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  Wax or no wax?

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Author Topic:   Wax or no wax?
27 Black Dog posted 03-09-2009 10:40 AM ET (US)   Profile for 27 Black Dog   Send Email to 27 Black Dog  
I have just finished cleaning off the old lettering on my 27 Walkaround and am prepping the surface to accept the new letters. Is it alright to use acetone to remove the remaining glue or will it mess with the gel coat? I also need a recommendation as to the proper wax to use when I have completed the new lettering?
Tohsgib posted 03-09-2009 10:49 AM ET (US)     Profile for Tohsgib  Send Email to Tohsgib     
Acetone is fine for removing the glue. are letters going to be exact matches? If not I would compound the area first to remove the chalk. Use whatever wax you always use when finished. Car wax or marine wax seems to work the same but marine costs much more.
TransAm posted 03-09-2009 11:10 AM ET (US)     Profile for TransAm    
Everyone seems to have their preference with wax. Many marinas and commercial applicators use this line of products http://www.collinitemarine.com/ . I have had very good results as well. If you are doing an annual application, the Fleetwax (885 paste or 870 bottle) works well. If you have a more thorough cleaning to do, a 2 step application of the 920 cleaner and 925 wax will yeild better results. A machine application will make a big difference as well. Their automotive products are also excellent.
tedious posted 03-09-2009 12:13 PM ET (US)     Profile for tedious    
Acetone will work fine for the sticker residue, but so will a lot of less aggressive solvents, so why mess with the hard stuff? I've found that acetone evaporates so fast that it actually works less well than paint thinner.

If you search around on this site, you'll find a wealth of information on refreshing and waxing your gelcoat. One of my favorites is here: http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/007743.html but there are lots of others.

Tim

andygere posted 03-09-2009 07:11 PM ET (US)     Profile for andygere  Send Email to andygere     
I am using denatured alcohol (DNA) as a cleaning solvent a lot more than acetone, with good results. It should do a pretty good job getting rid of the glue residue. Depending on how much the rest of the hull has oxidized, you may have to do a bit of wet sanding before compound and polish to get rid of the shadows from the old letters. Start with 2000 grit and see if that does the trick, if not, go with 1500, then 2000 then compound then polish. Don't wax before putting the new decals on, and be sure to degrease/clean very carefully after the sanding and polishing. Once the decals are on (I'd let them cure for a day or two) wax with the wax of your choice.
Chuck Tribolet posted 03-09-2009 07:13 PM ET (US)     Profile for Chuck Tribolet  Send Email to Chuck Tribolet     
My experience is that paint remover never quite all evaporates.
If you use paint remover, make a quick final pass with
acetone.

But straight acetone is NASTY stuff.
While the ladies use acetone to take off their silly nail
polish off, what they use isn't pure acetone. It's got some other
stuff in it (I suspect water and lanolin) to make it less
nasty, and that stuff will have a negative impact on how the
numbers stick. What you want to use is the paint department stuff.
I take about a 4" strip of paper towel (Brawny is nice enough
to supply rolls perforated ever 4") and fold it until it's
about a 2" square. I grab it with a hemostat ("roach clip"
to some of you ;-), soak it in acetone, and do what needs
to be done.


Chuck

AZdave posted 03-10-2009 12:34 AM ET (US)     Profile for AZdave  Send Email to AZdave     
Chuck, you must be fond of your liver. The bureaucrats want all acetone to be removed from schools. It might be good to use acetone with good ventilation and gloves that provide some protection.

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