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Author Topic:   Fuel Tank Installation with Foam

dolemite posted 02-26-2009 10:30 AM ET (US)
I have searched the archives and read much about removing and replacing old fuel tanks. Thanks to all who have previously posted on this topic. I am going to replace the fuel tank on my OUTRAGE 22, [and plan to use] the two part foam obtained from US Composites [to fill in the extra space in the fuel tank cavity].
The place I bought my tank from recommended that I only use foam in the front, back, and a small area on the side, as this will allow for more evaporation and result in less corrosion. Should I foam the whole tank or only part of it?
When I removed my old tank I noticed there was a strip of rubber on the bottom of the fuel cavity that ran the length of the tank. There were also very thin, 1/4-inch, and weak flexible pieces of plastic running the length of the bottom portion of the fuel tank. Should I refoam the tank directly to the fuel cavity with nothing else or use the rubber stripping and flexible plastic?
Thank you.
gss036 posted 02-26-2009 01:26 PM ET (US)
Reading this article might be of help. I think I will need to replace tank in the not to distant furture; keep us updated.
Waccamaw Whaler posted 02-26-2009 08:04 PM ET (US)
When I replaced my tank I bought it from Florida Marine Tanks (FMT), the original manufacturer of the Boston Whaler tank. Before I installed it they advised me to reuse the same neoprene strips that were currently in the boat. This included the long strip on the bottom of the tank and the small pieces between the tank and the hold down brackets. Be sure these brackets are attached before you foam the tank so the foam doesn't expand and shift or lift the tank. Also, I was cautioned to use neoprene and not rubber.
I foamed all around the tank rather than leaving an opening for evaporation. I also put a real heavy coat of resin on top of the foam edges to add a hard waterproof shell. I reasoned that with the opening water would surely get between the tank and hull, and I questioned how much evaporation would actually take place with the opening. My problem now is whether or not I get condensation. I don't know if my decision was right or not.
FC posted 02-26-2009 11:42 PM ET (US)
I used the method gss036 referenced on a new aluminum tank I installed.
makoman310 posted 02-27-2009 05:40 PM ET (US)
dolemite--[I] will be [refurbishing] my tank and deck on my OUTRAGE 22 this month, gutting the whole thing, and dropping a 250 VERADO on the [W]haler [D]rive[.] [I] got a quote from [Florida Marine Tanks] for the 77-gallon tank.
[Other than at WEST Marine, where can you] buy the the two-part foam[?]
Waccamaw Whaler posted 02-27-2009 10:59 PM ET (US)
http://www.uscomposites.com/
They're great to work with.
dolemite posted 03-01-2009 10:29 AM ET (US)
I got the two part foam form US Composites - use the four lb density stuff.
I did the job yesterday. Her is what I learned
1-
dolemite posted 03-01-2009 10:36 AM ET (US)
Do not know hat happend above??
1- Make sure the tank is braced good because once the foam gets under the tank it will push it up;
2- when mixing the two part foam use a tall cylindrical container, it mixes much better than say a bowl;
3- make sure to clean the container out immediately after pooring or the left over residue will make the container difficult to use again;
4- also when I started poring the temp was about 79 degrees, on my last poor it was probably in the low 60s, definately noticed a differce in the foam expansion;
5- My tank was about 85-90 gallons and it took the entie 16lb foam kit to get the job done.
Hope this helps anyone else who is going to do the job.
Jason

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Author	Topic: Fuel Tank Installation with Foam
dolemite	posted 02-26-2009 10:30 AM ET (US) I have searched the archives and read much about removing and replacing old fuel tanks. Thanks to all who have previously posted on this topic. I am going to replace the fuel tank on my OUTRAGE 22, [and plan to use] the two part foam obtained from US Composites [to fill in the extra space in the fuel tank cavity]. The place I bought my tank from recommended that I only use foam in the front, back, and a small area on the side, as this will allow for more evaporation and result in less corrosion. Should I foam the whole tank or only part of it? When I removed my old tank I noticed there was a strip of rubber on the bottom of the fuel cavity that ran the length of the tank. There were also very thin, 1/4-inch, and weak flexible pieces of plastic running the length of the bottom portion of the fuel tank. Should I refoam the tank directly to the fuel cavity with nothing else or use the rubber stripping and flexible plastic? Thank you.
gss036	posted 02-26-2009 01:26 PM ET (US) Reading this article might be of help. I think I will need to replace tank in the not to distant furture; keep us updated.
Waccamaw Whaler	posted 02-26-2009 08:04 PM ET (US) When I replaced my tank I bought it from Florida Marine Tanks (FMT), the original manufacturer of the Boston Whaler tank. Before I installed it they advised me to reuse the same neoprene strips that were currently in the boat. This included the long strip on the bottom of the tank and the small pieces between the tank and the hold down brackets. Be sure these brackets are attached before you foam the tank so the foam doesn't expand and shift or lift the tank. Also, I was cautioned to use neoprene and not rubber. I foamed all around the tank rather than leaving an opening for evaporation. I also put a real heavy coat of resin on top of the foam edges to add a hard waterproof shell. I reasoned that with the opening water would surely get between the tank and hull, and I questioned how much evaporation would actually take place with the opening. My problem now is whether or not I get condensation. I don't know if my decision was right or not.
FC	posted 02-26-2009 11:42 PM ET (US) I used the method gss036 referenced on a new aluminum tank I installed.
makoman310	posted 02-27-2009 05:40 PM ET (US) dolemite--[I] will be [refurbishing] my tank and deck on my OUTRAGE 22 this month, gutting the whole thing, and dropping a 250 VERADO on the [W]haler [D]rive[.] [I] got a quote from [Florida Marine Tanks] for the 77-gallon tank. [Other than at WEST Marine, where can you] buy the the two-part foam[?]
Waccamaw Whaler	posted 02-27-2009 10:59 PM ET (US) http://www.uscomposites.com/ They're great to work with.
dolemite	posted 03-01-2009 10:29 AM ET (US) I got the two part foam form US Composites - use the four lb density stuff. I did the job yesterday. Her is what I learned 1-
dolemite	posted 03-01-2009 10:36 AM ET (US) Do not know hat happend above?? 1- Make sure the tank is braced good because once the foam gets under the tank it will push it up; 2- when mixing the two part foam use a tall cylindrical container, it mixes much better than say a bowl; 3- make sure to clean the container out immediately after pooring or the left over residue will make the container difficult to use again; 4- also when I started poring the temp was about 79 degrees, on my last poor it was probably in the low 60s, definately noticed a differce in the foam expansion; 5- My tank was about 85-90 gallons and it took the entie 16lb foam kit to get the job done. Hope this helps anyone else who is going to do the job. Jason