dupli-color paints at any automotive supply store.
Tohsgib posted 01-23-2009 01:44 PM ET (US)
Just remeber one thing...older outboards are painted with laquer. If you use enamel over laquer that is fine but if you mix them up and put laquer over enamel it will crack her(alligator like hell).
jeffs22outrage posted 01-23-2009 01:48 PM ET (US)
Here are a couple images:
Before
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/76%20newport/ ?action=view¤t=DSCN4999.jpg

Finished,
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/ 76%20Newport%20Near%20Complete/?action=view¤t=DSC_3640.jpg
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/ 76%20Newport%20Near%20Complete/?action=view¤t=DSC_3639.jpg
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/ 76%20Newport%20Near%20Complete/?action=view¤t=DSC_3629.jpg
lizard posted 01-24-2009 10:58 AM ET (US)
Nice job Jeff. I am in the process of restoring my 1985 Johnson V4 90. I spoke to an established marine shop here about what type of paint to use. They basically said any matching automotive paint. When I queried its durability in salt water applications, they stood their ground
What are your thoughts about the Dupli-color for a salt water application? Does the Dupli-color come in quarts or just spray cans?
I have been all over ebay and the mid-80's mid hp motors seem to be the only decals that are not to be had.
motparts posted 01-24-2009 03:15 PM ET (US)
Yes, I did say that wrong. [The motor is] a 1985 70hp Johnson on a SPORT 15 which I am converting over to a SUPER SPORT. [Changed the topic of discussion to two new topics. Please start a new thread for those two new topics. Thanks--jimh.]
newt posted 01-24-2009 09:13 PM ET (US)
Looks great Jeff, how did you paint the raised letters? Or are they decals?
jeffs22outrage posted 01-25-2009 07:59 PM ET (US)
Lizard,
I would think the dupli-color paint would do fine in saltwater. I have used it on cars here in Michigan where I would venture to say they have seen more salt than some outboards. The paint has held up fine.

Nate,
I painted the raised letters with a very steady hand.
DeeVee posted 02-19-2009 10:44 PM ET (US)
My 200 Suzuki is rigged to an engine hoist as I type this. The lower unit has been removed and is sitting on a stand. The lower cowlings have been removed. The latch levers have been removed. I purchased a nearly pristine top cowling (175 HP decals that I may remove one day and replace with the proper 200 HP decals).
I degreased the engine and pressure washed it. I am now a little over halfway done with the initial sanding.
The steering arm is in relatively good condition, except at the engine end and at the steering connection end. At those locations it is pretty rusty. I am planning on priming all the bare aluminum with zinc chromate primer.
The question I am posing:
Would the zinc chromate primer be suitable for the carbon steel steering arm as well as the aluminum?
My goal is not to make the 1992 vintage engine look brand new- I am just trying to make it look presentable on a pretty decent looking old Outrage. It is a good running (knock on wood) old engine that I feel is worth the work.
Thank you,
Doug Vazquez
Jeff posted 02-19-2009 10:56 PM ET (US)
Doug,
I have always used the self etching epoxy primer and it works on every surface. Your Zinc should as well. Is there a reason you are going with the Zinc?
Tohsgib posted 02-20-2009 10:30 AM ET (US)
Yes there is a reason he is going with zinc...all outboards are primed with it. Regular primer is fine but zinc is pretty much necessary in salt water to resist corrosion. You can use the zinc on steel, just remeber to use a light coat(all over). You just want to be able to see through it. If you lay it on thick it will literally peel off.
gnr posted 02-20-2009 02:07 PM ET (US)
I'd love to see folks go wild on their cowlings much like bikers tend to do on their tins.
Forget the dull factory colors and get creative with an airbrush.
newt posted 02-20-2009 02:33 PM ET (US)
gnr, you are welcome to practice on my cowlings - both in need of a paint job. I'll meet you half way, say Lake Sunapee area?
gnr posted 02-20-2009 04:27 PM ET (US)
Well I'm no artist by any stretch of the imagination but I'll give it a go.
DeeVee posted 02-21-2009 12:52 AM ET (US)
Guys,
Thanks for the replies.
Now on with the sanding- my fingers are getting really stiff. It's a good thing I have most of the tedious sanding done.
Thanks again,
Doug
R T M posted 02-21-2009 07:55 PM ET (US)

forget sanding, Here is an easy way to get the paint off. Sometimes it won`t take the zinc chromite primer off, buts thats OK.
Works on fiberglass hoods too.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c191/floridaboy2053/Whaler%20repair/ paintstripping5.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c191/floridaboy2053/Whaler%20repair/ paintstripping6.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c191/floridaboy2053/Whaler%20repair/ paintstripping7.jpg
rich (Binkie)
lizard posted 02-21-2009 10:34 PM ET (US)
Binkie-
WOW! how toxic is that product?
lizard posted 02-22-2009 10:50 AM ET (US)
Another question- what does it do to rubber and plastic parts?
DeeVee posted 02-22-2009 09:41 PM ET (US)
Rich,
I thought about using a stripper. I did use an automotive stripper on the lower unit and the removable lower cowl, but I did not think about using the pressure washer to clean things up. I scraped and sanded after the stripper loosened things up. I was not real impressed with the stripper, since I had to follow up with scraping and sanding.
I am done with sanding the engine. I have to wipe things down with prep/cleaner, then on to priming.
I will first build a little spray booth in the shop so I don't have overspray landing everywhere. I will do that during evenings this week.
Hopefully I can prime and paint on Saturday, because a friend has invited me on his boat Sunday to fish for salmon in Hood Canal. The blackmouth are biting and my power is hanging on a hoist! It's driving me nuts!
Doug

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Author	Topic: Removing Engine Cowling Decals; Recommended Paint for Engines
motparts	posted 01-23-2009 01:17 PM ET (US) I have [what was later clarified to be a 1985 Johnson 70-HP], and I want to replace the [decals or appliques] on the engine cover. [What is] the best way to get the old [engine decals] off? Where can I get new [engine decals] for [a 1985] motor? Also, I want to clean off the grease and re-paint [the motor]. Is there a special type of paint I should use?. Thanks.
Tohsgib	posted 01-23-2009 01:34 PM ET (US) 3m makes a sticker eraser like wheel that you use in a drill. Takes them off quickly w/o maring the paint. Expensive though at like $30 at you local auto paint store. Since you are repainting it you can use a decal or paint removing liquid. Paint I would use Petit or equiv factory paint at about $8 a can. You will need 2-3 if doing the whole engine. Decals for an 1985 are pretty simple. Take a few pics and try e-bay or your local decal shop or pinstripe place. You can probably get them from the dealer but might be over $100. Maybe just get a set of 1987 or 1999's or whatever you find on e-bay.
Tohsgib	posted 01-23-2009 01:36 PM ET (US) Did I misread tht...you have a 1970 85hp or a 1985 70hp? If the 85hp you can probably get the decals on E-Bay or a vintage outbard site. The paint is still available, I assume it is the green bottom and wite cowling? Or is 1970 the brown? If a 1985 then follow my above post.
jeffs22outrage	posted 01-23-2009 01:42 PM ET (US) When I restored by 1974 Evinrude last year I used a hair dryer to peel old decals off. This worked very well. With a little goof off I was able to get all of the adhesive residue off. Once the decals are off I wet sanded the entire motor hood as well as the motor leg and lower unit with 150 - 200 grit. I wiped the whole thing down with acetone and primed it with Dupli-color self etching epoxy primer. Then I sprayed the everything with 3 coats of a Dupli-color paint that I found that matched the factory color the bested and finished with 3 coats of Duli-color clear coat. The motor turned out amazing. You can find the Dupli-color paints at any automotive supply store.
Tohsgib	posted 01-23-2009 01:44 PM ET (US) Just remeber one thing...older outboards are painted with laquer. If you use enamel over laquer that is fine but if you mix them up and put laquer over enamel it will crack her(alligator like hell).
jeffs22outrage	posted 01-23-2009 01:48 PM ET (US) Here are a couple images: Before http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/76%20newport/ ?action=view¤t=DSCN4999.jpg Finished, http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/ 76%20Newport%20Near%20Complete/?action=view¤t=DSC_3640.jpg http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/ 76%20Newport%20Near%20Complete/?action=view¤t=DSC_3639.jpg http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/ 76%20Newport%20Near%20Complete/?action=view¤t=DSC_3629.jpg
lizard	posted 01-24-2009 10:58 AM ET (US) Nice job Jeff. I am in the process of restoring my 1985 Johnson V4 90. I spoke to an established marine shop here about what type of paint to use. They basically said any matching automotive paint. When I queried its durability in salt water applications, they stood their ground What are your thoughts about the Dupli-color for a salt water application? Does the Dupli-color come in quarts or just spray cans? I have been all over ebay and the mid-80's mid hp motors seem to be the only decals that are not to be had.
motparts	posted 01-24-2009 03:15 PM ET (US) Yes, I did say that wrong. [The motor is] a 1985 70hp Johnson on a SPORT 15 which I am converting over to a SUPER SPORT. [Changed the topic of discussion to two new topics. Please start a new thread for those two new topics. Thanks--jimh.]
newt	posted 01-24-2009 09:13 PM ET (US) Looks great Jeff, how did you paint the raised letters? Or are they decals?
jeffs22outrage	posted 01-25-2009 07:59 PM ET (US) Lizard, I would think the dupli-color paint would do fine in saltwater. I have used it on cars here in Michigan where I would venture to say they have seen more salt than some outboards. The paint has held up fine. Nate, I painted the raised letters with a very steady hand.
DeeVee	posted 02-19-2009 10:44 PM ET (US) My 200 Suzuki is rigged to an engine hoist as I type this. The lower unit has been removed and is sitting on a stand. The lower cowlings have been removed. The latch levers have been removed. I purchased a nearly pristine top cowling (175 HP decals that I may remove one day and replace with the proper 200 HP decals). I degreased the engine and pressure washed it. I am now a little over halfway done with the initial sanding. The steering arm is in relatively good condition, except at the engine end and at the steering connection end. At those locations it is pretty rusty. I am planning on priming all the bare aluminum with zinc chromate primer. The question I am posing: Would the zinc chromate primer be suitable for the carbon steel steering arm as well as the aluminum? My goal is not to make the 1992 vintage engine look brand new- I am just trying to make it look presentable on a pretty decent looking old Outrage. It is a good running (knock on wood) old engine that I feel is worth the work. Thank you, Doug Vazquez
Jeff	posted 02-19-2009 10:56 PM ET (US) Doug, I have always used the self etching epoxy primer and it works on every surface. Your Zinc should as well. Is there a reason you are going with the Zinc?
Tohsgib	posted 02-20-2009 10:30 AM ET (US) Yes there is a reason he is going with zinc...all outboards are primed with it. Regular primer is fine but zinc is pretty much necessary in salt water to resist corrosion. You can use the zinc on steel, just remeber to use a light coat(all over). You just want to be able to see through it. If you lay it on thick it will literally peel off.
gnr	posted 02-20-2009 02:07 PM ET (US) I'd love to see folks go wild on their cowlings much like bikers tend to do on their tins. Forget the dull factory colors and get creative with an airbrush.
newt	posted 02-20-2009 02:33 PM ET (US) gnr, you are welcome to practice on my cowlings - both in need of a paint job. I'll meet you half way, say Lake Sunapee area?
gnr	posted 02-20-2009 04:27 PM ET (US) Well I'm no artist by any stretch of the imagination but I'll give it a go.
DeeVee	posted 02-21-2009 12:52 AM ET (US) Guys, Thanks for the replies. Now on with the sanding- my fingers are getting really stiff. It's a good thing I have most of the tedious sanding done. Thanks again, Doug
R T M	posted 02-21-2009 07:55 PM ET (US) forget sanding, Here is an easy way to get the paint off. Sometimes it won`t take the zinc chromite primer off, buts thats OK. Works on fiberglass hoods too. http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c191/floridaboy2053/Whaler%20repair/ paintstripping5.jpg http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c191/floridaboy2053/Whaler%20repair/ paintstripping6.jpg http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c191/floridaboy2053/Whaler%20repair/ paintstripping7.jpg rich (Binkie)
lizard	posted 02-21-2009 10:34 PM ET (US) Binkie- WOW! how toxic is that product?
lizard	posted 02-22-2009 10:50 AM ET (US) Another question- what does it do to rubber and plastic parts?
DeeVee	posted 02-22-2009 09:41 PM ET (US) Rich, I thought about using a stripper. I did use an automotive stripper on the lower unit and the removable lower cowl, but I did not think about using the pressure washer to clean things up. I scraped and sanded after the stripper loosened things up. I was not real impressed with the stripper, since I had to follow up with scraping and sanding. I am done with sanding the engine. I have to wipe things down with prep/cleaner, then on to priming. I will first build a little spray booth in the shop so I don't have overspray landing everywhere. I will do that during evenings this week. Hopefully I can prime and paint on Saturday, because a friend has invited me on his boat Sunday to fish for salmon in Hood Canal. The blackmouth are biting and my power is hanging on a hoist! It's driving me nuts! Doug