Sacrificial Anode Replacement - Moderated Discussion Areas

  ContinuousWave
  Whaler
  Moderated Discussion Areas
  ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
  Sacrificial Anode Replacement

search | FAQ | profile | register | author help

Author Topic:   Sacrificial Anode Replacement

JMARTIN posted 12-23-2009 07:13 PM ET (US)
When do motor zinc's need replacing? http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d137/jmartin-/DSCF7534.jpg
It does not wiggle.
John
Lil Whaler Lover posted 12-23-2009 08:16 PM ET (US)
If an anode is eroded half away it is time to replace it. This is the least expensive life insurance you can get for your equipment.
Bella con23 posted 12-23-2009 10:04 PM ET (US)
Personally, I would replace that one. It's a gallon of oil to replace them.
Joe
high sierra posted 12-24-2009 12:08 PM ET (US)
JMARTIN, scrape it somewhat clean and replace it next time you need a waterpump. I believe you have to take off the lower unit on that model. (or is there a bolt thru.) high sierra
Peter posted 12-24-2009 12:21 PM ET (US)
It is through bolted. That one looks like it has served its useful life.
jimp posted 12-24-2009 03:10 PM ET (US)
If you trailer, like me, it might have years of life. Keep an eye on it. I check mine once or twice a week (when I wash down the boat in the front yard).
If panicked, buy a spare.
JimP
jimh posted 12-24-2009 03:18 PM ET (US)
I recommend you rely on the advice of your engine's manufacturer regarding sacrificial anode replacement. Here is an excerpt from the owner's manual of my new 2010 model year engine regarding sacrificial anodes, or anti-corrosion anodes as they are called therein:
--
Anti-Corrosion Anodes
"Your outboard is equipped with one or more anodes that
protect it from galvanic corrosion. Disintegration of the anode
is normal and indicates it is working. Check each anode
periodically. Replace anodes smaller than 2/3 their
original size. See your Dealer for replacements.
"IMPORTANT: NEVER paint the anode, its fasteners, or its
mounting surface. Painting will reduce its corrosion protection."
--
Based on these recommendations, the anode:
--should be replaced when it has decayed to two-thirds its original size
--should be replaced by a similar OEM replacement part
The size and material composition of the anode influences its behavior in preventing galvanic corrosion. For those reasons it seems reasonable to use an OEM replacement in order to get the proper material composition, and to replace the anode when its size begins to decrease.
It is also a good idea to periodically check the electrical connection of the anode to the engine block and to the battery negative terminal. Use an ohmmeter to measure from the anode surface to the battery negative terminal. There should be an extremely low resistance reading, less than 0.1-ohm. This indicates the anode is properly bonded to the battery negative terminal; we assume the battery negative is well-bonded to the engine block.
JMARTIN posted 12-27-2009 02:52 PM ET (US)
The owners manual says to replace when it is 2/3rds gone, so I am good. You do need to drop the lower unit to replace it. The water pump was done in May 08 and only has 76 hours on it since then.
Now the time that the anode has been in the water is a lot more with the amount of trolling and shrimp pot sitting that the boat does. Some times the motor sits at the dock lowered due to lack of dock space for days at a time.
Peter posted 12-27-2009 05:04 PM ET (US)
That anode looks pretty porous. A new one looks solid. I bet that if you removed it and put it on a scale, its weight would be 2/3's of the weight of a new one. If that was my motor, I would replace the anode.
high sierra posted 12-27-2009 06:41 PM ET (US)
I figured it was necessary to remove the lower unit to change them. Just bolt another smaller one on the top side of the cavitation plate . Some motors came that way. high sierra

Hop to:

Contact Us | RETURN to ContinuousWave Top Page

Powered by: Ultimate Bulletin Board, Freeware Version 2000
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.

Author	Topic: Sacrificial Anode Replacement
JMARTIN	posted 12-23-2009 07:13 PM ET (US) When do motor zinc's need replacing? http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d137/jmartin-/DSCF7534.jpg It does not wiggle. John
Lil Whaler Lover	posted 12-23-2009 08:16 PM ET (US) If an anode is eroded half away it is time to replace it. This is the least expensive life insurance you can get for your equipment.
Bella con23	posted 12-23-2009 10:04 PM ET (US) Personally, I would replace that one. It's a gallon of oil to replace them. Joe
high sierra	posted 12-24-2009 12:08 PM ET (US) JMARTIN, scrape it somewhat clean and replace it next time you need a waterpump. I believe you have to take off the lower unit on that model. (or is there a bolt thru.) high sierra
Peter	posted 12-24-2009 12:21 PM ET (US) It is through bolted. That one looks like it has served its useful life.
jimp	posted 12-24-2009 03:10 PM ET (US) If you trailer, like me, it might have years of life. Keep an eye on it. I check mine once or twice a week (when I wash down the boat in the front yard). If panicked, buy a spare. JimP
jimh	posted 12-24-2009 03:18 PM ET (US) I recommend you rely on the advice of your engine's manufacturer regarding sacrificial anode replacement. Here is an excerpt from the owner's manual of my new 2010 model year engine regarding sacrificial anodes, or anti-corrosion anodes as they are called therein: -- Anti-Corrosion Anodes "Your outboard is equipped with one or more anodes that protect it from galvanic corrosion. Disintegration of the anode is normal and indicates it is working. Check each anode periodically. Replace anodes smaller than 2/3 their original size. See your Dealer for replacements. "IMPORTANT: NEVER paint the anode, its fasteners, or its mounting surface. Painting will reduce its corrosion protection." -- Based on these recommendations, the anode: --should be replaced when it has decayed to two-thirds its original size --should be replaced by a similar OEM replacement part The size and material composition of the anode influences its behavior in preventing galvanic corrosion. For those reasons it seems reasonable to use an OEM replacement in order to get the proper material composition, and to replace the anode when its size begins to decrease. It is also a good idea to periodically check the electrical connection of the anode to the engine block and to the battery negative terminal. Use an ohmmeter to measure from the anode surface to the battery negative terminal. There should be an extremely low resistance reading, less than 0.1-ohm. This indicates the anode is properly bonded to the battery negative terminal; we assume the battery negative is well-bonded to the engine block.
JMARTIN	posted 12-27-2009 02:52 PM ET (US) The owners manual says to replace when it is 2/3rds gone, so I am good. You do need to drop the lower unit to replace it. The water pump was done in May 08 and only has 76 hours on it since then. Now the time that the anode has been in the water is a lot more with the amount of trolling and shrimp pot sitting that the boat does. Some times the motor sits at the dock lowered due to lack of dock space for days at a time.
Peter	posted 12-27-2009 05:04 PM ET (US) That anode looks pretty porous. A new one looks solid. I bet that if you removed it and put it on a scale, its weight would be 2/3's of the weight of a new one. If that was my motor, I would replace the anode.
high sierra	posted 12-27-2009 06:41 PM ET (US) I figured it was necessary to remove the lower unit to change them. Just bolt another smaller one on the top side of the cavitation plate . Some motors came that way. high sierra