3M Marine Adhesive/Sealant 4200/5200 Properties

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Author Topic:   3M Marine Adhesive/Sealant 4200/5200 Properties

Tom Hemphill posted 06-06-2010 04:20 PM ET (US)
Much discussion on this site mentions the use of 3M's 4200 and 5200 marine adhesive/sealant. Lots of advise given on the use of these products contradicts my experience.
In my experience, 4200 and 5200 are the same, except the latter cures faster. Concerns that 5200 has greater adhesive properties and is thus "permanent" don't coincide with my experience. I just removed some woodwork from my boat which two years ago was installed with a dollop of 5200 under each screw. It came off fine with a little bit of prying.
I've always used 4200 or 5200 wherever the fiberglass of the hull will be penetrated, including through-hull attachments (like mounting the motor). It does just what I want: keeps the water out, adheres well, stays pliable forever, but can be removed without a huge amount of effort.
3M 4200/5200 is completely unsuitable for fixing the situation where a screw has pulled out from its attachment point, I think. It doesn't have any magical properties.

contender posted 06-06-2010 07:21 PM ET (US)
Tom: I do not know if it is true or not for I have only ever used 5200, Were I purchase my 5200 I have seen a couple of different colors for 5200, I have seen fast cure and reg 5200, and have seen 4200. But also were I purchase my 5200's this what I have found strange, reg 5200 is 10.99 a tube, a small tube is 11.99, fast cure 5200 or 4200 is $19.00 a tube. This is why I have only ever used 5200 I do not know if it a price error or what, but I pay $11 a tube so its a no brainer for me.
Tom W Clark posted 06-06-2010 07:25 PM ET (US)
Well, I agree that the qualities of 3M 5200 are not well understood and grossly overstated.
There is a difference, in my decades of experience with them, that 5200 has a stronger bond than 4200. Both are caulks that seal and both provide adhesion, though 4200 has less grip
Both cure slowly and both are available in a Fast Cure form that cures in a couple days instead of a week or more.
I also agree that 5200 or 4200 are not superglue and should not be considered as a replacement for a screw's grip; it doesn't work that way.
WaterWorldBoating posted 06-19-2010 04:49 PM ET (US)
If you were going to use a thin bead of sealant around each side the brass drain tube thru hulls on 1968 13 Sport which sealant would you use? My brass tubes look ok however there is a black rubber ring on each side that I doubt is still flexible and useful. The sealant would be used on already in place thru hulls not while replacing them. Hope this is makes sense. Thx Chris
contender posted 06-19-2010 05:46 PM ET (US)
I would use the 5200, However in your case I bet the drain plug has leaked, I would remove it, clean it out, and replace it using 5200 around the new brass drain plug...
BeSomebody86 posted 06-21-2010 10:18 AM ET (US)
Continuing this discussion...what type of sealant would you use if you were putting stainless screws in 4 small holes on the vertical side of the gunnel? I think the holes are from an old electrical/fuse box like the one used for the stern light. They don't look bad, I just don't want any water to get into the boat.
Also, what type of sealant would you use for the 4 screw holes on the sump cover? I want it to be water tight, but want to be able to take the cover off if I ever need to access the bilge.
Thanks!
Tom W Clark posted 06-21-2010 10:34 AM ET (US)
Any of the above mentioned sealant will be appropriate for the job, including 3M 5200.
number9 posted 06-21-2010 05:27 PM ET (US)
A marine adhesive/sealant with a high bonding strength used on fasteners is easy to break loose by rotational force due to the small surface area.
BeSomebody86 posted 06-22-2010 03:08 PM ET (US)
Perfect, thanks Tom and number9!
Woodwright posted 04-22-2014 03:46 PM ET (US)
[Revived this thread after it had been dormant for four years to seek advice on repairing aluminum boats with riveted fasteners]
jimh posted 04-23-2014 07:59 AM ET (US)
Boston Whaler has made a few aluminum boats, but they were welded, not riveted.
floater88 posted 04-23-2014 08:38 AM ET (US)
[Changed topic to seek advice about repair of loose fasteners.]
jimh posted 04-23-2014 06:24 PM ET (US)
To provide threaded fasteners with a new material to thread into, see
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/FAQ/#Q7
Fellas--this thread is four years old. You can start a new thread to ask how to make a repair to your boat. Please stop reviving this old whose topic is about a specific adhesive.
This thread is closed. Please start your new topics in REPAIRS/MODS as necessary. Thank you.

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Author	Topic: 3M Marine Adhesive/Sealant 4200/5200 Properties
Tom Hemphill	posted 06-06-2010 04:20 PM ET (US) Much discussion on this site mentions the use of 3M's 4200 and 5200 marine adhesive/sealant. Lots of advise given on the use of these products contradicts my experience. In my experience, 4200 and 5200 are the same, except the latter cures faster. Concerns that 5200 has greater adhesive properties and is thus "permanent" don't coincide with my experience. I just removed some woodwork from my boat which two years ago was installed with a dollop of 5200 under each screw. It came off fine with a little bit of prying. I've always used 4200 or 5200 wherever the fiberglass of the hull will be penetrated, including through-hull attachments (like mounting the motor). It does just what I want: keeps the water out, adheres well, stays pliable forever, but can be removed without a huge amount of effort. 3M 4200/5200 is completely unsuitable for fixing the situation where a screw has pulled out from its attachment point, I think. It doesn't have any magical properties.
contender	posted 06-06-2010 07:21 PM ET (US) Tom: I do not know if it is true or not for I have only ever used 5200, Were I purchase my 5200 I have seen a couple of different colors for 5200, I have seen fast cure and reg 5200, and have seen 4200. But also were I purchase my 5200's this what I have found strange, reg 5200 is 10.99 a tube, a small tube is 11.99, fast cure 5200 or 4200 is $19.00 a tube. This is why I have only ever used 5200 I do not know if it a price error or what, but I pay $11 a tube so its a no brainer for me.
Tom W Clark	posted 06-06-2010 07:25 PM ET (US) Well, I agree that the qualities of 3M 5200 are not well understood and grossly overstated. There is a difference, in my decades of experience with them, that 5200 has a stronger bond than 4200. Both are caulks that seal and both provide adhesion, though 4200 has less grip Both cure slowly and both are available in a Fast Cure form that cures in a couple days instead of a week or more. I also agree that 5200 or 4200 are not superglue and should not be considered as a replacement for a screw's grip; it doesn't work that way.
WaterWorldBoating	posted 06-19-2010 04:49 PM ET (US) If you were going to use a thin bead of sealant around each side the brass drain tube thru hulls on 1968 13 Sport which sealant would you use? My brass tubes look ok however there is a black rubber ring on each side that I doubt is still flexible and useful. The sealant would be used on already in place thru hulls not while replacing them. Hope this is makes sense. Thx Chris
contender	posted 06-19-2010 05:46 PM ET (US) I would use the 5200, However in your case I bet the drain plug has leaked, I would remove it, clean it out, and replace it using 5200 around the new brass drain plug...
BeSomebody86	posted 06-21-2010 10:18 AM ET (US) Continuing this discussion...what type of sealant would you use if you were putting stainless screws in 4 small holes on the vertical side of the gunnel? I think the holes are from an old electrical/fuse box like the one used for the stern light. They don't look bad, I just don't want any water to get into the boat. Also, what type of sealant would you use for the 4 screw holes on the sump cover? I want it to be water tight, but want to be able to take the cover off if I ever need to access the bilge. Thanks!
Tom W Clark	posted 06-21-2010 10:34 AM ET (US) Any of the above mentioned sealant will be appropriate for the job, including 3M 5200.
number9	posted 06-21-2010 05:27 PM ET (US) A marine adhesive/sealant with a high bonding strength used on fasteners is easy to break loose by rotational force due to the small surface area.
BeSomebody86	posted 06-22-2010 03:08 PM ET (US) Perfect, thanks Tom and number9!
Woodwright	posted 04-22-2014 03:46 PM ET (US) [Revived this thread after it had been dormant for four years to seek advice on repairing aluminum boats with riveted fasteners]
jimh	posted 04-23-2014 07:59 AM ET (US) Boston Whaler has made a few aluminum boats, but they were welded, not riveted.
floater88	posted 04-23-2014 08:38 AM ET (US) [Changed topic to seek advice about repair of loose fasteners.]
jimh	posted 04-23-2014 06:24 PM ET (US) To provide threaded fasteners with a new material to thread into, see http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/FAQ/#Q7 Fellas--this thread is four years old. You can start a new thread to ask how to make a repair to your boat. Please stop reviving this old whose topic is about a specific adhesive. This thread is closed. Please start your new topics in REPAIRS/MODS as necessary. Thank you.