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Author Topic:   Gibco Flex Mold.

Ritzyrags posted 06-03-2009 04:33 PM ET (US)
I have been hunting for the matching Whaler nonskid molding material for the 1975 Outrage decking.
After lengthy conversations with Gibco and the ensuing Mass reference;
It was found that this goosebump pattern is not being made.
The closest match would be #332 pattern @ $714.34 for the material plus shipping costs.
I think that I may have to look at a different solution for this nonskid resurfacing.
I have written this post in the possibility that some of us may have some unused molding materials that may be available for relocation.
Itchin posted 06-03-2009 10:06 PM ET (US)
Sounds like you are re-doing the entire deck vs. spot repairing. The gibco works well for spot repairs but would be too much unnecessary work for a whole deck unless you were having to repair a boat to factory specs for some reason. If the original pattern is in decent shape just scuff/prep clean it really well and refinish it with about three light coats. The pattern will show through fine. If its damaged or worn, sand it flat, tape out non-skid sections and roll or spray with grit additive. With proper techniques it will look great.
If you need to spot repair the orignal pattern, there is a technique where you make a mold from the old pattern using some type of spray rubber, then use it like the gibco. Not sure of the spray rubber product, but enough searching online and you will find it.
Ritzyrags posted 06-04-2009 12:44 AM ET (US)
Yes indeed;
In my studies about my next refit stage;
The worst case scenario involved;
Sanding the nonskid flush and to redo with the molding materials..
Some will see this as kind of "over the top" but just possibly;
One of the only options for making the deck "factory" again..
Actually;
My most reasonable approach will be to scrub the tar out of each and every inch of the entire deck and to take action..
Sanding all existing structures except for the nonskid and the medallions will be done.
With the intent of being pragmatic;
I had the possible intent of as you have smartly suggested;
To spray over the skid.
The cracks made by impacts and the small amount of gouges will have to be dealt with.
I have been studying about some materials to make enough imprints to effectuate the repairs.
I think that we are on the right track.
The intent is to make "My Girl"as originally attractive as possible.
The Duratec clear gel additive should be a great ally in making the nonskid surfaces as much repaired as can be.
I will have guessed that Thin will be the word here.
I am also planning to prime the whole areas first..
But then again;
Not on the nonskid pattern...
Itchin posted 06-04-2009 08:33 AM ET (US)
You're on the right track. If you opt to overspray the existing pattern, don't prime and don't worry about the hairline fractures. Even minor gouges will not be that noticable once refinished. I know it sounds like short cutting but trust me. Light coats-yes. It won't be perfect, but it will look good. Theres nothing you can do to repair the hairline fractures that will last anyway unless you opt to do a new non-skid. One option along these lines is to partially sand down, fill with epoxy fairing material add a layer of lightweight cloth and epoxy resin, fair, prime and finish with grit texture. This is the best option if you truly want to fix the fractures and gouges. Although the pattern will be different, it will look factory quality and hold up well. Just alot of work. I've restored several whalers and I do this for a living. I'm a fanatic too, but there is a cost benefit to consider. My customers have been happy with the overspray method.
Ritzyrags posted 06-04-2009 09:37 AM ET (US)
It is good to be chatting with you Itch,
And like I have;
You have done a few repairs.
As you probably have guessed;
I have done body repairs prior to this one and a few boat refits.
This aspect of nonskid repair is rather tedious but not altogether insurmountable.
But ten again a new study to make it right..
The thing is;
I have the patience and determination to use a tooth brush to "get her done" if I have to.
I have posted a quick flash photos of phase one;
Having involved the top sections.
http://img37.imageshack.us/my.php?image=olympusphotos336.jpg
http://img37.imageshack.us/my.php?image=olympusphotos337.jpg
http://img362.imageshack.us/my.php?image=olympusphotos341c.jpg
http://img268.imageshack.us/my.php?image=olympusphotos421.jpg
http://img195.imageshack.us/my.php?image=425d.jpg
Phase two will be the deckings.
Ritzyrags posted 06-04-2009 08:38 PM ET (US)
Further to my last post;
I have been remiss in thanking Hitch for his good advice.
Thanks for giving your valuable input.
egres posted 10-06-2013 02:40 AM ET (US)
Please refer to my link as ritzyrags on the Whalercentral .com to follow my Whaler repairs threads.
Jamesgt727 posted 10-12-2013 07:02 AM ET (US)
Ritzy,
I used the Gibco molds on both of mine (9 &15) and the result was astoundingly factory, I am not aware of your credentials, but it definitely is not a weekend warrior job, and it takes two professional gel people to get it right. Find "bowserimage" on here, he uses those all the time. He's the one that did the work on mine. I still have those molds, but unfortunately they are custom cut for my purposes. This was an expensive process.

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Author	Topic: Gibco Flex Mold.
Ritzyrags	posted 06-03-2009 04:33 PM ET (US) I have been hunting for the matching Whaler nonskid molding material for the 1975 Outrage decking. After lengthy conversations with Gibco and the ensuing Mass reference; It was found that this goosebump pattern is not being made. The closest match would be #332 pattern @ $714.34 for the material plus shipping costs. I think that I may have to look at a different solution for this nonskid resurfacing. I have written this post in the possibility that some of us may have some unused molding materials that may be available for relocation.
Itchin	posted 06-03-2009 10:06 PM ET (US) Sounds like you are re-doing the entire deck vs. spot repairing. The gibco works well for spot repairs but would be too much unnecessary work for a whole deck unless you were having to repair a boat to factory specs for some reason. If the original pattern is in decent shape just scuff/prep clean it really well and refinish it with about three light coats. The pattern will show through fine. If its damaged or worn, sand it flat, tape out non-skid sections and roll or spray with grit additive. With proper techniques it will look great. If you need to spot repair the orignal pattern, there is a technique where you make a mold from the old pattern using some type of spray rubber, then use it like the gibco. Not sure of the spray rubber product, but enough searching online and you will find it.
Ritzyrags	posted 06-04-2009 12:44 AM ET (US) Yes indeed; In my studies about my next refit stage; The worst case scenario involved; Sanding the nonskid flush and to redo with the molding materials.. Some will see this as kind of "over the top" but just possibly; One of the only options for making the deck "factory" again.. Actually; My most reasonable approach will be to scrub the tar out of each and every inch of the entire deck and to take action.. Sanding all existing structures except for the nonskid and the medallions will be done. With the intent of being pragmatic; I had the possible intent of as you have smartly suggested; To spray over the skid. The cracks made by impacts and the small amount of gouges will have to be dealt with. I have been studying about some materials to make enough imprints to effectuate the repairs. I think that we are on the right track. The intent is to make "My Girl"as originally attractive as possible. The Duratec clear gel additive should be a great ally in making the nonskid surfaces as much repaired as can be. I will have guessed that Thin will be the word here. I am also planning to prime the whole areas first.. But then again; Not on the nonskid pattern...
Itchin	posted 06-04-2009 08:33 AM ET (US) You're on the right track. If you opt to overspray the existing pattern, don't prime and don't worry about the hairline fractures. Even minor gouges will not be that noticable once refinished. I know it sounds like short cutting but trust me. Light coats-yes. It won't be perfect, but it will look good. Theres nothing you can do to repair the hairline fractures that will last anyway unless you opt to do a new non-skid. One option along these lines is to partially sand down, fill with epoxy fairing material add a layer of lightweight cloth and epoxy resin, fair, prime and finish with grit texture. This is the best option if you truly want to fix the fractures and gouges. Although the pattern will be different, it will look factory quality and hold up well. Just alot of work. I've restored several whalers and I do this for a living. I'm a fanatic too, but there is a cost benefit to consider. My customers have been happy with the overspray method.
Ritzyrags	posted 06-04-2009 09:37 AM ET (US) It is good to be chatting with you Itch, And like I have; You have done a few repairs. As you probably have guessed; I have done body repairs prior to this one and a few boat refits. This aspect of nonskid repair is rather tedious but not altogether insurmountable. But ten again a new study to make it right.. The thing is; I have the patience and determination to use a tooth brush to "get her done" if I have to. I have posted a quick flash photos of phase one; Having involved the top sections. http://img37.imageshack.us/my.php?image=olympusphotos336.jpg http://img37.imageshack.us/my.php?image=olympusphotos337.jpg http://img362.imageshack.us/my.php?image=olympusphotos341c.jpg http://img268.imageshack.us/my.php?image=olympusphotos421.jpg http://img195.imageshack.us/my.php?image=425d.jpg Phase two will be the deckings.
Ritzyrags	posted 06-04-2009 08:38 PM ET (US) Further to my last post; I have been remiss in thanking Hitch for his good advice. Thanks for giving your valuable input.
egres	posted 10-06-2013 02:40 AM ET (US) Please refer to my link as ritzyrags on the Whalercentral .com to follow my Whaler repairs threads.
Jamesgt727	posted 10-12-2013 07:02 AM ET (US) Ritzy, I used the Gibco molds on both of mine (9 &15) and the result was astoundingly factory, I am not aware of your credentials, but it definitely is not a weekend warrior job, and it takes two professional gel people to get it right. Find "bowserimage" on here, he uses those all the time. He's the one that did the work on mine. I still have those molds, but unfortunately they are custom cut for my purposes. This was an expensive process.