Splicing Wiring Accidently Cut Almost Flush With Hull

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Author Topic:   Splicing Wiring Accidently Cut Almost Flush With Hull

jaybird4 posted 04-12-2010 11:04 PM ET (US)
Hey guys, I am in the process of fixing up a [1978] Sport 15 that I have had for a year. In the process of taking things apart, I made a grave error in removing the wiring block on the port side and snipping the wire behind it. I thought the [combined sidelight lamp at the bow] was wired down the starboard side from the console. Now I have only about 1/8-inch of the wire remaining and too short to splice into another wire. I tried drilling a 1/4-inch hole just forward of the hole with the wire in hopes of reaching the bend of the wire toward the bow and getting a small amount of extra wire to work with. I have drilled about 3/4-inch into wood and have not discovered the wire. Any thoughts from y'all about how I might best tackle this problem are greatly appreciated. Jaybird4
MattInSanDiego posted 04-13-2010 01:59 AM ET (US)
The bow light wires on my 18 were run inside the black rub rail. The wires were not inside the hull. Pull the rub rail off and run new wires. Bring a hair dryer, rubber mallet, and friend with you to this project.
Oh, one more thing...stop drilling holes! :-)
jimh posted 04-13-2010 09:08 AM ET (US)
If there is any length at all of exposed wire remaining at the original point of exit from the hull in the stern, you need to re-connect to that wiring. If it is not possible to make a new connection to the existing wiring, read the FAQ on this topic at:
Q4: How Do I Repair the Wiring for the Combined Sidelights at the Bow?
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/FAQ/#Q4
jaybird4 posted 04-15-2010 02:00 PM ET (US)
Jimh, A belated thanks for your reply. I will go by a good hardware store to get their suggestions for splicing into the 1/8" I have to work with. Regards...Jaybird4
contender posted 04-15-2010 03:36 PM ET (US)
If you know how to solder you could try that, Just use some heat shrink and coat it with some silicon. Good luck
jimh posted 04-15-2010 04:54 PM ET (US)
I recommend trying the following:
--carefully strip the insulation from the end of the wire stub emerging from the hull;
--it is common that older wires will have the copper contaminated with oxidation and gunk from the vinyl or PVC wire insulation; this must be carefully cleaned and removed before trying to solder. Try using a cleaner that says it will remove oxidation from copper pans.
--with the bare wire clean, tin the wire with solder.
--connect to the bare wire with a new marine grade tinned multi-strand copper wire formed into a loop around the stub wire. Solder the two wires together.
--in all soldering use just enough heat to get the solder melted and flowing; avoid melting the wire insulation.
--when a good contact has been made, verify continuity in the circuit.
--coat the connection with liquid vinyl electrical tape.
--protect the connection with some sort of plastic clamshell vent or other similar fitting; this will hide the connection, and also dress up the wire exit.
jaybird4 posted 04-16-2010 11:45 PM ET (US)
Jimh, Thanks for the detailed process info. I will go to the hardware store this weekend to purchase the needed supplies for this fix. You are most kind to help me with this...Jaybird4
jimh posted 04-17-2010 10:46 AM ET (US)
The illustration below shows the technique I recommend:
jimh posted 04-17-2010 11:00 AM ET (US)
One additional step to finish off:
--if the exit hole has become enlarged and the wires loose, use a small amount of electrician's sealant or putty (also known as DUM-DUM) to fill the hole.
jimh posted 04-17-2010 12:27 PM ET (US)
If the wiring that was accidently cut off remains available, it can be useful as a test:
--for setting the wire stripper gap;
--for determining what solvents or cleaners will be most effective at removing oxidation.
Use the cut-off wire to set up your wire stripper. You will want the wire stripper set perfectly so you do not accidently damage the remaining wire any further. Practice on the cut-off wire before trying to strip the remaining wire stub on the hull.
Use the cut-off wire to try various cleaners and solvents for removing any oxidation. In some severe cases of oxidation and contamination of copper wire, you may have to resort to using a mild abrasive to remove the oxidation and dirt. Try sanding with WD-40 as a wetting agent and use emery cloth or paper with approximately 200-grit. You just need to get most of the exposed surface of the wire clean so that it will take solder.
Test soldering the cut-off wire remains will also help you judge the melting temperature of the wire insulation. You will learn how much heat can be used before the insulation begins to melt.
jaybird4 posted 04-18-2010 11:45 PM ET (US)
Jimh, Your drawings are a great help(and very accurate to what my problem is), thank you so much. I suppose I need to use solid wire to connect to the solid wire that is shown as old in your drawings. Is this correct? Jaybird4
number9 posted 04-19-2010 03:18 AM ET (US)
You should use new marine grade tinned multi-strand copper wire, not solid. If you look closely the looped wire has strands but just not in as much detail.
jimh posted 04-19-2010 08:41 AM ET (US)
Quoting myself:
"--connect to the bare wire with a new marine grade tinned multi-strand copper wire formed into a loop around the stub wire. Solder the two wires together."
jaybird4 posted 04-19-2010 10:43 PM ET (US)
Where would one buy marine grade tinned multistrand wire? I will be in Columbia SC tomorrow and they have a West Marine store. Should I look there. What does tinned mean by the way? Lots of questions, but my stearn light came today from Specialty Marine(seems way too tall, might take it to the tech school where I work to take about a foot off)and I'll need to get the wire, a solder gun some solder and the rubber wrap that you heat to cover and protect the splice. Thanks Jimh and others for your help.....Jaybird4
jimh posted 04-19-2010 11:01 PM ET (US)
I very strongly recommend AGAINST using heat shrink on this splice. I am not sure why I have to repeat all my recommendations twice:
"--coat the connection with liquid vinyl electrical tape."
Liquid vinyl electrical tape is sold in liquid form. You paint it on the electrical conductors, and then it dries into a flexible insulation.
You get marine grade multi-stranned tinned wire anywhere marine grade multi-stranded tinned wire is sold, which is just about at any ship chandlery. You only need a foot of wire, so just get it at WEST Marine.
ASIDE: On a completely unrelated topic, you do not want to cut down the pole on the navigation sternlight lamp. It needs to be at least 39-inches higher than the sidelights.

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Author	Topic: Splicing Wiring Accidently Cut Almost Flush With Hull
jaybird4	posted 04-12-2010 11:04 PM ET (US) Hey guys, I am in the process of fixing up a [1978] Sport 15 that I have had for a year. In the process of taking things apart, I made a grave error in removing the wiring block on the port side and snipping the wire behind it. I thought the [combined sidelight lamp at the bow] was wired down the starboard side from the console. Now I have only about 1/8-inch of the wire remaining and too short to splice into another wire. I tried drilling a 1/4-inch hole just forward of the hole with the wire in hopes of reaching the bend of the wire toward the bow and getting a small amount of extra wire to work with. I have drilled about 3/4-inch into wood and have not discovered the wire. Any thoughts from y'all about how I might best tackle this problem are greatly appreciated. Jaybird4
MattInSanDiego	posted 04-13-2010 01:59 AM ET (US) The bow light wires on my 18 were run inside the black rub rail. The wires were not inside the hull. Pull the rub rail off and run new wires. Bring a hair dryer, rubber mallet, and friend with you to this project. Oh, one more thing...stop drilling holes! :-)
jimh	posted 04-13-2010 09:08 AM ET (US) If there is any length at all of exposed wire remaining at the original point of exit from the hull in the stern, you need to re-connect to that wiring. If it is not possible to make a new connection to the existing wiring, read the FAQ on this topic at: Q4: How Do I Repair the Wiring for the Combined Sidelights at the Bow? http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/FAQ/#Q4
jaybird4	posted 04-15-2010 02:00 PM ET (US) Jimh, A belated thanks for your reply. I will go by a good hardware store to get their suggestions for splicing into the 1/8" I have to work with. Regards...Jaybird4
contender	posted 04-15-2010 03:36 PM ET (US) If you know how to solder you could try that, Just use some heat shrink and coat it with some silicon. Good luck
jimh	posted 04-15-2010 04:54 PM ET (US) I recommend trying the following: --carefully strip the insulation from the end of the wire stub emerging from the hull; --it is common that older wires will have the copper contaminated with oxidation and gunk from the vinyl or PVC wire insulation; this must be carefully cleaned and removed before trying to solder. Try using a cleaner that says it will remove oxidation from copper pans. --with the bare wire clean, tin the wire with solder. --connect to the bare wire with a new marine grade tinned multi-strand copper wire formed into a loop around the stub wire. Solder the two wires together. --in all soldering use just enough heat to get the solder melted and flowing; avoid melting the wire insulation. --when a good contact has been made, verify continuity in the circuit. --coat the connection with liquid vinyl electrical tape. --protect the connection with some sort of plastic clamshell vent or other similar fitting; this will hide the connection, and also dress up the wire exit.
jaybird4	posted 04-16-2010 11:45 PM ET (US) Jimh, Thanks for the detailed process info. I will go to the hardware store this weekend to purchase the needed supplies for this fix. You are most kind to help me with this...Jaybird4
jimh	posted 04-17-2010 10:46 AM ET (US) The illustration below shows the technique I recommend:
jimh	posted 04-17-2010 11:00 AM ET (US) One additional step to finish off: --if the exit hole has become enlarged and the wires loose, use a small amount of electrician's sealant or putty (also known as DUM-DUM) to fill the hole.
jimh	posted 04-17-2010 12:27 PM ET (US) If the wiring that was accidently cut off remains available, it can be useful as a test: --for setting the wire stripper gap; --for determining what solvents or cleaners will be most effective at removing oxidation. Use the cut-off wire to set up your wire stripper. You will want the wire stripper set perfectly so you do not accidently damage the remaining wire any further. Practice on the cut-off wire before trying to strip the remaining wire stub on the hull. Use the cut-off wire to try various cleaners and solvents for removing any oxidation. In some severe cases of oxidation and contamination of copper wire, you may have to resort to using a mild abrasive to remove the oxidation and dirt. Try sanding with WD-40 as a wetting agent and use emery cloth or paper with approximately 200-grit. You just need to get most of the exposed surface of the wire clean so that it will take solder. Test soldering the cut-off wire remains will also help you judge the melting temperature of the wire insulation. You will learn how much heat can be used before the insulation begins to melt.
jaybird4	posted 04-18-2010 11:45 PM ET (US) Jimh, Your drawings are a great help(and very accurate to what my problem is), thank you so much. I suppose I need to use solid wire to connect to the solid wire that is shown as old in your drawings. Is this correct? Jaybird4
number9	posted 04-19-2010 03:18 AM ET (US) You should use new marine grade tinned multi-strand copper wire, not solid. If you look closely the looped wire has strands but just not in as much detail.
jimh	posted 04-19-2010 08:41 AM ET (US) Quoting myself: "--connect to the bare wire with a new marine grade tinned multi-strand copper wire formed into a loop around the stub wire. Solder the two wires together."
jaybird4	posted 04-19-2010 10:43 PM ET (US) Where would one buy marine grade tinned multistrand wire? I will be in Columbia SC tomorrow and they have a West Marine store. Should I look there. What does tinned mean by the way? Lots of questions, but my stearn light came today from Specialty Marine(seems way too tall, might take it to the tech school where I work to take about a foot off)and I'll need to get the wire, a solder gun some solder and the rubber wrap that you heat to cover and protect the splice. Thanks Jimh and others for your help.....Jaybird4
jimh	posted 04-19-2010 11:01 PM ET (US) I very strongly recommend AGAINST using heat shrink on this splice. I am not sure why I have to repeat all my recommendations twice: "--coat the connection with liquid vinyl electrical tape." Liquid vinyl electrical tape is sold in liquid form. You paint it on the electrical conductors, and then it dries into a flexible insulation. You get marine grade multi-stranned tinned wire anywhere marine grade multi-stranded tinned wire is sold, which is just about at any ship chandlery. You only need a foot of wire, so just get it at WEST Marine. ASIDE: On a completely unrelated topic, you do not want to cut down the pole on the navigation sternlight lamp. It needs to be at least 39-inches higher than the sidelights.