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Author Topic:   Repairing Old Holes From SONAR Mounts

13thwarrior posted 04-25-2010 08:20 PM ET (US)
I bought a 1990 REVENGE 22 W-T with Whaler Drive. I had the bottom paint removed this spring and found about 10 screw holes in the bottom of the transom of the Whaler Drive. These screw holes were for fish finder or depth finders. The holes have been weeping water all spring. Is the transom of the Whaler Drive composed of wood, metal, or just fiberglass? If wood, should I have someone use a water meter to check how waterlogged the wood is? If wood and it is waterlogged, what is the best way to dry it out? If wood, will I ever be able to dry it out if the foam floation is water logged? If the transom is metal on top and just fiberglass below, and the foam floation is water logged, should I just epoxy the screw holes? Thank you, any input is greatly appreciated.
Paul
jimh posted 04-25-2010 10:03 PM ET (US)
The construction of the transom of a Whaler Drive is just like the transom on a normal Boston Whaler hull. There is wood reinforcement. It is too bad these ten holes were left submerged and water was allowed to penetrate.
If the boat is being kept out of the water, let the transom dry out from the natural draining of the water. Once it slows down, you can investigate further. Was the boat kept in freshwater or saltwater?
MATTANZA posted 04-25-2010 11:51 PM ET (US)
[I]'d drill the holes out depending on where they are to 1/4-inch, crank the trailer jack all the way up, and let the water drain. [Y]ou might want to drill some small drain holes in the bottom of the boat, too. [W]hen the boat [dries] out use an epoxy. [I]f dry [I]'d use [M]arine [T]ex with chopped fiberglass fibers mixed in. [I]f damp use [unclear, possibly meant Permalite Sea Goin' Poxy Quick Putty]. [I]t cures under water.
13thwarrior posted 04-26-2010 08:21 PM ET (US)
Thank you for your advice. The holes are in an area of about 4 inches x 4 inches near the hull. The boat was in saltwater and the holes were covered with bottom paint ( except for the current sonar holes which were not sealed. The boat is on blocks and stands (can't be easily jacked up) and there has been a slow weeping.
Boston whaler corporate recommended wet vac and heat then replace fiberglass and then gel coat. Someone recommended cutting and removing the fiberglass of the 4 inch by 4 inch area of holes to allow more surface area to wick from, then heating it. My marina who originally wanted to just epoxy over the area now wants to cut out the entire piece of wood ( since I started asking questions). What is a reasonable plan?
How much water can the foam hold? Should I inject epoxy deep into the holes to stop water from leaking out of the foam into the wood, and then dry the wood with the outer fiberglass off (4 x 4)?
I know i will never gain back structural integrity, I just don't want it to get worse.
Thank you all,
Paul

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Author	Topic: Repairing Old Holes From SONAR Mounts
13thwarrior	posted 04-25-2010 08:20 PM ET (US) I bought a 1990 REVENGE 22 W-T with Whaler Drive. I had the bottom paint removed this spring and found about 10 screw holes in the bottom of the transom of the Whaler Drive. These screw holes were for fish finder or depth finders. The holes have been weeping water all spring. Is the transom of the Whaler Drive composed of wood, metal, or just fiberglass? If wood, should I have someone use a water meter to check how waterlogged the wood is? If wood and it is waterlogged, what is the best way to dry it out? If wood, will I ever be able to dry it out if the foam floation is water logged? If the transom is metal on top and just fiberglass below, and the foam floation is water logged, should I just epoxy the screw holes? Thank you, any input is greatly appreciated. Paul
jimh	posted 04-25-2010 10:03 PM ET (US) The construction of the transom of a Whaler Drive is just like the transom on a normal Boston Whaler hull. There is wood reinforcement. It is too bad these ten holes were left submerged and water was allowed to penetrate. If the boat is being kept out of the water, let the transom dry out from the natural draining of the water. Once it slows down, you can investigate further. Was the boat kept in freshwater or saltwater?
MATTANZA	posted 04-25-2010 11:51 PM ET (US) [I]'d drill the holes out depending on where they are to 1/4-inch, crank the trailer jack all the way up, and let the water drain. [Y]ou might want to drill some small drain holes in the bottom of the boat, too. [W]hen the boat [dries] out use an epoxy. [I]f dry [I]'d use [M]arine [T]ex with chopped fiberglass fibers mixed in. [I]f damp use [unclear, possibly meant Permalite Sea Goin' Poxy Quick Putty]. [I]t cures under water.
13thwarrior	posted 04-26-2010 08:21 PM ET (US) Thank you for your advice. The holes are in an area of about 4 inches x 4 inches near the hull. The boat was in saltwater and the holes were covered with bottom paint ( except for the current sonar holes which were not sealed. The boat is on blocks and stands (can't be easily jacked up) and there has been a slow weeping. Boston whaler corporate recommended wet vac and heat then replace fiberglass and then gel coat. Someone recommended cutting and removing the fiberglass of the 4 inch by 4 inch area of holes to allow more surface area to wick from, then heating it. My marina who originally wanted to just epoxy over the area now wants to cut out the entire piece of wood ( since I started asking questions). What is a reasonable plan? How much water can the foam hold? Should I inject epoxy deep into the holes to stop water from leaking out of the foam into the wood, and then dry the wood with the outer fiberglass off (4 x 4)? I know i will never gain back structural integrity, I just don't want it to get worse. Thank you all, Paul