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Author Topic:   Mahogany console dash panel

Raaaaay posted 05-15-2010 08:50 PM ET (US)
I my repowering my 1973 Outrage 19' I need to replace the mahogany dash panel that holds the gauges and switches. The current mahogany is about 23" X 5 1/2" X 1/2 thick and has wasy too many holes of incorrect size for my new gauges and switches.
The holes in the fiberglass console are pretty ragged and I probably want to use one long piece of wood, or possibly 2 pieces.
I am of the thinking that the original wood panel wasnt 1/2" thick.
What is the correct type and size of wood that was originally used in this "winged" console??
Where can I acquire such a piece of mahogany??
Pics would be helpful if anybody has any.

dscew posted 05-15-2010 09:44 PM ET (US)
The instrument panel in my 74 BW Katama is varnished mahogany plywood, 1/4" thick. You might try Mike at Nautical Lumber in Michigan. He posts here sometimes and there are several posts lauding his work.
L H G posted 05-16-2010 12:45 AM ET (US)
The original instrument panels in the 19/21 Outrage winged console were 1/4" teak plywood, 9" x 5-1/2". The electrical switches were in the Port panel and a fuel gauge with on/off pull switch was located between them.
Here is an all original console, with the exception that I replaced the originals with solid teak panels 3/8" thick, 45 degree edge champher. Because of a switch in power, I put a panel under the engine control also.
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v429/lgoltz/Outrage%2019/?action=view& current=Scan0029.jpg
Raaaaay posted 05-16-2010 10:43 AM ET (US)
The teak is varnished not oiled...correct?
I know another CW member had stated that the panels were Mahogany in the early 70's then switching to Teak in the later 70's. LHG...what year is your Outrage?? and what was the reasoning for going to 3/8"??
contender posted 05-16-2010 12:34 PM ET (US)
Try a custom cabinet shop, marine yard, marine lumber place in your neck of the woods. I'm sure you can fine something local (I'm not saying that mike does not do a great job), just for something like this it might be better to find something local...
contender posted 05-16-2010 12:34 PM ET (US)
Try a custom cabinet shop, marine yard, marine lumber place in your neck of the woods. I'm sure you can fine something local (I'm not saying that mike does not do a great job), just for something like this it might be better to find something local...
L H G posted 05-17-2010 01:37 AM ET (US)
Ray - All teak in the Outrage family of boats was oiled as delivered from the factory, including the instrument panels, 1971-1993. To the best of my knowledge, BW NEVER varnished teak components. Now, many people like to do it for the yacht-like effect, less maintenance and overall appearance.
My boat is hull #750, a 1975 model year boat, manufactured late Oct 1974.
The only mahogany instrument panels were used on the Nauset/Sakonnet series 16's.
I used 3/8" thickness since I was using solid teak, not marine plywood teak which is stronger. Small quantities of teak marine plywood are hard to find, and the solid wood is better for varnishing, with no chance of edge grain delamination.
Raaaaay posted 05-17-2010 02:26 AM ET (US)
LHG..thanks for the follow-up comments. I was just fooled by the look of your dash panel, being varnished, it looked like mahogany, not teak. It looks fantastic.
I will search for some solid teak about 5 1/2" X 24" X 3/8".
Thanks again
Ray
dscew posted 05-17-2010 08:49 AM ET (US)
Larry, the varnished teak on your boat is stunning. I've undertaken the removal and finishing of a large amount of solid teak from my vintage Cruisers 26' Bar Harbor. None of this teak was ever varnished, and only occasionally oiled. After a thorough sanding the 1st piece, I noticed the color of the teak really darkens with the same varnish that I've used for mahogany (Z Spar Flagship). Was that your experience as well, and what varnish did you use? It's pretty, but much darker than I expected.
L H G posted 05-17-2010 02:38 PM ET (US)
Ray - the hardwood yard where I get my teak only stocks nominal 1" thickness, or greater. I had have it planed down to required thickness. A lot of waste, but that's the way it is in that place.
Thank you Dennis. I pre-stain all my teak with ZAR oil base #120 natural teak stain, than I also use the Z-Spar Flagship varnish, 10 coats or more. For my money, it's the best you can buy.
I have tried Interlux Schooner and found it to be terrible stuff, nor do I like Epiphanes. Found it doens't hold up well and dulls quickly.
nauticallumber posted 05-18-2010 12:14 PM ET (US)
Raaaaaaaaaaaay,
I have your 3/8 x 5 1/2 x 24 yacht quality teak for you.
$35 + shipping.
If you want a long lasting finish on the piece we can do that as well.
we can put 6 coats of vinylester resin & 3 coats of awlgrip 2000 over the top. nice clear deep finish that withstands the elements. It will outlast any varnish or oil finish by years.
Regards,
Mike
Nautical Lumber Co
Raaaaay posted 01-08-2011 12:43 PM ET (US)
I have contacted Mike at Nautical Lumber and he is making me up what I need. He will put on a long lasting finish and campher the top edge for a nice finished look.
I can hardly wait to get this and get my console back together and my Suzuki DF115 rigged.
L H G posted 01-08-2011 04:38 PM ET (US)
When I am finishing new teak instrument panels with varnish (or any other coating I would suppose), I think it is important to pre-cut the instrument and switch holes first. Then the raw edges can be coated also. Otherwise you are cutting through the finished surface with a hole saw or drill bit, leaving raw edges where delaminiation of the finish can occur, especialloy if water gets under the gauge (which it will).
dfmcintyre posted 01-08-2011 06:58 PM ET (US)
Raaaay -
Along with Larry's excellent advice, also keep in the back of your mind how to easily remove the piece (leaving the electrical hanging) during the off season to apply another coat. I made a slight error in the way some of my panels are attached and making it a two person job (or the arms of an monkey) to remove some of them.
L H G posted 01-09-2011 12:37 PM ET (US)
Along the lines of what Don is saying, in my last rigging job I worked out a way to completely remove a gauge panel by simply unplugging it, both the switch wires, and the gauge wires, using a plug for each set of wires.
Except for easy to detach speedometer and water pressure tubing, all wires to analog gauges originate out of the ignition harness (Ignition, negative, Tach Sender, Temp sender, & trim sender wires). For those, I use trailer type connectors, which come in 2, 4, 5 & 6 wire configurations, and easy to find. I like the "squarish" 6 pin connector, small and compact. It's simple - terminate the ignition harness wires into one of the plugs, and terminate the gauge wires from the panels into the mating plug. Plugs can also be used between the two panels if needed. This allows all instrument panel work to be done on a workbench or table, away from the boat, to easily remove gauges, switches and wiring under good working conditions for re-finishing if needed.
Electrical switch wiring works the same way with plug sizes as needed. I often integrate classic pull switches and gauges into the same panel. I use a Blue Seas 6 gang fuse block mounted to the inside of the consle, and DO NOT use the individual panel fuse system often used by Whaler, with buss bar mounted on the back of the panel. So I only have the push-pull switches in the panels, no fuses.
It makes for a very clean and easy to service wiring configuration inside the console. And note that these applications are mostly for the earlier Whalers, before the introduction of the newer 1983 center console.
Tom Hemphill posted 01-09-2011 06:40 PM ET (US)
Likewise, I have a terminal block under the console of my 13-foot Sport whose only purpose is to make it easy to remove the console for maintenance. (See http://hemphill.org/whaler/electrical_panel.jpg .)
tedious posted 01-10-2011 05:55 PM ET (US)
Just for reference (and on the original topic) I have found "that auction site" to be a very reasonable place to find small pieces of teak and mahogany. You don't necessarily find a fabulous price, but you can pick and choose sizes, and most sellers include pictures so you can find nice grain etc. Also, I have never been outbid on a piece - in fact, I don't think I have seen another bidder.
Tim

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Author	Topic: Mahogany console dash panel
Raaaaay	posted 05-15-2010 08:50 PM ET (US) I my repowering my 1973 Outrage 19' I need to replace the mahogany dash panel that holds the gauges and switches. The current mahogany is about 23" X 5 1/2" X 1/2 thick and has wasy too many holes of incorrect size for my new gauges and switches. The holes in the fiberglass console are pretty ragged and I probably want to use one long piece of wood, or possibly 2 pieces. I am of the thinking that the original wood panel wasnt 1/2" thick. What is the correct type and size of wood that was originally used in this "winged" console?? Where can I acquire such a piece of mahogany?? Pics would be helpful if anybody has any.
dscew	posted 05-15-2010 09:44 PM ET (US) The instrument panel in my 74 BW Katama is varnished mahogany plywood, 1/4" thick. You might try Mike at Nautical Lumber in Michigan. He posts here sometimes and there are several posts lauding his work.
L H G	posted 05-16-2010 12:45 AM ET (US) The original instrument panels in the 19/21 Outrage winged console were 1/4" teak plywood, 9" x 5-1/2". The electrical switches were in the Port panel and a fuel gauge with on/off pull switch was located between them. Here is an all original console, with the exception that I replaced the originals with solid teak panels 3/8" thick, 45 degree edge champher. Because of a switch in power, I put a panel under the engine control also. http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v429/lgoltz/Outrage%2019/?action=view& current=Scan0029.jpg
Raaaaay	posted 05-16-2010 10:43 AM ET (US) The teak is varnished not oiled...correct? I know another CW member had stated that the panels were Mahogany in the early 70's then switching to Teak in the later 70's. LHG...what year is your Outrage?? and what was the reasoning for going to 3/8"??
contender	posted 05-16-2010 12:34 PM ET (US) Try a custom cabinet shop, marine yard, marine lumber place in your neck of the woods. I'm sure you can fine something local (I'm not saying that mike does not do a great job), just for something like this it might be better to find something local...
contender	posted 05-16-2010 12:34 PM ET (US) Try a custom cabinet shop, marine yard, marine lumber place in your neck of the woods. I'm sure you can fine something local (I'm not saying that mike does not do a great job), just for something like this it might be better to find something local...
L H G	posted 05-17-2010 01:37 AM ET (US) Ray - All teak in the Outrage family of boats was oiled as delivered from the factory, including the instrument panels, 1971-1993. To the best of my knowledge, BW NEVER varnished teak components. Now, many people like to do it for the yacht-like effect, less maintenance and overall appearance. My boat is hull #750, a 1975 model year boat, manufactured late Oct 1974. The only mahogany instrument panels were used on the Nauset/Sakonnet series 16's. I used 3/8" thickness since I was using solid teak, not marine plywood teak which is stronger. Small quantities of teak marine plywood are hard to find, and the solid wood is better for varnishing, with no chance of edge grain delamination.
Raaaaay	posted 05-17-2010 02:26 AM ET (US) LHG..thanks for the follow-up comments. I was just fooled by the look of your dash panel, being varnished, it looked like mahogany, not teak. It looks fantastic. I will search for some solid teak about 5 1/2" X 24" X 3/8". Thanks again Ray
dscew	posted 05-17-2010 08:49 AM ET (US) Larry, the varnished teak on your boat is stunning. I've undertaken the removal and finishing of a large amount of solid teak from my vintage Cruisers 26' Bar Harbor. None of this teak was ever varnished, and only occasionally oiled. After a thorough sanding the 1st piece, I noticed the color of the teak really darkens with the same varnish that I've used for mahogany (Z Spar Flagship). Was that your experience as well, and what varnish did you use? It's pretty, but much darker than I expected.
L H G	posted 05-17-2010 02:38 PM ET (US) Ray - the hardwood yard where I get my teak only stocks nominal 1" thickness, or greater. I had have it planed down to required thickness. A lot of waste, but that's the way it is in that place. Thank you Dennis. I pre-stain all my teak with ZAR oil base #120 natural teak stain, than I also use the Z-Spar Flagship varnish, 10 coats or more. For my money, it's the best you can buy. I have tried Interlux Schooner and found it to be terrible stuff, nor do I like Epiphanes. Found it doens't hold up well and dulls quickly.
nauticallumber	posted 05-18-2010 12:14 PM ET (US) Raaaaaaaaaaaay, I have your 3/8 x 5 1/2 x 24 yacht quality teak for you. $35 + shipping. If you want a long lasting finish on the piece we can do that as well. we can put 6 coats of vinylester resin & 3 coats of awlgrip 2000 over the top. nice clear deep finish that withstands the elements. It will outlast any varnish or oil finish by years. Regards, Mike Nautical Lumber Co
Raaaaay	posted 01-08-2011 12:43 PM ET (US) I have contacted Mike at Nautical Lumber and he is making me up what I need. He will put on a long lasting finish and campher the top edge for a nice finished look. I can hardly wait to get this and get my console back together and my Suzuki DF115 rigged.
L H G	posted 01-08-2011 04:38 PM ET (US) When I am finishing new teak instrument panels with varnish (or any other coating I would suppose), I think it is important to pre-cut the instrument and switch holes first. Then the raw edges can be coated also. Otherwise you are cutting through the finished surface with a hole saw or drill bit, leaving raw edges where delaminiation of the finish can occur, especialloy if water gets under the gauge (which it will).
dfmcintyre	posted 01-08-2011 06:58 PM ET (US) Raaaay - Along with Larry's excellent advice, also keep in the back of your mind how to easily remove the piece (leaving the electrical hanging) during the off season to apply another coat. I made a slight error in the way some of my panels are attached and making it a two person job (or the arms of an monkey) to remove some of them.
L H G	posted 01-09-2011 12:37 PM ET (US) Along the lines of what Don is saying, in my last rigging job I worked out a way to completely remove a gauge panel by simply unplugging it, both the switch wires, and the gauge wires, using a plug for each set of wires. Except for easy to detach speedometer and water pressure tubing, all wires to analog gauges originate out of the ignition harness (Ignition, negative, Tach Sender, Temp sender, & trim sender wires). For those, I use trailer type connectors, which come in 2, 4, 5 & 6 wire configurations, and easy to find. I like the "squarish" 6 pin connector, small and compact. It's simple - terminate the ignition harness wires into one of the plugs, and terminate the gauge wires from the panels into the mating plug. Plugs can also be used between the two panels if needed. This allows all instrument panel work to be done on a workbench or table, away from the boat, to easily remove gauges, switches and wiring under good working conditions for re-finishing if needed. Electrical switch wiring works the same way with plug sizes as needed. I often integrate classic pull switches and gauges into the same panel. I use a Blue Seas 6 gang fuse block mounted to the inside of the consle, and DO NOT use the individual panel fuse system often used by Whaler, with buss bar mounted on the back of the panel. So I only have the push-pull switches in the panels, no fuses. It makes for a very clean and easy to service wiring configuration inside the console. And note that these applications are mostly for the earlier Whalers, before the introduction of the newer 1983 center console.
Tom Hemphill	posted 01-09-2011 06:40 PM ET (US) Likewise, I have a terminal block under the console of my 13-foot Sport whose only purpose is to make it easy to remove the console for maintenance. (See http://hemphill.org/whaler/electrical_panel.jpg .)
tedious	posted 01-10-2011 05:55 PM ET (US) Just for reference (and on the original topic) I have found "that auction site" to be a very reasonable place to find small pieces of teak and mahogany. You don't necessarily find a fabulous price, but you can pick and choose sizes, and most sellers include pictures so you can find nice grain etc. Also, I have never been outbid on a piece - in fact, I don't think I have seen another bidder. Tim