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Author Topic:   Fitting Battery Into Console

Bogan posted 07-01-2009 06:41 AM ET (US)
I've read a few times that one way to lighten the load in the stern is to move the battery to the console. I am trying to figure out how to do that. I can't imagine that I could get a battery inside the center console of my Outrage 20: big battery, small doors. And once it is in there, is it there to stay? It seems like it would be a pain to do any maintenance on it, or take it out periodically. My console is not the super console, just the regular console. I am re-powering with a Honda 150, and, depending on how the boat sits, I may want to move the battery.
Any insight is appreciated.
jimh posted 07-01-2009 07:45 AM ET (US)
Many Boston Whaler owners have moved the engine starting battery to inside the console from the stern splash well. To discuss the electrical aspects of this, please use SMALL BOAT ELECTRICAL.
The mechanical aspect of installing the battery into the console is often handled by cutting away a portion of the floor of the console so that the battery will sit on the deck, not on the console floor. There are many prior discussions on this topic.
deepwater posted 07-01-2009 08:47 PM ET (US)
One way would be to get 2 batteries,,Each one as big as will fit and wire them [removed recommendation which I thought was extremely dangerous to follow. In good conscience I cannot publish this recommendation as I believe it to be completely wrong and likely to cause serious damage. In addition, I already made clear that the electrical considerations of this modification must be discussed in SMALL BOAT ELECTRICAL--jimh]
Bogan posted 07-02-2009 05:48 AM ET (US)
Thanks Jim. I am not as concerned with the electrical aspect of this job as I am with the mechanical. I am still unsure how one would fit a marine battery inside the console...both doors are too small, no? I would rather not cut into anything, if possible. Again, any feedback is appreciated. I am definitely a visual learner so any pictures of this process of completed job would be great.
Thanks!
deepwater posted 07-02-2009 06:23 AM ET (US)
Bogan,,The floor of your CC (if it still has one) is only there to keep small items up and out of the water that comes over the sides and down the decks,,It is not strong enough to support the weight of a battery for very long ,,Blocking and bracing is needed,, So others have just cut a battery box size hole using a saber saw and let the battery box rest on the deck ,,Water conditions can get rough and the pounding the CC floor takes is a lot
Salty Tricks posted 07-02-2009 08:47 AM ET (US)
Bogan
I just recently did this on my Montauk...
As stated above it is highly recommended that you cut the console floor the size of your battery box. Be cognizant of weight ditribution if you are installing two batteries. The battery will fit through the side louvered door. It is indeed a job for a contortionist,(both installation and servicing), but the benefits exceed the effort. Good Luck!
White Bear posted 07-02-2009 11:25 AM ET (US)
I did the same job on my 20' Outrage 10+ years ago. Most assuredly you will want to cut out the shelf of the console to allow the batteries to sit on the deck. I made the openings in the shelf large enough that the original battery boxes from the splashwell would fit and placed Turtletile underneath to provide some drainage. Battery switch was relocated inside the console and wires routed through existing duct under deck to starboard side where they ascended through BW removable chase to underside of gunwale and then to stern. It is definitely worthwhile to move the weight of two batteries forward, but it does take some doing to remove and reinstall same through the console's side hatch. Most everything we do is some form of compromise - I'd do it again notwithstanding.
pglein posted 07-02-2009 01:18 PM ET (US)
A critical piece of missing information is the size and type of batteries you are using.
The door in the side of the console (regular console) on my 18' Outrage is large enough to fit a Group 24 battery through it. I think it would probably fit a Group 27 as well, but just barely. Maneauvering them into the battery boxes is difficult, but doable. It requires a fair amount of forearm strength. It is not something I would recommend for someone more advanced in age unless they were in unusually good physical shape.
Waccamaw Whaler posted 07-02-2009 02:43 PM ET (US)
I have a 17' Outrage and recently put 2 batteries inside the console. They are 825 AH [Editor's note: impossible to be 825-Ampere-Hour; probably means Marine Cranking Amperes--jimh] but I'm not certain of the group size. The battery case is the larger of the two that are sold at WalMart and most boating stores.
The two batteries fit perfectly and leave enough room for an accessory box as shown in the picture.
I'd recommend making a cardboard template with very accurate measurements - you need every inch you can get. Remember: 1) The bottom of the battery box has a draft i.e., it's slightly wider at the top than the bottom. 2) there may be a flange on the shield around the cables coming up through the floor - make allowance for it. 3) the space taken by any protursions in the front & sides of the console such as for the fire extinguisher or "glove box" must be considered. 4) the TOP lid of the battery case IS LARGER than the bottom where the battery sits. Allow room for the protrusions.
Make your cutout for the bottom of the box so it fits snuggly. Doing this wil easily allow you to grab the battery handle and slide it up and out. It's much easier to get the battery in and out of the box than I expected.
When I wired the 2 batteries to a battery switch I just cut a notch in the lid of the battery box for the negative cable that goes from one battery to another. Remember to put your batteries in so the negative posts of both batteries are toward the bow to facilitate wiring.
This is a great setup and really helped with the weight distribution.
http://s266.photobucket.com/albums/ii268/WhalerRon/Battery%20Boxes/
jmorgan40 posted 07-02-2009 04:15 PM ET (US)
Bogan,
You may find this hrd to believe but folks that have seen my Outrage 20 can tell you it is true. I have four (4) Group 29 Deep cycles in my Outrage 20 console. It to is the standard console. I also have my 2 gallon Yamaha VRO oil tank in the console along with the Stealth charging system, the Lenco Trim and electric motor modules, and finally my Battery switch. Yes it is packed!!! One battery is wired as the Starting Battery, One as the house battery, and the remaining two batteries are wired as 24 volt for the Lenco Trolling tabs. I have just enough room left for a first aid kit, flairs, a small tool box and two whaler pouches with charts and manuals. Getting the batteries in was a chore but getting them out is an even bigger chore. You will have no problem fitting two in your console.
One quick note, I removed the inner plywood floor. I built a new floor out of 3/4" King Starboard. I added one inch Starboard runners to the bottom. It supports the batteries, keps them off the floor of the boat, and the runners allow me to wash any dirt under the console when cleaning the boat. Before that I had the batteries sitting on the floor which trapped any dirt. The wiring is another story and is in need of being redone. I keep putting it off and can tell you it is not pretty with that many batteries in a small space. It works good for me the past 4-5 years. Let me know how you make out.
Over the LINE posted 07-02-2009 05:18 PM ET (US)
I just changed one of the two group 27's in my 18' Outrage a few hours ago. I have no frame on the console side door. I have no problem fitting the battery through the hole. Room to spare.
Waccamaw Whaler posted 07-02-2009 08:05 PM ET (US)
I stand corrected. I should have said 825 CCA, not 825 AH.
Jefecinco posted 07-03-2009 10:19 AM ET (US)
When moving/installing batteries to/in the console consider upgrading to AGM batteries.
AGMs are the closest thing to "maintenance free" batteries that I've used. They virtually eliminate the problems associated with "gassing". Water is never required and terminals never need cleaning. Your boxes of Arm & Hammer can be thrown out or reserved for your vehicle battery maintenance and cleaning.
The only maintenance I perform on my batteries is to periodically ensure the terminal connections remain secure and that the hold-downs are snug. I perform this maintenance in conjunction with the "top off" charge I perform before each outing.
I am beginning to believe a "top off" charge is not required with my AGMs as the charger never charges at more than about two amps and goes to zero amps within twenty minutes. This is the case even after relatively long periods of non-use up to about sixty days.
Butch
jmorgan40 posted 07-03-2009 11:19 AM ET (US)
Butch,
AGM batteries are great and I would love to have them. But 4 Group 29 AGM batteries would run about $2,000. My Walmart batteries are doing great at $69 each.
Jefecinco posted 07-03-2009 07:10 PM ET (US)
Wow, $2000 for four AGMs. Thatsa lotsa dinero.
I have only two batteries on my boat and I believe they are Group 27s but I'm not positive. They only cost around $150 each about five years ago if I remember correctly.
You must have some serious electrical loads on your Outrage. Two Group 29s sounds like a nice match for a serious trolling motor for a 20 foot Outrage. A Group 29 for the house load (electronics only?) seems to be enough for some serious reserve capacity and another Group 29 for starting also is probably providing some good reserve capacity.
Your setup appears to me to be pretty much bullet proof with generous reserve capacity and superior built in redundancy.
I'm sure you have done the math but the long term life and reliability of serious AGM batteries could, over the long term, provide a cost effective alternative to the Walmart batteries you are now using. In my case the ability to virtually ignore my batteries for five years with out standing reliability seals the deal.
Butch

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Author	Topic: Fitting Battery Into Console
Bogan	posted 07-01-2009 06:41 AM ET (US) I've read a few times that one way to lighten the load in the stern is to move the battery to the console. I am trying to figure out how to do that. I can't imagine that I could get a battery inside the center console of my Outrage 20: big battery, small doors. And once it is in there, is it there to stay? It seems like it would be a pain to do any maintenance on it, or take it out periodically. My console is not the super console, just the regular console. I am re-powering with a Honda 150, and, depending on how the boat sits, I may want to move the battery. Any insight is appreciated.
jimh	posted 07-01-2009 07:45 AM ET (US) Many Boston Whaler owners have moved the engine starting battery to inside the console from the stern splash well. To discuss the electrical aspects of this, please use SMALL BOAT ELECTRICAL. The mechanical aspect of installing the battery into the console is often handled by cutting away a portion of the floor of the console so that the battery will sit on the deck, not on the console floor. There are many prior discussions on this topic.
deepwater	posted 07-01-2009 08:47 PM ET (US) One way would be to get 2 batteries,,Each one as big as will fit and wire them [removed recommendation which I thought was extremely dangerous to follow. In good conscience I cannot publish this recommendation as I believe it to be completely wrong and likely to cause serious damage. In addition, I already made clear that the electrical considerations of this modification must be discussed in SMALL BOAT ELECTRICAL--jimh]
Bogan	posted 07-02-2009 05:48 AM ET (US) Thanks Jim. I am not as concerned with the electrical aspect of this job as I am with the mechanical. I am still unsure how one would fit a marine battery inside the console...both doors are too small, no? I would rather not cut into anything, if possible. Again, any feedback is appreciated. I am definitely a visual learner so any pictures of this process of completed job would be great. Thanks!
deepwater	posted 07-02-2009 06:23 AM ET (US) Bogan,,The floor of your CC (if it still has one) is only there to keep small items up and out of the water that comes over the sides and down the decks,,It is not strong enough to support the weight of a battery for very long ,,Blocking and bracing is needed,, So others have just cut a battery box size hole using a saber saw and let the battery box rest on the deck ,,Water conditions can get rough and the pounding the CC floor takes is a lot
Salty Tricks	posted 07-02-2009 08:47 AM ET (US) Bogan I just recently did this on my Montauk... As stated above it is highly recommended that you cut the console floor the size of your battery box. Be cognizant of weight ditribution if you are installing two batteries. The battery will fit through the side louvered door. It is indeed a job for a contortionist,(both installation and servicing), but the benefits exceed the effort. Good Luck!
White Bear	posted 07-02-2009 11:25 AM ET (US) I did the same job on my 20' Outrage 10+ years ago. Most assuredly you will want to cut out the shelf of the console to allow the batteries to sit on the deck. I made the openings in the shelf large enough that the original battery boxes from the splashwell would fit and placed Turtletile underneath to provide some drainage. Battery switch was relocated inside the console and wires routed through existing duct under deck to starboard side where they ascended through BW removable chase to underside of gunwale and then to stern. It is definitely worthwhile to move the weight of two batteries forward, but it does take some doing to remove and reinstall same through the console's side hatch. Most everything we do is some form of compromise - I'd do it again notwithstanding.
pglein	posted 07-02-2009 01:18 PM ET (US) A critical piece of missing information is the size and type of batteries you are using. The door in the side of the console (regular console) on my 18' Outrage is large enough to fit a Group 24 battery through it. I think it would probably fit a Group 27 as well, but just barely. Maneauvering them into the battery boxes is difficult, but doable. It requires a fair amount of forearm strength. It is not something I would recommend for someone more advanced in age unless they were in unusually good physical shape.
Waccamaw Whaler	posted 07-02-2009 02:43 PM ET (US) I have a 17' Outrage and recently put 2 batteries inside the console. They are 825 AH [Editor's note: impossible to be 825-Ampere-Hour; probably means Marine Cranking Amperes--jimh] but I'm not certain of the group size. The battery case is the larger of the two that are sold at WalMart and most boating stores. The two batteries fit perfectly and leave enough room for an accessory box as shown in the picture. I'd recommend making a cardboard template with very accurate measurements - you need every inch you can get. Remember: 1) The bottom of the battery box has a draft i.e., it's slightly wider at the top than the bottom. 2) there may be a flange on the shield around the cables coming up through the floor - make allowance for it. 3) the space taken by any protursions in the front & sides of the console such as for the fire extinguisher or "glove box" must be considered. 4) the TOP lid of the battery case IS LARGER than the bottom where the battery sits. Allow room for the protrusions. Make your cutout for the bottom of the box so it fits snuggly. Doing this wil easily allow you to grab the battery handle and slide it up and out. It's much easier to get the battery in and out of the box than I expected. When I wired the 2 batteries to a battery switch I just cut a notch in the lid of the battery box for the negative cable that goes from one battery to another. Remember to put your batteries in so the negative posts of both batteries are toward the bow to facilitate wiring. This is a great setup and really helped with the weight distribution. http://s266.photobucket.com/albums/ii268/WhalerRon/Battery%20Boxes/
jmorgan40	posted 07-02-2009 04:15 PM ET (US) Bogan, You may find this hrd to believe but folks that have seen my Outrage 20 can tell you it is true. I have four (4) Group 29 Deep cycles in my Outrage 20 console. It to is the standard console. I also have my 2 gallon Yamaha VRO oil tank in the console along with the Stealth charging system, the Lenco Trim and electric motor modules, and finally my Battery switch. Yes it is packed!!! One battery is wired as the Starting Battery, One as the house battery, and the remaining two batteries are wired as 24 volt for the Lenco Trolling tabs. I have just enough room left for a first aid kit, flairs, a small tool box and two whaler pouches with charts and manuals. Getting the batteries in was a chore but getting them out is an even bigger chore. You will have no problem fitting two in your console. One quick note, I removed the inner plywood floor. I built a new floor out of 3/4" King Starboard. I added one inch Starboard runners to the bottom. It supports the batteries, keps them off the floor of the boat, and the runners allow me to wash any dirt under the console when cleaning the boat. Before that I had the batteries sitting on the floor which trapped any dirt. The wiring is another story and is in need of being redone. I keep putting it off and can tell you it is not pretty with that many batteries in a small space. It works good for me the past 4-5 years. Let me know how you make out.
Over the LINE	posted 07-02-2009 05:18 PM ET (US) I just changed one of the two group 27's in my 18' Outrage a few hours ago. I have no frame on the console side door. I have no problem fitting the battery through the hole. Room to spare.
Waccamaw Whaler	posted 07-02-2009 08:05 PM ET (US) I stand corrected. I should have said 825 CCA, not 825 AH.
Jefecinco	posted 07-03-2009 10:19 AM ET (US) When moving/installing batteries to/in the console consider upgrading to AGM batteries. AGMs are the closest thing to "maintenance free" batteries that I've used. They virtually eliminate the problems associated with "gassing". Water is never required and terminals never need cleaning. Your boxes of Arm & Hammer can be thrown out or reserved for your vehicle battery maintenance and cleaning. The only maintenance I perform on my batteries is to periodically ensure the terminal connections remain secure and that the hold-downs are snug. I perform this maintenance in conjunction with the "top off" charge I perform before each outing. I am beginning to believe a "top off" charge is not required with my AGMs as the charger never charges at more than about two amps and goes to zero amps within twenty minutes. This is the case even after relatively long periods of non-use up to about sixty days. Butch
jmorgan40	posted 07-03-2009 11:19 AM ET (US) Butch, AGM batteries are great and I would love to have them. But 4 Group 29 AGM batteries would run about $2,000. My Walmart batteries are doing great at $69 each.
Jefecinco	posted 07-03-2009 07:10 PM ET (US) Wow, $2000 for four AGMs. Thatsa lotsa dinero. I have only two batteries on my boat and I believe they are Group 27s but I'm not positive. They only cost around $150 each about five years ago if I remember correctly. You must have some serious electrical loads on your Outrage. Two Group 29s sounds like a nice match for a serious trolling motor for a 20 foot Outrage. A Group 29 for the house load (electronics only?) seems to be enough for some serious reserve capacity and another Group 29 for starting also is probably providing some good reserve capacity. Your setup appears to me to be pretty much bullet proof with generous reserve capacity and superior built in redundancy. I'm sure you have done the math but the long term life and reliability of serious AGM batteries could, over the long term, provide a cost effective alternative to the Walmart batteries you are now using. In my case the ability to virtually ignore my batteries for five years with out standing reliability seals the deal. Butch