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Author Topic:   Renovating Canvas

rollingrightalong posted 08-19-2009 02:07 AM ET (US)
I recently bought a 1988 V-20 which came with some canvas in good, but non-waterproof condition.

I had a good friend steam pressure clean the canvas, although a good wash would probably do the same. Remember to fully remove any soap or detergent residue.
Searching the internet for waterproofing ideas I came across a suggestion to use soybean oil cut with 50% (by fluid volume) turpentine, as an alternative to spray cans of waterproofer.

Purchase of soybean oil was an initial problem until I found out that Crisco Vegetable Oil is in fact soybean oil. Turpentine was readily available at Home Depot's paint department.
It took a gallon (actually 3.5 litres) of soybean oil and 50% of that in turpentine, well mixed (shaken vigorously) in a used plastic milk jug to "paint" the whole cover. I actually used a small 6" wide roller and a 3" brush.
It smelt initially of turpentine, which faded rapidly, but really kept the bugs away during application.
I noted that the first rains washed away the excess oil.
About 3 months into it the canvas has lost its oily feel and is fully waterproof, so so far a successful experiment.
One downside is I lost the bright blue of the untreated canvas, and now have a quite acceptable darker blue.
If anyone has done this please contact me and let me know if I'm headed towards disaster.
jimh posted 08-19-2009 07:12 AM ET (US)
Thanks for the interesting remedy. I do not recall prior reports of that technique.
ASIDE: I am interested to learn more about a Boston Whaler V-20 hull made in 1988. Prior research has led us to believe that production of the V-20 hull ended in 1985.
kazankota posted 08-19-2009 07:29 AM ET (US)
Nikwax cottonproof works well. I've used on other canvas products.
http://www.nikwax.com/en-us/products/productdetail.php?productid=250& activityid=-1&itemid=-1&fabricid=-1
Need to ensure all detergent residue is cleaned away. You can do it in the washing.
Chesapeake posted 08-20-2009 10:15 AM ET (US)
Call Mills: I sent my mooring cover back to them and they cleaned it and followed up with a waterproof coating. I am sure they would tell you what spray they use for their tops.
Bob
Buckda posted 08-20-2009 12:23 PM ET (US)
I think it really depends on what material was used to make your canvas.
If it was Sunbrella brand fabric, they recommend
quote:
As part of the finishing process, Sunbrella fabrics are treated with a fluorocarbon finish, which enhances water repellency. This finish is designed to last for several years, but must be replenished after a thorough cleaning. Based on test results, Glen Raven recommends 303 High Tech Fabric Guard™ as the preferred re-treatment product for Sunbrella fabrics. Fabrics should be re-treated after thorough cleaning or after five years of use.
cf: http://www.sunbrella.com/na/cc_marine_tops_covers.php
They go on to recommend how to apply the product:

quote:
303 should be applied to Sunbrella fabrics after each thorough cleaning, which typically removes the original finish and reduces the fabric’s water repellency.
* Clean Sunbrella fabric, using one of the cleaning methods.
* Allow Sunbrella to completely air dry.
* Apply 303 Fabric Guard in a well ventilated area following instructions on the container.
* Apply 303 in a thin, even coat and allow fabric to dry completely.
* Apply a second thin, even coating of 303. (Two light coatings are more effective in restoring fabric water resistance than a single heavy coating. A 15-ounce bottle provides coverage of up to 50 square feet of fabric.)
For more information, please visit www.303products.com.
NOTE: They also recommend that you NOT steam clean the fabric:

quote:
Helpful hints
Protect the area around the Sunbrella fabric when using a bleach solution – bleach may discolor non-Sunbrella fabrics. Always rinse Sunbrella thoroughly to completely remove bleach.
Sunbrella air dries very quickly. Machine drying is not necessary.
If fabric has some wrinkling, use an iron, if necessary, but only on the synthetic* setting. As some irons exceed the recommended 100°F/38°C temperature on the synthetic setting, test a small inconspicuous area before ironing entire piece.
DO NOT use a steamer or iron set to steam setting.
Use of bleach and/or advanced age of the fabric application may impact the deterioration of the sewing thread and other non-Sunbrella components.

Don88outrage posted 08-20-2009 04:33 PM ET (US)
Interesting process, sounds like it has roots going back to the old rain gear used by commercial fisherman, if I remember correctly they we're called oil skins, and the old canvas tents that we're treated by a gooey waterproof recipe.

Chesapeake posted 08-22-2009 11:39 AM ET (US)
Dave: Great post.
Last night I went into my "solvents cabinet" to check the bottle of waterproofing solution that Mills sent to me... you guessed it: 303 brand.
rollingrightalong posted 05-26-2011 10:22 AM ET (US)
It's 18 months (and two north-west rainy winters) since my first post on this 'waterproofing' technique. As a follow-up I can report that the canvas is still fully waterproof (and holds ponded rainwater when I forget to install the support frame at the stern) and shows no signs of fading from the 'darkened' blue the treatment created.
The only downside was that some of the soy bean oil / turpentine mixture dripped onto the fiberglass which has meant a little bit of easy cleaning maintenance with methyl hydrate. No lasting damage.
So far so good.
Later this summer I'll ask my good friend with the commercial hot water / steam power washer to clean the canvas again to remove the grime build-up. I'll report back if this causes the canvas to require re-waterproofing.

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Author	Topic: Renovating Canvas
rollingrightalong	posted 08-19-2009 02:07 AM ET (US) I recently bought a 1988 V-20 which came with some canvas in good, but non-waterproof condition. I had a good friend steam pressure clean the canvas, although a good wash would probably do the same. Remember to fully remove any soap or detergent residue. Searching the internet for waterproofing ideas I came across a suggestion to use soybean oil cut with 50% (by fluid volume) turpentine, as an alternative to spray cans of waterproofer. Purchase of soybean oil was an initial problem until I found out that Crisco Vegetable Oil is in fact soybean oil. Turpentine was readily available at Home Depot's paint department. It took a gallon (actually 3.5 litres) of soybean oil and 50% of that in turpentine, well mixed (shaken vigorously) in a used plastic milk jug to "paint" the whole cover. I actually used a small 6" wide roller and a 3" brush. It smelt initially of turpentine, which faded rapidly, but really kept the bugs away during application. I noted that the first rains washed away the excess oil. About 3 months into it the canvas has lost its oily feel and is fully waterproof, so so far a successful experiment. One downside is I lost the bright blue of the untreated canvas, and now have a quite acceptable darker blue. If anyone has done this please contact me and let me know if I'm headed towards disaster.
jimh	posted 08-19-2009 07:12 AM ET (US) Thanks for the interesting remedy. I do not recall prior reports of that technique. ASIDE: I am interested to learn more about a Boston Whaler V-20 hull made in 1988. Prior research has led us to believe that production of the V-20 hull ended in 1985.
kazankota	posted 08-19-2009 07:29 AM ET (US) Nikwax cottonproof works well. I've used on other canvas products. http://www.nikwax.com/en-us/products/productdetail.php?productid=250& activityid=-1&itemid=-1&fabricid=-1 Need to ensure all detergent residue is cleaned away. You can do it in the washing.
Chesapeake	posted 08-20-2009 10:15 AM ET (US) Call Mills: I sent my mooring cover back to them and they cleaned it and followed up with a waterproof coating. I am sure they would tell you what spray they use for their tops. Bob
Buckda	posted 08-20-2009 12:23 PM ET (US) I think it really depends on what material was used to make your canvas. If it was Sunbrella brand fabric, they recommend quote: As part of the finishing process, Sunbrella fabrics are treated with a fluorocarbon finish, which enhances water repellency. This finish is designed to last for several years, but must be replenished after a thorough cleaning. Based on test results, Glen Raven recommends 303 High Tech Fabric Guard™ as the preferred re-treatment product for Sunbrella fabrics. Fabrics should be re-treated after thorough cleaning or after five years of use. cf: http://www.sunbrella.com/na/cc_marine_tops_covers.php They go on to recommend how to apply the product: quote: 303 should be applied to Sunbrella fabrics after each thorough cleaning, which typically removes the original finish and reduces the fabric’s water repellency. * Clean Sunbrella fabric, using one of the cleaning methods. * Allow Sunbrella to completely air dry. * Apply 303 Fabric Guard in a well ventilated area following instructions on the container. * Apply 303 in a thin, even coat and allow fabric to dry completely. * Apply a second thin, even coating of 303. (Two light coatings are more effective in restoring fabric water resistance than a single heavy coating. A 15-ounce bottle provides coverage of up to 50 square feet of fabric.) For more information, please visit www.303products.com. NOTE: They also recommend that you NOT steam clean the fabric: quote: Helpful hints Protect the area around the Sunbrella fabric when using a bleach solution – bleach may discolor non-Sunbrella fabrics. Always rinse Sunbrella thoroughly to completely remove bleach. Sunbrella air dries very quickly. Machine drying is not necessary. If fabric has some wrinkling, use an iron, if necessary, but only on the synthetic* setting. As some irons exceed the recommended 100°F/38°C temperature on the synthetic setting, test a small inconspicuous area before ironing entire piece. DO NOT use a steamer or iron set to steam setting. Use of bleach and/or advanced age of the fabric application may impact the deterioration of the sewing thread and other non-Sunbrella components.
Don88outrage	posted 08-20-2009 04:33 PM ET (US) Interesting process, sounds like it has roots going back to the old rain gear used by commercial fisherman, if I remember correctly they we're called oil skins, and the old canvas tents that we're treated by a gooey waterproof recipe.
Chesapeake	posted 08-22-2009 11:39 AM ET (US) Dave: Great post. Last night I went into my "solvents cabinet" to check the bottle of waterproofing solution that Mills sent to me... you guessed it: 303 brand.
rollingrightalong	posted 05-26-2011 10:22 AM ET (US) It's 18 months (and two north-west rainy winters) since my first post on this 'waterproofing' technique. As a follow-up I can report that the canvas is still fully waterproof (and holds ponded rainwater when I forget to install the support frame at the stern) and shows no signs of fading from the 'darkened' blue the treatment created. The only downside was that some of the soy bean oil / turpentine mixture dripped onto the fiberglass which has meant a little bit of easy cleaning maintenance with methyl hydrate. No lasting damage. So far so good. Later this summer I'll ask my good friend with the commercial hot water / steam power washer to clean the canvas again to remove the grime build-up. I'll report back if this causes the canvas to require re-waterproofing.