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Author Topic:   Bottom Paint Removal

lasersailor posted 10-28-2010 05:27 AM ET (US)
[The author says he is] trying to come up with a ballpark figure for what it would cost to have the bottom of my old TASHMOO professionally stripped of the somewhat spotty bottom paint, and [he is also] trying to decide whether pulling the rails, console, and motor in order to flip it and get at the bottom myself would be worth the effort. [Removal of the bottom paint will be] the first step in my project to get the boat ready for camp cruising in the summer around Whidbey Island. As it will probably be the most time intensive, I figured having it done professionally would leave me with the rest of the winter to do the other things that need doing: new rail mounts, repairing deck gelcoat and new cushions, as well as maybe a kayak rack and kayak to go in it. Doing it myself would save money for things like a full canvas set. I will also be e-mailing several of the local marinas to see what they have to say, but it is always nice to hear from people who are not trying to sell me something first.
[The author] didn't mention that I believe my plan will be to put on a barrier coat in place of the old bottom paint, as, for now at least, [the boat] will be kept on the trailer. In the places the paint has worn off there is some gel [coat] crazing, so don't think leaving bare [the hull surface below the water line] will be the best option, though I guess I should wait until the paint is off to make that call.
contender posted 10-28-2010 09:45 AM ET (US)
Sailor: [First] fix the boat and fix it right. Do it once and do it right for no problems. You have to weigh the cost of doing something versus your time, ability, and if you have the tools for the job. To do what you want to do the correct way would be to strip parts, engine, the boat, and flip it. Stripping a boat is a messy process, So now you also have a mess to clean up. Personally I would get a price for the strip job and be done with it. Just strip parts, engine, and boat, and tow the boat to them. They will be responsible and have the equipment to take [the boat] off the trailer, flip it and go to work. They will be done in two days--maybe one if you schedule it. Doing this would take you three to four or more days plus the flip and the extra manpower and cradle needed to do this, depending on how bad the paint and bottom is. The boat yard has a soda spray like sandblasting takes the paint off and does a nice job. You can always save more money for the canvas at an later date, or have sections made as you need them. Once done you can move your boat to a location and begin your refit and redo. Good luck
tedious posted 10-28-2010 12:46 PM ET (US)
The job does not require a great deal of skill, but it is a bit heavy and a lot messy. To me the key factors are whether you have a means of removing the motor, of flipping the boat, and a place outdoors to do the paint removal. You're going to be generating a lot of fine dust, and it will get everywhere - a nice windy day outdoors would be the best bet.
If you have all that, then I'd say go for it. The paint removal and surface prep should take less than a day. But by all means get a price on it too - you may be pleasantly surprised.
Tim
Tohsgib posted 10-28-2010 01:27 PM ET (US)
My bud had his 21 Mako done in his yard. He put the boat on blocks, and [a vendor] came in, walnut blasted it over a tarp, carried away all the paint and walnut shell mess, and left him with a nice bottom for barrier and paint. It is well worth the [$500]. [B]efore I stripped a boat and flipped it and did it myself. If the boat needs to be stripped for other reasons--repower or new console--then that should be a consideration. If it is strictly just for the bottom, have it done.
jimh posted 10-28-2010 10:45 PM ET (US)
The easiest way to remove bottom paint is with your checkbook.
lasersailor posted 10-28-2010 11:46 PM ET (US)
Thanks for the advice, it sounds like the best way to go about it will be as suggested, pull the rails and motor and all off, take it to the boatyard ready soda blast, and then take a look after the paint is gone to see if it needs the barrier coat or not. The boat could use some new base plates for the rails anyhow, as the old ones are all pitted and probably the ugliest things on the boat, and it will also be a good excuse to refinish the rps back.
Tohsgib posted 10-29-2010 11:19 AM ET (US)
Easiest would be as I suggested and let them come to you with boat as-is.
face posted 10-29-2010 01:35 PM ET (US)
The paint can be either blasted off, sanded off (very labor intensive) or chemically stripped. You are best off having a professional blast it. Question is soda blast (baking soda), walnut shell, or sand. Sand or "black magic", which is glass, are the most abrasive and are to be avoided unless you have a many very hard coats of bottom paint. Check with the company you choose to see what product they use. Go with soda or walnut shell to minimize damage to the gelcoat.
I had my Bertram 28 done for $500 in just a few hours. You can then apply multiple coats of epoxy barrier coat or have the boat gelcoated by a professional. I would recommend applying epoxy barrier coat. Purchase two colors of barrier. Follow the directions, apply the first coat, apply the second coat within the allotted time by the manufacturer so it chemically bonds to the first coat, and so on to 4 coats total.
Do it right the first and only time!
Joe
jimh posted 10-29-2010 04:05 PM ET (US)
May I make the inference that the reason for the recommendation to use two colors of epoxy barrier paint and to apply them in alternating layers is to permit the coverage of the layer being applied to be assessed by the contrast with the layer under it?
modenacart posted 10-29-2010 05:43 PM ET (US)
If you have the bottom blasted, there is going to be pitting and potting. You will need to prime, then board sand if you want it to be flat again. Then coat with whatever bottom covering you want. If you gel coat, you will need to board sand it again to get it flat. Use a guide coat when board sanding. I used the spray kind in the past and it can be a pain removing it. I just started to use the dry type. It is easy to remove and should be just as good showing imperfections, but I am not sure yet.
face posted 10-31-2010 09:20 AM ET (US)
Jim,
I meant to explain that but yes you are right with your inference. It is much easier to apply your multiple coats evenly if you alternate colors. I've used grey and white.
And modenacart, sometimes yes sometimes no. I agree that usually there will be some filling and fairing needed after blasting, not just priming. With walnut or soda blasting this is minimized as the media isn't as abrasive as sand blasting. It also depends if there are osmotic blisters or not. If there are blisters they need to be ground out, given a few months to dry, then filled and faired.
Joe

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Author	Topic: Bottom Paint Removal
lasersailor	posted 10-28-2010 05:27 AM ET (US) [The author says he is] trying to come up with a ballpark figure for what it would cost to have the bottom of my old TASHMOO professionally stripped of the somewhat spotty bottom paint, and [he is also] trying to decide whether pulling the rails, console, and motor in order to flip it and get at the bottom myself would be worth the effort. [Removal of the bottom paint will be] the first step in my project to get the boat ready for camp cruising in the summer around Whidbey Island. As it will probably be the most time intensive, I figured having it done professionally would leave me with the rest of the winter to do the other things that need doing: new rail mounts, repairing deck gelcoat and new cushions, as well as maybe a kayak rack and kayak to go in it. Doing it myself would save money for things like a full canvas set. I will also be e-mailing several of the local marinas to see what they have to say, but it is always nice to hear from people who are not trying to sell me something first. [The author] didn't mention that I believe my plan will be to put on a barrier coat in place of the old bottom paint, as, for now at least, [the boat] will be kept on the trailer. In the places the paint has worn off there is some gel [coat] crazing, so don't think leaving bare [the hull surface below the water line] will be the best option, though I guess I should wait until the paint is off to make that call.
contender	posted 10-28-2010 09:45 AM ET (US) Sailor: [First] fix the boat and fix it right. Do it once and do it right for no problems. You have to weigh the cost of doing something versus your time, ability, and if you have the tools for the job. To do what you want to do the correct way would be to strip parts, engine, the boat, and flip it. Stripping a boat is a messy process, So now you also have a mess to clean up. Personally I would get a price for the strip job and be done with it. Just strip parts, engine, and boat, and tow the boat to them. They will be responsible and have the equipment to take [the boat] off the trailer, flip it and go to work. They will be done in two days--maybe one if you schedule it. Doing this would take you three to four or more days plus the flip and the extra manpower and cradle needed to do this, depending on how bad the paint and bottom is. The boat yard has a soda spray like sandblasting takes the paint off and does a nice job. You can always save more money for the canvas at an later date, or have sections made as you need them. Once done you can move your boat to a location and begin your refit and redo. Good luck
tedious	posted 10-28-2010 12:46 PM ET (US) The job does not require a great deal of skill, but it is a bit heavy and a lot messy. To me the key factors are whether you have a means of removing the motor, of flipping the boat, and a place outdoors to do the paint removal. You're going to be generating a lot of fine dust, and it will get everywhere - a nice windy day outdoors would be the best bet. If you have all that, then I'd say go for it. The paint removal and surface prep should take less than a day. But by all means get a price on it too - you may be pleasantly surprised. Tim
Tohsgib	posted 10-28-2010 01:27 PM ET (US) My bud had his 21 Mako done in his yard. He put the boat on blocks, and [a vendor] came in, walnut blasted it over a tarp, carried away all the paint and walnut shell mess, and left him with a nice bottom for barrier and paint. It is well worth the [$500]. [B]efore I stripped a boat and flipped it and did it myself. If the boat needs to be stripped for other reasons--repower or new console--then that should be a consideration. If it is strictly just for the bottom, have it done.
jimh	posted 10-28-2010 10:45 PM ET (US) The easiest way to remove bottom paint is with your checkbook.
lasersailor	posted 10-28-2010 11:46 PM ET (US) Thanks for the advice, it sounds like the best way to go about it will be as suggested, pull the rails and motor and all off, take it to the boatyard ready soda blast, and then take a look after the paint is gone to see if it needs the barrier coat or not. The boat could use some new base plates for the rails anyhow, as the old ones are all pitted and probably the ugliest things on the boat, and it will also be a good excuse to refinish the rps back.
Tohsgib	posted 10-29-2010 11:19 AM ET (US) Easiest would be as I suggested and let them come to you with boat as-is.
face	posted 10-29-2010 01:35 PM ET (US) The paint can be either blasted off, sanded off (very labor intensive) or chemically stripped. You are best off having a professional blast it. Question is soda blast (baking soda), walnut shell, or sand. Sand or "black magic", which is glass, are the most abrasive and are to be avoided unless you have a many very hard coats of bottom paint. Check with the company you choose to see what product they use. Go with soda or walnut shell to minimize damage to the gelcoat. I had my Bertram 28 done for $500 in just a few hours. You can then apply multiple coats of epoxy barrier coat or have the boat gelcoated by a professional. I would recommend applying epoxy barrier coat. Purchase two colors of barrier. Follow the directions, apply the first coat, apply the second coat within the allotted time by the manufacturer so it chemically bonds to the first coat, and so on to 4 coats total. Do it right the first and only time! Joe
jimh	posted 10-29-2010 04:05 PM ET (US) May I make the inference that the reason for the recommendation to use two colors of epoxy barrier paint and to apply them in alternating layers is to permit the coverage of the layer being applied to be assessed by the contrast with the layer under it?
modenacart	posted 10-29-2010 05:43 PM ET (US) If you have the bottom blasted, there is going to be pitting and potting. You will need to prime, then board sand if you want it to be flat again. Then coat with whatever bottom covering you want. If you gel coat, you will need to board sand it again to get it flat. Use a guide coat when board sanding. I used the spray kind in the past and it can be a pain removing it. I just started to use the dry type. It is easy to remove and should be just as good showing imperfections, but I am not sure yet.
face	posted 10-31-2010 09:20 AM ET (US) Jim, I meant to explain that but yes you are right with your inference. It is much easier to apply your multiple coats evenly if you alternate colors. I've used grey and white. And modenacart, sometimes yes sometimes no. I agree that usually there will be some filling and fairing needed after blasting, not just priming. With walnut or soda blasting this is minimized as the media isn't as abrasive as sand blasting. It also depends if there are osmotic blisters or not. If there are blisters they need to be ground out, given a few months to dry, then filled and faired. Joe