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Author Topic:   Transom Replacement Cost

HarryWhisman posted 05-11-2009 10:22 PM ET (US)
Well my Outrage V-20 is at the boat shop getting some much needed repair and it has been brought to my attention that I may want to tear out the transom and replace it. The boat has always looked to me like it was dropped at the ramp as there was an obvious ugly repair right at the base of the transom. We sand blasted it in preparation for some bottom fixing up and paint, and the patch revealed itself. When we chiseled it off it revealed and very wet transom board. I've always known it was wet because when I drilled some holes last year to mount the kicker bracket, the turnings were damp. Also the inside bottom two washers holding the big outboard are sunk in a little-dry rot the fiberglass man says. Lastly, when blowing off the dust from the sanding I found that when I stuck the blower in some of the screw holes left from the trim tabs, the back sheet of glass would actually puff out and away from the transom board.
I've thought about injecting some git rot in there or maybe some epoxy but of course the problem is that it's wet in there.
The guy says he'll tear it all out, put a new board in there and make it all new again, including gel coat for the top half of the transom and the splash well for $3,000.00!!!
OMG!! Do you guys think that's a good price?
Tom W Clark posted 05-11-2009 11:27 PM ET (US)
Yes, I think that is the price of that job done well.
R T M posted 05-12-2009 07:47 AM ET (US)
If you are handy, The pour a transom works well for a few hundred dollors, but it not easy, and is time consuming.
rich/Binkie
hauptjm posted 05-12-2009 09:48 AM ET (US)
Harry, that's not a small job. There is a lot of work involved in removing the motor, carefully grinding off the old transom (without going through the interior layup), then glassing in the new wood and of course, rebuilding the exterior and shaping that accordingly. Then remounting said engine and whatever various components you currently have attached to the transom.
One advantage you have in the process, is that you get to permanently close any extemporaneous "holes" you may have in you transom. Over the years, transducers, speedometers, bilge outlets, etc. get pushed through older transoms and just create more ingress for water. If I had to do it over, I would have one hole for a bilge pump outlet and it would be raised considerably from where Whaler placed it. I would also try to run the transducer lead up and over the gunwale via a small entrance in one of the rear deck hatches. Simple is nice.
Tohsgib posted 05-12-2009 10:51 AM ET (US)
You usually remove motor and chainsaw out the wood from the top leaving the inside and outside walls still there. Then you pour in a new resin like transom and do final gel work when dry. Should be less than $3k.
TampaTom posted 05-12-2009 04:53 PM ET (US)
Search the Classic Mako site under "seacast" and/or "pour transon". Maybe this will work, http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=3624&SearchTerms=pour,transom
If only a section of the transom was bad, I would try the Seacast. If the rot is more extensive, I would go with a more traditional rebuild.
BBS posted 05-12-2009 05:23 PM ET (US)
My 18' OR got rear ended while towing. The estimate I got for the transom work was $2850 which covered everything you mentioned.
RLwhaler posted 05-12-2009 06:10 PM ET (US)
That's about right for a transom job.

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Author	Topic: Transom Replacement Cost
HarryWhisman	posted 05-11-2009 10:22 PM ET (US) Well my Outrage V-20 is at the boat shop getting some much needed repair and it has been brought to my attention that I may want to tear out the transom and replace it. The boat has always looked to me like it was dropped at the ramp as there was an obvious ugly repair right at the base of the transom. We sand blasted it in preparation for some bottom fixing up and paint, and the patch revealed itself. When we chiseled it off it revealed and very wet transom board. I've always known it was wet because when I drilled some holes last year to mount the kicker bracket, the turnings were damp. Also the inside bottom two washers holding the big outboard are sunk in a little-dry rot the fiberglass man says. Lastly, when blowing off the dust from the sanding I found that when I stuck the blower in some of the screw holes left from the trim tabs, the back sheet of glass would actually puff out and away from the transom board. I've thought about injecting some git rot in there or maybe some epoxy but of course the problem is that it's wet in there. The guy says he'll tear it all out, put a new board in there and make it all new again, including gel coat for the top half of the transom and the splash well for $3,000.00!!! OMG!! Do you guys think that's a good price?
Tom W Clark	posted 05-11-2009 11:27 PM ET (US) Yes, I think that is the price of that job done well.
R T M	posted 05-12-2009 07:47 AM ET (US) If you are handy, The pour a transom works well for a few hundred dollors, but it not easy, and is time consuming. rich/Binkie
hauptjm	posted 05-12-2009 09:48 AM ET (US) Harry, that's not a small job. There is a lot of work involved in removing the motor, carefully grinding off the old transom (without going through the interior layup), then glassing in the new wood and of course, rebuilding the exterior and shaping that accordingly. Then remounting said engine and whatever various components you currently have attached to the transom. One advantage you have in the process, is that you get to permanently close any extemporaneous "holes" you may have in you transom. Over the years, transducers, speedometers, bilge outlets, etc. get pushed through older transoms and just create more ingress for water. If I had to do it over, I would have one hole for a bilge pump outlet and it would be raised considerably from where Whaler placed it. I would also try to run the transducer lead up and over the gunwale via a small entrance in one of the rear deck hatches. Simple is nice.
Tohsgib	posted 05-12-2009 10:51 AM ET (US) You usually remove motor and chainsaw out the wood from the top leaving the inside and outside walls still there. Then you pour in a new resin like transom and do final gel work when dry. Should be less than $3k.
TampaTom	posted 05-12-2009 04:53 PM ET (US) Search the Classic Mako site under "seacast" and/or "pour transon". Maybe this will work, http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=3624&SearchTerms=pour,transom If only a section of the transom was bad, I would try the Seacast. If the rot is more extensive, I would go with a more traditional rebuild.
BBS	posted 05-12-2009 05:23 PM ET (US) My 18' OR got rear ended while towing. The estimate I got for the transom work was $2850 which covered everything you mentioned.
RLwhaler	posted 05-12-2009 06:10 PM ET (US) That's about right for a transom job.