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Author Topic:   Drain Tube Material

HarryWhisman posted 05-08-2009 03:14 AM ET (US)
I'm getting ready for my first attempt at replacing my drain tubes, and after reading several informative posts have decided to go with the ball-peen hammer approach on brass tubing ordered from McMasters.
This article: http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/005685.html
states I need 1" OD, .035" wall thickness brass tubing but when I go to the McMasters website all I find is .032" thickness.
This is what I'm looking at: http://www.mcmaster.com/#7782t153/=1s3jsc
Further the article states that 6' of 1.25" tubing and the o-rings are about $25 and what I have found is 3' of 1" for about $30. Also the sheet on the tubing states that it is not flareable.
Am I looking at the right stuff?
HarryWhisman posted 05-08-2009 03:22 AM ET (US)
How odd. I copied and pasted the link for the tubing yet when I click on my post the line of "Metal Flareability Not Flareable" has been left out.
Oh well-the question remains the same; is this the right stuff?
R T M posted 05-08-2009 07:34 AM ET (US)
The simple and the permanent way would to use PVC
rich/Binkie
jimh posted 05-08-2009 09:24 AM ET (US)
See the FAQ for advice on drain tube replacement:
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/FAQ/#Q12

If you believe the website's software has malfunctioned, please send a detailed description of the situation to the webmaster, me, via email.
The tolerance for the wall thickness of the brass tubing sold by McMaster is 0.004-inch. Tubing specified as 0.032-inch could be as thin as 0.028-inch or as thick as 0.036 inch. I doubt that a variation in the thickness of the tubing by a few thousandths of an inch will have much affect on the tubing in its role as a through-hull drain.
The discussion you mention is five years old. The prices mentioned as being in effect five years ago may have since increased.
The link you give to the tubing product notes that the tubing is "formable."
Tom W Clark posted 05-08-2009 09:33 AM ET (US)
Harry,
The thread you have cited above is five years old. It should not come as a surprise that prices may have changed.
There is no significant difference between .032" and .035", either would be just fine. McMast-Carr sells .032" sidewall brass tubing and that is what I use.
When the vendor notes the brass is not flarable, that is in reference to plumbers using it for flare fitting in plumbing work. It does not refer to boat owners using it for drain tubes.
You will need to anneal the brass to get it to flare more easily.
Here is a slightly newer and more detailed thread on brass drain tubes.
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/009805.html
zotcha posted 05-08-2009 10:38 AM ET (US)
Harry, I have an extra 36 inch piece of brass tubing from McMaster-Carr, ready to be shipped back for a credit on my credit card if you're interested. Also have some 40 or so extra O-rings because the minimum you can buy is a pack of 50.?. I'm in South Carolina, maybe I could save you some shipping. Anyway, McMaster-Carr is great to work with.
BTW, I STUDIED Tom W Clarks reference article, had my buddy with the boat shop review it, and went to work. Ended up pulling all three back out, and reordering more tubing.
Final results with a much more patient friend are less than factory, only ended up with O-rings installed on one end of all four replaced tubes in my classic 15. They are sealed.
It sounded easy by most reports, but I am embarrassed to say how difficult it was. The tool works and is a help, but ultimately is designed for flaring to 90 degree surfaces. Tom's pictures apeared to roll the tube end over, almost encasing the O-ring. We couldn't get the flare over 90 degrees.
Another friend stopped by with 30 years in the jewelry business. There is an art to annealing, overheating, cooling, and quenching. A lot of practice, hence the extra tubing.
I don't mean to discourage you. I am not a perfectionist and consider myself, and usually my resources very handy. This project was not only much more difficult than I expected, but a real Pain In The ARSE!!! zot.
gnr posted 05-08-2009 11:30 AM ET (US)
PVC is your friend.
Both dealers I contacted (including Twin Cities) wanted to sell me "OEM" replacement tubes made of pvc.
Unfortunately they would not work on my Commercial Division produced boat so I just bought a length of appropriately sized schedule 40.
I made the necessary bends in it by heating it up over a propane camp stove and sealed it in place.
Much easier then messing around with flaring tools and o-rings and annealing.
I expect the pvc will outlast the original brass tube that needed replacing because the outer inch and a half came out with the plug one day.
gnr posted 05-08-2009 11:35 AM ET (US)
I think I still have the "EOM" replacement tube made for a 17' I would let go for cheap.
The "EOM" pvc tube is a two piece that is flared on both ends and would look more "finished" then a Mcgivered up tube, depending on how much time and effort one puts into the details of the MG'd tube of course.
jimh posted 05-08-2009 02:21 PM ET (US)
Please read the FAQ. The FAQ contains a link to the article mentioned above.

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Author	Topic: Drain Tube Material
HarryWhisman	posted 05-08-2009 03:14 AM ET (US) I'm getting ready for my first attempt at replacing my drain tubes, and after reading several informative posts have decided to go with the ball-peen hammer approach on brass tubing ordered from McMasters. This article: http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/005685.html states I need 1" OD, .035" wall thickness brass tubing but when I go to the McMasters website all I find is .032" thickness. This is what I'm looking at: http://www.mcmaster.com/#7782t153/=1s3jsc Further the article states that 6' of 1.25" tubing and the o-rings are about $25 and what I have found is 3' of 1" for about $30. Also the sheet on the tubing states that it is not flareable. Am I looking at the right stuff?
HarryWhisman	posted 05-08-2009 03:22 AM ET (US) How odd. I copied and pasted the link for the tubing yet when I click on my post the line of "Metal Flareability Not Flareable" has been left out. Oh well-the question remains the same; is this the right stuff?
R T M	posted 05-08-2009 07:34 AM ET (US) The simple and the permanent way would to use PVC rich/Binkie
jimh	posted 05-08-2009 09:24 AM ET (US) See the FAQ for advice on drain tube replacement: http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/FAQ/#Q12 If you believe the website's software has malfunctioned, please send a detailed description of the situation to the webmaster, me, via email. The tolerance for the wall thickness of the brass tubing sold by McMaster is 0.004-inch. Tubing specified as 0.032-inch could be as thin as 0.028-inch or as thick as 0.036 inch. I doubt that a variation in the thickness of the tubing by a few thousandths of an inch will have much affect on the tubing in its role as a through-hull drain. The discussion you mention is five years old. The prices mentioned as being in effect five years ago may have since increased. The link you give to the tubing product notes that the tubing is "formable."
Tom W Clark	posted 05-08-2009 09:33 AM ET (US) Harry, The thread you have cited above is five years old. It should not come as a surprise that prices may have changed. There is no significant difference between .032" and .035", either would be just fine. McMast-Carr sells .032" sidewall brass tubing and that is what I use. When the vendor notes the brass is not flarable, that is in reference to plumbers using it for flare fitting in plumbing work. It does not refer to boat owners using it for drain tubes. You will need to anneal the brass to get it to flare more easily. Here is a slightly newer and more detailed thread on brass drain tubes. http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/009805.html
zotcha	posted 05-08-2009 10:38 AM ET (US) Harry, I have an extra 36 inch piece of brass tubing from McMaster-Carr, ready to be shipped back for a credit on my credit card if you're interested. Also have some 40 or so extra O-rings because the minimum you can buy is a pack of 50.?. I'm in South Carolina, maybe I could save you some shipping. Anyway, McMaster-Carr is great to work with. BTW, I STUDIED Tom W Clarks reference article, had my buddy with the boat shop review it, and went to work. Ended up pulling all three back out, and reordering more tubing. Final results with a much more patient friend are less than factory, only ended up with O-rings installed on one end of all four replaced tubes in my classic 15. They are sealed. It sounded easy by most reports, but I am embarrassed to say how difficult it was. The tool works and is a help, but ultimately is designed for flaring to 90 degree surfaces. Tom's pictures apeared to roll the tube end over, almost encasing the O-ring. We couldn't get the flare over 90 degrees. Another friend stopped by with 30 years in the jewelry business. There is an art to annealing, overheating, cooling, and quenching. A lot of practice, hence the extra tubing. I don't mean to discourage you. I am not a perfectionist and consider myself, and usually my resources very handy. This project was not only much more difficult than I expected, but a real Pain In The ARSE!!! zot.
gnr	posted 05-08-2009 11:30 AM ET (US) PVC is your friend. Both dealers I contacted (including Twin Cities) wanted to sell me "OEM" replacement tubes made of pvc. Unfortunately they would not work on my Commercial Division produced boat so I just bought a length of appropriately sized schedule 40. I made the necessary bends in it by heating it up over a propane camp stove and sealed it in place. Much easier then messing around with flaring tools and o-rings and annealing. I expect the pvc will outlast the original brass tube that needed replacing because the outer inch and a half came out with the plug one day.
gnr	posted 05-08-2009 11:35 AM ET (US) I think I still have the "EOM" replacement tube made for a 17' I would let go for cheap. The "EOM" pvc tube is a two piece that is flared on both ends and would look more "finished" then a Mcgivered up tube, depending on how much time and effort one puts into the details of the MG'd tube of course.
jimh	posted 05-08-2009 02:21 PM ET (US) Please read the FAQ. The FAQ contains a link to the article mentioned above.