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Author Topic:   Rub Rail Rivet Removal

tedstrat posted 01-11-2010 08:44 PM ET (US)
[Give a] suggestion on removing the old rivets which hold the rub rail in place for a 1981 13-footer whose rub rail is damaged. I pulled off the black component of the rail and now have to take off the receiver piece, which [I] assume is riveted on from the factory. Do [I] drill out some how? [I]f so what happens to the back and shaft? [D]oes it stay in place or rattle around?. I will be replacing the new piece using stainless steel screws as suggested on the [unclear]. Any suggestions are appreciated.
510racer posted 01-11-2010 09:28 PM ET (US)
Use a 3/16-inch drill to drill out the rivets. Only the head of the rivet comes off and the rest stays in there. You may need to use a punch to tap the remaining piece of rivet in if you are filling the old holes, which is recommended.
Start your new rub rail holes slightly offset from the old holes to prevent hitting one with a screw.
This Reference article has some good info. http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/rubRail.html
dino54904 posted 01-12-2010 11:27 AM ET (US)
Use MarineTex to fill in the holes left by the old rivets. This keeps water from entering the holes and getting into places that are best off dry.
R T M posted 01-12-2010 08:56 PM ET (US)
Rivets were used to install rubrails at the factory. the reason is that the hull is too thin in that area to hold screws and they will soon pull out. You will find this out when you drill the old rivets out.
rich/Binkie
510racer posted 01-12-2010 09:09 PM ET (US)
The thickness of the glass in the hull will vary quite a bit from boat to boat. I just did one and there was more than enough thickness for screws. I only had one not hold and im sure it was from hitting a patched hole.
It would be a good idea to look closely at the drilled holes like Rich suggested and decide for yourself if there is enough thickness for screws. I personally prefer screws.
PeteB88 posted 01-12-2010 09:13 PM ET (US)
I just touched the heads with a 4 " angle grinder and they were gone. I also filled every hole with thickened WEST Systems epoxy, injected the goo where necessary.
rong posted 01-13-2010 10:03 PM ET (US)
Hey Ted,
I would not suggest using Marine text on your repair. I would suggest drilling the old rivets out with the suggested 3/16s bit. I would then take a bur bit and wallow the hole out. Then scratch the surface some with sand paper. At that point, I would use 3M Premium Filler. The filler is a vinyl-ester product. Works wonders with small repairs.
Good luck
dino54904 posted 01-14-2010 11:44 AM ET (US)
Hi Rong,
Is there a reason why you prefer using the 3M filler over Marinetex? I've always used Marinetex for this application and if there is a better product I'm interested in learning more. Thanks
Dino
Tom W Clark posted 01-14-2010 11:54 AM ET (US)
If you want to fill the holes, any of the products mentioned, thickened WEST Systems epoxy (or any other brand of epoxy of that matter), MarineTex, 3M Premium Filler, 3M 5200 and a hundred others, will all work just fine. Use what you have.
The easiest way to get rid the rivets is drill the heads off with a 3/16" drill as mentioned above.
The remaining shank of the rivet is pushed back into the foam if the hull. It will not rattle around at all
Tohsgib posted 01-14-2010 01:53 PM ET (US)
My 1st rubrail replacement I filled in the holes...or started to. The rest I said screw it! No water will get in there and if it does it will be so minimal it won't matter. With most 70-80's whalers I found the green line area unfinished from factory that screws won't work well, rivets do. Many Whalers look like damaged boats but it is the way mine and many others left the factory. These areas have little or no glass and are just filled with resin, etc and the screws won't grab well.
tedstrat posted 01-14-2010 10:02 PM ET (US)
Interesting and informative replies guys....thanks to all. I didn't even think about the old rivets not rattling around because of the foam (duh) so i wont worry about that and will just fill the holes with a patch and mark their location on the topside or something so i can re-install in an offset location.I wonder if i should try to re-rivet since the glass is thin there??? i"m more comfortable with screws for easier removal down the line though. I think i will make that decision after i tackle this removal and see how the glass job is.
Thanks much.

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Author	Topic: Rub Rail Rivet Removal
tedstrat	posted 01-11-2010 08:44 PM ET (US) [Give a] suggestion on removing the old rivets which hold the rub rail in place for a 1981 13-footer whose rub rail is damaged. I pulled off the black component of the rail and now have to take off the receiver piece, which [I] assume is riveted on from the factory. Do [I] drill out some how? [I]f so what happens to the back and shaft? [D]oes it stay in place or rattle around?. I will be replacing the new piece using stainless steel screws as suggested on the [unclear]. Any suggestions are appreciated.
510racer	posted 01-11-2010 09:28 PM ET (US) Use a 3/16-inch drill to drill out the rivets. Only the head of the rivet comes off and the rest stays in there. You may need to use a punch to tap the remaining piece of rivet in if you are filling the old holes, which is recommended. Start your new rub rail holes slightly offset from the old holes to prevent hitting one with a screw. This Reference article has some good info. http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/rubRail.html
dino54904	posted 01-12-2010 11:27 AM ET (US) Use MarineTex to fill in the holes left by the old rivets. This keeps water from entering the holes and getting into places that are best off dry.
R T M	posted 01-12-2010 08:56 PM ET (US) Rivets were used to install rubrails at the factory. the reason is that the hull is too thin in that area to hold screws and they will soon pull out. You will find this out when you drill the old rivets out. rich/Binkie
510racer	posted 01-12-2010 09:09 PM ET (US) The thickness of the glass in the hull will vary quite a bit from boat to boat. I just did one and there was more than enough thickness for screws. I only had one not hold and im sure it was from hitting a patched hole. It would be a good idea to look closely at the drilled holes like Rich suggested and decide for yourself if there is enough thickness for screws. I personally prefer screws.
PeteB88	posted 01-12-2010 09:13 PM ET (US) I just touched the heads with a 4 " angle grinder and they were gone. I also filled every hole with thickened WEST Systems epoxy, injected the goo where necessary.
rong	posted 01-13-2010 10:03 PM ET (US) Hey Ted, I would not suggest using Marine text on your repair. I would suggest drilling the old rivets out with the suggested 3/16s bit. I would then take a bur bit and wallow the hole out. Then scratch the surface some with sand paper. At that point, I would use 3M Premium Filler. The filler is a vinyl-ester product. Works wonders with small repairs. Good luck
dino54904	posted 01-14-2010 11:44 AM ET (US) Hi Rong, Is there a reason why you prefer using the 3M filler over Marinetex? I've always used Marinetex for this application and if there is a better product I'm interested in learning more. Thanks Dino
Tom W Clark	posted 01-14-2010 11:54 AM ET (US) If you want to fill the holes, any of the products mentioned, thickened WEST Systems epoxy (or any other brand of epoxy of that matter), MarineTex, 3M Premium Filler, 3M 5200 and a hundred others, will all work just fine. Use what you have. The easiest way to get rid the rivets is drill the heads off with a 3/16" drill as mentioned above. The remaining shank of the rivet is pushed back into the foam if the hull. It will not rattle around at all
Tohsgib	posted 01-14-2010 01:53 PM ET (US) My 1st rubrail replacement I filled in the holes...or started to. The rest I said screw it! No water will get in there and if it does it will be so minimal it won't matter. With most 70-80's whalers I found the green line area unfinished from factory that screws won't work well, rivets do. Many Whalers look like damaged boats but it is the way mine and many others left the factory. These areas have little or no glass and are just filled with resin, etc and the screws won't grab well.
tedstrat	posted 01-14-2010 10:02 PM ET (US) Interesting and informative replies guys....thanks to all. I didn't even think about the old rivets not rattling around because of the foam (duh) so i wont worry about that and will just fill the holes with a patch and mark their location on the topside or something so i can re-install in an offset location.I wonder if i should try to re-rivet since the glass is thin there??? i"m more comfortable with screws for easier removal down the line though. I think i will make that decision after i tackle this removal and see how the glass job is. Thanks much.