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Author Topic:   Motor won’t start after running perfect

dg22 posted 05-31-2010 03:02 PM ET (US)
I have 1972 50HP Evinrude Electric Start on my 13 footer which I put in the water this weekend. It ran perfect for the 1st ride out but when I went to go out again it started up but then stalled after a few minutes while idling. It then would not start. I checked all the obvious stuff first like the gas line, safety switch on the throttle and the fuel filter on the motor. I even tried some Quick Start and tried again after a few hours but no luck.
I brought it home and checked the compression and it’s 120psi on both cylinders. I then checked for spark and nothing. I checked for spark with both the ignition on and also with the wiring harness disconnected and no spark. I checked the fuse by the Power Pack and it looks fine and I’m not sure what to check next.
Any ideas?
Dave

wstr75 posted 05-31-2010 05:35 PM ET (US)
I had a Honda 45 hp motor that did the same thing when I first bought the boat. When I took it into the shop, the mechanic said the carburetors (it had three) were gunked-up. He said what probably happened was the stuff was in the carburetors but not in the way for the first time you ran the motor. However, it got moved around with the vibrations & fuel flow during the first run and then settled into the jets and other critical passages. He then demonstrated how to drain the individual carburetors and I never had that problem again.
Bill in NC
wstr75 posted 05-31-2010 05:42 PM ET (US)
To clarify, the mechanic rebuilt the carburetors and then showed me how to avoid the problem again by strongly suggesting draining the carburetor fuel bowls if the motor were to sit for longer than a month.
Bill Batten
dg22 posted 05-31-2010 06:42 PM ET (US)
Bill, thanks for the feedback. I did fog the carbs in the fall but will check. Since I have no spark, the only thing I can think of is the Stator. Coils are newer and typically they don't both go at once. I'll see if my brother has a voltmeter.
Stevebaz posted 05-31-2010 07:08 PM ET (US)
Check your safety switch and tether. unclip it and reset the clip or switch. Could also be your key switch.
burning_hXc_soul posted 05-31-2010 08:36 PM ET (US)
Sounds like what happened to me on my (gulp) Jet ski... ha-ha. It ran like a bat outta hell all day long at the lake and then the next time I tried to take it out, nothing. Took it back to the house and broke out the manual and started going through the ignition system with a multimeter till I figured out that it was the stator.
Invest in a quality multimeter like a fluke or something better than the 3 dollar Walmart job. Its an invaluable tool especially if you own a lot of toys and you like to do the work yourself.
dg22 posted 05-31-2010 09:31 PM ET (US)
I was going through my service manual tonight and I think I'll start with the key switch check they describe which is simply disconnecting the key switch lead to the power pack, cranking it over and checking for a spark. Hopefully it is just a pinched or frayed lead and not the power pack or stator.
I really appreciate the replies. I hope to get back on water soon.
dg22 posted 06-01-2010 12:31 PM ET (US)
I did the key switch check on the power pack and still no spark. I took a closer look under the flywheel and there is a dark thick goop which has dripped down from the stator area onto the powerhead. I think it is coming from the charge coils which are part of the stator assembly. At this point, I'm almost certain I need a new stator assembly.
burning_hXc_soul, bizarre how well your motor and mine ran just before the stator actually went. My son and I were flying around the lake and I was saying how well it was running. Thanks for the tip on the multimeter. I think I'll pick one up and double check before I order a new stator.

Tohsgib posted 06-01-2010 12:38 PM ET (US)
Sounds like a stator. To test anything that is not engine related you unplug the wiring harness at the engine and pull start with a rope. If you have spark then it is either wiring, keyswitch, safety switch or neutral safety switch. If you still have no spark either powerpack, stator, trigger, or coils. On the early OMC's like yours the old pwerpacks were junk and expensive. My Father's 1972 100hp would blow one about every year, I hope the newer aftermarkets are better.
dg22 posted 06-01-2010 02:53 PM ET (US)
Tohsgib, thanks I wasn't 100% sure about that -- I did check it unplugged and had no spark. I still need to do a check on the stator and probably should test the power pack too.
dg22 posted 06-28-2010 10:37 AM ET (US)
It turned out that I needed a new stator and power pack. I'm guessing when the stator went it damaged the power pack. I was just glad the stator was only $225 for my motor and I went with the after market Sierra power pack for $120. By the way, always check with your local dealer first on the price of parts before buying off ebay. In my case, the price was the same from my local dealer.
The motor runs great again. Thanks again for the feedback.

jimh posted 06-28-2010 10:02 PM ET (US)
Check your primary power connections at the battery. Loose connections at the battery can cause damage to engine electronic components.
dg22 posted 06-29-2010 09:49 AM ET (US)
I actually did have to clean up the battery connections this past weekend on the 2nd day. Good thing I didn't fry another power pack. Thanks for the tip. I'll definitely keep that in mind and keep the battery connections clean and tight.

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Author	Topic: Motor won’t start after running perfect
dg22	posted 05-31-2010 03:02 PM ET (US) I have 1972 50HP Evinrude Electric Start on my 13 footer which I put in the water this weekend. It ran perfect for the 1st ride out but when I went to go out again it started up but then stalled after a few minutes while idling. It then would not start. I checked all the obvious stuff first like the gas line, safety switch on the throttle and the fuel filter on the motor. I even tried some Quick Start and tried again after a few hours but no luck. I brought it home and checked the compression and it’s 120psi on both cylinders. I then checked for spark and nothing. I checked for spark with both the ignition on and also with the wiring harness disconnected and no spark. I checked the fuse by the Power Pack and it looks fine and I’m not sure what to check next. Any ideas? Dave
wstr75	posted 05-31-2010 05:35 PM ET (US) I had a Honda 45 hp motor that did the same thing when I first bought the boat. When I took it into the shop, the mechanic said the carburetors (it had three) were gunked-up. He said what probably happened was the stuff was in the carburetors but not in the way for the first time you ran the motor. However, it got moved around with the vibrations & fuel flow during the first run and then settled into the jets and other critical passages. He then demonstrated how to drain the individual carburetors and I never had that problem again. Bill in NC
wstr75	posted 05-31-2010 05:42 PM ET (US) To clarify, the mechanic rebuilt the carburetors and then showed me how to avoid the problem again by strongly suggesting draining the carburetor fuel bowls if the motor were to sit for longer than a month. Bill Batten
dg22	posted 05-31-2010 06:42 PM ET (US) Bill, thanks for the feedback. I did fog the carbs in the fall but will check. Since I have no spark, the only thing I can think of is the Stator. Coils are newer and typically they don't both go at once. I'll see if my brother has a voltmeter.
Stevebaz	posted 05-31-2010 07:08 PM ET (US) Check your safety switch and tether. unclip it and reset the clip or switch. Could also be your key switch.
burning_hXc_soul	posted 05-31-2010 08:36 PM ET (US) Sounds like what happened to me on my (gulp) Jet ski... ha-ha. It ran like a bat outta hell all day long at the lake and then the next time I tried to take it out, nothing. Took it back to the house and broke out the manual and started going through the ignition system with a multimeter till I figured out that it was the stator. Invest in a quality multimeter like a fluke or something better than the 3 dollar Walmart job. Its an invaluable tool especially if you own a lot of toys and you like to do the work yourself.
dg22	posted 05-31-2010 09:31 PM ET (US) I was going through my service manual tonight and I think I'll start with the key switch check they describe which is simply disconnecting the key switch lead to the power pack, cranking it over and checking for a spark. Hopefully it is just a pinched or frayed lead and not the power pack or stator. I really appreciate the replies. I hope to get back on water soon.
dg22	posted 06-01-2010 12:31 PM ET (US) I did the key switch check on the power pack and still no spark. I took a closer look under the flywheel and there is a dark thick goop which has dripped down from the stator area onto the powerhead. I think it is coming from the charge coils which are part of the stator assembly. At this point, I'm almost certain I need a new stator assembly. burning_hXc_soul, bizarre how well your motor and mine ran just before the stator actually went. My son and I were flying around the lake and I was saying how well it was running. Thanks for the tip on the multimeter. I think I'll pick one up and double check before I order a new stator.
Tohsgib	posted 06-01-2010 12:38 PM ET (US) Sounds like a stator. To test anything that is not engine related you unplug the wiring harness at the engine and pull start with a rope. If you have spark then it is either wiring, keyswitch, safety switch or neutral safety switch. If you still have no spark either powerpack, stator, trigger, or coils. On the early OMC's like yours the old pwerpacks were junk and expensive. My Father's 1972 100hp would blow one about every year, I hope the newer aftermarkets are better.
dg22	posted 06-01-2010 02:53 PM ET (US) Tohsgib, thanks I wasn't 100% sure about that -- I did check it unplugged and had no spark. I still need to do a check on the stator and probably should test the power pack too.
dg22	posted 06-28-2010 10:37 AM ET (US) It turned out that I needed a new stator and power pack. I'm guessing when the stator went it damaged the power pack. I was just glad the stator was only $225 for my motor and I went with the after market Sierra power pack for $120. By the way, always check with your local dealer first on the price of parts before buying off ebay. In my case, the price was the same from my local dealer. The motor runs great again. Thanks again for the feedback.
jimh	posted 06-28-2010 10:02 PM ET (US) Check your primary power connections at the battery. Loose connections at the battery can cause damage to engine electronic components.
dg22	posted 06-29-2010 09:49 AM ET (US) I actually did have to clean up the battery connections this past weekend on the 2nd day. Good thing I didn't fry another power pack. Thanks for the tip. I'll definitely keep that in mind and keep the battery connections clean and tight.