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1980 REVENGE 22: Repairing Seam Between Hull and Cabin Joint
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ContinuousWave Whaler Moderated Discussion Areas
ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
1980 REVENGE 22: Repairing Seam Between Hull and Cabin Joint
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| Author | Topic: 1980 REVENGE 22: Repairing Seam Between Hull and Cabin Joint |
| image 21 |
posted 07-27-2010 01:16 PM ET (US)  
[Seeks information on how to repair the seal between the joint of cabin superstructure and hull on a 1980 Boston Whaler REVENGE 22. Notes that on his boat this seam appears to be sealed with a gasket. Inquires if there is a better solution of repairing this seam than installing a new gasket.] |
| jimh |
posted 07-27-2010 01:23 PM ET (US)
[Asked for elaboration.] |
| Jeff |
posted 07-27-2010 01:42 PM ET (US)
It has always been my understanding the joint between the cabin, deck, and hull was caulked. There was no actual gasket. I would clean the area, tape it off, and re-caulk it from the outside, if you are having leaking problems. |
| image 21 |
posted 07-27-2010 03:46 PM ET (US)
Jeff [deduced the actual topic of the inquiry]. My [1980 Boston Whaler REVENGE 22] is leaking between the cabin and the hull where the two meet. [At that point there is] a rubber piece like a gasket that looks really bad. [I] was going to pull out the screws, pull [the rubber piece like a gasket] out, and run a nice bead of 4000 [unclear] around the seam to seal it. Right now [I am] re-doing some of the bright work in the cockpit area [until] winter; then [I am] pulling all the wood for the winter to re-do. Thanks Donnie |
| image 21 |
posted 07-27-2010 03:48 PM ET (US)
[I]s [there] a way to post pictures[?] [No--We do not host images. You are welcome to host your images on your own web space or at a free hosting site and link to them.--jimh] [I would] post [a picture] up so you can see [the rubber piece like gasket]. |
| andygere |
posted 07-27-2010 04:19 PM ET (US)
The cabin to hull joint on my Outrage 22 Cuddy uses a gasket. It has a quarter round exterior profile along the seam, but has flat flanges that seal the joint. It would be a big job to replace the gasket, if you could find the material. I have used a fine bead of exterior grade silicone caulk to seal the gasket along the upper and lower edge. |
| image 21 |
posted 07-28-2010 09:17 PM ET (US)
yeah that`s what i have. so where to find that or do i remove it and put a tight caulk bead |
| Buckda |
posted 08-09-2010 02:48 PM ET (US)
Question: is the quarter-round "seam cover" just decorative, or is it functional as a sealant? Could you actually run a bead of sealant underneath and replace this seam cover? |
| Jeff |
posted 08-09-2010 04:14 PM ET (US)
Dave and Andy, I have always thought that was an exterior element only. Does it really act as a gasket between the cap and hull? The best person to answer what and how these two parts are sealed together would be Archie Cassidy (acassidy), as he has removed this cap from his old 22' hull to convert it to a standard Outrage. |
| Buckda |
posted 08-09-2010 04:44 PM ET (US)
Jeff - I don't know if it does or not. I have two small leaks in the cuddy, and at each, there is a corresponding small "break" in this trim piece that appears to allow water to enter. I'm just trying to find and seal these leaks before it causes any problems (especially on Isle Royale). It is not a huge problem - water can be absorbed by laying a towel there during the trip, but it would be nice to stop it entirely so I don't have to store the cushions in my basement all the time when I'm not using the boat. Dave |
| jimh |
posted 08-09-2010 08:48 PM ET (US)
ASIDE to Dave: Are the cushions in your OUTRAGE 25 CUDDY upholstered with the classic brown plaid pattern fabric? |
| Buckda |
posted 08-10-2010 08:35 AM ET (US)
Jim - For now, yes, they are. I have new cushions already cut and I need to sew on some new upholstery. Given my experience this weekend hand stitching a zipper to my bimini top for the windshield, I think I'm going to go find a friend who has a sewing machine. I also need to select the fabric. |
| PeteB88 |
posted 08-14-2010 01:11 AM ET (US)
Buckalew - fabric, don't tell anyone: Herman Miller Outlet mind blowing especially cost. If raining tomorrow I might be able to meet you there. I know an Amish family with air driven sewing machines. |
| Newtauk1 |
posted 08-14-2010 03:30 PM ET (US)
I believe Whaler put out a jpeg file on repairing the seam. It is mentioned in the attached thread. |
| Newtauk1 |
posted 08-14-2010 03:34 PM ET (US)
dfmcintyre posted 01-20-2004 06:53 PM ET (US) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- David - I'll be emailing to you a .jpg of the repair sheet from Whaler that came out in the early 80's. Hope this will help. Don |
| Gino71 |
posted 11-30-2010 06:58 PM ET (US)
Don I am having the same problem. Anyway you could email me the repair sheet also? Please? Gino |
| dfmcintyre |
posted 11-30-2010 09:45 PM ET (US)
Gino - Check your email. Regards - Don |
| Gino71 |
posted 11-30-2010 09:54 PM ET (US)
Don Thanks for your help! |
| andygere |
posted 12-01-2010 11:25 AM ET (US)
Don, I'd love a copy of that repair sheet as well. Thanks, |
| edgarop |
posted 12-02-2010 12:33 AM ET (US)
Hey im trying to rejuvinate my boat as well and thats one of the tasks that im going to be covering in the next few weeks can i get that sheet as well Thanks Edgar |
| Buckda |
posted 12-29-2011 06:15 PM ET (US)
I'm continuing restoration work on my boat, and have removed the trim around the aft end of the cuddy and exposed the rearmost edges of this "gasket". It appears to be more than just a decorative piece covering the seam between the cabin and the outer hull. Based on my observations, I now believe that this piece is shaped more like a "P" with the top portion of the "P" being the exposed "quarter round" edge that is exposed and serves as a finish piece. Beneath the quarter round portion is about an inch and a half "dangle" that is the lower portion of the "P". I believe this is mechanically fastened to the hull via screws that clamp the cabin structure to the hull with this plastic trim piece in the gap. I also noted what I would term "extensive" use of caulk/sealant from the factory in this area. Right now, I'm evaluating if I want to probe further or leave well enough alone. Probing much further would include basically removing the cuddy and re-sealing the whole she-bang. I am actually considering this, if I could find a suitable replacement gasket as I don't think mine is in good enough condition to re-use. Alternately, I'm toying with the idea of using a straight plastic shim as a replacement, and then making a teak quarter round for a nice finish trim...but then I have a lucid moment and reconsider... |
| Buckda |
posted 12-29-2011 06:38 PM ET (US)
It is also possible that the "dangle" of the "P" could actually be crushed straight from being clamped between the cabin shell and the outer hull. In that case, it is possible that this "trim" piece could actually be a small rubrail that was available on the market when these boats were made. |
| L H G |
posted 12-29-2011 07:54 PM ET (US)
Dave - I have the Whaler complete exploded parts diagrams and parts listings for the 25 Outrage Cuddy. You are correct, the part you are talking about is an elongated "P" and is shown as a "gasket, 20' ". It goes all the way around the cuddy top shell. There is some kind of an inside "L" moulding also shown. They make no mention of caulking. If you want this set of drawings let me know and I can mail them off to you. |
| Buckda |
posted 12-30-2011 10:21 PM ET (US)
Hi Larry - I have the exploded parts diagram. Knowing what Whaler called it isn't helping me locate the item online nearly 30 years later... I've learned a bit more about this piece this evening - it's actually shaped like a "q" with the upturned drop section wrapping back around the edge of the cuddy cabin top. Whaler attached it to the hull using rivets, located every four inches or so around the cuddy. That is a lot of holes...I'm betting that none of them were sealed with any kind of sealant...which makes me want to remove the cuddy and re-work it even more. |
| Buckda |
posted 12-30-2011 10:49 PM ET (US)
Here is what I'm talking about. The first photo is taken from the aft edge of the cuddy where the trim extends out onto the gunwale. Note that this photo was taken after I removed a good bit of silicone caulking with a razor... The second photo is inside the cuddy, behind the finish trim that shows the upturn of the "q" from the inside, and the orientation of the rivets. |
| K Albus |
posted 12-30-2011 11:28 PM ET (US)
Dave - do a search on McMaster.com for 12335A61. It's not an exact match for what you're looking at, but it's similar. Maybe you can get McMaster to tell you who the manufacturer is, so you can contact the manufacturer about any similar products they have to offer. Another somewhat similar product at McMaster.com is 12335A65. |
| Buckda |
posted 01-01-2012 11:00 AM ET (US)
Thanks Kevin, that's pretty close. We're zeroing in on it. I'll be calling Sue at Twin Cities tomorrow to see what she knows about this part. |
| andygere |
posted 01-03-2012 12:55 PM ET (US)
Dave, Good information on the cuddy gasket, tells me what I more or less knew all along, which is that the shell must be removed to replace the gasket. I've had good luck keeping water out of my cuddy by sealing the top and bottom edges of the gasket with a good quality silicone caulk. Removing the cuddy would be a big job, and unless the gasket was really torn up, I'd avoid it. An additional bead of sealant could be applied inside the cuddy, hidden under the plastic trim that you partially removed. |
| Tonio |
posted 02-18-2013 11:33 AM ET (US)
Hi all, I also experience small leaks on my 1980 Revenge 22. I still need a bit more research, but am pretty sure it mainly comes from this cabin joint. Giving all different comments and answers, I believe that NOT removing the cabin would be more realistic for me. I am planning to inject, very likely with a syringe, the best possible silicon sealant, on both side of our "P" joint. What product did you use or experience there ? What would be your best choice ? Would be interesting to get a sealant which stays pretty soft and flexible once dry. Merci ! |
| Stukongluz |
posted 05-04-2014 12:12 PM ET (US)
[Solicited email] |
| cwkaiser |
posted 09-17-2015 01:53 PM ET (US)
[Revived this thread and then completely changed the topic. The new topic is deleted.] |
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