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Author Topic:   Varnishing Teak

Narragansett Outrage posted 06-18-2009 06:03 PM ET (US)
Have done some searches here about varnishing teak, but haven't found what I'm looking for yet.
I'm planning on varnishing the louvered doors on my boat, and any other "stand alone" pieces of teak. I decided against varnishing the gunwhales.
Here are the questions:
1) After I've sanded down everything nicely, should I oil the teak before I varnish it, or not?
2) If I'm dealing with a multi-piece like the swim platform, should I take it all apart and varnish each piece individually, or should I just leave it altogether and varnish over the "seams"?
3) When I finally screw everything back onto the boat, should I varnish over the screws? If not, won't water work its way under the varnish through the screw-hole?
4) One of the reasons I decided against varnishing the gunwhales is because I'm under the impression that the wood should be totally encapsulated in varnish - given that I wouldn't be able to do the underside of the gunwhales, the wood wouldn't be encapsulated, and the water would easily work its way under the varnish. Is this incorrect?
Many thanks,
Clive
humboldt jim posted 06-18-2009 06:16 PM ET (US)
Here are my responses to your questions:
1) After I've sanded down everything nicely, should I oil the teak before I varnish it, or not?
I do not oil before varnishing and see no reason to do it.
2) If I'm dealing with a multi-piece like the swim platform, should I take it all apart and varnish each piece individually, or should I just leave it altogether and varnish over the "seams"?
I would varnish pieces in their entirety unless there was a very good reason not to. Easy assembly/disassembly and inability to access all surface area would be a good reason to varnish in pieces.
3) When I finally screw everything back onto the boat, should I varnish over the screws? If not, won't water work its way under the varnish through the screw-hole?
I don't like the look of varnish over fasteners. It yellows and looks unprofessional. That said it doesn't affect my ability to catch fish. If you're concerned about water intrusion, why not varnish over your screw holes prior to reassembly?
4) One of the reasons I decided against varnishing the gunwhales is because I'm under the impression that the wood should be totally encapsulated in varnish - given that I wouldn't be able to do the underside of the gunwhales, the wood wouldn't be encapsulated, and the water would easily work its way under the varnish. Is this incorrect?
I would use oil. I prefer Sea Fin Teak Oil which has qualities of varnish...long lasting etc, and can be spruced up for a few seasons.
R T M posted 06-18-2009 06:23 PM ET (US)
Don`t varnish over the screws at all costs, it will look terrible and the varnish will peel off the screws, but not in a uniform way. Varnish before you put the parts together. If you must screw some of it together, let the screws stick out a half inch, and carefully varnish around them. Then screw then tight when the varnish is dry.
rich/Binkie
ratherwhalering posted 06-18-2009 06:30 PM ET (US)
1. No. Dillute the varnish with 50% PAINT THINNER and apply a few light coats, then hit it with 100%.
2. No. You may want to pull them apart first if possible and reinforce the joints with new dowels or a biscut, but generally you do not need to varnish each part then reassemble.
3. Not necessarily. The residual varnish in the hole will generally seal the screw without any further action. I plug the holes with a dowel, sand, redrill from the back side, varnish, then use fender washers with a finish washer on top.
4. Not necessarily. There is enough unfinished wood that moisture has plenty of escape routes and does not get trapped underneath the varnish and delaminate it.
Brian (outrageman) has an excellent article here that will be very helpful, but for the life of me I can't find it. Anyone have the link?
ratherwhalering posted 06-18-2009 06:35 PM ET (US)
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/whalerWood.html
Narragansett Outrage posted 06-18-2009 07:45 PM ET (US)
All excellent responses and info - thanks to all of you.
C.
Narragansett Outrage posted 06-19-2009 09:58 AM ET (US)
I heard about a varnish called, "Le Tonkinois" through a friend who works on yacht restorations in Newport - he recommended "Vernis Marine No.1".
Here is a link to some FAQ from the UK vendor (I found it here in the US through a place in CA called, "American Rope & Tar", www.tarsmell.com):
http://www.letonkinoisvarnish.co.uk/VarFAQ.html
Seems like much better stuff than regular varnish - I'm just wondering if anyone else has any experience with the stuff. Is it marketing hype, or...?
Clive
Busch League posted 06-19-2009 12:00 PM ET (US)
Z-SPAR 1015 Captains Varnish is a great product -- West Marine carries at about $30/qt. I would never use anything else.
You want that teak to be as free from oil as possible when you apply -- it will resist absorbtion otherwise. Ratherwhalering is right on with his dilution suggetion -- agian this will help the first coats penetrate the surface. I also give it a nice rub with denatured alcohol prior to the first coat.
Don't varnish over your screws -- it looks bush league and after giving 5-10 coats those will be too gummed up to ever come out with any ease. It's easy enough to slap a small tear of masking tape over the screw/finish washer and cut out the circle with a blade.
I'm a big fan of varnished teak -- think it looks great!
Tohsgib posted 06-19-2009 12:29 PM ET (US)
Sikkens Cetol is designed for teak...only thing I use. Works just as well on other woods but a bit pricey.
Narragansett Outrage posted 07-22-2009 04:30 PM ET (US)
Another question!
For the teak that I'm varnishing, I've removed it entirely from the boat.
I'd like to know if, when I'm applying the nine coats that I'm in the process of applying, I should apply the same nine coats to those areas that won't see the light of day.
For example, the louvred doors from the console - that part of the frame that is flat against the console (can't even see it from inside the console) - should I varnish that, too? Or is one or two protective coats good enough?

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Author	Topic: Varnishing Teak
Narragansett Outrage	posted 06-18-2009 06:03 PM ET (US) Have done some searches here about varnishing teak, but haven't found what I'm looking for yet. I'm planning on varnishing the louvered doors on my boat, and any other "stand alone" pieces of teak. I decided against varnishing the gunwhales. Here are the questions: 1) After I've sanded down everything nicely, should I oil the teak before I varnish it, or not? 2) If I'm dealing with a multi-piece like the swim platform, should I take it all apart and varnish each piece individually, or should I just leave it altogether and varnish over the "seams"? 3) When I finally screw everything back onto the boat, should I varnish over the screws? If not, won't water work its way under the varnish through the screw-hole? 4) One of the reasons I decided against varnishing the gunwhales is because I'm under the impression that the wood should be totally encapsulated in varnish - given that I wouldn't be able to do the underside of the gunwhales, the wood wouldn't be encapsulated, and the water would easily work its way under the varnish. Is this incorrect? Many thanks, Clive
humboldt jim	posted 06-18-2009 06:16 PM ET (US) Here are my responses to your questions: 1) After I've sanded down everything nicely, should I oil the teak before I varnish it, or not? I do not oil before varnishing and see no reason to do it. 2) If I'm dealing with a multi-piece like the swim platform, should I take it all apart and varnish each piece individually, or should I just leave it altogether and varnish over the "seams"? I would varnish pieces in their entirety unless there was a very good reason not to. Easy assembly/disassembly and inability to access all surface area would be a good reason to varnish in pieces. 3) When I finally screw everything back onto the boat, should I varnish over the screws? If not, won't water work its way under the varnish through the screw-hole? I don't like the look of varnish over fasteners. It yellows and looks unprofessional. That said it doesn't affect my ability to catch fish. If you're concerned about water intrusion, why not varnish over your screw holes prior to reassembly? 4) One of the reasons I decided against varnishing the gunwhales is because I'm under the impression that the wood should be totally encapsulated in varnish - given that I wouldn't be able to do the underside of the gunwhales, the wood wouldn't be encapsulated, and the water would easily work its way under the varnish. Is this incorrect? I would use oil. I prefer Sea Fin Teak Oil which has qualities of varnish...long lasting etc, and can be spruced up for a few seasons.
R T M	posted 06-18-2009 06:23 PM ET (US) Don`t varnish over the screws at all costs, it will look terrible and the varnish will peel off the screws, but not in a uniform way. Varnish before you put the parts together. If you must screw some of it together, let the screws stick out a half inch, and carefully varnish around them. Then screw then tight when the varnish is dry. rich/Binkie
ratherwhalering	posted 06-18-2009 06:30 PM ET (US) 1. No. Dillute the varnish with 50% PAINT THINNER and apply a few light coats, then hit it with 100%. 2. No. You may want to pull them apart first if possible and reinforce the joints with new dowels or a biscut, but generally you do not need to varnish each part then reassemble. 3. Not necessarily. The residual varnish in the hole will generally seal the screw without any further action. I plug the holes with a dowel, sand, redrill from the back side, varnish, then use fender washers with a finish washer on top. 4. Not necessarily. There is enough unfinished wood that moisture has plenty of escape routes and does not get trapped underneath the varnish and delaminate it. Brian (outrageman) has an excellent article here that will be very helpful, but for the life of me I can't find it. Anyone have the link?
ratherwhalering	posted 06-18-2009 06:35 PM ET (US) http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/whalerWood.html
Narragansett Outrage	posted 06-18-2009 07:45 PM ET (US) All excellent responses and info - thanks to all of you. C.
Narragansett Outrage	posted 06-19-2009 09:58 AM ET (US) I heard about a varnish called, "Le Tonkinois" through a friend who works on yacht restorations in Newport - he recommended "Vernis Marine No.1". Here is a link to some FAQ from the UK vendor (I found it here in the US through a place in CA called, "American Rope & Tar", www.tarsmell.com): http://www.letonkinoisvarnish.co.uk/VarFAQ.html Seems like much better stuff than regular varnish - I'm just wondering if anyone else has any experience with the stuff. Is it marketing hype, or...? Clive
Busch League	posted 06-19-2009 12:00 PM ET (US) Z-SPAR 1015 Captains Varnish is a great product -- West Marine carries at about $30/qt. I would never use anything else. You want that teak to be as free from oil as possible when you apply -- it will resist absorbtion otherwise. Ratherwhalering is right on with his dilution suggetion -- agian this will help the first coats penetrate the surface. I also give it a nice rub with denatured alcohol prior to the first coat. Don't varnish over your screws -- it looks bush league and after giving 5-10 coats those will be too gummed up to ever come out with any ease. It's easy enough to slap a small tear of masking tape over the screw/finish washer and cut out the circle with a blade. I'm a big fan of varnished teak -- think it looks great!
Tohsgib	posted 06-19-2009 12:29 PM ET (US) Sikkens Cetol is designed for teak...only thing I use. Works just as well on other woods but a bit pricey.
Narragansett Outrage	posted 07-22-2009 04:30 PM ET (US) Another question! For the teak that I'm varnishing, I've removed it entirely from the boat. I'd like to know if, when I'm applying the nine coats that I'm in the process of applying, I should apply the same nine coats to those areas that won't see the light of day. For example, the louvred doors from the console - that part of the frame that is flat against the console (can't even see it from inside the console) - should I varnish that, too? Or is one or two protective coats good enough?