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  My Outrage just got rear ended while towing

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Author Topic:   My Outrage just got rear ended while towing
BBS posted 03-29-2009 01:49 PM ET (US)   Profile for BBS   Send Email to BBS  
I was turning into our subdivision (speed limit 50 mph) towing my 1989 18' Outrage. There was a woman behind me who saw me turning and meant to hit her brakes but stomped on her accelerator instead - she nailed my engine, pushed the trailer up off the ball into my bumper (pushed the bumper into the bed of my truck) and my Whaler came to rest detached from my truck, still on the tralier but slid forward and slightly to port.

The motor mount is broken on both the port and starboard side, all of the hydraulic fluid has leaked out of the trim, the skeg is snapped off (my transom saver split in half) the boat was pushed forward on the trailer...the bow roller is deformed and the metal is bent but the trailer did not contact the bow. There is gelcoat cracked off around the bow eye. The steering won't go to port more than dead center (it locks up).

In my opinion, the 1989 Yamaha 115 is totaled, there is damage to the trailer and the tow vehicle, and the damage around the bow eye. The transom appears to be intact!

The police wrote the other driver a ticket for failure to control speed, so it is all on her. My fear is the insurance company is going to look at a 20 year old boat and motor and I am going to get a fraction of what I think I need to get her back in shape. It is a very pretty boat with very few cosmetic blemishes...and I just restored all of the teak.

Has anyone here dealt with a similar situation who has advice on what to expect? Thanks in advance.

Dan posted 03-29-2009 02:21 PM ET (US)     Profile for Dan  Send Email to Dan     
Wow, sorry to hear about this. I always worry about getting rear ended while towing. Some people drive so close. Get repair estimates for everything and get the insurance company to pay for it. Sounds like 7K of damage.You should get a new lower unit out of all this.
HAPPYJIM posted 03-29-2009 02:22 PM ET (US)     Profile for HAPPYJIM  Send Email to HAPPYJIM     
Find all of the pictures that you have taken of the boat including where the family has been boating. Pictures will show the condition of the boat and will have less effect on the age of her. It's just like a classic car. If you just tell them you want your 20 year old car fixed and not have pictures to show condition, they will be more inclined to give you less that what it is really worth.
Dave Sutton posted 03-29-2009 04:54 PM ET (US)     Profile for Dave Sutton  Send Email to Dave Sutton     
Advice:

Call your attorney.

Take that as advice from someone who really does not like to use attorneys: This is the time to do so. Insurance companies are lots easier to work with when they know you are serious.

Good luck, and sorry for your loss.


Dave

.

L H G posted 03-29-2009 05:33 PM ET (US)     Profile for L H G    
I am in insurance. It sounds like the boat is OK, so there will not be a problem getting the boat damage repairs, nor with the trailer or your tow vehicle.

The 20 year old engine is your problem, as outboards tend to be valued by NADA and others quite low, and are clearly a depreciating item. They will not buy you a new engine. Assuming it's totaled, about the best you are going to get is what you can find an equal condition used 1989 115 Yamaha selling for, which should be higher than NADA. So start getting pricing from boat sites, Craigslist, EBAY, etc to use against them. If you have a value stated for the engine on your own insurance policy, use that, or have your own company pay that value, and then let them subrogate against the offender's company. I would make a claim report to your own company, since you may need them reprresent your interest. Doubt if you need a lawyer.

If you don't buy a replacement, used 115, of same value, you are going to now have to spend additional money for a more expensive replacement engine of some sort. That's just the way it is.

Jefecinco posted 03-29-2009 06:19 PM ET (US)     Profile for Jefecinco  Send Email to Jefecinco     
I'm sorry to hear of your misfortune.

I hope the back and neck pain you are beginning to feel clear up when you get a new engine for your boat and the appropriate repairs to your trailer and truck. Who knows, you may get a settlement check before you have a chance to visit a chiropracter who is associated with an attorney.

That was my experience when I was rear ended by a drunk client of State Farm in a new 1970 Ford LTD I'd owned for less than a week. The first offer was to repair the new car but after talking about back and nect pain they decided a replacement vehicle was in order. I began to feel much better when the new LTD was in my hands again.

Butch

BBS posted 03-30-2009 04:29 AM ET (US)     Profile for BBS  Send Email to BBS     
Yeah, my insurance lists the engine value as $1,836. What about the expense of removing the old engine and installing the replacement...is that covered or is that included in the $1,836?
gbcbu posted 03-30-2009 05:51 AM ET (US)     Profile for gbcbu  Send Email to gbcbu     
Why make a claim with your insurance company? If the other driver is at fault consider getting a lawyer, and sue her for all it is worth to you... yes all that it is worth to you.
This is more likely than not a contingent fee case.

Let the other driver and her insurance company fight about what is and isn't covered...strong argument for your out of pocket losses. Liability is clear it's all about damages IMHO

Jefecinco posted 03-30-2009 09:23 AM ET (US)     Profile for Jefecinco  Send Email to Jefecinco     
Agree you should be dealing with the other insurance company.

As you will find it virtually impossible to replace your engine with a used engine known to be in as good condition as your engine you should get a new one to be made whole.

As your company has no liability they have no incentive to make you a happy camper other than to pay you "book value" for your used engine and actual cost of repair of your boat and trailer minus the deductible. Then you can recover the deductible from the woman who is at fault.

In my experience, admittedly limited to one accident, you'll fare better with the woman's insurance.

Butch

69boo307 posted 03-30-2009 09:28 AM ET (US)     Profile for 69boo307  Send Email to 69boo307     
I disagree, make the claim with YOUR insurance. If it is not your fault they will take care of you and pursue the damages with the other company. That's what you pay premiums for, make your agent do their job.
I had an experience with a totalled vehicle, entirely the other party's fault. Long story short, I filed with my insurance, who was much more pleasant to deal with and gave me an excellent settlement, then litigated the other person's company since it was their fault. This had no effect on my own insurance rates or anything. Insurance companies have teams of lawyers just for this purpose and fight each other for money all the time. Much better than you fighting the other person's company for the money.

Have your agent do what you pay them to do, and take care of you. If you've bought coverage under some 'online' company with no local agent however, you are probably screwed either way. I pay a tad more for my insurance than I could get elsewhere, but I can go walk in my agents office and see them any time I need to.

69boo307 posted 03-30-2009 09:32 AM ET (US)     Profile for 69boo307  Send Email to 69boo307     
BTW, the difference in settlement in the case I mentioned above between what the other insurance company was offering, and what my insurance paid me was about $20k. Again, your agent should look out for your best interest if you have a good one, the other person's agent is looking out for nothing but saving their company money and paying you as little as possible.
Tohsgib posted 03-30-2009 10:34 AM ET (US)     Profile for Tohsgib  Send Email to Tohsgib     
Have your mechanic or local Yamaha dealer give you a estimate.
TransAm posted 03-30-2009 10:41 AM ET (US)     Profile for TransAm  Send Email to TransAm     
I agree with 69, but you should know your insurance carriers policy (written or unwritten) regarding no-fault claims. This may be hard to determine, because it begs the question of your carrier "how will this count against me in the future if I need to make other claims". Although I am pleased with my current carrier-I have a relationship whereby I could ask that question of my agent and get an honest answer-I did deal with a carrier years ago and was effectively canceled after 2 no-fault claims when my rates more than doubled.

Regarding the engine value estimate from your carrier, $1,836 seems reasonable for a 20 year old outboard. NADA lists the engine value at $595-$670. If you're paid the $1836 and your carrier allows you to keep the motor, parting it out may produce some good cash. The other damaged items will have a definitive repair cost and presumably be taken care if in a normal fashion. Getting all Lawyered-up on such a small claim does not make sense; You won't find any reasonable legal talent taking this case on contingency. There is not enough in it for them. A good lawyer will recommend you work through the process and not fork your savings to them. Good Luck.

chopbuster posted 03-30-2009 11:38 PM ET (US)     Profile for chopbuster  Send Email to chopbuster     
If you're in a no-fault state, have limited tort and no
agreed value policy, you'll need to compile receipts
or provide notorized affidavits for all that you've spent
on the boat.

In addition, I would pursue a precautionary full medical
check-up just to be on the safe side, you never know what
may arise later on.

When you insure your new boat, do get an agreed value policy.

weekendwarrior posted 03-31-2009 08:05 AM ET (US)     Profile for weekendwarrior  Send Email to weekendwarrior     
maybe it is too late, but if you think its worth more than blue book then hire a professional appraiser to do his best to come up with a pre wreck value. If you do it soon while the boat is still clean then hopefully it will work in your favor.
elaelap posted 03-31-2009 09:23 AM ET (US)     Profile for elaelap  Send Email to elaelap     
I agree that this is not a case for a lawyer, unless you in fact suffered injuries in the collision. Here in California, most personal injury attys settle property damage claims as a courtesy (without taking a contingency fee for that portion of the case) while working on the usually much more complex injury claim. I don't know how it works in a no-fault jurisdiction, but out here your claim would be made to the other driver's carrier, unless he/she had no insurance or was under-insured, in which case you would make your claim per your own UI/UIM (uninsured/underinsured motorist) policy, and your carrier would then bring a "subrogation" action against the other driver and his/her carrier if they chose to do so.

Good luck.

Tony

ratherwhalering posted 03-31-2009 04:20 PM ET (US)     Profile for ratherwhalering  Send Email to ratherwhalering     
Texas, like California was a "fault" state, last time I looked. This means in California, the at-fault party is responsible for (1) all your out-of-pocket (economic) losses, without any consideration of deductible and (2) the non-economic losses (pain/suffering/emotional distress) without any consideration of deductible, as long as you were wearing your seat belt.

Out-of-pocket (economic) losses includes a reasonable amount to repair damage to your vehicle, boat and trailer, as well as any other reasonably related expense such as cab fare, rental vehicles, medical bills, lost income related to injury, and other incidentals.

Your OPTIONAL automobile Collision coverage does not cover economic/non-econnomic damages, but will cover damage to the vehicle and (sometimes) the attached trailer, subject to your deductible. If you are at fault, you will lose discounts and may be surcharged. If you are not at fault, your insurance company will claim subrogation (recovery) against the at fault party/insurance (and attempt to recover your deductible, if you so request) and should not surcharge or eliminate good driver discounts. You may be non-renewed, however, based on high claim frequency. You will still have to claim the remaining economic and non-economic damages against the at-fault party/insurance carrier.

NOTE: If the other driver is identified, and has no insurance (or not enough insurance) then your OPTIONAL uninsured motorist/underinsured motorist coverages supplements both economic and non-economic damages without regard to deductible, up to the liability in your declarations page.

If you choose to process the claim through your own insurance carrier (1) because you get a better valuation for the damaged property (2) you prefer to work with your own company because they owe you a duty of good faith and fair dealing or (3) it's easier, then look to your own auto policy for vehicle and attached trailer coverage. Look to your boat policy for vessel comprehensive coverage.

Jefecinco posted 03-31-2009 06:05 PM ET (US)     Profile for Jefecinco  Send Email to Jefecinco     
All very interesting. I continue to maintain that in order to make BBS whole he should get a new replacement engine or possibly an authorized factory shop repair to the existing engine to as-new specs for any damage.

Certainly if it was a vehicle which received engine damage there would be no question that it would need to be repaired. The insurance company would not be allowed to issue a check for the perceived value of the engine, it would be repaired unless the entire vehicle was totalled.

Perhaps we can argue that it's the transmission that was damaged rather than the engine. But BBS stated he thought the engine was a total loss.

Butch

BBS posted 03-31-2009 06:36 PM ET (US)     Profile for BBS  Send Email to BBS     
I did a little further inspection. It appears that the impact to the lower unit had the effect of pulling the upper mounting bolts throught the interior of the transom. the washers are cupped pretty bad and there is cracking of the gelcoat. there is also a gap between the transom and the motor mount which indicates how far the washers have "dimpled" into the transom. I'll try and post a hyperlink so you can see....is this serious enough that it cannot be repaired? I'm imagining over sized washers or a stainless plate on the interior of the splashwell.

http://s34.photobucket.com/albums/d136/Bveronneau/?action=view& current=DSCN1541-1.jpg

BBS posted 03-31-2009 06:57 PM ET (US)     Profile for BBS  Send Email to BBS     
I should also mention my trailer looks racked abot 8" - you can see how out of parallel my tires are to the fenders.
jimh posted 04-01-2009 09:06 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
May I offer some advice on the trailer?

Do not underestimate the difficulty and cost of restoring the trailer frame, fenders, and axles to their original condition. Several years ago I had a minor, low speed collision between my trailer fender and an immovable (but hard to see) object. It resulted in the axle alignment being shifted slightly. Although I was insured, I did not file a claim. It was a mistake. I thought I could fix the problem myself for $50 in parts. Over the years, I have spent too much time trying to bang the axle and suspension back to their original positions. In addition, the fender, once bent, never liked to return to its original shape. It has since developed a stress crack that can't be stopped. The fender replacement cost alone is about $150. If they're bent, get new ones.

Be sure that the damage to the trailer is included in your insurance claim, and don't underestimate the cost of proper repairs to restore it.

HAPPYJIM posted 04-01-2009 07:24 PM ET (US)     Profile for HAPPYJIM  Send Email to HAPPYJIM     
8" out of wack is a lot to be out of alignment. I had a dual axle trailer that hit a curb and I took it to a body repair shop and they put it on a frame straightener and fixed it for around $300. I still use it today but the one tire cups after about 500 miles. I would want a replacement trailer to be safe.
Dave Sutton posted 04-01-2009 08:27 PM ET (US)     Profile for Dave Sutton  Send Email to Dave Sutton     
Guys:

The engine is toast.

The trailer is toast.

The transom is damaged.


Any surveyor would declare this a constructive loss and total the entire thing. Once the transom damage comes into the picture, a repair will be more expensive than replacement.


Advice:

(1): Call a Lawyer ASAP. Don't rely on well intentioned advice offered here, get a professional involved.

(2): Get a Surveyor to survey the entire thing.

(3): Deal with the concept of a constructive loss.

(4): Get a check

(5): Either buy it back as salvage and repair it yourself with the proceeds from the check, or buy another boat.


Been in this exact situation with an airplane, and it worked just like this in the end.


Dave

.

ratherwhalering posted 04-03-2009 12:04 PM ET (US)     Profile for ratherwhalering  Send Email to ratherwhalering     
I respectfully disagree with Dave, if this is strictly a property damage matter. Before you involve legal counsel, see what is on the table. If you are not satisfied with the settlement offer, and it makes economic sense, then hire a lawyer to pursue the matter on your behalf.
Tohsgib posted 04-03-2009 12:36 PM ET (US)     Profile for Tohsgib  Send Email to Tohsgib     
Yeah...why would you get a Lawyer if you have not been presented an offer yet. Plus you can haggle with them yourself and save some $$. My father was rearended in his mint 1991 300SEL Merceds with like 185k on it. They wanted to give hime $3k for it which was more than book I think. He finally settled for $5800 within a few days and signed a waiver saying he would not pursue it further.
Ablewis posted 04-03-2009 07:29 PM ET (US)     Profile for Ablewis  Send Email to Ablewis     
If nothing else, you have a fine start to a country western song: My Outrage just got rear ended while towing
Dave Sutton posted 04-03-2009 08:59 PM ET (US)     Profile for Dave Sutton  Send Email to Dave Sutton     
"Yeah...why would you get a Lawyer if you have not been presented an offer yet. Plus you can haggle with them yourself and save some $$."


Probably because a $75 letter from your attorney will set the insurance company to notice that you're not fooling around.

If you don't think it's worth a letter, then don't bother. But having had to put both boat and airplane claims in over the years (in both cases after someone else made a mistake), the few dollars I spent on my friendly family lawyer paid me back 100X in saved time, nonsense, and fair settlements.

Dave

.

fishnship posted 04-03-2009 09:01 PM ET (US)     Profile for fishnship  Send Email to fishnship     
All I know is after reading all these post my back and neck hurts. I would call the lawyer Your ability to settle with the insurance co be it yours or theirs will be greatly enhanced.
TransAm posted 04-03-2009 09:19 PM ET (US)     Profile for TransAm  Send Email to TransAm     
quote:
Probably because a $75 letter from your attorney will set the insurance company to notice that you're not fooling around.

I don't know too many seasoned attorneys who can produce an accurate, meaningful letter for $75. That gets me a 15 minute conversation with mine. That's not even enough time to tell her what happened. Then, if she is not one who deals in this type of case law, its off to Westlaw for research, because the last thing an attorney want's to do is start spouting off without ALL the facts. $300-$500 would get a meaningful letter, unless you have an eager ambulance chaser.

Without any investigative results as to actual damage, nothing is toast, at least not right now.

R T M posted 04-04-2009 12:28 PM ET (US)     Profile for R T M    
I hope you are sure your brake and turn signals on your trailer were working at the time of the crash.

rich

BBS posted 04-05-2009 08:48 AM ET (US)     Profile for BBS  Send Email to BBS     
I always check them before I tow...I have always been paranoid about being stopped by "the man".

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