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Author Topic:   Stiff Control Cables

newt posted 06-01-2009 12:08 PM ET (US)
Both sets of control cables for my twin Johnson 150's are quite stiff which makes smooth throttle operation difficult. I disconnected one set of cables at the engine and moved the remote control levers which moved quite nicely. Convinced the problem was on the motor linkage, I poked around and found defective cam roller bushings on both engines. I replaced the $5 parts and hoped that the problem was solved. Unfortunately, the controls are still too stiff.
Before I drop $300+ and an afternoon of time to replace the cables, is there anything else to check? I am assuming that the cables move freely when disconnected, but under load the inner cable digs in to the sheathing.
Both engines are 1992 Johnson 150 ELENC if it matters.
Tohsgib posted 06-01-2009 12:28 PM ET (US)
$300 sounds steep for 4 cables, I think I pay about $45 a cable. It is probaly just one of the 2 cables but while you are in there replace all of them. Count the turns of the old cables so setup is easier. Do one side at a time so you have something to compare it to. once done you will wonder why you waited so long.
outragesteve posted 06-01-2009 02:49 PM ET (US)
I have changed dozens of cables and rigged dozens of boats. Top quality control cables are imperative! Although they may be more expensive, they last longer, the bending radius is smaller,and they hold up much better in salt water.(Stainless vs steel) I highly recommend Morse 33-Supreme cables. They will fit all engines with the proper attaching kits. Good luck!
WHALETEX posted 06-01-2009 05:36 PM ET (US)
If the control feels good when the cables are disconected from the engine and the engine linkages move smoothly when operated by hand with the cables removed, then it may not be the cables. It may just be too much preload on the throttle cables when they are installed.
It has been years since I rigged my last OMC outboard, but I remember there was a specific preload adjustment with the throttle cable thumbwheel back at the engine. If you had the preload too loose the Forward, Nuetral, and Reverse detents at the control seemed mushy, and if the preload was too tight it made the control seem stiff particularly moving between Forward, Neutral and Reverse.
newt posted 06-01-2009 09:54 PM ET (US)
I was figuring on $75 per cable based on a guess at the length and pricing I found online for OEM cables, but looking at the Teleflex Extreme pricing online the cost should come in at much less. All the better Teleflex makes a superior product.
I'll also investigate the pre-load, although I don't believe my factory service manual makes mention of it. The manual only covers side mount single engine controls.
Anyone have a service manual for the dual engine binnacle style OMC control?
WHALETEX posted 06-01-2009 11:57 PM ET (US)
My control is a single OMC binnacle. I think the dual is the same. The adjustment is at the engine end of the throttle cable. I loosen the top screw on the saddle clamp that holds both the throttle and shift cables and turn the wheel to make the cable longer or shorter
I cannot remember if the cable gets longer or shorter at the engine when you advance the throttle, but to reduce the preload you move the adjustment wheel to make the cable move the same as it does when you advance the throttle. If you can't find a manual, you might try an experiment. Adjust the preload one full turn and see what it feels like.
If it feels better, try a half turn more.......
NHHobie posted 06-02-2009 10:31 PM ET (US)
Nate: What length cable are you looking for? I have a set (22') that you can have. Used but in serviceable condition.
Hobie
newt posted 06-03-2009 09:32 AM ET (US)
Thanks for the tips.
Hobie, I appreciate the offer, but if I replace the cables, then all four will be replaced at once. Also, I don't know the length yet.
newt posted 07-20-2009 08:24 AM ET (US)
Follow Up:
Adjusting the cables helped, but not enough. So, I unwrapped the tape and spiral wrap hoping to find the length stamped on the cables, and here is what I found:
http://picasaweb.google.com/newtrevenge/ ThrottleCable?authkey=Gv1sRgCLez8I-pzK3yuwE#5360515682913274610
Hobie, 22' cables is what I need for the starboard engine. I may take you up on that offer!
Phil T posted 07-20-2009 08:31 AM ET (US)
That is not good.
:~)
newt posted 07-20-2009 03:35 PM ET (US)
I went ahead and ordered new Teleflex TFXTREME cables for OMC engines (part # CC636xx). Cost delivered for four new cables (92 feet total) was just over $200 from Boatersland.com, which was the best price I found.
newt posted 08-05-2009 11:48 AM ET (US)
Update: New cables are installed and it turns out the old ones weren't really that bad. Still have some stiffness on one of the engines and I'm convinced its a combination of the control box and the engine linkage.
Anyone have a manual or instructions for OMC dual binnacle controls from circa 1992? I cannot find them anywhere online.
Slick 50 posted 08-05-2009 03:36 PM ET (US)
With the shift/throttle cables unhooked the engine throttle/shift lever mechanism should be easily moved forward and back.
On the side of the engine where the shift/throttle linkage all pivot. There is a large bolt at that pivot point. By removing that linkage bolt you will find a plastic bushing and the contact surfaces of these linkage levers can be lubricated. I have a hunch this may be where your stiffness is coming from. This has been seen on other engines so I could be wrong about your specific engine.
Good luck,
Rick
modenacart posted 08-13-2009 10:57 AM ET (US)
I would open the controls and lubricate them too. I just did that with mine and it made a huge difference.
Conrad posted 08-13-2009 11:11 AM ET (US)
I had a very similar problem with my 90 Johnson SPL. I replaced the remote and the cables, but it was still very stiff to operate. It was very hard to get the engine into forward or reverse. Once it was in gear it seemed to shift easier.
I had my Uncle who used to work on the OMC engines come and take a look. He found out that the linkage in the lower unit was very stiff.
We took off the foot and found that the bushing going into the foot was almost locked up.
I purchased the replacement kit for the linkage on the internet and my uncle helped me do the repair. Now it shifts perfectly (no longer stiff).
If you think this is your problem and need more details. Please update the post. I can dig up exactly what I purchased to fix the problem.
Thanks Carl.

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Author	Topic: Stiff Control Cables
newt	posted 06-01-2009 12:08 PM ET (US) Both sets of control cables for my twin Johnson 150's are quite stiff which makes smooth throttle operation difficult. I disconnected one set of cables at the engine and moved the remote control levers which moved quite nicely. Convinced the problem was on the motor linkage, I poked around and found defective cam roller bushings on both engines. I replaced the $5 parts and hoped that the problem was solved. Unfortunately, the controls are still too stiff. Before I drop $300+ and an afternoon of time to replace the cables, is there anything else to check? I am assuming that the cables move freely when disconnected, but under load the inner cable digs in to the sheathing. Both engines are 1992 Johnson 150 ELENC if it matters.
Tohsgib	posted 06-01-2009 12:28 PM ET (US) $300 sounds steep for 4 cables, I think I pay about $45 a cable. It is probaly just one of the 2 cables but while you are in there replace all of them. Count the turns of the old cables so setup is easier. Do one side at a time so you have something to compare it to. once done you will wonder why you waited so long.
outragesteve	posted 06-01-2009 02:49 PM ET (US) I have changed dozens of cables and rigged dozens of boats. Top quality control cables are imperative! Although they may be more expensive, they last longer, the bending radius is smaller,and they hold up much better in salt water.(Stainless vs steel) I highly recommend Morse 33-Supreme cables. They will fit all engines with the proper attaching kits. Good luck!
WHALETEX	posted 06-01-2009 05:36 PM ET (US) If the control feels good when the cables are disconected from the engine and the engine linkages move smoothly when operated by hand with the cables removed, then it may not be the cables. It may just be too much preload on the throttle cables when they are installed. It has been years since I rigged my last OMC outboard, but I remember there was a specific preload adjustment with the throttle cable thumbwheel back at the engine. If you had the preload too loose the Forward, Nuetral, and Reverse detents at the control seemed mushy, and if the preload was too tight it made the control seem stiff particularly moving between Forward, Neutral and Reverse.
newt	posted 06-01-2009 09:54 PM ET (US) I was figuring on $75 per cable based on a guess at the length and pricing I found online for OEM cables, but looking at the Teleflex Extreme pricing online the cost should come in at much less. All the better Teleflex makes a superior product. I'll also investigate the pre-load, although I don't believe my factory service manual makes mention of it. The manual only covers side mount single engine controls. Anyone have a service manual for the dual engine binnacle style OMC control?
WHALETEX	posted 06-01-2009 11:57 PM ET (US) My control is a single OMC binnacle. I think the dual is the same. The adjustment is at the engine end of the throttle cable. I loosen the top screw on the saddle clamp that holds both the throttle and shift cables and turn the wheel to make the cable longer or shorter I cannot remember if the cable gets longer or shorter at the engine when you advance the throttle, but to reduce the preload you move the adjustment wheel to make the cable move the same as it does when you advance the throttle. If you can't find a manual, you might try an experiment. Adjust the preload one full turn and see what it feels like. If it feels better, try a half turn more.......
NHHobie	posted 06-02-2009 10:31 PM ET (US) Nate: What length cable are you looking for? I have a set (22') that you can have. Used but in serviceable condition. Hobie
newt	posted 06-03-2009 09:32 AM ET (US) Thanks for the tips. Hobie, I appreciate the offer, but if I replace the cables, then all four will be replaced at once. Also, I don't know the length yet.
newt	posted 07-20-2009 08:24 AM ET (US) Follow Up: Adjusting the cables helped, but not enough. So, I unwrapped the tape and spiral wrap hoping to find the length stamped on the cables, and here is what I found: http://picasaweb.google.com/newtrevenge/ ThrottleCable?authkey=Gv1sRgCLez8I-pzK3yuwE#5360515682913274610 Hobie, 22' cables is what I need for the starboard engine. I may take you up on that offer!
Phil T	posted 07-20-2009 08:31 AM ET (US) That is not good. :~)
newt	posted 07-20-2009 03:35 PM ET (US) I went ahead and ordered new Teleflex TFXTREME cables for OMC engines (part # CC636xx). Cost delivered for four new cables (92 feet total) was just over $200 from Boatersland.com, which was the best price I found.
newt	posted 08-05-2009 11:48 AM ET (US) Update: New cables are installed and it turns out the old ones weren't really that bad. Still have some stiffness on one of the engines and I'm convinced its a combination of the control box and the engine linkage. Anyone have a manual or instructions for OMC dual binnacle controls from circa 1992? I cannot find them anywhere online.
Slick 50	posted 08-05-2009 03:36 PM ET (US) With the shift/throttle cables unhooked the engine throttle/shift lever mechanism should be easily moved forward and back. On the side of the engine where the shift/throttle linkage all pivot. There is a large bolt at that pivot point. By removing that linkage bolt you will find a plastic bushing and the contact surfaces of these linkage levers can be lubricated. I have a hunch this may be where your stiffness is coming from. This has been seen on other engines so I could be wrong about your specific engine. Good luck, Rick
modenacart	posted 08-13-2009 10:57 AM ET (US) I would open the controls and lubricate them too. I just did that with mine and it made a huge difference.
Conrad	posted 08-13-2009 11:11 AM ET (US) I had a very similar problem with my 90 Johnson SPL. I replaced the remote and the cables, but it was still very stiff to operate. It was very hard to get the engine into forward or reverse. Once it was in gear it seemed to shift easier. I had my Uncle who used to work on the OMC engines come and take a look. He found out that the linkage in the lower unit was very stiff. We took off the foot and found that the bushing going into the foot was almost locked up. I purchased the replacement kit for the linkage on the internet and my uncle helped me do the repair. Now it shifts perfectly (no longer stiff). If you think this is your problem and need more details. Please update the post. I can dig up exactly what I purchased to fix the problem. Thanks Carl.