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Author Topic:   How do I fill screw holes in teak?

Creeker posted 10-13-2010 07:31 PM ET (US)
I just put on a t-top on my Classic Outrage 18 and took off the bimini. Atfer I remove the mounting hardware I will be left with a number of screw holes in the teak trim. What is the best way to repair the holes? I did a search on this site and came up empty.
Thanks in advance,

contender posted 10-13-2010 07:42 PM ET (US)
teak trim, if it not to thin/small you drill it out (to a size plug of your need) and you can purchase teak plugs, or a teak rod (cut them to your length needed) just glue them in. Then you get to re-finish (sand them down) to match the trim..
ConB posted 10-13-2010 07:54 PM ET (US)
You could also use West System epoxy. Maybe thickened a little with dark colored microballoons.
The plastic syringes work well for getting the epoxy into the hole.
Sand and refinish.
Con
modenacart posted 10-13-2010 09:11 PM ET (US)
I would use epoxy. If you can use the dust from teak wood, that might color the epoxy closer to the wood color.
BobL posted 10-13-2010 10:01 PM ET (US)
The link below is a discussion about filling holes in mahogany but the techniques are the same to repair teak with wooden plugs (bungs).
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/017626.html
PeteB88 posted 10-13-2010 11:09 PM ET (US)
If it were mine I'd use marine epoxy with wooden plugs - same wood obviously - to do it right and seal the board completely. You can buy plug cutters that work great (used one my neighbor had to make about 50 Whaler mahogany plugs last year) or maybe find dowels and cut plugs from dowels. I would NOT use a different species - if teak use teak, mahogany, mahogany.
L H G posted 10-14-2010 01:21 AM ET (US)
From my perspective, the only professional way to get rid of screw holes in teak which exposed to view, is to drill them out 3/8" and glue in teak plugs of the same diameter. Tite-Bond glue is all you need. If the damage is larger, try 1/2" plugs. Whaler teak has plugs in many places covering installation screws, so all you are doing is exactly what Whaler did in the original manufacturing of the boat. Sanded, oil or varnished, you won't even notice them.
Mahogany components can be repaired to original condition the same way.
burning_hXc_soul posted 10-14-2010 07:41 AM ET (US)
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/017626.html
jimh posted 10-14-2010 07:53 AM ET (US)
Follow L H G's advice.
Creeker posted 10-14-2010 08:07 AM ET (US)
Thanks to all for your informative and prompt responses.
davej14 posted 10-14-2010 10:07 AM ET (US)
There are several categories of titebond glue. Be sure to use the one that is waterproof.http://www.titebond.com
http://www.titebond.com/IntroPageTB.ASP?UserType=1& ProdSel=ProductIntroTB.asp
Tom W Clark posted 10-14-2010 12:35 PM ET (US)
I agree with the advice to drill and plug the holes. Because the teak gunwale boards were assembled with 3/8" bunged screw holes, the 3/8" size teak bungs (plugs) should be used. It will look like they have always been there.
Be sure to select bungs with the same color/grain pattern as your gunwale boards and align the grain of the bungs to the grain of the gunwale board.
You can glue the bungs in with whatever waterproof glue you want. You can use epoxy, polyurethane, resorcinol or plastic resin glue. You can even use spar varnish to glue the bungs in.
Titebond is a brand of glue. There is no reason on earth you must use that brand; there are dozens of other brands of waterproof glue, though there is nothing wrong with Titebond. I use Titebond brand glues myself, among others.
andygere posted 10-14-2010 04:44 PM ET (US)
Adding to what Tom, Larry and others have said, drill and plug the holes. Forget about any epoxy and sawdust method! Use a forstner bit, not a twist drill, to get a clean hole that will minimize the appearance of the plug. I've used varnish to glue mine in. It does not leave a glue line, and the plug can be removed and replaced if needed. This is especially important if the plug is going over the top of a countersunk screw that may one day need to be removed.
Dab some varnish on the sidewalls of the plug, and gently tap it in using a small hammer and a block of soft wood, leaving 1/16" or so of the plug proud. Leave it alone for a day, then trim the top flush using a sharp wood chisel, but with the blade upside down. Gently shave the top of the plug until it's flush. Trust me, this works and looks great.
modenacart posted 10-14-2010 09:15 PM ET (US)
So going from a small screw hole to a 1/4" hole is better? I am not sure about this, you can get a very good color match using teak dust and epoxy. The choice in how you want to fix it is your, but the dust and epoxy method is not stupid.
Tom W Clark posted 10-14-2010 09:44 PM ET (US)
The screw holes left by the #10 fasteners of the Bimini hardware already have a 1/4" footprint on the gunwales.
Yes, a cleanly cut 3/8" hole properly bunged will be FAR less visible than the ragged hole of a #10 fastener crammed full of epoxy and saw dust.
andygere posted 10-14-2010 10:46 PM ET (US)
As soon as you wet out the teak dust with epoxy it becomes a different color. Trust me, the result using a teak plug will be much better. it's also faster, easier and less expensive.
Blackduck posted 10-15-2010 10:16 AM ET (US)
I do not understand why people recommend mixing teak dust with glue to fill holes. The end result are holes that stand out like a sore thumb. They are almost black!
PeteB88 posted 10-15-2010 10:56 AM ET (US)
Great advice all through the thread. You'll figure it out.
I just redid an old RPS teak seat back for a friend. Bad shape. I was able to dig the old teak plugs out or some I had to drill out w/ proper size bit. Interesting most of the screws were silicon bronze but about a dozen were drywall screws so someone must have done repairs before.
Plotman posted 10-15-2010 11:31 AM ET (US)
If you are going to this trouble - DO NOT use pieces of dowel to fill the holes. Use plugs. Either but them commercially, or buy a plug cutter http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=11486 .
Dowel will leave you with end grain showing, which will stick out like a sore thumb. Face-grain plus will blend in.
PeteB88 posted 10-15-2010 01:07 PM ET (US)
Plot - great point plus end grain can wick moisture if not sealed w/ marine epoxy or finish. Could be an issue w/ oiled finish.
modenacart posted 10-15-2010 05:07 PM ET (US)
If you use teak plugs, I would buy a plug cutting bit and buy some teak wood, that way you can see the wood for a color match. The teak plugs I bought when I bought a bag of plugs were no where near the color of my teak. None of the plugs were even a close match.

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Author	Topic: How do I fill screw holes in teak?
Creeker	posted 10-13-2010 07:31 PM ET (US) I just put on a t-top on my Classic Outrage 18 and took off the bimini. Atfer I remove the mounting hardware I will be left with a number of screw holes in the teak trim. What is the best way to repair the holes? I did a search on this site and came up empty. Thanks in advance,
contender	posted 10-13-2010 07:42 PM ET (US) teak trim, if it not to thin/small you drill it out (to a size plug of your need) and you can purchase teak plugs, or a teak rod (cut them to your length needed) just glue them in. Then you get to re-finish (sand them down) to match the trim..
ConB	posted 10-13-2010 07:54 PM ET (US) You could also use West System epoxy. Maybe thickened a little with dark colored microballoons. The plastic syringes work well for getting the epoxy into the hole. Sand and refinish. Con
modenacart	posted 10-13-2010 09:11 PM ET (US) I would use epoxy. If you can use the dust from teak wood, that might color the epoxy closer to the wood color.
BobL	posted 10-13-2010 10:01 PM ET (US) The link below is a discussion about filling holes in mahogany but the techniques are the same to repair teak with wooden plugs (bungs). http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/017626.html
PeteB88	posted 10-13-2010 11:09 PM ET (US) If it were mine I'd use marine epoxy with wooden plugs - same wood obviously - to do it right and seal the board completely. You can buy plug cutters that work great (used one my neighbor had to make about 50 Whaler mahogany plugs last year) or maybe find dowels and cut plugs from dowels. I would NOT use a different species - if teak use teak, mahogany, mahogany.
L H G	posted 10-14-2010 01:21 AM ET (US) From my perspective, the only professional way to get rid of screw holes in teak which exposed to view, is to drill them out 3/8" and glue in teak plugs of the same diameter. Tite-Bond glue is all you need. If the damage is larger, try 1/2" plugs. Whaler teak has plugs in many places covering installation screws, so all you are doing is exactly what Whaler did in the original manufacturing of the boat. Sanded, oil or varnished, you won't even notice them. Mahogany components can be repaired to original condition the same way.
burning_hXc_soul	posted 10-14-2010 07:41 AM ET (US) http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/017626.html
jimh	posted 10-14-2010 07:53 AM ET (US) Follow L H G's advice.
Creeker	posted 10-14-2010 08:07 AM ET (US) Thanks to all for your informative and prompt responses.
davej14	posted 10-14-2010 10:07 AM ET (US) There are several categories of titebond glue. Be sure to use the one that is waterproof.http://www.titebond.com http://www.titebond.com/IntroPageTB.ASP?UserType=1& ProdSel=ProductIntroTB.asp
Tom W Clark	posted 10-14-2010 12:35 PM ET (US) I agree with the advice to drill and plug the holes. Because the teak gunwale boards were assembled with 3/8" bunged screw holes, the 3/8" size teak bungs (plugs) should be used. It will look like they have always been there. Be sure to select bungs with the same color/grain pattern as your gunwale boards and align the grain of the bungs to the grain of the gunwale board. You can glue the bungs in with whatever waterproof glue you want. You can use epoxy, polyurethane, resorcinol or plastic resin glue. You can even use spar varnish to glue the bungs in. Titebond is a brand of glue. There is no reason on earth you must use that brand; there are dozens of other brands of waterproof glue, though there is nothing wrong with Titebond. I use Titebond brand glues myself, among others.
andygere	posted 10-14-2010 04:44 PM ET (US) Adding to what Tom, Larry and others have said, drill and plug the holes. Forget about any epoxy and sawdust method! Use a forstner bit, not a twist drill, to get a clean hole that will minimize the appearance of the plug. I've used varnish to glue mine in. It does not leave a glue line, and the plug can be removed and replaced if needed. This is especially important if the plug is going over the top of a countersunk screw that may one day need to be removed. Dab some varnish on the sidewalls of the plug, and gently tap it in using a small hammer and a block of soft wood, leaving 1/16" or so of the plug proud. Leave it alone for a day, then trim the top flush using a sharp wood chisel, but with the blade upside down. Gently shave the top of the plug until it's flush. Trust me, this works and looks great.
modenacart	posted 10-14-2010 09:15 PM ET (US) So going from a small screw hole to a 1/4" hole is better? I am not sure about this, you can get a very good color match using teak dust and epoxy. The choice in how you want to fix it is your, but the dust and epoxy method is not stupid.
Tom W Clark	posted 10-14-2010 09:44 PM ET (US) The screw holes left by the #10 fasteners of the Bimini hardware already have a 1/4" footprint on the gunwales. Yes, a cleanly cut 3/8" hole properly bunged will be FAR less visible than the ragged hole of a #10 fastener crammed full of epoxy and saw dust.
andygere	posted 10-14-2010 10:46 PM ET (US) As soon as you wet out the teak dust with epoxy it becomes a different color. Trust me, the result using a teak plug will be much better. it's also faster, easier and less expensive.
Blackduck	posted 10-15-2010 10:16 AM ET (US) I do not understand why people recommend mixing teak dust with glue to fill holes. The end result are holes that stand out like a sore thumb. They are almost black!
PeteB88	posted 10-15-2010 10:56 AM ET (US) Great advice all through the thread. You'll figure it out. I just redid an old RPS teak seat back for a friend. Bad shape. I was able to dig the old teak plugs out or some I had to drill out w/ proper size bit. Interesting most of the screws were silicon bronze but about a dozen were drywall screws so someone must have done repairs before.
Plotman	posted 10-15-2010 11:31 AM ET (US) If you are going to this trouble - DO NOT use pieces of dowel to fill the holes. Use plugs. Either but them commercially, or buy a plug cutter http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=11486 . Dowel will leave you with end grain showing, which will stick out like a sore thumb. Face-grain plus will blend in.
PeteB88	posted 10-15-2010 01:07 PM ET (US) Plot - great point plus end grain can wick moisture if not sealed w/ marine epoxy or finish. Could be an issue w/ oiled finish.
modenacart	posted 10-15-2010 05:07 PM ET (US) If you use teak plugs, I would buy a plug cutting bit and buy some teak wood, that way you can see the wood for a color match. The teak plugs I bought when I bought a bag of plugs were no where near the color of my teak. None of the plugs were even a close match.