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Author Topic:   22 REVENGE WT trailer set up

Take Em posted 04-21-2009 03:32 PM ET (US)
I've been wrestling with the configuration of rollers and bunks on our older Revenge trailer. By the looks of it she is as old as the boat, an 87. Needs paint but is structurally sound. Current config is two outboard bunks just inside the chime line(think that is what you call it), two inboard bunks about 12" off the keel and three 12" rollers supporting the bulk of the weight.
Last summer I replaced all the bunks, carpet and keel rollers. The outboard bunks were 2X6 in shape and so they actually blocked the thru hull drain of the starboard sump. The problem I continue to have is with the forward roller of the three main rollers. Prior to the replacement this roller had been practically sawed in half and the steel rod was bent from repeated launchings. So much so that some keel damage was done where the keel was able to contact the trailer. Now with everything replaced and reassembled I am already seeing this same roller taking a beating. I've been really careful in putting the boat back on trailer, just gradually nosing it up.
I'd be interested to hear or see how other Revenge trailers have been configured to ease the launch process.
Thanks
Ablewis posted 04-21-2009 03:53 PM ET (US)
See the reference section on this site:
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/trailering/ I would think you would want more than 3 keel rollers? Too much weight on one of the rollers might have been responsible for bending the pin?
Andy
jimh posted 04-21-2009 04:59 PM ET (US)
How is the winch set up on your trailer?
The position of the winch has to be high enough so that as you are loading the boat the winch strap is pulling the boat forward and slightly upward. If your winch is too low, you will be winching the bow of the boat downward onto the keel roller.
With the winch set up like this the boat won't be held down on the trailer at the bow and it can bounce. To prevent this rig a downhaul from the bow eye to the trailer.
It is also important to have a keel roller rather far forward at the bow. When launch the boat, the buoyancy of the stern will tend to pivot the boat and rotate the bow downward. The keel roller near the bow stops this. It also keeps the Smirk of the bow or the bow pulpit from hitting the winch stand.
If you can show us some images it will be useful in assessing your trailer set up.
Take Em posted 04-21-2009 05:40 PM ET (US)
Thanks guys here are some images. I think the winch is set high enough. Two things I've realized I need to do. First, and I should have mentioned this, I intend to add a roller at each cross member and most notably the front one. Secondly I am questioning the need for four bunks. It makes it unbearable to manually crank the boat up the last few inches and creates the possibility of bouncing that Jim mentioned. 4 bunks create a lot of friction and if there are sufficient keel rollers the two outboard bunks should provide enough stability.
You can see the winch in the 4th or 5th picture and the stern shots show the bunks and the stern roller.
http://s577.photobucket.com/albums/ss211/Jhogan_album/
jimh posted 04-21-2009 06:31 PM ET (US)
A note on the bunk and interference with the clam shell cover over the starboard sump drain:
I have not tried this, but I think the way to eliminate this is to cut a notch in the bunk for the clam shell vent to slide into as the boat is loaded on the trailer. Only a portion of the outer starboard bunk at the very stern end will need to be notched. Or, move the bunks inward to avoid the problem. This takes them off of a flush fit against the runners. If the boat is sitting on the trailer with the bunks really tight against the runners, this may be part of the problem in loading it.
Don't worry about centering too much. If you winch the boat onto the trailer it will tend to center itself. If you drive on or float on, you can wind up off center. If the boat is a slight bit off center after I haul it, I don't worry. After 20 miles on the highway it centers itself. I stop and check the hold downs and adjust as needed.
Another note on bunks:
If I ever get around to working on the bunks, I plan to saw the aft portion of the bunks into two segments, remove about six inches of the bunk, and then install a reinforcement below them to reconnect the two segments. This will create a pocket in the bunks for the purpose of passing through a sling.
When I took my boat to the Pacific northwest, I found that due to the height of the tide in some places, ramps were not particularly favored, and larger boats were put in with slings. I could not get the slings on my boat because of the fit of the bunks flush against the hull the whole length of the aft part of the boat. This caused a panic until I found a ramp, and also had the luck of Irish to get there at high tide, both on the day I launched and the day I loaded two weeks later.
jimh posted 04-21-2009 06:32 PM ET (US)
With your set up, when the boat is on the trailer and ready to go, just drop the inner bunks down off the boat. This will shift all the weight off of them. Then raise them up until they just touch the hull. See what happens with that change.
jechura posted 04-21-2009 09:41 PM ET (US)
Take em, I don't use inner bunks, just the outers and two small bow liner bunks and a bunch of rollers that carry all the weight. I easily launch and retrieve my 22 outrage by my self.
http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/jerrym4/Mics/?action=view& current=IMG_6652.jpg
Take Em posted 04-22-2009 12:26 AM ET (US)
Jerry does an Outrage have the same starboard sump as the Revenge? If so is that starboard bunk notched for the clamshell? I solved the blocked drain by using a 2X4 bunk stacked on the 2X6. It easily slides past the clamshell.
I don't think a Revenge hull will allow those forward bunks but I get the idea. I am going to add rollers and drop the inner bunks as Jum suggested.
Take Em posted 04-22-2009 12:27 AM ET (US)
Jim or Jum one of the two...
jechura posted 04-22-2009 08:49 PM ET (US)
Yes, the Outrage has the same starboard sump. Basically both boats use the same hull with the Revenge differing with the added cuddy cap and other fiberglass attachments. If you are still using those black rollers, get rid of them for stoltz rollers.
http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/jerrym4/Mics/?action=view& current=boat809.jpg
Miestrol posted 04-26-2009 06:37 PM ET (US)
This may be a dumb question, but I am thinking of replacing my Eagle painted bunk trailer under my 22 temptation. Is there a reason why the structure of these Whalers can not stand a roller trailer?
HAPPYJIM posted 04-26-2009 08:24 PM ET (US)
This may answer your question.
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/trailering/trailer.html

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Author	Topic: 22 REVENGE WT trailer set up
Take Em	posted 04-21-2009 03:32 PM ET (US) I've been wrestling with the configuration of rollers and bunks on our older Revenge trailer. By the looks of it she is as old as the boat, an 87. Needs paint but is structurally sound. Current config is two outboard bunks just inside the chime line(think that is what you call it), two inboard bunks about 12" off the keel and three 12" rollers supporting the bulk of the weight. Last summer I replaced all the bunks, carpet and keel rollers. The outboard bunks were 2X6 in shape and so they actually blocked the thru hull drain of the starboard sump. The problem I continue to have is with the forward roller of the three main rollers. Prior to the replacement this roller had been practically sawed in half and the steel rod was bent from repeated launchings. So much so that some keel damage was done where the keel was able to contact the trailer. Now with everything replaced and reassembled I am already seeing this same roller taking a beating. I've been really careful in putting the boat back on trailer, just gradually nosing it up. I'd be interested to hear or see how other Revenge trailers have been configured to ease the launch process. Thanks
Ablewis	posted 04-21-2009 03:53 PM ET (US) See the reference section on this site: http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/trailering/ I would think you would want more than 3 keel rollers? Too much weight on one of the rollers might have been responsible for bending the pin? Andy
jimh	posted 04-21-2009 04:59 PM ET (US) How is the winch set up on your trailer? The position of the winch has to be high enough so that as you are loading the boat the winch strap is pulling the boat forward and slightly upward. If your winch is too low, you will be winching the bow of the boat downward onto the keel roller. With the winch set up like this the boat won't be held down on the trailer at the bow and it can bounce. To prevent this rig a downhaul from the bow eye to the trailer. It is also important to have a keel roller rather far forward at the bow. When launch the boat, the buoyancy of the stern will tend to pivot the boat and rotate the bow downward. The keel roller near the bow stops this. It also keeps the Smirk of the bow or the bow pulpit from hitting the winch stand. If you can show us some images it will be useful in assessing your trailer set up.
Take Em	posted 04-21-2009 05:40 PM ET (US) Thanks guys here are some images. I think the winch is set high enough. Two things I've realized I need to do. First, and I should have mentioned this, I intend to add a roller at each cross member and most notably the front one. Secondly I am questioning the need for four bunks. It makes it unbearable to manually crank the boat up the last few inches and creates the possibility of bouncing that Jim mentioned. 4 bunks create a lot of friction and if there are sufficient keel rollers the two outboard bunks should provide enough stability. You can see the winch in the 4th or 5th picture and the stern shots show the bunks and the stern roller. http://s577.photobucket.com/albums/ss211/Jhogan_album/
jimh	posted 04-21-2009 06:31 PM ET (US) A note on the bunk and interference with the clam shell cover over the starboard sump drain: I have not tried this, but I think the way to eliminate this is to cut a notch in the bunk for the clam shell vent to slide into as the boat is loaded on the trailer. Only a portion of the outer starboard bunk at the very stern end will need to be notched. Or, move the bunks inward to avoid the problem. This takes them off of a flush fit against the runners. If the boat is sitting on the trailer with the bunks really tight against the runners, this may be part of the problem in loading it. Don't worry about centering too much. If you winch the boat onto the trailer it will tend to center itself. If you drive on or float on, you can wind up off center. If the boat is a slight bit off center after I haul it, I don't worry. After 20 miles on the highway it centers itself. I stop and check the hold downs and adjust as needed. Another note on bunks: If I ever get around to working on the bunks, I plan to saw the aft portion of the bunks into two segments, remove about six inches of the bunk, and then install a reinforcement below them to reconnect the two segments. This will create a pocket in the bunks for the purpose of passing through a sling. When I took my boat to the Pacific northwest, I found that due to the height of the tide in some places, ramps were not particularly favored, and larger boats were put in with slings. I could not get the slings on my boat because of the fit of the bunks flush against the hull the whole length of the aft part of the boat. This caused a panic until I found a ramp, and also had the luck of Irish to get there at high tide, both on the day I launched and the day I loaded two weeks later.
jimh	posted 04-21-2009 06:32 PM ET (US) With your set up, when the boat is on the trailer and ready to go, just drop the inner bunks down off the boat. This will shift all the weight off of them. Then raise them up until they just touch the hull. See what happens with that change.
jechura	posted 04-21-2009 09:41 PM ET (US) Take em, I don't use inner bunks, just the outers and two small bow liner bunks and a bunch of rollers that carry all the weight. I easily launch and retrieve my 22 outrage by my self. http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/jerrym4/Mics/?action=view& current=IMG_6652.jpg
Take Em	posted 04-22-2009 12:26 AM ET (US) Jerry does an Outrage have the same starboard sump as the Revenge? If so is that starboard bunk notched for the clamshell? I solved the blocked drain by using a 2X4 bunk stacked on the 2X6. It easily slides past the clamshell. I don't think a Revenge hull will allow those forward bunks but I get the idea. I am going to add rollers and drop the inner bunks as Jum suggested.
Take Em	posted 04-22-2009 12:27 AM ET (US) Jim or Jum one of the two...
jechura	posted 04-22-2009 08:49 PM ET (US) Yes, the Outrage has the same starboard sump. Basically both boats use the same hull with the Revenge differing with the added cuddy cap and other fiberglass attachments. If you are still using those black rollers, get rid of them for stoltz rollers. http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/jerrym4/Mics/?action=view& current=boat809.jpg
Miestrol	posted 04-26-2009 06:37 PM ET (US) This may be a dumb question, but I am thinking of replacing my Eagle painted bunk trailer under my 22 temptation. Is there a reason why the structure of these Whalers can not stand a roller trailer?
HAPPYJIM	posted 04-26-2009 08:24 PM ET (US) This may answer your question. http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/trailering/trailer.html