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Author
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Topic: OUTRAGE 20: Raising Splashwell Dam
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kevin riley |
posted 05-03-2009 10:41 AM ET (US)
[Give me] suggestions to build up the splashwall on the back of my Outrage 20. We don't have much of a boat ramp where I live in northern California, so we launch our boats with a tractor at the beach jetty. Consequently, we sometimes take on a fair amount of water when launching in any swell. I have noticed that other boats, with higher transom and splashwells, seem to take on less water in this situation. This alows for a much smoother, safer launch. What can I do to efectively raise my splashwell without damaging the integrety or cosmetics of the boat?
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jimh
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posted 05-03-2009 11:23 AM ET (US)
The height of the splash well dam in most Boston Whaler OUTRAGE models is not particularly tall. I can see how backing the boat down into large waves during launching could put water aboard. The reason the splash well dam height is so modest is to permit water to easily get out of the cockpit in the event the boat is swamped by a big wave. Of course, the easier for the water to get out, the easier for it to get in, as well.Aggravating this problem on the OUTRAGE 20 is its very wide notched transom, which was designed to allow for twin engines. It is more typical these days that a 20-foot boat would not be designed with a wide notched transom because almost no one would be planning for twin engine installation. You have not given us details of your engine, but I will assume your boat is rigged with a single engine. You can reduce water coming over the transom by blocking off the portion of the transom on either side of the engine with some boards. With some ingenuity and skill in design, it should not be too hard to fabricate some plywood boards that would fill in much of the space on either side of the motor at the transom. This will block most of the water from coming over the transom during launching. |
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Bulldog
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posted 05-03-2009 02:07 PM ET (US)
You have the full width splash well, and it has plywood imbedded on both sides, why not get a piece of Starboard full width about eight inches high. Mount in on the stern side of the splash well about 3" down from top on hinges . This would prevent water or at least very much coming in , but would allow the piece of starboard to hinge down and allow water to exit the boat easily. My 20' Revenge has screws along there with nothing mounted, always wondered why.You could either use a latch or best option spring hinges or some kind of spring to allow the starboard piece to hinge when needed, not requiring you to go to the back of a swamped boat. I saw a video of a Whaler with your transom swamped and gunning the engines emptied the boat in about 5 seconds, pretty neat.....Jack |
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jimh
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posted 05-03-2009 03:19 PM ET (US)
Jack's idea is excellent, and particularly the use of a hinge. If the boards are placed on the aft face of the splash well dam with a hinge, they will resist water coming into the cockpit but will easily fold down to let water out.ASIDE to Jack: As the former owner of your boat, I can tell you the fasteners in the splash well used to hold some cable clamps installed by another previous owner who used them to manage the cables for the outboard harnesses. Instead of filling the holes that were left when I re-rigged the engines, I just filled the holes with fasteners. |
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high sierra
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posted 05-03-2009 08:43 PM ET (US)
Kevin, in the midwest they use back trolling plates that are made of lexan that deflect the waves as they troll backwards for walleye and take on the occasional wave while doing so . Look them up. high sierra |
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dolemite
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posted 05-06-2009 04:21 PM ET (US)
I have the same problem with the 22 outrage I bought about six months ago. I fish in crap weather all the time and the low transom is downright scary out there. I blocked the stern as best I could using aluminum panels cut from the fuel tank I just replaced. Had I not had the aluminum I would have gone with thin starboard (3/8 inch). I hate putting new holes in the boat so I used the ski/tie down eyelets on the stern to hold the sheets of aluminum in place. Then I mounted an L bracket off of some holes that were already in the gunwale to further secure the sheets to the boat. I have fished a couple of times with the boards in place and they do help, but in heavy whitecaps, when drifting broadside, the water still comes in way to easily. I have got some more work to do but the aluminum panels have significantly helped. let us know what you end up doing Jason |