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Author Topic:   Fuel Hoses

maverick posted 03-08-2009 07:17 AM ET (US)
I'm replacing all the under deck fuel hoses on 1990 Guardian 20. I want to use all USCG approved hoses and high grade stainless clamps. [Give me] recommendations on where one would obtain these hoses and clamps. I know places like West Marine carry general boat materials, but these hoses appear to be in a special category. Thanks, Mav
Backlash posted 03-08-2009 09:11 AM ET (US)
Chuck,
West or most other marine stores should have the USCG approved hoses in the sizes you need, just make sure they are "alcohol resistant". The hoses you are replacing are probably not alcohol resistant. Obviously, have them cut a little longer than you think you will need. Get the best SS clamps you can find (type 316) and double-clamp everything.
Steve
tmann45 posted 03-08-2009 09:30 AM ET (US)
You should use USCG A-1 rated hose for your application. And as Steve said, any marine store will know and have it.
tedious posted 03-08-2009 07:14 PM ET (US)
I've had good luck with marineengine.com - carry pretty much anything, speedy service. Just ordered some A1 hose myself.
Tim
weeki wachee whaler posted 03-11-2009 06:59 PM ET (US)
Maverick, I replaced my fuel hoses with USCG A-2 hoses alcohol resistant and somewhat fire resistant.The hoses are thick 3/8 in 3/4 outside. David
maverick posted 03-12-2009 05:01 PM ET (US)
Thanks all for the helpful info. Got it disassembled, floor out, etc...cleaning and replacing everything now.
Hoosier posted 03-14-2009 07:55 PM ET (US)
Take lots of pictures.
Chuck Tribolet posted 03-14-2009 10:35 PM ET (US)
The better hose clamps have an indentation on the strap for
threads rather than slots. For a fuel systems I'd sure use
the better clamps, ESPECIALLY under a deck.
Agree that you should use A1 hose, even though it's not
actually required on an outboard boat.

Chuck
maverick posted 03-15-2009 06:30 AM ET (US)
Thanks Hoosier, Chuck....I've gotten the new USCG hoses and will install this weekend. Have the T-Top off, console out, and floor removed, what a mess underneath. It's all been scrubbed and cleaned, gas tank drained (had a BUNCH of water in it), and have replaced gas tank gasket and polished everything. Will also install new grounding wires. At present I've removed and painstakingly scraped all the old, rotten and questionable wood off the floor bottom (down to the fiberglass skin made by Whaler), and have begun the process of new laminated wood layers to be installed starting next weekend. I'm taking my time to ensure every "i" is dotted and every "t" is crossed. I also added a water drain from the gas tank compartment into the small bilge, starboard rear area....a 1/2" pvc pipe at a slight angle downward. I built a glass channel for water to collect and flow into this tube drain, foamed it in place, and will trim the foam to make it look pretty (can be removed, only foam holding it). PHOTOS at: http://s119.photobucket.com/albums/o147/cweigleatbellsouthdotnet/
makoman310 posted 03-15-2009 09:13 PM ET (US)
[Changed topic to a completely new topic. Please begin a new thread to change the topic to something completely new.--jimh]
jimh posted 03-16-2009 07:52 PM ET (US)
I don't think there is a particular concern about the vendor one ought to purchase USCG rated fuel hose from. West Marine sells USCG rated rubber fuel hoses. There are stainless steel clamps with rubber cushions available. I don't think there is any special grade of clamp needed with a fuel hose. Just use a clamp of sufficiently large size that it does not pinch the hose.
Buckda posted 03-17-2009 01:05 PM ET (US)
Those photos look familiar and bring back memories...my 18 was in similar condition underneath. While you have the deck up, carefully check the fiberglass integrity in the rigging tunnel. I had a weak section that required me to scrape away old, brittle/flaky fiberglass/gelcoat. I re-sealed the entire area with epoxy before I closed her back up.
If you can afford it, consider laminating some aluminum backing plates in strategic locations (i.e. to secure the leaning post and the console/T-top) Now is the time to epoxy that in place, and then you can drill and tap those holes from above, and strengthen the installation of these items.
Something to ponder...I wish I had done this on the back side of my teak deck.
Dave

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Author	Topic: Fuel Hoses
maverick	posted 03-08-2009 07:17 AM ET (US) I'm replacing all the under deck fuel hoses on 1990 Guardian 20. I want to use all USCG approved hoses and high grade stainless clamps. [Give me] recommendations on where one would obtain these hoses and clamps. I know places like West Marine carry general boat materials, but these hoses appear to be in a special category. Thanks, Mav
Backlash	posted 03-08-2009 09:11 AM ET (US) Chuck, West or most other marine stores should have the USCG approved hoses in the sizes you need, just make sure they are "alcohol resistant". The hoses you are replacing are probably not alcohol resistant. Obviously, have them cut a little longer than you think you will need. Get the best SS clamps you can find (type 316) and double-clamp everything. Steve
tmann45	posted 03-08-2009 09:30 AM ET (US) You should use USCG A-1 rated hose for your application. And as Steve said, any marine store will know and have it.
tedious	posted 03-08-2009 07:14 PM ET (US) I've had good luck with marineengine.com - carry pretty much anything, speedy service. Just ordered some A1 hose myself. Tim
weeki wachee whaler	posted 03-11-2009 06:59 PM ET (US) Maverick, I replaced my fuel hoses with USCG A-2 hoses alcohol resistant and somewhat fire resistant.The hoses are thick 3/8 in 3/4 outside. David
maverick	posted 03-12-2009 05:01 PM ET (US) Thanks all for the helpful info. Got it disassembled, floor out, etc...cleaning and replacing everything now.
Hoosier	posted 03-14-2009 07:55 PM ET (US) Take lots of pictures.
Chuck Tribolet	posted 03-14-2009 10:35 PM ET (US) The better hose clamps have an indentation on the strap for threads rather than slots. For a fuel systems I'd sure use the better clamps, ESPECIALLY under a deck. Agree that you should use A1 hose, even though it's not actually required on an outboard boat. Chuck
maverick	posted 03-15-2009 06:30 AM ET (US) Thanks Hoosier, Chuck....I've gotten the new USCG hoses and will install this weekend. Have the T-Top off, console out, and floor removed, what a mess underneath. It's all been scrubbed and cleaned, gas tank drained (had a BUNCH of water in it), and have replaced gas tank gasket and polished everything. Will also install new grounding wires. At present I've removed and painstakingly scraped all the old, rotten and questionable wood off the floor bottom (down to the fiberglass skin made by Whaler), and have begun the process of new laminated wood layers to be installed starting next weekend. I'm taking my time to ensure every "i" is dotted and every "t" is crossed. I also added a water drain from the gas tank compartment into the small bilge, starboard rear area....a 1/2" pvc pipe at a slight angle downward. I built a glass channel for water to collect and flow into this tube drain, foamed it in place, and will trim the foam to make it look pretty (can be removed, only foam holding it). PHOTOS at: http://s119.photobucket.com/albums/o147/cweigleatbellsouthdotnet/
makoman310	posted 03-15-2009 09:13 PM ET (US) [Changed topic to a completely new topic. Please begin a new thread to change the topic to something completely new.--jimh]
jimh	posted 03-16-2009 07:52 PM ET (US) I don't think there is a particular concern about the vendor one ought to purchase USCG rated fuel hose from. West Marine sells USCG rated rubber fuel hoses. There are stainless steel clamps with rubber cushions available. I don't think there is any special grade of clamp needed with a fuel hose. Just use a clamp of sufficiently large size that it does not pinch the hose.
Buckda	posted 03-17-2009 01:05 PM ET (US) Those photos look familiar and bring back memories...my 18 was in similar condition underneath. While you have the deck up, carefully check the fiberglass integrity in the rigging tunnel. I had a weak section that required me to scrape away old, brittle/flaky fiberglass/gelcoat. I re-sealed the entire area with epoxy before I closed her back up. If you can afford it, consider laminating some aluminum backing plates in strategic locations (i.e. to secure the leaning post and the console/T-top) Now is the time to epoxy that in place, and then you can drill and tap those holes from above, and strengthen the installation of these items. Something to ponder...I wish I had done this on the back side of my teak deck. Dave